KingBrite 240w 3000K or 3500K for Full cycle?

Eugenios

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
After a lot of research and great advice from you guys, I decided to purchase KingBrite 240W instead of the Mars TS1000. Title says it all. Thank you and God Bless.
 
Eugenios

Eugenios

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Right on. All 3000k right?
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Eugenios said:
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Click to expand...
There's choices of 3000k or 3500k the the reds. Hell, there's even 4000k.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
3000k does great both veg and flower, but 3500k would be a good option if youre not having great control over environment. The extra blue helps with transpiration which means it will do a bit better at lower temps. But extra blue does generally cost you a bit in yield although not that much.

My personal take is to get something balls to the floor flower spectrum, 2700k 90cri and a bit of 660red, and then some blue/uv on a separate dimmer. But you would have tto source and build.it yourself.
 
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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
3000k does great both veg and flower, but 3500k would be a good option if youre not having great control over environment. The extra blue helps with transpiration which means it will do a bit better at lower temps. But extra blue does generally cost you a bit in yield although not that much.

My personal take is to get something balls to the floor flower spectrum, 2700k 90cri and a bit of 660red, and then some blue/uv on a separate dimmer. But you would have tto source and build.it yourself.
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I'm battling the same decision now. 3000k vs 3500k. The 3500k has a higher bin available so it's slightly more efficient. My main concern is flower quality and yield. I only veg for a few weeks before flip but I don't want to target a light for "veg" at the sacrifice of flower yield or quality
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
p0opstlnksal0t said:
I'm battling the same decision now. 3000k vs 3500k. The 3500k has a higher bin available so it's slightly more efficient. My main concern is flower quality and yield. I only veg for a few weeks before flip but I don't want to target a light for "veg" at the sacrifice of flower yield or quality
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3500 is not a veg light, its full cycle. The bin wouldnt mean very much in efficiency boost as per ppf as in lumens.
Id go for 3500k if youre worried that you will have a hard time keeping the heat up while vegging at loow intensity. Tbh youll do fine with either. You can allways add some red mono strips for 3500 or blue/uv to 3000k.
We went with 2700k 90cri and more red on top, but havent done a full flower cycle yet. Vegging seems ook and stable
 
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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
3500 is not a veg light, its full cycle. The bin wouldnt mean very much in efficiency boost as per ppf as in lumens.
Id go for 3500k if youre worried that you will have a hard time keeping the heat up while vegging at loow intensity. Tbh youll do fine with either. You can allways add some red mono strips for 3500 or blue/uv to 3000k.
We went with 2700k 90cri and more red on top, but havent done a full flower cycle yet. Vegging seems ook and stable
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what pushed you guys to go 2700k?
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I built some lights to test for my friends grow op. We tried 3000k and 2700k in 80cri and 2700k and 3700k in 90cri. 2700k was a clear winner, faster and better bud development even if less efficient than all other spectrums tried. I havent seen 3000k 90cri flower but it should also be good. The reason why we had these spectrums to test was a bit coincidental; its what i could get my hands on in 90cri (blux vesta strips). Since then my buddy asked me to only do flower lights in 2700k 90cri.

Ive also seen some test of the @Grow Lights Australia High light boards (2700k 90cri + some near uva and violet). To me it looked better than the other sides (various hlg 80cri boards with added reds and uvs, all sides very maxed out with hydro and high intensity, 1050 ppfd), even if the total spectrums (white + reds) was fairly similar to the highlights, if anything they looked better on paper. So my thinking is: if youre ever flowering with your lights get as much red as you can in your white base spectrum. Later on, instead of adding red to a full cycle or vegg spectrum, add blue and uv for vegg and a little for tricomes. To me this is the easiest approach: balls to the floor flower spectrum plus a wide blue and uv channel on separate driver.
 
tommyinajar

tommyinajar

Well-Known Member
Are you still agreeing with your decision? I had a china 3500k in cart but switched it to a 3000k and am wondering if I should go even lower.
 
D

DukeFluke

Well-Known Member
p0opstlnksal0t said:
I'm battling the same decision now. 3000k vs 3500k. The 3500k has a higher bin available so it's slightly more efficient. My main concern is flower quality and yield. I only veg for a few weeks before flip but I don't want to target a light for "veg" at the sacrifice of flower yield or quality
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Which you will if you choose any higher than 3000K in my opinion.

I use both, I'll never go higher than 3000K again.

I'm swapping out my 4K strips - which make the 50/50 combo with 3000K - for 2700K on my next run
 
tommyinajar

tommyinajar

Well-Known Member
I see you're supposed to watch the temp from dropping to much, why's that?
LOL temp too low?? I haven't even given that as a possibility in a long time with 2000 of HPS going....
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
tommyinajar said:
I see you're supposed to watch the temp from dropping to much, why's that?
LOL temp too low?? I haven't even given that as a possibility in a long time with 2000 of HPS going....
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Hps gives out a lot of infra red radiant heat, enough to practicly never have to worry about low temps during lights on. LED don't have this IR, so in order to get the transpiration up, and to support full light intensity metabolism you need slightly higher temps, + 80F for full flower.
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Hps gives out a lot of infra red radiant heat, enough to practicly never have to worry about low temps during lights on. LED don't have this IR, so in order to get the transpiration up, and to support full light intensity metabolism you need slightly higher temps, + 80F for full flower.
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1615312503186.png

...Typical Bandwidth Wavelength of Radiated Heat of a High Pressure Sodium Lamp...

..at 830 nm...lot of infra red radiant heat... "some" watts "wasted" on 830 nm...lol..

...curious SPD...ehh Wilson...curious peak on FR.... ;-)


















PAR, PPF, YPF, PPFD and DLI







What Wavelengths and Colors do

Typical PPFD and DLI values per crop









More micromoles for less $$

Light Recipes and Grow Spectra

Light Distribution



Advanced Thermal Management for LED Grow Lights

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Saludos desde Tenerife - Islas Canarias
 
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K

kazam420

Member
Hello guys ive bought a kingbrite 240w v3 3500k full spectrum but with no red in it did I make a mistake?

Ended up switching to the version with cree ;)
 
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Star Dog

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I've got a 4k kingbright specifically for my clone tent, if it wasn't for the purpose of keeping them compact I'd have a 3k led.
Ime plants positively thrive with 3k.

Outside of my clone tent super compact growth is pretty much useless to me.
 
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