Beginner Tea Question

NightSpider

Active Member
You could have a smoke and chill, overthinking can be a killer.
Yeah thats what I did man, I am just stoned watching the pot calmly pondering. 5 ec cannot be ok, I should go on flushing right? But will the ec creep back up by itself? Hmmm, much to ponder, too little of my iq capacity functioning right now to process them.
 

insomnia65

Well-Known Member
Yeah thats what I did man, I am just stoned watching the pot calmly pondering. 5 ec cannot be ok, I should go on flushing right? But will the ec creep back up by itself? Hmmm, much to ponder, too little of my iq capacity functioning right now to process them.
I'd go to bed I think your flushed enough ha
But there's guys on here that know more than me I'm a newbie, but I sense over thinking.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
5 weeks old I think haha dont judge me I am a stoner I sometimes lose track of things.
They were germinated in jiffy things for a week, and the last 4 weeks were in those pots.
If I see it wilt, if the pot is light and the tip if my finger is dryish I water. Approx every 3 days until juust a little runoff.
Nope, equal parts of plagron bat mix, royalmix and lightmix. No added anything. Only fed bottle organic nutrients a little bit in the past. Started feeding 1/3 dose last week again.
I live in a country where weed is illegal and only a few grow shops operate and they do not have many options.

growkent.com

Those pots are 20 liters (5.2 gals). I will transplant into bigger final fabric pots, 10 gal tomorrow. I found somewhere who makes vermicompost and will go buy fresh. As you can see the pots right now are not full, I approximate the total volume of soil in 4 pots is 75 liters. I have another 75 liters of those 3 soil bags sitting there. As I will transplant into 4x 40 liter pots, I will need 150 ish liters. Instead of putting in the rest of those bagged soils I am thinking of = 75 existing mix in pots + 30 liter vermicompost + 40 liters compost. Is that good or should I put in some of the soils and less of the compost and vermicompost? I can also buy worms there so I will put some in the pots. How many whould I introduce into 10 gal pots? I will try and find some barley straw for mulch. Is there any process I can put the straw through that will recude the chance of introducing pests with it, is that even a problem?


Now, since I am a noob I am more prone to overwater rather than underwater so I prefer fabric pots but I must say the soil right now, especially the rootball are in the middle is so tight and hydrophobic when I water. How can I fix that?
no worries. Is your soil not absorbing any water at all? If that’s the case maybe try submerging your pot for an extended time under water? I’m wondering what the soil pH is too. You can probably start bumping up the dose as well. It’s organic, so you have way less of a chance of burning. You can use any straw just boil it for ten minutes to get rid of any pests. As far as worms like at least 30? If you have access to a pH kit take a reading of your soil.

one of the things about growing is definitely patience. Have you looked at any deficiency charts?
 

oill

Well-Known Member
I will be transplanting into their final pots in 2 days, when I do I will flush the ones with problems.




View attachment 4746703
The one on the bottom right was not perfect, I just trimmed the damaged leaves but except the veins being darker than the leaves, (which I dont know what it signifies) it seems ok.


The nitrogen deficient one on top right was probably nitrogen lockout, the yellowing seems to have stopped by then:
View attachment 4746762

The one on the top left:View attachment 4746705

Wow is this girl doing bad. The leaves on the middle first became pink streaks then it turned yellow and crumbly. The sets of leaves one level above them seem ok but started to turn pinkish. Worried about this one

** Bottom Left:
View attachment 4746704

View attachment 4746763

This is the same strain as the previous plant. This is the purple pink streak I was talking about.

I suspect molybdenum lockout but I have been watering at 6.6 ph for weeks now and the runoff (although little comes out) isnt very off.

I also suspect it might be just cold maybe? Because the two green cracks seem to get purple and the 2 gelatos have different sympoms than the first two, similar between themselves. Since green cracks look a bit more sativa ish, I thought maybe it was getting too cold at lights off. Usually when lights on it is 23-25 C and when off, 17-18.
By the looks of it your under led lights... in that case your too cold... 26c day and 21c night. Otherwise your not getting the transportation you need.
 

NightSpider

Active Member
By the looks of it your under led lights... in that case your too cold... 26c day and 21c night. Otherwise your not getting the transportation you need.
Very interesting. Could you give me a few more keywords about this topic so I can go google why plants under leds need higher temps so that I can learn and satisfy my curiosity? Will increase temps right away.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
By the looks of it your under led lights... in that case your too cold... 26c day and 21c night. Otherwise your not getting the transportation you need.
I have definitely grown at 78 and under with LED’s and they’ve grown fine. I think 80f is preferred, but I don’t think it’s causing the problem
 

NightSpider

Active Member
no worries. Is your soil not absorbing any water at all? If that’s the case maybe try submerging your pot for an extended time under water? I’m wondering what the soil pH is too. You can probably start bumping up the dose as well. It’s organic, so you have way less of a chance of burning. You can use any straw just boil it for ten minutes to get rid of any pests. As far as worms like at least 30? If you have access to a pH kit take a reading of your soil.

one of the things about growing is definitely patience. Have you looked at any deficiency charts?
I only transplanted one pot to the new bigger pot with worm castings+bagged soil mix added on. The new one was flushed extensively because I seem to have used wayy too much worm castings with way too little aeration (which was in the bagged soil). The EC was over 10 and I flushed a lot and at the end it was 5 when I stopped. The water goes down slowly but ultimately does not pool. The thing is I did it 60 hours ago and even the top of the soil is still very moist and the soil contracted, cracked.
How I did the transplant was: I removed the rootball which was pretty much all aorund the insides of the pot, put some of my new soil+worm casting mix on the bottom of the new pot to increase height, put the rootball on top of it, fill the sides and add a layer of new soil to the top, covering the old rootball.
The ph of the finished flushed pot runoff was 6.7.
Until what ec should I flush?
I do not think this much compactness can be good for the soil, but is there a way to fix it without unpotting and repotting again with the coco and perlite added soil mix?

I do not want to feed anything but water and teas anymore. Looking into how to make my first tea.

Yes, I have looked at deficiency charts, it seems like molybdenum def. caused most probably by bad ph. The idea was that when I was gonna flush before transplanting into bigger pot, it would be solved. I am waiting for my coco and perlite to arrive so I can add it to the bagged soil+ worm compost mix and continue potting the other 3 plants.
 

NightSpider

Active Member
I managed to increase the tent heat to 26-20 from 24-18 celsius degrees.

Current situation of the tent:
uzak tent.jpeg yakın tent white.jpeg yakın tnet sarı.jpeg


The big pot:

big pot surface 2.jpegbig pot surface kenar.jpegbig pot surface.jpeg


The plant I transplanted into it. The EC is 5 right now I think. Ph was 6.7, the soil seems to have bad drainage and is compact. Worried for the plant, looking for negative signs. It had a little bit of yellow tips before, they have not advanced yet so I will keep an eye on that for sure.

big pot burn.jpeg

The soil mix which will receive extra perlite and coco to fix aeration. Right now it is somewhere around 60 percent dense worm castings and %40 plagron brand bagged soil:

tray.jpeg
 

NightSpider

Active Member
Im confused ,you flushed the new soil?Not sure why its full of food?
Because the runoff was +10 EC, I thought high slat content burned and killed the roots?

60% worm castings will make mud and choke the plant.
Yeah, was a bit too high and stupid. I will add the perlite and coco. Will that suffice? I added no peat moss since I could not get my hands on some right now.
The pot right now is approx: (the old root ball was solid so the old root ball is just bagged soil. Under, on top, and on the sides of the old root ball is approx %60 worm c and %40 bagged soil.
Should I remove it and repot it with the soil with perlite and coco added?

Since I do not have peat moss right now, will adding abundant perlite and coco be enough? will I have too low CEC?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Just use your bag soil to transplant then add a cup of ewc ontop.So when you water it goes through the ewc to give some food.
You cant measure runoff of organic soil it means nothing and will always read high.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
So you have one plant that was transplant with this 60%ewc and you flushed it? If so it has to come out it cant breathe.
 

NightSpider

Active Member
The problem is,
I thought because my bagged soils are fertilized for 6 weeks, there would be salts in the soil and the soil life wouldnt work properly. Was I wrong?

If I could, I would just get peat moss pumice vermiculite worm castings and compost and do %30 peat moss %20 compost %20 worm castings %20 pumice %10 vermiculite base. I do not yet know enough about kelp meal neem meal alfalfa meal amendments etc so I would not know at the moment.

But I cannot find quality compost I trust to be organic and peat moss is gonna take a while to get, and I needed to transplant into bigger pots and flush. I said well I guess it would be better to mix bagged soil with some ewc to slowly maybe turn it into an organic grow and dilute the fertilized soil in organic matter while providing some aeration, but I miscalculated the aeration part. noob mistake

Did I get this whole thing wrong?


Just use your bag soil to transplant then add a cup of ewc ontop.So when you water it goes through the ewc to give some food.
You cant measure runoff of organic soil it means nothing and will always read high.
 

NightSpider

Active Member
So when these bags say complete fertilization for six week, they do not mean readily available nutrients? I thought this way because I had read that when there are readily available plants in the soil there are less exudates and the plant cant really tell microbes what it needs so you get deficiencies or burning etc.? I guess I was wrong but if I knew exactly what I would be able to not make such mistakes in the future.
thanks
 

NightSpider

Active Member
I had written in the previous message i deleted:
**** me, lol
but it removed the first part so it seemed liek I was insulting you, I was not, sorry man
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Alright, will take it out asap.
Thats a good start,hasnt been there long no harm.scrape off as much as you can of the wet goo. put it back into the pot and cover so no light can get in.Plant needs to breathe for a bit.
 

NightSpider

Active Member
Characteristics
Peat, perlite, worm castings, Bat Guano.

pH (EN13037): 6.1-7.5
E.C. (1:1,5): 1.0 - 1.5 mS/cm
Prefertilised with 10,5 kg/m³ organic fertiliser (NPK 5,5-11-5,5)
this is what it says, does organic fertiliser mean non soluble not readily available nutrients that will have to be broken down by soil life first?
 
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