How many do you have and how much are you looking to sell them for? Ebay should workAnyone looking for some? I got bunch leftover. I can put em on eBay if people interested.
Yes I'm keen for a few using eBay!Anyone looking for some? I got bunch leftover. I can put em on eBay if people interested.
I think I'm too new/too few posts to send a DM. I'd be interested as well depending on how many you have.Anyone looking for some? I got bunch leftover. I can put em on eBay if people interested.
what area footprint are you trying to cover with these? how tall is your grow space?Hey guys can I get some help please ? I am having trouble figuring out how’ to power these strips from this thread. If anyone could please please help me figure out how to power these led module strips I’d appreciate it so much . They are the F series Gen 3 and I attached the picture of the strips. Here is the link https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b8t521560ww/samsung-electronics?q=SI-B8T521560WW. Thank you
@Yesyes3000what area footprint are you trying to cover with these? how tall is your grow space?
those can take @ 60W each (48v x 1.2A) but would require big heatsinks and you probably want fans blowing on them.
they are most efficient if you run them softer. you get more light out of each watt. they will also run cooler and last longer. depending how soft you run them you might not need heatsinks. I would probably shoot for 600-700ma. You could get a Constant current 700ma driver and wire in series (prob easier for your first build), or get a 48v constant voltage driver and wire in parallel (a little more work but you can squeeze more power this way, and its lower voltage).
let us know what size area you want to cover and we can help pick a driver easier.
Instead of a CC driver wired in series I would get a CV driver and wire it in parallel, it is a safer voltage to work with.Would these run the f-series strips?
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I don't know my ass from my elbow, I'm looking at a build on another site that doesn't use the same strips. Just want to make sure I get the right driver... haha. Going to build a few 4x4 light fixtures. If this isn't the right driver, could someone link me to the right 320w drivers?
So 48A for the double row strips and 24A for the single row strips? Does it matter how many single row strips I put? Thanks NukaInstead of a CC driver wired in series I would get a CV driver and wire it in parallel, it is a safer voltage to work with.
This will work for the F series double row 2’ strips and all 4’ strips.
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If you run 1’ strips or single row 2’ strips you want the HLG-320H-24A.
Yes, the 24A/48A just signifies the DC output voltage of the driver. They also have 24B/48B models but they require an external potentiometer to dim.So 48A for the double row strips and 24A for the single row strips? Does it matter how many single row strips I put? Thanks Nuka
CMH’s are great lights and 2 of them pretty much perfectly cover your 3’x5.5’ space. Any specific reason you want to change up the lighting?I have been contemplating replacing my 2 315W CMH's with an LED strip build. I have been looking at the builds here:
I was thinking 4' F series strips as a compromise on price. I was also planning on using these as heatsinks:DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener
DIY LED strip builds have become very popular recently. The mid-power section of our forum is full of threads created by DIYers looking to build their own custom lights, and new builds and ideas are surfacing every day. If you don’t live somewhere where you have easy access to premade lights...ledgardener.com
I have a grow room I built with 8' ceilings that is 5'8" wide by 6'. I'm only using about 3'X5'6" to have room to move around in the room.EX-1010-D – 1″ x 1″ Smooth Tri-Slot T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion | TNUTZ | TNUTZ
These extrusions are 100% compatible with the following manufacturers: 80/20 #1003, T-SLOTS #650063www.tnutz.com
Wondering if the 4X4 build shown on the LED build site will be enough light...? I'd go with 3-3.5K strips.
Any input appreciated.
#1 heat, #2 reduction in electricity cost. I was thinking running 4 4' strips east and west, then fitting another couple strips North and south to cover the edges. I was planning on the 48A driver for the 4 and whichever driver the side strips would need. Would it be beneficial to add these red strips for flower even though they are only 60W total? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAW3O/?coliid=IFYEXZATB0EKT&colid=1LE2FYSASNBVG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_itspecific reason you want to change up the lighting?
I ordered an assload of these strips when they were on blowout sale lol. I've got some 2' double row F-Series strips and some 2' single row H-Series strips. These lights would be built with the single row H-Series. They will be 4' x 4', one of them will probably go into a 5' x 5' tent and the others are going to be for my buddies 10' x 10' room, so we'd hang 4 in the 10' x 10' space. I will probably get the B drivers so that we can put a dimmer.Yes, the 24A/48A just signifies the DC output voltage of the driver. They also have 24B/48B models but they require an external potentiometer to dim.
The 1’ & 2’ single row strips operate at 24v, whereas the 2’ double row and 4’ strips operate at 48v.
You can run as many strips in parallel as you want but you will need to get the appropriate wattage driver.
For a 4x4 you would want around ~480w to flower.
Which model strips are you thinking of going with?