twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
What are you talking about? What's not true?
New to this. Help me out here old pros!
- Thread starter Dazed-N-confused78
- Start date
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
A intake fan is a good idea to make a more efficient system.
Passive intake only works up to a certain CFM, my 8" AC infinity easily maxs out my tent, and starts crushing it. This in turn makes my exhaust work harder, louder, and move a lot less air.
My 6" intake, along with passive intake ports, alleviates those issues really well
No its not necessary, but it helps alot. Whether it's a 8" exhaust and 6" intake, or a 6" exhaust and 4" intake.
Dazed-N-confused78
Active Member
Yes. I like that. I have the 6 inch inside and i am going to do a 4 inch outside.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
My 6" AC Infinity in my 5x5 has never had a need to run above setting 5 with one flap open for passive intake. I guess that's why I'm confused why someone would need to run an active intake with another fan for a small space. It's just not needed.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Not sure, my tent is extreamly full so I need a bit more air movement than most, but I still needed a 8" exhaust for my 4x4
Of course with all the flaps open, my tent was still being crushed. So I slapped in my 6" intake. This also made my exhaust run much quieter.
Moving from a 6" exhaust to 8", plus the intake, dropped my RH from 65% to 55% in the tent. Plus lots of air movement through my scrog. Not much more I could do since the lung room was down to 35% RH
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
A 4x4 tent doesn't require an 8 inch exhaust, lmao. If you want air movement put a fan in there. Intake and exhaust fans are for exchanging air not for air movement.
You're probably running your exhaust at 10 huh?
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Got a 12" oscillating fan at canopy level, three 6" fans under the canopy, and a fourth 6" fan at the top of the tent.
I'm not letting the tent sit at 65% RH, I did what I did and it worked.
At 45% RH today.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
Buying a larger ventilation system off the bat costs a small amount more $ than buying a smaller system, having it work harder, and louder, than having to buy the larger system anyway because the smaller wasn't cutting it
Dazed-N-confused78
Active Member
For my 5x5 i would like to be able to run my tent with the fans as low as possible. Intake on 2 and exhaust on 1. To create that positive pressure. Am i right on that? And then exhaust out of the tent and out the window thru a window fan. With of course a fan blowing air inside the tent.
Attachments
Last edited:
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
No you want negative pressure, this ensures no air escapes your tent except through your carbon filter.
Exhaust should always be stronger than intake.
This will naturally happen though as it's easier to extract air than it is to blow it in.
It will also naturally happen if you have a 4" intake and a 6" exhaust
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
As I said intake/exhaust setup is for exchanging air, not controlling your environment. Use a dehumidifier to lower RH. Telling other people the wrong way to do things isn't a great idea. Glad your setup worked out for you though.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
I had told you my lung room was sitting at 35% RH, running two dehumidifiers. (70 pint per day and a 30 pint per day)
Any other suggestions?
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
My point is that buying a 8" exhaust and a 6" intake is like $75 more than buying a 6" and 4"
Might as well spring for the larger system, then run it lower. It will be more efficient, and quieter. You also have the option for more air flow if you ever needed it.
That's my opinion, I've always wanted to be more safe than sorry
Dazed-N-confused78
Active Member
The rh in my tent is 56% with no water in the 50gal resevoir yet. And no led light on.
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Plants breathe ALOT, they will be the main source of humidity.
The bigger they are, and the more leafs, the more water that will be transpired into the air.
This makes things alittle tricky becuase in early veg, the plants like it much more humid. But they aren't breathing a lot, so you have to sometimes add a humidifier.
But in flower, when they're huge and want it almost dry as possible, they breathe a ton and release a ton of moisture into the air.
It becomes a balancing act, research VPD and how to achieve the best environment for your plants.
veg VPD should be 0.7 - 1.0
Flower the VPD should be 1.0 - 1.3
Dazed-N-confused78
Active Member
How do you all feel about the organic CO2 bags?
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
Pointless
Indoors, CO2 will naturally be pretty high. That's good enough for the average grower.
If you want to get real, optimal levels of CO2, those bags are unlikely to get you there, and not hold it consistently. In addition, plants will not grow any different with CO2 enrichment, unless every other parameter is maximized.
Maximum light
Near perfect nutrient availability
Optimal temps, humidity, and VPD
In addition, CO2 enrichment is a waste of money unless you seal your grow room. No air exchange in, or out. This means you will need some heavy duty dehumidifiers, and a dual hose AC (or other type of AC that uses a separate loop for cool the radiator, and cooling the air. This is so no CO2 is lost through the unit)
Lastly, the bags aren't enough more often than not. You will want a CO2 monitor, that hooks up to a 20lb CO2 tank
Then after dialing in all of that, CO2 can give huge benefits.
Dazed-N-confused78
Active Member
Gotcha! Too much for me just yet. Maybe when i have my own property.