Manganese def? Organic soil grow

Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
stoobeey said:
I promise the pot is not dry by lights on. Plenty of moisture in soil. I check in the morning before lights off to make sure I'm not going to come back to a plant dying if thirst.. I used to wait till they dropped bc I used to over water a lot and had lots of gnats.. virtually no issues these days. There maybe 10 on the paper from like 3 runs
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You need to learn how to water. Plants like consistency. 5-10% water by volume of soil. I water 5% every other day and closer to 10% the other days.
 
steve870

steve870

Well-Known Member
radiant Rudy said:
when you notice a deficiency you've already screwed up. The purpose of a sap test is to identify excess or deficiency BEFORE a visual symptom is presented

Are you saying you test the leaves but you dont soil test?
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sorry i lost track of your bullshit talk.

First answer: No we are not screwed, you must know about manganese and magnesium foliar applications? it's even approved in organic production where it's lacking in animal feed.

Two: i never said we dont test soil, we test soil every year. These analysis varies during the season so it's important to always take them in the same period of the year.With that being said. In soils prone to leaching or immobilisation ( mainly in sandy soils with high concentrations of Aluminium/iron hydroxydes) some deficiencies might come up during the growing season. The quickest and easiest way to determine which element is lacking is to take leaves samples. We can do corrections then. Sometimes we lay down barely enough lime because potatoes in high soil ph are prône to rot( i dont know whats the name in english sorry) so deficiencies happen
 
S

stoobeey

Well-Known Member
getogrow said:
Well going by your other plants ....its just a picky pheno. She was way overfed so im assuming the soil is all outta wack and its still not recovered.
I would worry more about keeping the new ones healthy and green at this point and let the ugly one just finish out. Its almost too late to even try to fix that plant. it will just go into foxtail mode if you were to fix it.
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Yeah it's more about learning (aside from feeding more often in such a small pot) about the soil and where I lack food so I can educate myself on all this. She'll make it to the end like my other catastrophes over last 4cyears of this hobby. I have a clone in a 4" so I get another shot at the strain.

The 2 autos look great, they were all yellowed up by now last runs (the jack auto that's finished yellowed to fast. Not enough N for sure) so I have made progress.
I've got 2 maui's, 1 g13, 1 tangie haze, 1 valley vix f2(non fem seed) lined up in veg. I'll plant some more autos like in a month
 
S

stoobeey

Well-Known Member
Hollatchaboy said:
You need to learn how to water. Plants like consistency. 5-10% water by volume of soil. I water 5% every other day and closer to 10% the other days.
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That's the volume I water in (which usually gives me zero run off or if any it's pulled back in shortly). A friend of mine had me change to this habit last year and I've had mich better growth, health, and less fungus gnats bc of it.
5% is my usual, 10% on heavy drinker's
 
radiant Rudy

radiant Rudy

Well-Known Member
steve870 said:
sorry i lost track of your bullshit talk.

First answer: No we are not screwed, you must know about manganese and magnesium foliar applications? it's even approved in organic production where it's lacking in animal feed.

Two: i never said we dont test soil, we test soil every year. These analysis varies during the season so it's important to always take them in the same period of the year.With that being said. In soils prone to leaching or immobilisation ( mainly in sandy soils with high concentrations of Aluminium/iron hydroxydes) some deficiencies might come up during the growing season. The quickest and easiest way to determine which element is lacking is to take leaves samples. We can do corrections then. Sometimes we lay down barely enough lime because potatoes in high soil ph are prône to rot( i dont know whats the name in english sorry)
Click to expand...

Yo, mr potato


If you think this statement "when you notice a deficiency you've already screwed up. The purpose of a sap test is to identify excess or deficiency BEFORE a visual symptom is presented " is "bullshit" you're as fucking witless and gullible as the rest of these slobs.

wait, you lay down lime because high pH is a problem?
when high pH is a problem and Ca is needed, the basic Rx is to apply CaSo4 and avoid raising pH making other metals unavailable.

Bro please keep it real. Don't front as if you are some kind of advanced farming prodigy
 
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steve870

steve870

Well-Known Member
radiant Rudy said:
If you think this statement "when you notice a deficiency you've already screwed up. The purpose of a sap test is to identify excess or deficiency BEFORE a visual symptom is presented " is "bullshit" you're as fucking witless and gullible as the rest of these slobs.

wait, you lay down lime because high pH is a problem?
when high pH is a problem and Ca is needed, the basic Rx is to apply CaSo4 and avoid raising pH making other metals unavailable.

Bro please keep it real and don't front like some kind of advanced farming prodigy
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barely enough lime. that means we dont put high amounts, just enough to be alright in the rotation. If we put too much ph will be too high for potatoes
 
radiant Rudy

radiant Rudy

Well-Known Member
steve870 said:
barely enough lime. that means we dont put high amounts, just enough to be alright in the rotation. If we put too much ph will be too high for potatoes
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id like to see your soil test. Ive not heard of Al issues when soil is above 6pH. Admittedly i dont grow potatoes but i have Amish buds growing spuds, not in sandy or Fe loaded soil. they harvest amazing, NYC premium restaurant sought after level taters.
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
stoobeey said:
I promise the pot is not dry by lights on. Plenty of moisture in soil. I check in the morning before lights off to make sure I'm not going to come back to a plant dying if thirst.. I used to wait till they dropped bc I used to over water a lot and had lots of gnats.. virtually no issues these days. There maybe 10 on the paper from like 3 runs
Click to expand...
i already replied to this one before that fool stole your thread trying to make 16 bucks.
When i first seen the picture , it was really blurry , now i see it fine and its not underwatering. its too much food causing lockouts of other foods. With too much light for her, ect....
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
stoobeey said:
That's the volume I water in (which usually gives me zero run off or if any it's pulled back in shortly). A friend of mine had me change to this habit last year and I've had mich better growth, health, and less fungus gnats bc of it.
5% is my usual, 10% on heavy drinker's
Click to expand...
I'll do close to 10% every other day, just to be sure the bottom of the pot gets wet. I use smart pots so they dry out pretty quick.
 
radiant Rudy

radiant Rudy

Well-Known Member
getogrow said:
i already replied to this one before that fool stole your thread trying to make 16 bucks.
When i first seen the picture , it was really blurry , now i see it fine and its not underwatering. its too much food causing lockouts of other foods. With too much light for her, ect....
Click to expand...
Just reading the watery crap that drops from this simple slobs' wordhole is enough to ruin your grow.
 
steve870

steve870

Well-Known Member
radiant Rudy said:
id like to see your soil test. Ive not heard of Al issues when soil is above 6pH. Admittedly i dont grow potatoes but i have Amish buds growing spuds, not in sandy or Fe loaded soil. they harvest amazing, NYC premium restaurant sought after level taters.
Click to expand...
critical ph for Al2- is 5.5
 
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