Help mag or nitrogen deficiency?

Jserna444

Active Member
I did i told stashpot that i use ro water add calmag to 200 ppm then add silica as a ph up til i get ph up,
So that brings the ph up then i add my nutes to bring it to where it needs to be. He saod im making it harder on myself that i need to ph the water first bit how can i do that wothout adding calmag first because plain ro water has no buffers its damn near impossible to ph by itself
 

stashpot

Member
okay...
first amend you water so its usable and readable this should be common knowledge if you use calmag thats fine.
ph water
add feed
done.
 

Jserna444

Active Member
By adding calcium carbonate or pinches of baking soda. lots of ways!
So do i just add pinches of baking soda little by little checking ph get it where i want then add calmag then nutes? Im not trying to be rude or ask to much im just a visual learner so im trying to make sure i get it right
 

Trickyticky

Well-Known Member
okay...
first amend you water so its usable and readable this should be common knowledge if you use calmag thats fine.
ph water
add feed
done.
Well that your way of doing it ,
Just get your water add cal/mag first , then add nutes , check EC or ppm , check ph and adjust accordingly ,
Job done
 

stashpot

Member
Well that your way of doing it ,
Just get your water add cal/mag first , then add nutes , check EC or ppm , check ph and adjust accordingly ,
Job done
for me its way easier to ph the water first.. i use a massive bucket for water i fill it up and ph it then use that...

if i added my nutes to this water it will sit around in the bucket for a few days and the microbial life will die off.

Keeps it fresher, also if you use PH thats made from chemicals you'll be adding that to your nutes which will effect them.
another point is some plants dont like the same feed/ppm so feeding them as single plants instead of an overall ppm feed is better.
But yeah everybody has their own way thats why i offered it. just like you did.

I dont reply to you about how your way is also wrong?
 

stashpot

Member
I didn't say you way was wrong did I ? ? I said it's different way . Stop mixing words , lol .
This thread was made by Jsrena he is looking for help....why would u quote reply me on your first comment in this thread?
then proceed to tell your way to me and not Jserna , why didnt you just reply to him instead of trying to get one over me?
 

Trickyticky

Well-Known Member
This thread was made by Jsrena he is looking for help....why would u quote reply me on your first comment in this thread?
then proceed to tell your way to me and not Jserna , why didnt you just reply to him instead of trying to get one over me?
What ya on about ,
Why would anyone ph there tap water first before adding nutes , just stupid that . Maybe first time growing check it but ya just gonna get same reading or there abouts . Just silly really . Get 1 over on ya ? . Wouldn't of thought so. are you stoned and the parranoia set in .. Most ppl would add nutes THEN ph the water . Why ph water first then add nutes to then go and ph ya water again . If that works for you happy days
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
So that brings the ph up then i add my nutes to bring it to where it needs to be. He saod im making it harder on myself that i need to ph the water first bit how can i do that wothout adding calmag first because plain ro water has no buffers its damn near impossible to ph by itself
Tough spot your in Jserna444.

Should you PH water before or after adding nutes??? hmmmmm.

You have two members that disagree so I would suggest trying a search using google and find out for yourself.

Put this in a google search: ph water before or after adding nutrients

I think you will find your answer. Let us know what you find.
 

Jserna444

Active Member
The soil is black gold organic mixed with inert seed starting mix, chunky perlite, a dash of blood meal, and great white mycos watered in.
 

Jserna444

Active Member
Tough spot your in Jserna444.

Should you PH water before or after adding nutes??? hmmmmm.

You have two members that disagree so I would suggest trying a search using google and find out for yourself.

Put this in a google search: ph water before or after adding nutrients

I think you will find your answer. Let us know what you find.
Thanks man i will google that and do some research and kind of compare notes to try and come up with some kind of thesis. After im done i will come back and share what ive concluded and get yous guys opinions on it and see what we come up with.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Do not cut out Nitrogen during flowering..
Nitrogen is to a Plant is Protein.
Humans eat Protein, and convert it into Nitrogen. Plant skips this process, and takes up nitrogen.
Main thing is proper ratio, and dont over feed them. Improper ratio can also cause lockout of other chemicals.

Also at 33%, humidity is way to low.

But logically does it make sense to cut Protein, when you will be growing more, and producing more Biomass in the next couple months or so???

Say one has an 8 weeks flowering strain.

My base formula alol through the growth period is
19.5-20-39, and I adjust for PPM
Also added Epsom Salts.

I use 4-20-39 as base formula
then add
15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate
Then add Epsom Salts for Magnesium, and Sulfur.

I start seedlings out with 15% strength, but instead of 1 gallon water, I use it per 5 gallons, and feed, and water at each watering.

I also use Promix BX, and plants are grown from Seedling-Flowering under eather 1000w Hortilux HPS, or 1150w Gavita. Also Veg with a Gavita 1700e-1700umol LED.

We grow large plants because of plant counts, and bend them over to make more efficient use of the light, and dont top. Like plants that grow alot after flip, so veg period is less.
We usually veg 45-60 days, and then transplant into 20 gallon containers. Sometimes we may just Veg in 20g containers. If not we use 5g grow bags, and cut them off in the larger container.

But after flip, we keep the PPM on EVERY NUTRIENT going slightly UP every week, and at week 2.5- week 4 we will boost with 0-52-34. Monopotassium Phosphate, while all other nutrients are still Slightly increasing each week.

Then in week 5-6 Epsom Salts is boosted to supply more Mg, and Sulfur. Sulfur is very important for the production of Terpenes.

In weeks 7-8 PPM/Everything is reduced by 40%-60%.

Remember Nitrogen is Protein, and the thing that matters is Ratio, and PPM. Give to much N, and not enough P-K, they may not want to flower.

I slowly up the PPM of EVERYTHING each week, and also uppot as they fill the pot. I start in 32oz Deli Containers, Veg in 5 gallons
 
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polishpollack

Well-Known Member
In those first pics, you see how the leaf tips are yellow? That's your first clue. Trying to tell you something and everyone here is missing it. They are telling the grower to do the exact opposite of what the plant is saying. Accurate diagnosis is the MOST IMPORTANT step. Without that, you don't know what to do.
 

Jserna444

Active Member
In those first pics, you see how the leaf tips are yellow? That's your first clue. Trying to tell you something and everyone here is missing it. They are telling the grower to do the exact opposite of what the plant is saying. Accurate diagnosis is the MOST IMPORTANT step. Without that, you don't know what to do.
So what is the problem if you know what it is thats what why im asking for help. Yellow tips? So are you saying its a nutrient burn like nitrogen? Flush?
 
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