bk78
Well-Known Member
pics
Does anyone use 1000w DE (Non ducted) lamps with 8 foot ceilings? I'm curious about dimming ballasts.
- Thread starter MasterSweets
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bk78
Well-Known Member
kettle
bk78
Well-Known Member
Ahhh, good to see you following along for the ride buddy.
bk78
Well-Known Member
No one has posted anything nasty in there haha
bk78
Well-Known Member
Well hey at least I’m not ashamed to post my garden pictures ayyyy
Moldy
Well-Known Member
I run an open hood DE 1000 watt bulb but I only have about 7' ceilings. It's almost too much for a taller grow on 1K so I do turn down that 1K bulb to lower wattages due to heat and/or intensity. The manufacturer of the bulb says its not good to turn down the wattages as it can throw off the spectrum and/or blow up the bulb but I've been doing it for 5-6 years. I also run a DE CMH 600 in the same hood but wouldn't dare go over 600W ballast setting. So far I haven't blown the 1K bulb, probably time to get a new one. I may look at 750 or 875 bulb.
It does throw out a lot of heat with an open hood, I'd spend the extra cash and get the closed hood if I could do it over. I can't run in the summer months with that beast, not enough BTU's with my little A/C unit so I wait till this time of year to flower. I use LED's in summer months.
Star Dog
Well-Known Member
Heat is my problem with the de my roof is 7ft and I've got people above, 8" fans running full can't happen, a parabolic only put a fraction of the heat down instead it throws the heat out around the bulb, atm I'd guess my 660w is 12/14" from the canopy (yes your welcome to photos) I think it's a 400w but possibly a 250 mh either way it's astounding that I can touch the end of the bulb without getting burnt (again photos welcome)
The de can basically only be used in the dead of winter and with the extra height required makes it a pointless exercise.
A maxibright pro select for example will let you run 400w bulbs, 600w bulbs and 1000w bulbs + 10%
The de can basically only be used in the dead of winter and with the extra height required makes it a pointless exercise.
A maxibright pro select for example will let you run 400w bulbs, 600w bulbs and 1000w bulbs + 10%
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
ISHIO 1000w SE HPS Bulb has the same spectrum as the Hortilux HPS 1000w, and is 2100umol like a DE Gavita ect. It runs a DE filament in a SE design, and covers a 5 x 5 area. The Gavita hood has a coverage of 3.5 x 6 depending on the Hood choice.
May be something to think about. Ive not used this bulb as I just found out about it, but I am going to try one. Its said you can get it within 24 inches, as where the DE bulbs have to be, or at least in most cases no closer than 36in, and 40 is probably better. The DE bulbs have HUGE Infrared, and get seemingly 20% hotter than a SE design. In many cases one can get more light to the plant with a SE design because you can get the light closer.
We also use the Gavita 1700e for Seedlings-Veg, but havent used in flowering yet, but it seems to ddo as good of a job as the 1000w Hortilux HOS. Thats what weve used for over 20 years for both starting-flowering.
Theres also a good video on this forum someplace that is a highly crediible test of different light spectrums, and the consensus was all that matters is the light is its strongest in the area the plant responds to most.
The 2100k plants grew better than those grown at 3000k, or 4000k.
The more Blue did shorten internodal space some. All plants do need some Blue, but only a certain amount to function normally.
Thats most of the specifics I remember, but a full spectrum isnt necessary, or necessarily desirable.
So Im not sold on a full spectrum light, though they do work. I used Halide for decades before they came out with a HPS that had some Blue in it. The HPS with Blue kills the Halide.
May be something to think about. Ive not used this bulb as I just found out about it, but I am going to try one. Its said you can get it within 24 inches, as where the DE bulbs have to be, or at least in most cases no closer than 36in, and 40 is probably better. The DE bulbs have HUGE Infrared, and get seemingly 20% hotter than a SE design. In many cases one can get more light to the plant with a SE design because you can get the light closer.
We also use the Gavita 1700e for Seedlings-Veg, but havent used in flowering yet, but it seems to ddo as good of a job as the 1000w Hortilux HOS. Thats what weve used for over 20 years for both starting-flowering.
Theres also a good video on this forum someplace that is a highly crediible test of different light spectrums, and the consensus was all that matters is the light is its strongest in the area the plant responds to most.
The 2100k plants grew better than those grown at 3000k, or 4000k.
The more Blue did shorten internodal space some. All plants do need some Blue, but only a certain amount to function normally.
Thats most of the specifics I remember, but a full spectrum isnt necessary, or necessarily desirable.
So Im not sold on a full spectrum light, though they do work. I used Halide for decades before they came out with a HPS that had some Blue in it. The HPS with Blue kills the Halide.
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Check these out.
But last time I asked, they only sell them by lots of 40, for $32,000.
Surely they will sell them individually, or someone will come up with something just as good.
2650umol anyone???? They also sell different color temperatures. And are different umol, and wattage.
More light, less heat, better control
Philips GreenPower LED toplighting compact allows you to easily switch to LED lighting, replacing your existing HPS set-up, or building a new installation. The high light output of up to 2650 μmol/s or high efficacy of up to 3.6 μmol/J helps you effectively optimize crop growth, enhance crop quality and cut operational costs.
But last time I asked, they only sell them by lots of 40, for $32,000.
Surely they will sell them individually, or someone will come up with something just as good.
2650umol anyone???? They also sell different color temperatures. And are different umol, and wattage.
More light, less heat, better control
Philips GreenPower LED toplighting compact allows you to easily switch to LED lighting, replacing your existing HPS set-up, or building a new installation. The high light output of up to 2650 μmol/s or high efficacy of up to 3.6 μmol/J helps you effectively optimize crop growth, enhance crop quality and cut operational costs.
kratos015
Well-Known Member
I have a dimmable DE from 750-1100 watts, I've used it in an 8ft tall shed and I've even used it in a 6.5ft grow tent. You just need to dim it accordingly.
Nice thing about DE fixtures is they are mounted on the roof instead of on hangers, as a result all of the heat from the DE bulb effectively stays at the top 1ft of your grow room/tent.
I found very quickly that the result of this is that cooling/ventilation is significantly easier than with SE bulbs due to the heat being trapped in 1ft of vertical space as opposed to the 3-4ft with a SE fixture on hangers.
Just be mindful of the 3-4 ft from the canopy rule of thumb, not so much for heat purposes but light intensity. Simple enough with proper training. And you can always dim the light as needed.
farmingfisherman
Well-Known Member
Jesus Christ.
farmingfisherman
Well-Known Member
So freaking strong
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I tried to find that light but the closest I found was this one:Check these out.
But last time I asked, they only sell them by lots of 40, for $32,000.
Surely they will sell them individually, or someone will come up with something just as good.
2650umol anyone???? They also sell different color temperatures. And are different umol, and wattage.
More light, less heat, better control
Philips GreenPower LED toplighting compact allows you to easily switch to LED lighting, replacing your existing HPS set-up, or building a new installation. The high light output of up to 2650 μmol/s or high efficacy of up to 3.6 μmol/J helps you effectively optimize crop growth, enhance crop quality and cut operational costs.
halfbreed421
Well-Known Member
my 600w ballast will turn on at full power and then dim once the bulb its fully started up so I don't think running a lower wattage bulb in a higher ballast is a good idea
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I have run 600 watt bulbs on 1000 watt ballasts set at 60%, done it a lot.
The pulse voltage to strike an arc is the same for all HPS lamps.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Nearly 20 years ago I ran one of those big parabolic "umbrella" reflectors with a 1500 watt MH (stadium lighting). Thing was a fucking beast.
Stoned Whale
Active Member
I currently run 3x 1000w SE HPS, 1x 1000w 400V DE. 7ft ceilings. About 1.5m2 each
I use parabolic reflectors though. They really do allow you to get the bulbs so much closer to the plants with no heat issues. But then the parabolic shades are huge themselves, so you lose headspace that way.
Got them all on superlumen mode on the ballasts so like 1060-1100w in flowering with winter intake right now. Plants loving it.
The two lights furthest from intake do get problematic in the summer. I plan to change them to LED as that end of the room runs about 3C hotter than the other end. Which sounds perfect for LED.
But aye, it’s doable easy, just SCROG and manage height!
I use parabolic reflectors though. They really do allow you to get the bulbs so much closer to the plants with no heat issues. But then the parabolic shades are huge themselves, so you lose headspace that way.
Got them all on superlumen mode on the ballasts so like 1060-1100w in flowering with winter intake right now. Plants loving it.
The two lights furthest from intake do get problematic in the summer. I plan to change them to LED as that end of the room runs about 3C hotter than the other end. Which sounds perfect for LED.
But aye, it’s doable easy, just SCROG and manage height!