Peat Moss+ EWC (Soil Analysis)
- Thread starter The3rdMan
- Start date
Those are the nutrients such as: N=Nitrogen, P=Phosphorus, MG = Magnesium, S=Sulfur, ZN=Zinc, and so forth.
mudballs
Well-Known Member
i was just funning 3rdman, im big into peat moss and making soil....very glad to see someone doing actual science backed posts.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
What's surprising? That amended soil contains nutrients? I don't follow...
What is surprising (to me) was the amount of nutrients found in Peat Moss & EWC. Not knowing this, I was using this as my base soil and amending it with Karanja, Crustacean, Kelp meals, and Gypsum while just a little P and K about all that is needed. Too many nutrients of one fertilizer can cause lockout of other nutrients.
LOL, thanks.
CrunchBerries
Well-Known Member
Home made or store bought ewc? If home made what did you feed the worms?
2cent
Well-Known Member
I dont get why your surprised... it's a proven fact worm cast is far superior than conpost manure or anything it hold more nutrient than almost any soil..they are the soil.
Worm cast bag states a teaspoon in houseplants feeds them for 3 month in the window.
I add a bag of worm poo at flower as per coots guides.
Why didnt all ur 3 threads go in 1 thread ?
Worm cast bag states a teaspoon in houseplants feeds them for 3 month in the window.
I add a bag of worm poo at flower as per coots guides.
Why didnt all ur 3 threads go in 1 thread ?
Southernontariogrower
Well-Known Member
Boron can be supplimened cheaply by using borax laundry conditioner, mollasses and everything should be almost there. Only need zinc, Thanks for posting this, seems l need to topdress some wc in morning. And put some mollasses in the water, Thanks again.
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Growitpondifarm
Well-Known Member
this is a great example of why I have been cutting out amendments from my potting soil recipe. Liming agent, peat moss and good compost is all you need. Don’t buy into the marketing , the organic market place now is approaching the same level of BS that the synthetic industry was at 10+ years ago
JimmyJackCorn
Well-Known Member
I was just thinking about this in the shower this morning. It's like the 20+ additives we see in some organic recipes is the new bro science. The amounts, too. I put 1 Tbsp of Dolomite into a 5g pot and have had no Mg issues over two grows.
The castings I used were from Home Depot. The brand name is Noble Worm Organics.
Maybe @MustangStudFarm could chime in as I remember he was on a quest about raising MN a while back. I may have seen him post under a different name, but hopefully he sees this and can offer some experiences.
Jcue81
Well-Known Member
this is so true and such a good observation.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
It's a subject that nobody wants to talk about lol...
Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
Well now we all wanna hear about it!
I just bought some manganese sulphate to supplement them with. Still trying to find info on ppms..
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
Mn Sulfate is perfect. Greensand helps but it also comes with other things, but it's perfect if you need Ca, Fe, K, and Mn. It's slow to break down. I also use humic acid to chelate micronutrients, but if you are specifically trying to target Mn, chelates can work against you. Chelates have a stronger affinity to Fe and it can cause Mn lockout because Mn and Fe are antagonistic. Raising Fe can lower Mn. So, I've been skipping Fe inputs and using chelates in place of iron. It's really hard to tell the difference in what is causing yellowing. N, Ca, Mg, Fe, and Mn all cause yellowing and you can't tell them apart until advanced deficiencies are happening. I started getting my soil tested before I even plant in it. Soil is never perfect and there is always something going wrong lol. There comes a time when hiring a soil agronomist is the best solution.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
If it's Mn, it will be yellow with necrotic spots.