PrettyHate
Active Member
good luck man
reeffermadness-the one thing that has worried me about sticking the dwc unit into another tub with cold water around it...is the humidity problem that I would encounter...did you ever think about that? Just throwing out things for you to consider and etc.
I have insulated ducting set up because of the larger air blower attempt and I would like to buy a cheaper quieter small fan that would attach to ducting that is 4 inches wide. Dose the fan really have to be suspended from the ceiling? The one I returned needed to be, because it got so hot.My inline cfm fan I got from home depot hardly makes any noise. Cost about 25 bucks. Insulated ducting might muffle the sound too.
See that girl up there? PrettyHate, with that bouquet of buds? What she is holding was part of my first successful crop. <.< For some reason that strain must of been tougher or this new rez is causing me to get different results... I grew that in a 10 gallon rez that didn't get as hot from the light. But it was quite a bitch to dump in my tub, by myself most of the time. Until that wonderful PrettyHate came along to help me.good luck man
geez. this drama just gets worse and worse. good luck.
i don't know anything about hydro, but the first thing i thought of when i saw your roots was: algae. is there any way light is getting to your roots? i hope you find the solution and write in. i'm interested.
Ok heres whats up.
You have root rot, Pythium to be exact.
"Root rot" is a common waterborne disease that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). Root rot is also known as "damping-off" in seeds, seedlings and clones.
Pythium can rapidly infect crops in vegetative and flowering stages. Damage includes strain infection, reduced yields, and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in high-density dwc / hydroponic / aeroponic systems, as these recirculating systems provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of pythium spores. One infected plant can quickly spread rot to all plants if the system has an interconected irrigation system.
Pythium typically thrives in oxygen-poor (anaerobic), warm (75-85 F), and poorly circulated nutrient solutions. Heavy clay soils with poor drainage are high-risk soil planting sites.
Sources of infection:
Unsterilized tools and equipment
Unfiltered water
Dead roots from previous crops
Infected plant material (i.e. clones taken from infected moms)
Symptoms
Initial:
Yellowed, droopy and wilting leaves (possibly exhibiting mineral deficiencies). Leaf curl over - ram's horns' - roots are unable to uptake nutrients at that strength because they are infected.
pH becomes more acidic (pH should rise slowly in a healthy system)
'Burnt' root tips (browning tips may also be a result of light exposure, or over fertilization)
Reduced water consumption and rising nutrient strength
Brown colored roots. (Note: GH "Micro" will stain roots brown as well; stain darkens @ ppm's. Healthy root should be white or slightly tan)
Advanced:
Brown and slimy roots with a slight to strong rotting odor. Plant may appear healthy.
Reddish and swollen root collar, becoming blackened over time. Eventually the plant will fall over as all connecting tissue will have been 'eaten away'.
Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly
Emergency action
1. Hydrogen Peroxide root dunk
-Remove each plant from system, snip off diseased roots.
-Dip/swish each plant and container into a strong H2O2 solution, until diseased roots have been removed. Repeat as required.
2. Sterilize equipment
All equipment should be disinfected (including hoses and pots, etc) with bleach solution or 10% h2o2 solution before plants are reintroduced into the system. Rinse well.
3. Add root rot medication. Add anti-pythium additives, Vitamin B1, and fresh nutrients to a sterilized reservoir at a lower strength, at cooler temps. Reduce light levels. After a week or so, after new roots appear, add some root boost additives.
Roots with root rot do not heal, you will never eradicate that problem from the plant once its there, you can only control it and kinda keep it at bay.
Before your next grow make sure to properly sterilize everything, and get all the temps and conditions better
What kind of root enhancer would you recommend?I think your best bet is to keep it where it is, and use the preventitive measure and fixes to keep it at bay, because you cant get rid of that disease its going to be better to keep it somewhere you can keep an eye on it, and watch how the cures make it better, my worry is that if you put it in soil you wont see if its getting any better or not until you see things either get worse on the leaves or get better. Keep going the way you have and bath her with the hydrogen peroxide and prevent the roots from getting worse and try and help new roots develop by getting rid of the dead ones and promoting new growth, possibly with a root enhancer.
What kind of root enhancer would you recommend?
If you go with this though, make sure that you also get yourself a de-humidifier, the ac unit is going to cool the air and add moisture, the nutrient tank stands a good chance of being warmer than the air and this is quite likely to increase humidity.If you couldn't provide proper ventillation to start with, why didn't you just go with CFLs? That's what I'm doing...
I can't afford a HID reflector w/ballast and all that expensive shit right now, so I put together some square aluminum tubing, drilled some holes, screwed some screws, and for like 135 bucks I made the most insane CFL setup, bulbs and all. If you're gonna go HID, DAMN good ventillation is really essential. I posted a thread on this earlier but I'll tell ya, K-mart and Target (that I know for sure of) has these little 5,000 BTU window A/C units with built in thermometer, timer and temperature settings for only about 100 bucks, sounds like one of these would solve most of your temperature issues. Fresh generated cool air, all you need for a good closet grow with a 400w hid, but make sure you split the air to go into the HID bulb as well as toward the plants.
Good luck with finishing your grow, PG
Thanks I will see if its in my local shop if not I will order it.
I didn't get CFL fans because I didn't know about them until someone mentioned them and showed me what they look like on this thread.If you couldn't provide proper ventillation to start with, why didn't you just go with CFLs? That's what I'm doing...
I can't afford a HID reflector w/ballast and all that expensive shit right now, so I put together some square aluminum tubing, drilled some holes, screwed some screws, and for like 135 bucks I made the most insane CFL setup, bulbs and all. If you're gonna go HID, DAMN good ventillation is really essential. I posted a thread on this earlier but I'll tell ya, K-mart and Target (that I know for sure of) has these little 5,000 BTU window A/C units with built in thermometer, timer and temperature settings for only about 100 bucks, sounds like one of these would solve most of your temperature issues. Fresh generated cool air, all you need for a good closet grow with a 400w hid, but make sure you split the air to go into the HID bulb as well as toward the plants.
Good luck with finishing your grow, PG
I can't afford an AC right now and I heard they leak water out the back because they are suppose to be mounted on a window sill. That won't go down with me into the other side of my closet. o.oIf you go with this though, make sure that you also get yourself a de-humidifier, the ac unit is going to cool the air and add moisture, the nutrient tank stands a good chance of being warmer than the air and this is quite likely to increase humidity.
You could consider getting the little lunch bags and filling them with some ice cubes tie it up and keep it in the corner well away from the roots if this is possible.
Either that or change your res more often and use cold water, that way it will take a little longer for the water temps to get up.
There are also those little freezer blocks that you keep in cool bags for drinks on a hot day.
Ideally the temp of the water should be lower than the air temp.