Seedling - curling/bending stem & nutrients in soil

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TheFandorn

Member
Thanks for your input. To be honest i wasnt planning on ever transplanting her. Ive read that autoflowers dont really like to be transplanted so its already in the final pot. I think that it's size is accurate as the plant itself shouldnt grow to big (because of its genetics), and my growing space is also not all that big. And you most definitely helped :D
 
DrBuzzFarmer

DrBuzzFarmer

Well-Known Member
Agree completely with SpaceJesus.
You're fine.
Your concern now is overwatering, because aeration is lacking. Just gauge the water level by the weight of the pot, and keep it moist, not wet.
Start watering at the edges to convince the lil bugger to send down roots, and add a bit of Hormex to speed that process up a bit.
Once it's established and rooted strongly, it will drink enough to keep from being waterlogged.
Remember, the tap root is pushing through the soil and it might make the top wobble a bit as it goes. Plants actually move quite a bit, and you can see it if you set up a camera to take pics every few minutes and watch it as stop frame video.
No biggie, unless it pushes right out of the soil (which is very rare, but I have had it happen with overwatered pots.)
A better thing to worry about would be coming up with a light with more intensity, to give you the dense buds you will want at finish.

Edit: And I agree that autos make do with a small bit of soil. I have a friend growing them in one gallon pots and they do fabulously.(depending upon genetics, as they now have reg autos....)
 
T

TheFandorn

Member
Thank you very much. I've read that you need 50k Lumens per 1m^2 of growing space, as i have a little bit less then 0,1m^2 then a little bit less then 5k lumens should be ok, shouldnt it? The one thing that i certainly can (and will) improve is my light reflector, because the one i currently have is a makeshift one and it is to far away from the bulb and doesnt work all that well.

And since Hormex is not availible where i live, can I use a different rooting powder?
 
DrBuzzFarmer

DrBuzzFarmer

Well-Known Member
I don't have much experience with cfl bulbs, but I've used damn near everything else.
I am an old school weed nerd.
I use HPS and MH for the terpene production. I have friends with LEDs, but they do not get the results I do, even with my clones that I give them.
It's a long discussion why I prefer old school lighting, but it wasn't until I put my plants under 1000 watts of HPS that I saw my genetics as they were supposed to be.
That is not to say you cannot provide yourself with enough smoke with ANY light, just a comment about seeing genetic POTENTIAL.
So, knowing that the intensity of a 1000 watt HPS was required to see the genetic potential of my plants, do a comparison, and try to get that intensity however you must, considering your environment and growing conditions.
Get as close as you can without causing yourself a lot of problems with heat and dry air.
For instance, I once had to use a 100 watt diamond LED light to grow in a closet, because that's all I could manage.
I was able, through topping selectively, to grow 18 inch plants with 8 colas, in a rotating schedule, with a 2 bulb high output florescent as a veg light.
I stayed high for 6 months that way, though it was just enough for me.
SO, you can grow with any light, but to see the potential locked in the seed, the intensity must be up to par.
 
T

TheFandorn

Member
DrBuzzFarmer said:
I don't have much experience with cfl bulbs, but I've used damn near everything else.
I am an old school weed nerd.
I use HPS and MH for the terpene production. I have friends with LEDs, but they do not get the results I do, even with my clones that I give them.
It's a long discussion why I prefer old school lighting, but it wasn't until I put my plants under 1000 watts of HPS that I saw my genetics as they were supposed to be.
...
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Thanks for the advice DrBuzzFarmer. Thats actually one of best advices about lighting Ive ever read.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
TheFandorn said:
ive read a ton of contradictionary posts about humidity domes, but ill give it a try. Wont taking the plant out of the ground stress it too much? And if I were to take it out should i try to get a different kind of soil with no nutritients? And i also assume that i should do it asap while the roots are small. I got the soil from a gardening store. I got one of the cheaper ones
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No dome!!!!!!’
 
J

Jimbo the Gael

Well-Known Member
TheFandorn said:
I just realized that I might have screwed up a little bit. The soil that I bought has been fertilized in the factory with a 14-16-18 NPK fertilizer. Is that bad? Ive read that young plants shouldnt be receiving any nutrients. So should i try to flush the soil? If so, when would be the right time to do that (to avoid hurting the roots even more)?
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Don't flush the soil. The whole reason you don't feed the plant early is because of the nutes already in the soil.
 
DrBuzzFarmer

DrBuzzFarmer

Well-Known Member
Thing about a dome is transpiration.
Domes cause "learning disabilities" in starts. It makes hardening off a necessary process.
If you have time for it, fine, but otherwise it needs to be figured into your schedule.
It's not a natural process in nature.
 
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