scrog question?

the native

Well-Known Member
cheers mate,yep ive seen them there clear with little black spots on their back. They shit under sides of leafs. Little white spots on the upside of leafs.

ive turned down my extraction fan(try an increase humidity) a bit and added a smaller fan at the bottom. I did have lady bugs in there earlier but haven't spotted any latley.ill need to buy some more.

id say ive brought it in from my compost tumbler.
its difficult to spray and not get any on buds.

Thanks again and i will update in a couple of days.
 

Killaki

Well-Known Member
cheers mate,yep ive seen them there clear with little black spots on their back. They shit under sides of leafs. Little white spots on the upside of leafs.

ive turned down my extraction fan(try an increase humidity) a bit and added a smaller fan at the bottom. I did have lady bugs in there earlier but haven't spotted any latley.ill need to buy some more.

id say ive brought it in from my compost tumbler.
its difficult to spray and not get any on buds.

Thanks again and i will update in a couple of days.
I came to suggest lady bugs but I see you are already aware.
 
looking good mate, keep up the good work, check for mites the clones i got from you had mites on, im not seeing any signs of mites in your photos so should be all good, but won't hurt to check.

looking good for a good harvest.
You certainly have put a lot of time and investment in.
Definitely a interesting grow.

All the best.
 
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the native

Well-Known Member
looking good mate, keep up the good work, check for mites the clones i got from you had mites on, im not seeing any signs of mites in your photos so should be all good, but won't hurt to check.

looking good for a good harvest.
You certainly have put a lot of time and investment in.
Definitely a interesting grow.

All the best.
sorry bout those mites.ive got a auto outside and doesnt seem to have mites on it.mustve been in my soil.Damit.still getting mites nw,the ladies have gotten a bit more thic.i think my best bet would be these.


im guessing there gonna come on strong towards the end.ive been keeping them at bay so far.

thanks man
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
Spider mite and egg killer......lavender oil.......1/2 ounce oil + 5 milliliters of plain unscented dish soap, mix thoroughly then add to 1 liter water in this order (this is a strong dose you can go lighter for preventative spray). If you mix the oil into water then add dish soap the oil wont emulsify properly.Spray entire plant top and bottom of leafs lights off. Spray every 2-4 days to break the life cycle in case you missed any eggs. This is a very effective, affordable, and safe treatment that has never let me down. You can use all throughout veg and flower.
 
pics of mite damage.
As a licenced commercial horticulturist i have access to chemicals, you cant buy, ones which prevent mite development, https://adria.nz/wp-content/uploads/Eromite-5L-label.pdf for example. its a very soft spray, these days sprays are very highly regulated in nz , no residue.

Ok to use in early veg but don't recommend once switched to flower.

14 day withholding period in fruit.

see how you go, but maybe try do a good clean up after harvest.

Bleach everything, tent walls, bath soak pots etc, those eggs can survive 16 months.

Ive tried all the natural ways , and the plant store sprays, mitre 10, palmers etc They simply dont work. lavender oil won't clean it up.
Ive tried it.

One spray of euromite or similar many commercial choices available, and you wont have mites again, this is the reason i only grow from seed and dont buy clones from other places.

if you have trouble or need further advice you have my number.
 
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the native

Well-Known Member
As a licenced commercial horticulturist i have access to chemicals, you cant buy, ones which prevent mite development, https://adria.nz/wp-content/uploads/Eromite-5L-label.pdf for example.

Ok to use in early veg but don't recommend once switched to flower.

14 day withholding period in fruit.

see how you go, but maybe try do a good clean up after harvest.

Bleach everything, tent walls, bath soak pots etc, those eggs can survive 16 months.

Ive tried all the natural ways , and the plant store sprays, mitre 10, palmers etc They simply dont work. lavender oil won't clean it up.
Ive tried it.

One spray of euromite or similar many commercial choices available, and you wont have mites again, this is the reason i only grow from seed and dont buy clones from other places.

if you have trouble or need further advice you have my number.
thanks for the info and help mate.i dont want to use chemicals tho,even if it means trying all the natural methods to find which one works.ive read a few threads and there is success

with natural remedies. ive learnt so much from this grow, and to have mites come in nw suxs,but a good learning curve.

Its not the end of the world,and i guess im gonna open the tent up one of these days and there will be webs,it is what it is.

Im gonna use some iso wipes next week if my problems are getting worse.

thanks again bro for your help.
 
thanks for the info and help mate.i dont want to use chemicals tho,even if it means trying all the natural methods to find which one works.ive read a few threads and there is success

with natural remedies. ive learnt so much from this grow, and to have mites come in nw suxs,but a good learning curve.

Its not the end of the world,and i guess im gonna open the tent up one of these days and there will be webs,it is what it is.

Im gonna use some iso wipes next week if my problems are getting worse.

thanks again bro for your help.
No worries, i do understand, keep up the good work with the grow.
In winter grows mites wont be such a problem, but those eggs will still be there in the thousands next summer. once heat increases and humidity drops.

They will start webbing your buds soon, so to prevent this remove the worst leaves, this might get you though.

Dried buds with dead mites bits, and mite poop included isn't appetizing to me.

cheers
 
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jcdws602

Well-Known Member
As a licenced commercial horticulturist i have access to chemicals, you cant buy, ones which prevent mite development, https://adria.nz/wp-content/uploads/Eromite-5L-label.pdf for example. its a very soft spray, these days sprays are very highly regulated in nz , no residue.

Ok to use in early veg but don't recommend once switched to flower.

14 day withholding period in fruit.

see how you go, but maybe try do a good clean up after harvest.

Bleach everything, tent walls, bath soak pots etc, those eggs can survive 16 months.

Ive tried all the natural ways , and the plant store sprays, mitre 10, palmers etc They simply dont work. lavender oil won't clean it up.
Ive tried it.

One spray of euromite or similar many commercial choices available, and you wont have mites again, this is the reason i only grow from seed and dont buy clones from other places.

if you have trouble or need further advice you have my number.
Lavender oil does work. Maybe you didn't emulsify it correctly or mix it strong enough. Im not here to debate what works best. Im only here to try and help. Systemics do work i know because I've tried them but they are hazardous. I'm not sure why lavender didn't work for you but it did for me and numerous people that i have given this recipe to. Op can try it to see if in fact it works. It's very inexpensive so you don't loose much but a few bucks and a little time. For it to work correctly you must spray every 2-4 days for a couple weeks. It also works as a pm preventative because it is also a fungicide.
 

the native

Well-Known Member
Lavender oil does work. Maybe you didn't emulsify it correctly or mix it strong enough. Im not here to debate what works best. Im only here to try and help. Systemics do work i know because I've tried them but they are hazardous. I'm not sure why lavender didn't work for you but it did for me and numerous people that i have given this recipe to. Op can try it to see if in fact it works. It's very inexpensive so you don't loose much but a few bucks and a little time. For it to work correctly you must spray every 2-4 days for a couple weeks. It also works as a pm preventative because it is also a fungicide.
before i use iso wipes, i will try this and give pics and update.thanks both of you for offering help.
 
Lavender oil does work. Maybe you didn't emulsify it correctly or mix it strong enough. Im not here to debate what works best. Im only here to try and help. Systemics do work i know because I've tried them but they are hazardous. I'm not sure why lavender didn't work for you but it did for me and numerous people that i have given this recipe to. Op can try it to see if in fact it works. It's very inexpensive so you don't loose much but a few bucks and a little time. For it to work correctly you must spray every 2-4 days for a couple weeks. It also works as a pm preventative because it is also a fungicide.
Lavender oil is in-fact rated far more toxic than Euromite due to the linalyl acetate and linalool in lavender oil, this is what makes it poisonous to the mites.

The LD50 is higher.

Euromite is a mild naturally derived mite growth regulator which leads to adult mites laying sterile eggs and prevents existing eggs and nymphs from developing. it doesn't kill. just makes sterile the eggs.

its not a broad spectrum poison like lavender oil.

And it works, unlike lavender oil, that myth has been around too long.

Lavender oil cant kill the eggs. you can add a bio oil, but that is fairly damaging to the leaf at the rates needed and spray coverage needed near impossible.

Euromite is semi systemic, so if its sprayed on the suface of the leaf it will get mites under the leaf, Lavender oil relies on direct contact.
 
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jcdws602

Well-Known Member
You're welcome. Best wishes. Oh and one more thing when you mix the lavender oil with the dawn dish soap do it in a glass container. It will eat plastic up until it is mixed with water. Then you can add it to any plastic container.
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
Lavender oil is in-fact rated far more toxic than Euromite due to the linalyl acetate and linalool in lavender oil, this is what makes it poisonous to the mites.

The LD50 is higher.
Actually I did not know so i won't pretend to. However, I am no chemist but in fact I do find it very interesting to have some insight on why it does in fact kill mites and their eggs. I will research and use the information you have given me and try and find credible academic based research. For that I thank you.
 
Actually I did not know so i won't pretend to. However, I am no chemist but in fact I do find it very interesting to have some insight on why it does in fact kill mites and their eggs. I will research and use the information you have given me and try and find credible academic based research. For that I thank you.
I edited the post so here it is in full.

Lavender oil is in-fact rated far more toxic than Euromite due to the linalyl acetate and linalool in lavender oil, this is what makes it poisonous to the mites.

The LD50 is higher.

Euromite is a mild naturally derived mite growth regulator which leads to adult mites laying sterile eggs and prevents existing eggs and nymphs from developing. it doesn't kill. just makes sterile the eggs.

its not a broad spectrum poison like lavender oil.

And it works, unlike lavender oil, that myth has been around too long.

Lavender oil cant kill the eggs. you can add a bio oil, but that is fairly damaging to the leaf at the rates needed and spray coverage needed near impossible.

Euromite is semi systemic, so if its sprayed on the suface of the leaf it will get mites under the leaf, Lavender oil relies on direct contact
 

the native

Well-Known Member
yes tinfoilbarb i have been reading a little abt lavender oil it is also not good for soil bacteria.will probably give it a miss jcws602

cheers
 

the native

Well-Known Member
No worries, i do understand, keep up the good work with the grow.
In winter grows mites wont be such a problem, but those eggs will still be there in the thousands next summer. once heat increases and humidity drops.

They will start webbing your buds soon, so to prevent this remove the worst leaves, this might get you though.

Dried buds with dead mites bits, and mite poop included isn't appetizing to me.

cheers
i guess i will have to work it out,its allgd.

Dried buds with dead mites bits, and mite poop included isn't appetizing to me.
I guess thats why im The Native coz that doesnt bother me.haha
 

jcdws602

Well-Known Member
I edited the post so here it is in full.

Lavender oil is in-fact rated far more toxic than Euromite due to the linalyl acetate and linalool in lavender oil, this is what makes it poisonous to the mites.

The LD50 is higher.

Euromite is a mild naturally derived mite growth regulator which leads to adult mites laying sterile eggs and prevents existing eggs and nymphs from developing. it doesn't kill. just makes sterile the eggs.

its not a broad spectrum poison like lavender oil.

And it works, unlike lavender oil, that myth has been around too long.

Lavender oil cant kill the eggs. you can add a bio oil, but that is fairly damaging to the leaf at the rates needed and spray coverage needed near impossible.

Euromite is semi systemic, so if its sprayed on the suface of the leaf it will get mites under the leaf, Lavender oil relies on direct contact
While agree I dont know the exact science behind it i do know that it in fact does kill eggs. I have looked under a microscope and have seen eggs destroyed by lavender after a treatment. They look as if they have melted. It is no myth and you sound as if you are selling a product, are you ? Just because I thanked you doesnt mean I concede and believe what you say just to be clear. I thanked you for giving me some insight on the chemical make up which could answer my questions about the effectiveness of lavender oil. To the op as far as the effect on soil you are not supposed to spray it or drench the the soil at all just the leafs. If you just spray there should be no reason to worry about the microbes in your soil. Try it if you want or don't it your choice but don't be mislead.
 
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