need help!

Millo

Well-Known Member
Depends, if you have a living soil it will damage the benifitial bacteria.
Reminds me of this
 
thx for all the reply’s.
i will def start checking ph and hopefully see improvement.
if it is the ph causing the problem and i have nute lockout, do i need to flush now? or will this hurt the organisms in the soil?
 

canna_420

Well-Known Member
thx for all the reply’s.
i will def start checking ph and hopefully see improvement.
if it is the ph causing the problem and i have nute lockout, do i need to flush now? or will this hurt the organisms in the soil?
Just leave a bucket on the side for a cpl hours.
 

canna_420

Well-Known Member
cheers bud, thats encouraging.
it was all going beautifully to this issue popped up, and it’s def stunted growth but all trial and error
You can avoid ph lock out by running 30% run off.

Biobizz + UK water is normally 6.3-6.6 ish after mixing.

Plus you should be following the schedule for biobizz.

Water being softer than 0.3 are low in Mag so will need to use half/full dose.

When I run hydro I have to buffer my water with cal/mag/silica at 0.3 to avoid calcium deficiency and pH fluctuations.

Epsom salt doesn't have calcium it's magnesium and sulphur. So might not always fix the problems. I find it easier to just use a cal/mag. It's mineral regardless of organic or not because they are mineral deposits.

Old growth will never regreen wait for it to fall of or at the point you can take it without any force.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
Once you are already in flower I would suggest to look one more time at your plants and ask yourself if this is really magnesium...? To my noobish eye this is typical potassium. BTW tap water contains calcium and magnesium, but these are in form of insoluble compounds. That means plants are not able to uptake Ca and Mg in form of carbonate or bicarbonate. And as being said you are NOT growing organics, light mix is just soilless potting mix.
 

Millo

Well-Known Member
You can avoid ph lock out by running 30% run off.

Biobizz + UK water is normally 6.3-6.6 ish after mixing.

Plus you should be following the schedule for biobizz.

Water being softer than 0.3 are low in Mag so will need to use half/full dose.

When I run hydro I have to buffer my water with cal/mag/silica at 0.3 to avoid calcium deficiency and pH fluctuations.

Epsom salt doesn't have calcium it's magnesium and sulphur. So might not always fix the problems. I find it easier to just use a cal/mag. It's mineral regardless of organic or not because they are mineral deposits.

Old growth will never regreen wait for it to fall of or at the point you can take it without any force.
So you're saying that if I water with plain water till 30% runoff ( directly proportional to the medium container ), and THEN give water with nutriens, I will not have pH lockouts?

I'm asking because my water pH is 7 but I've always had Mg def or even Ca or P even though I'm following the nute chart and always give CalMag for prevention. Even sprayed foliar epsom and didn't help.
 

canna_420

Well-Known Member
So you're saying that if I water with plain water till 30% runoff ( directly proportional to the medium container ), and THEN give water with nutriens, I will not have pH lockouts?

I'm asking because my water pH is 7 but I've always had Mg def or even Ca or P even though I'm following the nute chart and always give CalMag for prevention. Even sprayed foliar epsom and didn't help.
Can do that with nutes.

That's out of the tap 7?
If you are getting nute problems with added cal/mag it's probably environmental.
Heat being a big factor.
 

Millo

Well-Known Member
Can do that with nutes.

That's out of the tap 7?
If you are getting nute problems with added cal/mag it's probably environmental.
Heat being a big factor.
7 out of the tap

I recently added a second light to my 2.3"x2.3" tent so heat definitely went up ( around 27C - 80F ). I'm having a 4" fan blowing on them to cool them off.

But I think the soil/nutes are a big problem ( in the sense that I'm not following the right schedule maybe ). Either I will follow nutes on the chart ( been giving only 1/4 of advised dose ) OR maybe mix the LightMix 50-50 with another soil?

I'm seriously desperate, all my autos have had the same issue. Healthy as fuck during veg, and then Fan leaves yellowing ( and later falling off ) just as soon as the plant enters flowering stage. What's worse is that if left untreated it affects sugar leaves too and that sucks.
 

kodak91

Active Member
7 out of the tap

I recently added a second light to my 2.3"x2.3" tent so heat definitely went up ( around 27C - 80F ). I'm having a 4" fan blowing on them to cool them off.

But I think the soil/nutes are a big problem ( in the sense that I'm not following the right schedule maybe ). Either I will follow nutes on the chart ( been giving only 1/4 of advised dose ) OR maybe mix the LightMix 50-50 with another soil?

I'm seriously desperate, all my autos have had the same issue. Healthy as fuck during veg, and then Fan leaves yellowing ( and later falling off ) just as soon as the plant enters flowering stage. What's worse is that if left untreated it affects sugar leaves too and that sucks.
What dosage of preventive calmag are you adding?

I personally dont like flushing in biobizz soil... Compacts the soil too much and its not good for the micro-life inside it...

If you always have this problem, you need to go back to basics and check your environment (messed up RH% might cause nutrient issues).. Overwatering also causes nutrient issues.. Not checking PH and feeding below 6.2ph will lock Cal-Mag out...

My tapwater is soft and whenever i mix my biobizz solution at 1/2 recommended strength i always have to use some biobizz ph UP to adjust to roughly 6.5ph.

OR maybe mix the LightMix 50-50 with another soil?
I use 70% allmix and a 30% lightmix top layer.

When i started growing i used to have this problems too. Checking ph and only watering 5-10% of pot volume is what worked for me... Ever since i started doing those 2 things, problems are gone... I also follow biobizz chart at 1/4 recommended and feed a small preventive calmag dose...

Don't get desperate, problems happen, the plant will bounce back. Live and learn.
 

Millo

Well-Known Member
What dosage of preventive calmag are you adding?

I personally dont like flushing in biobizz soil... Compacts the soil too much and its not good for the micro-life inside it...

If you always have this problem, you need to go back to basics and check your environment (messed up RH% might cause nutrient issues).. Overwatering also causes nutrient issues.. Not checking PH and feeding below 6.2ph will lock Cal-Mag out...

My tapwater is soft and whenever i mix my biobizz solution at 1/2 recommended strength i always have to use some biobizz ph UP to adjust to roughly 6.5ph.



I use 70% allmix and a 30% lightmix top layer.

When i started growing i used to have this problems too. Checking ph and only watering 5-10% of pot volume is what worked for me... Ever since i started doing those 2 things, problems are gone... I also follow biobizz chart at 1/4 recommended and feed a small preventive calmag dose...

Don't get desperate, problems happen, the plant will bounce back. Live and learn.
I'm using 0.2ml/L CalMag.

RH depends on the weather outside. In fall/winter I've hit about 80-70% RH. But in spring/summer it goes down to 30-20% RH.

I was always against flushing, but I'm so desperate I'd try everything lol
But if you advise against it, I won't flush.

I only pH'd the tap water, never pH'd the nutes water. Maybe that's the problem.

I don't think I overwater. I always wait for top inch of soil to be dry and the pot to feel lighter when raised.
I then proceed giving 500ml of plain water to wet the medium ( till some droplets of runoff ) and then water again with the nutrients, 500ml still for a total of 1L of water per watering. I do it this way every 2-3 days.
 

Millo

Well-Known Member
This is a problem! You need to measure ph after adding nutes, not before. The nutes usually lower your ph.
Thanks! Will try it this way, hoping I can fix it lol
So basically, after I pH'd the nutrient water, I need to add pH up or down to bring it back to 6.5 - 7 before giving it to the plant, right?
 

kodak91

Active Member
Thanks! Will try it this way, hoping I can fix it lol
So basically, after I pH'd the nutrient water, I need to add pH up or down to bring it back to 6.5 - 7 before giving it to the plant, right?
Right. Between 6.2 and 6.8 is the ideal range. I like to aim for 6.5ph to allow some margin of error.
 

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canna_420

Well-Known Member
If you only been feeding 1/4 strength that's probably your issue.

They look big enough for full feed.
 
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