Ac infinity cloudline T6 controller stops working when 1000w HPS turns on.

[ZellzGarden]

Hello all so I have a conundrum here.

My T6 works perfectly fine until the HPS clicks on, The temp controls stop working and it no longer displays the temp and humidity.
I thought this was an issue with the controller so got in touch with support and replaced it but the issue is still occurring.

I moved the controller as far away from the ballast (electronic) as I could to no evail as well.

The HPS is on its own plug albeit still connected to junction box but I don't believe it's a wattage issue as a 1500w heater was running before on the same power strip as the fan with no issue.

I took a couple photos to show what's happening (i couldn't find a video format that would work) hopefully someone here knows what's going on as ACI support is as stumped as me.

 

[Learning1234]

Where’s your temp/RH probe located?

 

[ZellzGarden]

Where’s your temp/RH probe located?

Originally under the light but I've moved it outside the tent and into the veg space if the HPS is on its still not displaying temp or humidity.

 

[ilovereggae]

plug the hps into a kill a watt meter to see what it's actually pulling from the wall.

plug one of them into a different circuit and see if the problem remains

 

[ZellzGarden]

plug the hps into a kill a watt meter to see what it's actually pulling from the wall.

plug one of them into a different circuit and see if the problem remains

I'll have to get in touch with a buddy that has one.
So being in my garage I only have access to a junction box with 4 plugs that splits off into a couple plugs on the ceiling for shop lights, I have the HPS plugged into a surge protector plugged into one of those plugs sitting on top of the tent.
However I can try running the fan it's own extension chord from the junction box instead of the timer/surge protector it's plugged into now.

 

[ilovereggae]

I'll have to get in touch with a buddy that has one.
So being in my garage I only have access to a junction box with 4 plugs that splits off into a couple plugs on the ceiling for shop lights, I have the HPS plugged into a surge protector plugged into one of those plugs sitting on top of the tent.
However I can try running the fan it's own extension chord from the junction box instead of the timer/surge protector it's plugged into now.

same junction box will still be same circuit. I want to see if maybe there's not enough current or some kind of overload happening. can you get a longer cord and run from a seperate circuit inside the house just to test?

also fan shouldn't be on a timer imho. you have the controller to set on/off temp/rh triggers which you want available all the time. unless you are running a sealed room and cycling it on/off at set intervals?

 

[ZellzGarden]

same junction box will still be same circuit. I want to see if maybe there's not enough current or some kind of overload happening. can you get a longer cord and run from a seperate circuit inside the house just to test?

also fan shouldn't be on a timer imho. you have the controller to set on/off temp/rh triggers which you want available all the time. unless you are running a sealed room and cycling it on/off at set intervals?

I'll have to try that I'd assume not as my house only has 2 15amp breakers (the rest are 20 or larger) and I'd really hope the 15s don't go to the garage. (Which should be enough for the about 1500 collective watts of everything (3 inline fans, 1 300w led, humidifier that wasn't even running and the HPS)
before I turned the light on I tested the fan controls with a 1500w heater plugged in and still no issue.
I have a 600w ballast and bulb laying around maybe I'll try that

But I've also turned everything else off on that circuit except the light and fan to no avail so don't know if it would be worth running the extension chord.

Edit: Also should of clarified the timer/surge protector has outlets that are always on, the timer is just for the lights and a small fan in the veg space

 

[Tracker]

I have not used that type of controller before. These are a couple of questions that cross my mind for trouble shooting.

Power still gets to the fan being controlled? You've confirmed that the fan will run?

It looks like the controller powers on, but there is no readout of the measured value?

Is there any wireless communication in the system? Or everything is hardwired?

It's possible this is an EMI problem. The ballast might emit too much noisy trash which overwhelms the very low power signal that the controller is looking for. If it's all hardwired with no wireless comms, and if EMI is whats happening, you might be able to install a ferrite choke on the sensor wire and/or on the wire between the controller and the fan to block the EMI trash.

If there is wireless comm involved, then the only way to avoid the noise is to move the source of noise farther away from the Tx/Rx parts of the system.

You can do a test to check if there is a lot of noise by using speakers connected to the sound source with a long wire, at least a few feet. Position them in the area where you are having a problem. Listen to something with ballast off, then listen with ballast on. See if you hear a difference. That difference is the EMI from the ballast coupling to the speaker wire. You might be able to hear it in an AM radio too.

 

[ZellzGarden]

I have not used that type of controller before. These are a couple of questions that cross my mind for trouble shooting.

Power still gets to the fan being controlled? You've confirmed that the fan will run?

It looks like the controller powers on, but there is no readout of the measured value?

Is there any wireless communication in the system? Or everything is hardwired?

It's possible this is an EMI problem. The ballast might emit too much noisy trash which overwhelms the very low power signal that the controller is looking for. If it's all hardwired with no wireless comms, and if EMI is whats happening, you might be able to install a ferrite choke on the sensor wire and/or on the wire between the controller and the fan to block the EMI trash.

If there is wireless comm involved, then the only way to avoid the noise is to move the source of noise farther away from the Tx/Rx parts of the system.

You can do a test to check if there is a lot of noise by using speakers connected to the sound source with a long wire, at least a few feet. Position them in the area where you are having a problem. Listen to something with ballast off, then listen with ballast on. See if you hear a difference. That difference is the EMI from the ballast coupling to the speaker wire. You might be able to hear it in an AM radio too.

So this was my original thought I just didn't have the expertise to put it into words so thank you for that.

It's all hardwired and power does get to the fan the only issue is the temp/rh probe not working in turn throwing off the automation function, but the ballast is like a foot outside the tent and does emit some noise granted it has fans in it I definitely notice what is a slight electrical hum. It's an older ballast I got for free, you think switching it could help too or try to insulate the wires before I waste money?

 

[Tracker]

So this was my original thought I just didn't have the expertise to put it into words so thank you for that.

It's all hardwired and power does get to the fan the only issue is the temp/rh probe not working in turn throwing off the automation function, but the ballast is like a foot outside the tent and does emit some noise granted it has fans in it I definitely notice what is a slight electrical hum. It's an older ballast I got for free, you think switching it could help too or try to insulate the wires before I waste money?

If the problem is an EM noise issue, it's possible a modern ballast engineered to minimize the EM trash noise it creates would solve the problem.

Try running a long extension cord from another circuit over to power the fan and controller, with everything set up in the same location. See if you get the same situation. If you do still get the same problem, then I would guess that you are having EMI coupling from the ballast/lamp onto the wires of the fan/controller. If everything works fine with the test setup, then the trash is coming over the wires of the local power cords, which is possible too.

 

[Learning1234]

I’ve run these in a room with 1000W DEs and had no problems, so I doubt it has to due with interference from the ballast.

 

[ZellzGarden]

I’ve run these in a room with 1000W DEs and had no problems, so I doubt it has to due with interference from the ballast.

Well I just ran everything I had including a 1500w heater and no issues not even a flickering light (all the same plug), flipped on the HPS temp/rh readings cut out again. I unplugged everything but the HPS and the T6 and still cut out so it has to be interference with the bulb or ballast next step unplug hood and turn just the ballast on and see if it happens.

 

[Learning1234]

Maybe it’s a cheaper ballast than the ones I use or something. I didn’t think interference was even really an issue with most of today’s ballasts. Weird. Sounds like you may need a better ballast.

 

[ZellzGarden]

If the problem is an EM noise issue, it's possible a modern ballast engineered to minimize the EM trash noise it creates would solve the problem.

Try running a long extension cord from another circuit over to power the fan and controller, with everything set up in the same location. See if you get the same situation. If you do still get the same problem, then I would guess that you are having EMI coupling from the ballast/lamp onto the wires of the fan/controller. If everything works fine with the test setup, then the trash is coming over the wires of the local power cords, which is possible too.

Maybe it’s a cheaper ballast than the ones I use or something. I didn’t think interference was even really an issue with most of today’s ballasts. Weird. Sounds like you may need a better ballast.

It's definitely lower quality Chinese shit cause I can't even find the brand lol.

 

[Learning1234]

Ohhhhh, there you go. Ha. Snag yourself a better ballast and I’m guessing the problem goes away. The other person answering seems to understand electrical stuff better than myself though, so I’m sure they’ll chime in with better info.

 

[ComfortCreator]

If the problem is an EM noise issue, it's possible a modern ballast engineered to minimize the EM trash noise it creates would solve the problem.

Try running a long extension cord from another circuit over to power the fan and controller, with everything set up in the same location. See if you get the same situation. If you do still get the same problem, then I would guess that you are having EMI coupling from the ballast/lamp onto the wires of the fan/controller. If everything works fine with the test setup, then the trash is coming over the wires of the local power cords, which is possible too.

This is your issue.

I am not an electrical engineer, and there are some here so they may supersede my comments.

Those controllers run quiet by reading the electrical current, a PWM controller i think?

They read the interference and adjust to minimize noise.

When your ballast turns on, the change in electrical current is causing the controller to not be able to run. Again, I dont know why in your case, but it's clear as day the pwm control is the fault with the ballast.

As I checked I see they now offer a remote control controller at ac??? Flipping dream if I can adjust speed remotely!

 

[ZellzGarden]

If the problem is an EM noise issue, it's possible a modern ballast engineered to minimize the EM trash noise it creates would solve the problem.

Try running a long extension cord from another circuit over to power the fan and controller, with everything set up in the same location. See if you get the same situation. If you do still get the same problem, then I would guess that you are having EMI coupling from the ballast/lamp onto the wires of the fan/controller. If everything works fine with the test setup, then the trash is coming over the wires of the local power cords, which is possible too.

Okay will have to try this next, is there any reason the "trash" wouldn't be there before the light gets turned on and is after I turn it on and if it is the wires instead of the ballast should I be worried that the 1000w is stressing those wires and drop down in wattage?
Thanks for the lengthy explanation btw would of never figured local wiring could cause some kind of interference.

 

[ZellzGarden]

Ohhhhh, there you go. Ha. Snag yourself a better ballast and I’m guessing the problem goes away. The other person answering seems to understand electrical stuff better than myself though, so I’m sure they’ll chime in with better info.

Yeah I just grabbed a vivosun hopefully it at least gets through this run, I plan on going leds after this run just didn't want to invest 1500 on a light just yet lol

 

[ZellzGarden]

This is your issue.

I am not an electrical engineer, and there are some here so they may supersede my comments.

Those controllers run quiet by reading the electrical current, a PWM controller i think?

They read the interference and adjust to minimize noise.

When your ballast turns on, the change in electrical current is causing the controller to not be able to run. Again, I dont know why in your case, but it's clear as day the pwm control is the fault with the ballast.

As I checked I see they now offer a remote control controller at ac??? Flipping dream if I can adjust speed remotely!

Ordered a new ballast that'll be here tomorrow so hopefully that squares this whole issue away lol thanks for the help fam. I think I'm going to try the fan on a separate circuit still just to be safe but I stressed that circuit pretty Damm hard earlier and still worked perfectly fine.

 

[AEOV]

Hello all so I have a conundrum here.

My T6 works perfectly fine until the HPS clicks on, The temp controls stop working and it no longer displays the temp and humidity.
I thought this was an issue with the controller so got in touch with support and replaced it but the issue is still occurring.

I moved the controller as far away from the ballast (electronic) as I could to no evail as well.

The HPS is on its own plug albeit still connected to junction box but I don't believe it's a wattage issue as a 1500w heater was running before on the same power strip as the fan with no issue.

I took a couple photos to show what's happening (i couldn't find a video format that would work) hopefully someone here knows what's going on as ACI support is as stumped as me.

I had the same issue, if you put your controller on a UPS to clean and power interference from the ballast it will start working again. You can test this by plugging the controller into an extension cord and put it on a different circuit (breaker). I hope this work for you..