Dr. Bruce Bugbee method: NASA technique on Mars etc.

F2GD

Member
I am not doing hydro, I am doing soil-less. There is no recirculation, it is hand watering. I am not using botanicare Cal-mag plus I am using Advanced nutrients Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra which already has the micronutrients in it. This is all for super small bonsai grows in Ikea ekets, not a massive plant. The water usage is well under 1L a day and I'll be mixing 2L at a time. Your methods for recirculation are fine, especially for larger scale, but this is nano scale stuff
 

F2GD

Member

do you a favor, keep it simple and buy real fertilizer for soft water .. not calmag bulshi
This is designed for water thats under a pH of 7.5, my water is basic at 8.5 but has a low ec. I am basically making a home brewed system of this using 20-10-20 for my major nutes and a predone mix for the cal mag fe and 20 amino acids
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
i think you go wrong way with the limestone

0.14mS out of the tap is soft water. most nutrients are formulated for hard water (0.4-0.5mS).

bugbee's method is recirculative hydroponic. you need to get the calcium diluted in the soltution, not in the medium.
what you need to use with your soft water is a soft water formulation


for exemple ghe floraseries "soft water".. ionic soft water

personnaly i work with pure RO and my favorite line is "dutch pro hydro/coco RO/SO"
i mix it around 2.2mS with RO and diretly get ph 5.8

soft water nutrient lines contains more calcium/magnesium and also they are formulated to not bring the ph down
the 20-10-20 bugbee method is not for recirculating hydroponics. he wrote a paper on that in 2004 and its way different than the 20-10-20. he specifically states u should be watering to 10-20% perecent runoff. u can keep the intended rations without leaching the 10% off but it gets "tricky" in his words. and when u start to break down the 2004 paper u can see why.

the 20-10-20 he reccomndeds from his video has nothing bestides NPK in it. in almost any scenario i think ur going to need to add calcium magnesium and sulfer. hard tap water can come in around 80ppms i think. u would want something closer to 150ppm throughout the grow. so in an area wth soft tap water... lets say 40ppms. ur going to want tio be adding even more of the secndary nuitrents.

my reccomndations would be to grab some epsom salt (mag and sul). then some kind of cacium to wrok with the fertalizer u already have without chnagin the ratios too much. so i wouldnt use calcium nitrate cuz to achieve the amount of calcium u will need would push ur nitrogen level too high.

gypsom is calcium sulfate. that would work fine in either the medium or the feed. i put it in the medium to bugbees specs but ill also add to the feed slighly
calcium chloride is another option. u could use those two or a combo of those two w ur 20-10-20 to get to the calcium levels needed.\

might be easier to get a 10-10-20 and use calium nitrate. when u add the calcium nitrate it shoiuld get u to addequate calcium and adequate nitrogen
 

F2GD

Member
Thanks for the reply, yeah I was getting confused cause I was sure his video method was not for recirculation. What do you think about using that sensi cal-mag extra stuff? I can drop the spec sheet in here if you like. My thoughts were it is basically premixed so I can get those micro nutes my water is missing since it's between 0.14 and 0.17, I currently have a mix of 20-10-20 in my water that's at .8-.9 EC and my plan was to add the Cal-mag mix to it to bring it up to 1.30, (leaving the water being .55-.65 EC before the 20-10-20). Its for a freshly germed seed rn and I am waiting on the Cal-mag so I think it should be fine for the week before it arrives
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply, yeah I was getting confused cause I was sure his video method was not for recirculation. What do you think about using that sensi cal-mag extra stuff? I can drop the spec sheet in here if you like. My thoughts were it is basically premixed so I can get those micro nutes my water is missing since it's between 0.14 and 0.17, I currently have a mix of 20-10-20 in my water that's at .8-.9 EC and my plan was to add the Cal-mag mix to it to bring it up to 1.30, (leaving the water being .55-.65 EC before the 20-10-20). Its for a freshly germed seed rn and I am waiting on the Cal-mag so I think it should be fine for the week before it arrives
yes that sounds good. ur ion the right track with how ur thinking.
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member

do you a favor, keep it simple and buy real fertilizer for soft water .. not calmag bulshi
real fertiliser? bottled, mixed, with water added? no real feralizer fits that description

as a general rule of thumb any pre mixed nuirtents should be avoided as u can find comparable products on the market without water for 90% cheaper.

everyone should learn the salts. u will cut ur fertalizer bugbet by 90%, u can operate in any medium at any time, and u can tweak anything to yours or the plants specs. for the price of a very small amount of brain power.

coming from a different growing space im just blown away by the dishonestly and the lack of shame these cannabis nuitrent manufactures have.
 

F2GD

Member
Yeah I made sure to do my research first. And I do not have the storage space for the quantities of stuff you have to mix yourself. I had to buy 19kg of lime and I have used 10g, I use 1g of fertiliser per 2L of water and I had to get 2kg. I prefer the watered down Cal-mag stuff tbh cause you only need to add a tiny bit and I find it easier to work with if it is diluted.

I am planning on doing some nice small grows with a supergreenlab setup . If I get a bigger place and can grow bigger plants I 100% will do my own nutrients. My soil usage is less than 1 gallon a plant so I am working in really small quantities

I just haven't found a place that sells a kit of 40g bags of every micronutrient so you can easily make it yourself. If I have a magnesium deficiency down the road I will get Epsom salts to handle it if I have to, I was given 20g of gypsum so I should be good on calcium


**Edit, didn't realize you meant kingromano's "budlight-esk" fertilizer. Yeah I stay far away from that's stuff. My 2kg is powdered blue granules that's really fckn strong


Sidenote: if I ever make my own shitty watered down fertilizer to sell I will call it buds-light
 

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
Yeah I made sure to do my research first. And I do not have the storage space for the quantities of stuff you have to mix yourself. I had to buy 19kg of lime and I have used 10g, I use 1g of fertiliser per 2L of water and I had to get 2kg. I prefer the watered down Cal-mag stuff tbh cause you only need to add a tiny bit and I find it easier to work with if it is diluted.

I am planning on doing some nice small grows with a supergreenlab setup . If I get a bigger place and can grow bigger plants I 100% will do my own nutrients. My soil usage is less than 1 gallon a plant so I am working in really small quantities

I just haven't found a place that sells a kit of 40g bags of every micronutrient so you can easily make it yourself. If I have a magnesium deficiency down the road I will get Epsom salts to handle it if I have to, I was given 20g of gypsum so I should be good on calcium


**Edit, didn't realize you meant kingromano's "budlight-esk" fertilizer. Yeah I stay far away from that's stuff. My 2kg is powdered blue granules that's really fckn strong


Sidenote: if I ever make my own shitty watered down fertilizer to sell I will call it buds-light
u rreally wouldnt need to get too crazy to start out.

there is a jacks base out there thats like 5-20-40. mixed with calcium nitrate and epsom salt gets u basically to bugbees 20-10-20 w all nutirents included.

but i hear u bout the scpoe of the grow and mixing small quantities of the salts can bee a problem also so just do you untill u want to upsize.
 

F2GD

Member
I have an issue with my mix. It is way too acid in the low 5s, not matter what I water with the runoff is acidic (even 8.5ph)
 

Vizzaro

Active Member
I have an issue with my mix. It is way too acid in the low 5s, not matter what I water with the runoff is acidic (even 8.5ph)
This also happened to me and I think still is happening. My pH from runoff is always lower than the pH of water I have been putting in. And my plants seem to be doing fine.
 

kingromano

Well-Known Member
check for salt accumulations
if the
EC/ppm of the runoff > EC/ppm of the feed you have nutrient accumulated in the medium, it acidify root zone
 

F2GD

Member
check for salt accumulations
if the
EC/ppm of the runoff > EC/ppm of the feed you have nutrient accumulated in the medium, it acidify root zone
Yeah I am waiting until the soil dries fully but it's still reading 1.5 from feeding 1.3. I am getting 15-25% runoff each watering. I think I will try waiting an extra day between waterings
 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
Anyone? Anyone?
You shluld look for powdered nutrients
Kelp
Calcium nitrate
Mixed fertilzer 8-12-22
Epsom salt
Fulvic acid
Silica
And pk boost
Ph meter to 6.4 or 5.4 in flower
This cotains full diet , mixed at 40-50% recomended
Everything else as directed
Except fulvic acid, use a few drops every watering
Labs would help for carb and bacterium, under KNF farming
 

Overgrowtho

Well-Known Member
You shluld look for powdered nutrients
Kelp
Calcium nitrate
Mixed fertilzer 8-12-22
Epsom salt
Fulvic acid
Silica
And pk boost
Ph meter to 6.4 or 5.4 in flower
This cotains full diet , mixed at 40-50% recomended
Everything else as directed
Except fulvic acid, use a few drops every watering
Labs would help for carb and bacterium, under KNF farming
I understand that the Dr. Bugbee mix already has a lot of silica from the vermoculite. I'm using a hydro nute called Culture-S. Here is what it contains:
182768417_454353825665120_4574032669585103216_n.jpg
As a claimed "full spectrum" nutrient, I guess I have NOTHING to add when using this (veg) nute with Dr. Bugbee's medium? No need to add fulvic or kelp or anything?
 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
Guess l can save 12 dollars next time, thought it helps break salts up easier for microbes. Peat and perlite lime man from earliest recollections, humic is in peat but fulvic is pure form easier to uptake by plant. Helps with stressers and imalances, like ph down when water is10ph, l use it and it helps, if not ld be up to eyes with salt or chloramine. You might not need fulvic- humic acids but roots grow better imo. I feed medium or roots. Plant is byproduct of rootzone, imo only! Ps good chart
 

BonnMac

Active Member
D9622BD8-1422-4CED-87C1-40580E3A2A96.jpeg
50 days into flower following Bugbee’s method.
I too, have noticed a drop in PH level.
The tips of the leaves are turning brown. Is this normal at this stage?48D863E2-CB43-4BB0-8C12-DC9738B56F65.jpeg
 
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Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
Looking good, he knows how to grow, his methods are old school, reminds me of being a kid watching his youtube vids. Hes a real greenhouse man imo! Harley and Bruce should get together.
 
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