Emerson Effect + End of Day Effect + UV Effect supplement bars with Geekbeast 630watt

CBS2020

Active Member
The time spent to understand all this and how to recreate it has taken so much time im wanting to ask for help and to consolidate what I have learnt so far and make it easy for others. I have highlighted in red the areas i need help with esp using UVB

Ideally i want to add End of day effect and UVB to the Geekbeast pro light to create the best spectrum and know when to use each additional light, for how long and what height.

Thanks for the help.


Emerson Effect: (increasing photos system 2 to 1 conversion for NADH and ATP)

A combination of 640-680 and 735nm light will produce more vegetative growth than an equal amount of 680 alone or 735 alone.
I have read anywhere between a 2:1 ratio to 3:1 ratio of deep red (660nm): far red (730nm)
I did find a study (need to look for it) that said a closer ratio may be considered even better (1:1)

How much watt or leds of 660nm and 730nm per sq m2?
10 watts of far red for every 8sq m2.

for a 3x3 tent = 9 sq m2 = 12 watt of far red = ~ 15x 660nm leds.
for a 4x8 tent = 32 sq m2 = 40 watt of far red = ~ 51x 660nm leds.
for a 9x5 tent = 45 sq m2 = 56 watt of far red = ~ 72x 660nm leds

For 730nm led amount you would just choose which ratio you will follow (half the amount of 660nm for 2:1 ratio)
Eg. the Geekbeast 630 pro light they have 72x 660nm leds and 24x 730nm leds ( 3:1 ratio)

When to use it:
Not yet 100% when 660+730 should be used in the cycle yet

Height:
Same as the other light spectrum for each stage


End of Day Effect: (switch the plant to sleep in 15mins vs 2 hours to bring on harvesting 5 to 7 days earlier or be able to run 2 hours extra light per day in flowering [14 hour on vs 12 hours on] for increased yield)

730nm -755nm is the off/on switch for putting the plants to sleep 15 minutes after light cycle.

not sure if its one or the other or you can have both...?
730nm needs to be run for 10-15mins alone after all other lights are off at the end of the light cycle.
This means if the 730nm lights cant be turned on separately to the other lights (like in most light bars) you will need a separate light bar

How much watt or leds of 730nm per sq m2?
7 watts of far red for every 8sq m2.

for a 3x3 tent = 9 sq m2 = 8 watt of infa red = 11x 730nm leds.
for a 4x8 tent =32sq m2 = 25 watt of infa red = 32x 730nm leds.
for a 9x5 tent = 45sq m2 = 40 watt of infa red = 51x 730nm leds.

When to use it:
During flowering?

Height:
Same as the other light spectrum for each stage

UV Effect: (creates a natural stress to the plants that activate their gene response [UVR8] to increase protection of their 'sun screen' which means trichomes)

Up to 20-30% increase in trichomes, thc
UVA 385nm will trigger the UVR8 gene response

Now many also use UVB which is in the 200-300nm range, but how much, what height etc?
The absence of UVB does not eliminate THC production, but rather reduces the output. It does, however, limit or stop CBD production as seen in the tests at the University of Maryland

6.16 watts of far red for every 8sq m2.

for a 3x3 tent = 9sq m2 = 7 watt of UV = ~11x UV leds.
for a 4x8 tent = 32sq m2 = 25 watt of UV = ~ 44 UV leds
for a 9x5 tent = 45sq m2 = 35 watt of UV = ~ 51x UV leds

When to use it:
Last 2 to 4 weeks of flower (sativa stains benefit most). 2-4 hours per day, broken into 15mins per hour

Height:
Not sure
 
Last edited:

CBS2020

Active Member
Here are the led 730nm only and UV only bars

Kingbrite 730nm
comes in;
20watt 11 led Cree XP-E2 560mm length strip
35watt 20 led Cree CP-E2 890mm length strip
35watt 52 led Epistar 940mm length strip

Rapidled 730nm
comes in;
7watt 4 led chips (covers 3x3 area)

Invisible sun 730nm
comes in;
20watt 8 led chips (covers 4x4 area)

For each 4x4 light bar to turn on 730nm separately for End of Day effect, to get best coverage PPFD wise 2x 20x led Creee 890mm strips would be best?

Can you run too much 730nm ?


Kingbright UV-A
comes in;
35w LG 395nm 20x led chips 890mm length strip
30w Epistar 390nm 52x led chips 940mm length strip (covers 4x4 area)

Rapidled UV-A 365nm and 390nm
comes in;
45watt 9x 365nm plus 9x 390nm strip (covers 2x4 area)


So with the geekbeast pro 630watt having 24x 350nm UV-A chips for a
9x5 area for example you would add another 27 led's to get the 50 led's needed ? Adding the 20x LG 395nm chips per light bar would give good coverage (more watts than what is needed but to give a even PPFD you would need 2x LG 20 led strips (one for each 630 grow light) - sound right?
Then my next question is, what about UVB ???

Thank you!
 
Last edited:

eminiplayer

Well-Known Member
Great post, I'm also wondering about all these things... hopefully somebody can come drop some knowledge bombs :bigjoint: I think you might have typed sq m2 instead of sq ft2 in your first post.
 

CBS2020

Active Member
This was the study talking about R:FR ratio

The R:FR ratio is referring to 660:730 not the total red spectrum

The R:FR photon ratios can be calculated according to the definition by Sellaro et al.(2010); R:FR = (650–670 nm)/(720–740 nm). B:G = (420–490 nm)/(500–570 nm)


In addition to the R:FR ratio, the researchers concluded that the total amount of far-red itself also impacted the time of flowering when the R:FR was below 3.5. This was most evident in late flowering genotypes, in which the flowering response could be enhanced by 14-21 days with the correct R:FR ratio and total far-red irradiation.
 
Last edited:

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Tthe science states that the peak triggering of UVR8 is at 285 nm..not 385nm..althought still is being debated if UVA (alone) increase THC...what has been well studied is that the 285 nm is what most activates the UVR8 and that wavelenght is UVB ..also 310 nm are important...
 

CBS2020

Active Member
Tthe science states that the peak triggering of UVR8 is at 285 nm..not 385nm..althought still is being debated if UVA (alone) increase THC...what has been well studied is that the 285 nm is what most activates the UVR8 and that wavelenght is UVB ..also 310 nm are important...
Thanks for the replies. This is a quote from

"385nm UVA light makes the UVR8 photon receptor more susceptible to the effects of 285 nm UVB which means less energy is required to effectively trigger the UVR8 pathway.
The combination of 385nm UVA and 285 nm UVB triggers the photon receptor responsible for improving the chemical profile of Cannabis. 285 nm and 385 nm have an entourage effect on secondary metabolite production when used together.
"
Solacare Super B seems to be the best choice for UV-B, two needed for 4x4.
 
Last edited:

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Its ok, it was not clear and maybe confusing the way it was posted in the previous post....385 nm and probably any UVA wavelenght and even probably just near UVA or blue light also protects the plant of the potential negative effects of the UVB light.
 

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
Tthe science states that the peak triggering of UVR8 is at 285 nm..not 385 nm..althought still is being debated if UVA (alone) increase THC...what has been well studied is that the 285 nm is what most activates the UVR8 and that wavelenght is UVB ..also 310 nm are important...
If you are interested in UVB levels..I recommend you 60 mw of 285 nm output power during a maximun of 3 hours a day each square meter . As an advice I do not recommend using 280 nm leds instead of 285 nm( hardest to find) for human and plant health reasons...


A better approach ..could be use 295 nm leds for a longer time, this way you provides a little more 310 nm light...and still have good activation of the UVR8...but those leds are expensive and rare to find...
me los imagino mezclados con nichia optisolis...o similar mezcla de blancos...eseee teknik... ;--)




...ese nachoooo ...felices navidades y prospero año nuevo...

Saludos desde Tenerife
 
Last edited:

nachooo

Well-Known Member




me los imagino mezclados con nichia optisolis...o similar mezcla de blancos...eseee teknik... ;--)




...ese nachoooo ...felices navidades y prospero año nuevo...

Saludos desde Tenerife
Feliz navidad desde el Pirineo!

Yes, Teknik has sent me recently some UVA leds and a prototype of his blue buddies among other goddies. I will test all in next grow..still need to solder the bare leds to the starboards cause he sent me some bare nichias. in roll packet...Right now I am using other UVAs and blues, but will change to Teknik ones due to their best efficiency..
This is my current spectrum now..

Untitled_044_02°_3589K_SpectralDistribution.jpg
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
That luminus UVB led is interessting but if you read the specs ..you will see that to emit more light in the correct wavelenght (285) you have to drive it at high amperage.. 800ma..and they give 80 mw output power..this means that you need only one led each square meter..and this will not allow a correct light distribution in a normal tent... I would prefer to use more number of leds driven at 100-150 ma..like the seoul viosys I use.
Anyway they can be useful in large grows..althought again I dont like that their peak emission is about 280 or less...too low in my opinion..
 

CBS2020

Active Member
Do you think the seol 285nm UVA is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4 ? In a 9x5 for example or 8x4 you could run 3x UVB (one each end of the geekbeast and one in the middle of the two lights)

Solacure UVB - Geekbeast pro - Solacure UVB - Geekbeast pro - Solacure UVB

Use the UVA from the geekbeast during start of flowering in small increments like 15min sessions for 2 hours, then upto 4 hours in peak suntime, then use the UVB for last 2 weeks ontop in same buildup.

Thoughts?
 

Southside112

Well-Known Member
I've been supplementing with far red and uvb for the first time in my current grow.
I am using 1 240 w qb and a 200w Timber cob fixture in a 3x3.
I've added a California lightworks uvb t5 fluorescent 2' tube and a rapid led far red led puck that has 4 red chips. I run them for 20 minutes per hour for 3 hours later in the day. I'm currently around 3.5 weeks flowering. Later in flower I might add 1 more 20 minute session per light cycle.
All lights are 24" above the canopy and around 900 ppfd.
Too early to tell if these supplemental lights are working. I do know that I desire more potent weed and hence the experiment. Cheers.
It seems that the frost on my plants is more that normal, however I've never run the strains I have going now.
 

CBS2020

Active Member
So questions im still trying to figure out.

when 660+730 should be used in the cycle yet for Emmerson effect ?
See post below, apparently 3rd week of flowering ?
what part of the cycle to start the 730 15mins after lights out for EOD effect ?
UVA 385nm at same height as other lights and at start of flowering phase or also start of vege phase?
- GLA* says 390nm can be run full cycle so 385 may be close enough to this to also run 2-4 hours a day in vege also to get the plants used to UVA. ?
UVB at a high of 24” / 60cm and run 2 to 4 hours split either side of midday (where UV is naturally at its highest)?
Solacure says with 18 hour veging UVA/UVB bulbs on 3 hours into light cycle. Then 3 hours Before lights out, the UVA/UVB bulbs go out.
with flowing 12 hours. 2 hours into light cycle, UVA/UVB comes on and off 2 hours before end of light cycle.
Basically the UV is on 2/3 of the time regardless of veg/flowering.


*GLA - Grow lights Australia (my next purchase when i have the $$) say "390-410nm full cycle as it is pretty much in the visible spectrum and does not carry as much energy as deep UVA or UVB, so we'd expect it to have similar results to the small amount of 400-430nm we have in our High Light boards"
 
Last edited:

CBS2020

Active Member
after some more reading..
Emerson effect - someone's comments (no references) – don’t use during first few weeks of flowering otherwise you get elongated stems.

660 nm does enhance photosynthesis when used alone, just not as efficiently as having it combine with 730 nm.
12-14% of the total watts (ppfd) to be a mix of FR (730nm) and R (660nm). GLA has 9% FR, Geekbeast only 1.5% FR and 4.5% 660nm (1:3 ratio).

EOD FR to R should be less than 1:3 (closer to 1:1 research shows may be better)
 
Last edited:

nachooo

Well-Known Member
after some more reading..
Emerson effect - someone's comments (no references) – don’t use during first few weeks of flowering otherwise you get elongated stems.

660 nm does enhance photosynthesis when used alone, just not as efficiently as having it combine with 730 nm.
12-14% of the total watts (ppfd) to be a mix of FR (730nm) and R (660nm). GLA has 9% FR, Geekbeast only 1.5% FR and 4.5% 660nm (1:3 ratio).

EOD FR to R should be less than 1:3 (closer to 1:1 research shows may be better)
Well..first..emerson effect can be used all plants live cycle..exactly as it happens in nature...just mantain a good red/far red ratio with a bigger amount of red so a positive ratio..like happens with the sun..

Other thing... EOD treatment is always after lights are off...and of course you should use for EOD "ONLY" far red...never with 660... so there is not a red/far red ratio in EOD...only far red...

Time of application of far red in EOD depends on intensity of far red irradiation and area of application...and of course not all far red leds are the same...so for example with a good far red led like the osram oslon square ones about 10 watts of far red each square meter for about 3 minutes after lights off is enough...

Remember EOD is only with far red...
So you have to built or buy a lamp were far red channel acts indepently...if you have lamps with far red added but in same channel than warm whites..you cant use it as EOD..my advice is use far red leds like the TEKNIK buddies ones..with very good light distribution..that can be easily driven a dimmed...one string is perfect for a 1 or 1,2 square meter tent.

You can always have warm whites in your main lamp with a better emission of far red..like the last samsung horticultural leds...so they cover the emerson effect and you only need a few independent mono far red leds for EOD..

My advice is that you dont rely on information given by led lamps sellers....they use to adapt their info to their products...just to sell more...
Be very careful with far red excesive use or far red light leaks..I have learn it the hard way several times...Far red alone is a double edged sword...

It is my opinion that UVA can be used and should be used all the plant cycle, and UVB can be used also but always used with UVA at same time..and better to add it slowly increasing it towards floration peak. You can use UVB only at peak flowering time if you want to save leds self life and you can have nice results also.

You said this "Do you think the seol 285nm UVA is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4 ?"...You confused UVA and UVB....285nm is UVB!!!!

You need to figure the exact radiant output of your UVB leds at a determined amperage....each brand has different outputs...study the datasheets...and give about 60mw radiant output of 285nm about 3 hours a day (1 square meter area)...or 30 mw for 6 hours etc...Different plants cant cope more or less UVB..this has to be found by yourself...again dont rely on info given by different brands.....

I see you have in general some confusion regarding Far red use and UVA/B..read all the UV threads in this forum..and the long far red thread...all is there...

Merry Christmas!
 
Last edited:

Cabrone

Well-Known Member
Well..first..emerson effect can be used all plants live cycle..exactly as it happens in nature...just mantain a good red/far red ratio with a bigger amount of red so a positive ratio..like happens with the sun..

Other thing... EOD treatment is always after lights are off...and of course you should use for EOD "ONLY" far red...never with 660... so there is not a red/far red ratio in EOD...only far red...

Time of application of far red in EOD depends on intensity of far red irradiation and area of application...and of course not all far red leds are the same...so for example with a good far red led like the osram oslon square ones about 10 watts of far red each square meter for about 3 minutes after lights off is enough...

Remember EOD is only with far red...
So you have to built or buy a lamp were far red channel acts indepently...if you have lamps with far red added but in same channel than warm whites..you cant use it as EOD..my advice is use far red leds like the TEKNIK buddies ones..with very good light distribution..that can be easily driven a dimmed...one string is perfect for a 1 or 1,2 square meter tent.

You can always have warm whites in your main lamp with a better emission of far red..like the last samsung horticultural leds...so they cover the emerson effect and you only need a few independent mono far red leds for EOD..

My advice is that you dont rely on information given by led lamps sellers....they use to adapt their info to their products...just to sell more...
Be very careful with far red excesive use or far red light leaks..I have learn it the hard way several times...Far red alone is a double edged sword...

It is my opinion that UVA can be used and should be used all the plant cycle, and UVB can be used also but always used with UVA at same time..and better to add it slowly increasing it towards floration peak. You can use UVB only at peak flowering time if you want to save leds self life and you can have nice results also.

You said this "Do you think the seol 285nm UVA is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4 ?"...You confused UVA and UVB....285nm is UVB!!!!

You need to figure the exact radiant output of your UVB leds at a determined amperage....each brand has different outputs...study the datasheets...and give about 60mw radiant output of 285nm about 3 hours a day (1 square meter area)...or 30 mw for 6 hours etc...Different plants cant cope more or less UVB..this has to be found by yourself...again dont rely on info given by different brands.....

I see you have in general some confusion regarding Far red use and UVA/B..read all the UV threads in this forum..and the long far red thread...all is there...

Merry Christmas!
Nailed it! Good post
 

CBS2020

Active Member
Well..first..emerson effect can be used all plants live cycle..exactly as it happens in nature...just mantain a good red/far red ratio with a bigger amount of red so a positive ratio..like happens with the sun..

Other thing... EOD treatment is always after lights are off...and of course you should use for EOD "ONLY" far red...never with 660... so there is not a red/far red ratio in EOD...only far red...

Time of application of far red in EOD depends on intensity of far red irradiation and area of application...and of course not all far red leds are the same...so for example with a good far red led like the osram oslon square ones about 10 watts of far red each square meter for about 3 minutes after lights off is enough...

Remember EOD is only with far red...
So you have to built or buy a lamp were far red channel acts indepently...if you have lamps with far red added but in same channel than warm whites..you cant use it as EOD..my advice is use far red leds like the TEKNIK buddies ones..with very good light distribution..that can be easily driven a dimmed...one string is perfect for a 1 or 1,2 square meter tent.

You can always have warm whites in your main lamp with a better emission of far red..like the last samsung horticultural leds...so they cover the emerson effect and you only need a few independent mono far red leds for EOD..

My advice is that you dont rely on information given by led lamps sellers....they use to adapt their info to their products...just to sell more...
Be very careful with far red excesive use or far red light leaks..I have learn it the hard way several times...Far red alone is a double edged sword...

It is my opinion that UVA can be used and should be used all the plant cycle, and UVB can be used also but always used with UVA at same time..and better to add it slowly increasing it towards floration peak. You can use UVB only at peak flowering time if you want to save leds self life and you can have nice results also.

You said this "Do you think the seol 285nm UVA is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4 ?"...You confused UVA and UVB....285nm is UVB!!!!

You need to figure the exact radiant output of your UVB leds at a determined amperage....each brand has different outputs...study the datasheets...and give about 60mw radiant output of 285nm about 3 hours a day (1 square meter area)...or 30 mw for 6 hours etc...Different plants cant cope more or less UVB..this has to be found by yourself...again dont rely on info given by different brands.....

I see you have in general some confusion regarding Far red use and UVA/B..read all the UV threads in this forum..and the long far red thread...all is there...

Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the reply, first post i clarified questions better, the last post should not have said
"EOD" should have said Emmerson = FR to R should be less than 1:3 (closer to 1:1 research shows may be better) so yes got that far red 730nm is used alone to trigger the Pr Pfr states for "sleep faster".

The Geekbeast uses 301B top bin 3500K (they have H also but out stock), plus Cree XP-E2 660nm x 72 per bar and 24x Osram 730nm (3:1 ratio). The 730nm can be turned on and off but only on with the other lights so i must buy separate 730nm bars ( i was thinking 2x 52 led pcs from kingbrite as posted above or would 20pcs bars be enough???) this is per 600w bar. 104x 730nm may be more watts than i need but to get a good PPFD thats what is needed. Question is, is that too much for EOD effect ?

Can you tell me more about using too much far red and what your have learned from experience? That would be great to know :)

And yes sorry typo
seol 385nm UVA (not 285 UVB) is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4

There is not one thread with all the info esp 50 pages long which i have tried putting into one spot and just clarifying any left over questions. Shame i cant go back and edit posts...

UVB i believe solarcure super b, using 3 for a 9x5 should be enough ?

Thanks again and Merry Christmas too !
 

nachooo

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply, first post i clarified questions better, the last post should not have said
"EOD" should have said Emmerson = FR to R should be less than 1:3 (closer to 1:1 research shows may be better) so yes got that far red 730nm is used alone to trigger the Pr Pfr states for "sleep faster".

The Geekbeast uses 301B top bin 3500K (they have H also but out stock), plus Cree XP-E2 660nm x 72 per bar and 24x Osram 730nm (3:1 ratio). The 730nm can be turned on and off but only on with the other lights so i must buy separate 730nm bars ( i was thinking 2x 52 led pcs from kingbrite as posted above or would 20pcs bars be enough???) this is per 600w bar. 104x 730nm may be more watts than i need but to get a good PPFD thats what is needed. Question is, is that too much for EOD effect ?

Can you tell me more about using too much far red and what your have learned from experience? That would be great to know A

And yes sorry typo
seol 385nm UVA (not 285 UVB) is enough that the geekbeast pro 630watt has per 4x4

There is not one thread with all the info esp 50 pages long which i have tried putting into one spot and just clarifying any left over questions. Shame i cant go back and edit posts...

UVB i believe solarcure super b, using 3 for a 9x5 should be enough ?

Thanks again and Merry Christmas too !
HI again, solacure is a good brand , they sell quite potent lamps, I have not used then , before leds I was using arcadia tubes, but I think solacure are much better..I like their broad UVB/UVA spectrum. Their specs in that model said to use two lamps every 1000 Watts HPS...well this is more or less like 2 lamps every 600 watts,,,of leds..quickly estimated of course...This way of calc is not good cause in my opinion it should be use an area calculation...instead of reffering to a HPS lamp...but anyway...It seems that your estimation is correct...they said a lamp per a little tent..so 4x4 , 16 square foot so 3 lamps aprox for a 45 square foot (9x5).

Are you planning your Far red for that 9x5 area? if yes this will need about 50 wats of far red...I dont know how are the specs of knigbrites...and how is the bar designed..but once you know the watts needed...(you can use a little more or a little less than 50 watts, you can compensate difference just using them more or less time in EOD) , your main goal should be have a good light distribution...every case is different....so try to use the fixtures that better adapt to your garden..

I like a lot the far red buddies string that TEKNIK designed and is sold here:
https://growlightsaustralia.com/product/buddies/ they have an excellent optics perfect if your lamps are close to the plants and they can be glued to preexisting bars or as they dont need to be attached to any aluminium or dissipating heat material , you can attach them to a wood or plastic structure..love their versatility so with 5 strings you are covered..but have to find a way of install the strings cause they are not "bars".
Anyway whatever far red you use...considering you are using a good leds brand...use about 1 watt per square foot for 5 minutes after lights off..this is an aproximation but should work...

Regarding issues with Far red bad use... lets talk for example about my last grow... my uvb led lamp was drived like my far reds by a 4 channel sonoff device...for whatever reason the cheap chinese device had a problem...even with the UVB channel off..there was a current leak on the far red channel..that issue sent some volts to the far red leds..even when they should be off..that light leak was very very little..but was on all day and night.. I had to stay at the dark for some minutes to my eyes to notice it..well it was like only a watt of far red over all the tent area....this produced a extreme stem elongation...plants went to 1,5 meter high when they should have less than 1 meter.....and thanks God finally I found the problem...

So be careful...use good quality timers...after you fix the schedule..be there..check that is working ok, check that there is no more minutes of far red at night that those that have been programed,check one and two and more times..be sure... Far red light acts as a signal..it dont need a lot of intensity...a little more can do great effects...specially if there are no main light on to compensate the far red/ red ratio...check check check...and check again that your timers are ok and working......

Far red is a great tool..but never over do it...
 
Top