Nutrient Burn RDWC

[rkymtnman]

Right on Thanks! I will do just that. Do you think it is ok to keep the floralicious plus with the trio and cal mag? Can sugar burn the plan? I honestly care more about taste than yield.

sugar feeds microbes in soil. all it does in hydro is mess shit up.

towards mid flower, start using 1gram per gal of epsom salts in your res. that will bring out smells and tastes more than just about anything else. Sulfur.

 

[Gambit79]

and a foliar spray with epsom salts to fix the Mg issue. right before lights off if you can. 1 or 2 grams per gallon.

Thanks ^^ will this just help the leaves already affected or just new growth?

 

[Gambit79]

sugar feeds microbes in soil. all it does in hydro is mess shit up.

towards mid flower, start using 1gram per gal of epsom salts in your res. that will bring out smells and tastes more than just about anything else. Sulfur.

Thanks!

 

[rkymtnman]

Thanks ^^ will this just help the leaves already affected or just new growth?

it should help what you got now. it will get worse quickly if not fixed. i usually do 2 sprays about 12 hours or so apart. right as the lights go out is best time.

i think once you get back on track and simplify your nutes, you'll get them going again and be fine.

 

[Gambit79]

Thanks again! I will update this as I go in case someone runs across a similar problem.

 

[ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ]

Yes, simple sometimes works better.
I've seen great results (not personally) using just the three part line plus calmag at about 75% strength
Or the Lucas method and just use 1 part GH flora micro to 2 parts GH flora bloom. Maybe plus some calmag.
You can do that, and work your way up according to desired ppm. Usually the max people seem to hit is 8ml/g Micro and 16ml/g Bloom.

 

[GBAUTO]

My neighbor runs the full gambit of GH Flora nutes in her DWC system.
I think that there are about 10 different nutes/additives she uses.
I started my dwc journey 5 years ago with GH, and it worked well but it does run a high ec compared to most mixes.
It was hard for me to wrap my head around why one would need so many additives.
It's one of the reasons I like using Jacks 3-2-1. Simple. cheap. and effective.
Aside from the 3-parts of that dry mix, I also add some silica during veg and early flower as well as Tribus original bennies.

 

[mr4tune]

Ya ideal and real world is diff you get better cal/mg uptake at 6.2 and can run a lower nute mix.

As far as I'm concerned, both of those statements are incorrect.

In hydro your calcium is cut out after 5.8 and your magnesium doesn't start until 5.8. At least off the chart I've been using for 10+ years now. I run a drift of 5.6 - 6.0 just since my systems go from 5.8 to 6 in no time. What you run your nute mix at strength wise is dependent on your strain(s) and environment. Those 2 factors and a proper pH level dictate uptake.

 

[Kdoggy]

Yes, simple sometimes works better.
I've seen great results (not personally) using just the three part line plus calmag at about 75% strength
Or the Lucas method and just use 1 part GH flora micro to 2 parts GH flora bloom. Maybe plus some calmag.
You can do that, and work your way up according to desired ppm. Usually the max people seem to hit is 8ml/g Micro and 16ml/g Bloom.

Thats awsome so bro mca n

As far as I'm concerned, both of those statements are incorrect.

In hydro your calcium is cut out after 5.8 and your magnesium doesn't start until 5.8. At least off the chart I've been using for 10+ years now. I run a drift of 5.6 - 6.0 just since my systems go from 5.8 to 6 in no time. What you run your nute mix at strength wise is dependent on your strain(s) and environment. Those 2 factors and a proper pH level dictate uptake.

well see i find yoyr statement incorrect so i guess we both grow differently with good results so i guess your norm isnt mine and based on his reservoir and room temp his system runs at the same temps as mine so my experience resembles his. What are your temps to be running those numbers.

 

[mr4tune]

To each their own definitely dude.

But we each have variables. Nutrients, water, ph, strain requirements, etc. Just because you have good results running at 6.2 doesn't make that right. It just means you've found a balance for what your variables equate to. Idk how you don't get Ca or K deficiencies running 6.1

Biology dictates what pH levels the nutrients are available to the plants in soil or hydro. Not you or me. The water temps related to DO levels and how easily bacteria can grow. The enviro impacts transpiration, etc. etc. I say this because it all starts with the pH and ends with the previously related factors.

As far as "those numbers" I'm always within the correct vpd range for my state of growth. I run higher temps in veg to save on cooling (85) and lower in flower (75-80) but its irrelevant since my hum matches the temp in the vpd chart. Chillers at 66F and sterile systems. Monosylicic, floraflex, and thats it. No deficiencies, and pearly white roots.

Anywho this is the chart I've always used.

 

[ҖҗlegilizeitҗҖ]

To each their own definitely dude.

But we each have variables. Nutrients, water, ph, strain requirements, etc. Just because you have good results running at 6.2 doesn't make that right. It just means you've found a balance for what your variables equate to. Idk how you don't get Ca or K deficiencies running 6.1

Biology dictates what pH levels the nutrients are available to the plants in soil or hydro. Not you or me. The water temps related to DO levels and how easily bacteria can grow. The enviro impacts transpiration, etc. etc. I say this because it all starts with the pH and ends with the previously related factors.

As far as "those numbers" I'm always within the correct vpd range for my state of growth. I run higher temps in veg to save on cooling (85) and lower in flower (75-80) but its irrelevant since my hum matches the temp in the vpd chart. Chillers at 66F and sterile systems. Monosylicic, floraflex, and thats it. No deficiencies, and pearly white roots.

Anywho this is the chart I've always used.

To each their own definitely dude.

But we each have variables. Nutrients, water, ph, strain requirements, etc. Just because you have good results running at 6.2 doesn't make that right. It just means you've found a balance for what your variables equate to. Idk how you don't get Ca or K deficiencies running 6.1

Biology dictates what pH levels the nutrients are available to the plants in soil or hydro. Not you or me. The water temps related to DO levels and how easily bacteria can grow. The enviro impacts transpiration, etc. etc. I say this because it all starts with the pH and ends with the previously related factors.

As far as "those numbers" I'm always within the correct vpd range for my state of growth. I run higher temps in veg to save on cooling (85) and lower in flower (75-80) but its irrelevant since my hum matches the temp in the vpd chart. Chillers at 66F and sterile systems. Monosylicic, floraflex, and thats it. No deficiencies, and pearly white roots.

Anywho this is the chart I've always used.

Thank you for pointing this out, its interesting to see.
Almost every ph uptake chart I've seen disagrees with this, that Ca and Mg uptake best above 6...



But I looked closer at this becuase of your chart, and I did find several charts pointing out Ca does uptake past 5.8, but at a slower rate.

 

[Kdoggy]

To each their own definitely dude.

But we each have variables. Nutrients, water, ph, strain requirements, etc. Just because you have good results running at 6.2 doesn't make that right. It just means you've found a balance for what your variables equate to. Idk how you don't get Ca or K deficiencies running 6.1

Biology dictates what pH levels the nutrients are available to the plants in soil or hydro. Not you or me. The water temps related to DO levels and how easily bacteria can grow. The enviro impacts transpiration, etc. etc. I say this because it all starts with the pH and ends with the previously related factors.

As far as "those numbers" I'm always within the correct vpd range for my state of growth. I run higher temps in veg to save on cooling (85) and lower in flower (75-80) but its irrelevant since my hum matches the temp in the vpd chart. Chillers at 66F and sterile systems. Monosylicic, floraflex, and thats it. No deficiencies, and pearly white roots.

Anywho this is the chart I've always used.

Ive never seen your chart before personally. If ca wasnt avail in big enough quantities at 6.2 why would flora series recommend 5.5-6.5ph i dunno i think like anything on the internet all we can do is go by real world which is what im doing too. Ive never had a ca mg issue with 20+ strains so i dunno i dont run your temps though i run colder and use diff nutes so maybe your nutes have less avail ca mg i dunno.

 

[mr4tune]

lol I hear ya man. Im looking at charts now on google and I'm even more confused by the variance. Like some are even saying 7 is optimal for hydro which is insane.

 

[mr4tune]

Im assuming flora recommends that range because they expect a drift. 6.5 seems high for me but maybe its a wide range for strain variance...

 

[Kdoggy]

Im assuming flora recommends that range because they expect a drift. 6.5 seems high for me but maybe its a wide range for strain variance...

Ya exactly i dunno i run my lettuce at 6.4 and peppers at 5.8 do they die if its switched no but i just read thars what i should do lol.

 

[Gambit79]

KISS. Bob is correct. way too much stuff in your soup.

Question? I did as others suggested and simplified the nute mix to just 10ml per gallon Micro and Grow and 5 ml per gallon Bloom, the only additive being Cal mag which I used half strength at 2.5 ml per gallon. The PPM is way higher than when I used the chart for the expert line with all the additives! When I was using https://generalhydroponics.com/feedchart-generator expert line with all the additives it came to 770. Now it is at 1000. Should I add some RO water to lower it? Side note I just did a 24 hour flush to be safe.

 

[Kdoggy]

I do personally 1/3 -1/2 that recipe ive never run it at full ratio you could deff dilute and be fine take out 5 gallons at least and add 5 gallons ro then adjust ph.

 

[rkymtnman]

Should I add some RO water to lower it?

yes. cut that in half to 500ppm IMO. use your ppm meter to tell you how the plants are eating. it's much easier to add more nutes if needed.

try something like this:
day 1 ppm 500

what is day 2 ppm? is it 400? too weak is it 600? too strong is it 300? way too weak is it 475? perfect

don't follow a chart. follow your plants.

 

[rkymtnman]

he only additive being Cal mag which I used half strength at 2.5 ml per gallon.

i would only add cal/mg if i saw that the plants need it. it adds a lot of unneeded N and also raises your EC/ppm alot.

 

[Gambit79]

yes. cut that in half to 500ppm IMO. use your ppm meter to tell you how the plants are eating. it's much easier to add more nutes if needed.

try something like this:
day 1 ppm 500

what is day 2 ppm? is it 400? too weak is it 600? too strong is it 300? way too weak is it 475? perfect

don't follow a chart. follow your plants.

OK I do check the PPM daily, but learning to go half the recommended strength is new info. How high a risk are deficiencies at half strength? My RDWC usually doesnt need topped off during the week so if I see it go down by 20 ppm per day is that ok until the next nute change? (every 7 days)