Best Germination Method

PhillupJane

Member
I've fooled around with various methods of germination throughout the years and tbh most of them are garbage and lead to stunted plants! I've also noticed that a plant stunted from birth will never be as big as a plant that was never stunted! It will try to catch up but will remain in the other plants shadows, as long as the genetics and environment are the same. The beginning of their life makes a big difference in vigor.

My tested method is similar to good ol mother natures, just with an advantage! You can directly sew seeds and recieve much better results then the all too common paper towel method! The taproot travels up to 4" before it even breaks soil naturally and I want the first thing for my root to touch to be the medium! For that same reason we should use taller pots to start! We all know how sensitive those fine root hairs are and we all know how vulnerable a baby seedling is, so why go through the trouble to disrupt the delicate root system?

To give the natural system a jumpstart simply soak seeds for 12 hours prior to imitate the rains that would normally be needed to set germination in motion. I usually wait for the first seed to pop and show its little white tail then I know the rest are about to pop. Sinking to the bottom also helps indicate that they are good and ready, but I like to add a splash of h202 so I know there's oxygen available in the water soak, and sometimes with h202 the seeds will float when they're still good. When seeds crack open in water they dont reach out (like in when in a paper towel), and the disruption to the root zone is minimal if you are careful.

As far as which way the seed is facing, I've also experimented with that. All directions will still work as long as it is humid enough(even just setting the seed on top with no soil covering it), but I find it's best to make the least work needed for them to get going fast so what I've settled with is putting a tiny depression in the medium(about 1/8 - 1/4") and place the seed in with the pointed side down(the side the root emerges from) and sprinkling a pinch of moist soil on top of that.

I have found it is best when filling a pot for germination to saturate the bottom inch or two, then fill with moist(but not wet) soil and saturate the edges of the pot in a circle, and the immediate area of the sewn seed but not much! This ensures there is adequate moisture for the seedling to start and encourages strong roots that must reach to find water as well as helping prevent damping off due to the majority of the pot being only moist.

If you are not already doing this, I encourage you to try it out!
:blsmoke:
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I've fooled around with various methods of germination throughout the years and tbh most of them are garbage and lead to stunted plants! I've also noticed that a plant stunted from birth will never be as big as a plant that was never stunted! It will try to catch up but will remain in the other plants shadows, as long as the genetics and environment are the same. The beginning of their life makes a big difference in vigor.

My tested method is similar to good ol mother natures, just with an advantage! You can directly sew seeds and recieve much better results then the all too common paper towel method! The taproot travels up to 4" before it even breaks soil naturally and I want the first thing for my root to touch to be the medium! For that same reason we should use taller pots to start! We all know how sensitive those fine root hairs are and we all know how vulnerable a baby seedling is, so why go through the trouble to disrupt the delicate root system?

To give the natural system a jumpstart simply soak seeds for 12 hours prior to imitate the rains that would normally be needed to set germination in motion. I usually wait for the first seed to pop and show its little white tail then I know the rest are about to pop. Sinking to the bottom also helps indicate that they are good and ready, but I like to add a splash of h202 so I know there's oxygen available in the water soak, and sometimes with h202 the seeds will float when they're still good. When seeds crack open in water they dont reach out (like in when in a paper towel), and the disruption to the root zone is minimal if you are careful.

As far as which way the seed is facing, I've also experimented with that. All directions will still work as long as it is humid enough(even just setting the seed on top with no soil covering it), but I find it's best to make the least work needed for them to get going fast so what I've settled with is putting a tiny depression in the medium(about 1/8 - 1/4") and place the seed in with the pointed side down(the side the root emerges from) and sprinkling a pinch of moist soil on top of that.

I have found it is best when filling a pot for germination to saturate the bottom inch or two, then fill with moist(but not wet) soil and saturate the edges of the pot in a circle, and the immediate area of the sewn seed but not much! This ensures there is adequate moisture for the seedling to start and encourages strong roots that must reach to find water as well as helping prevent damping off due to the majority of the pot being only moist.

If you are not already doing this, I encourage you to try it out!
:blsmoke:
Do you have any photos of the plants started with the above method?
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
I've fooled around with various methods of germination throughout the years and tbh most of them are garbage and lead to stunted plants! I've also noticed that a plant stunted from birth will never be as big as a plant that was never stunted! It will try to catch up but will remain in the other plants shadows, as long as the genetics and environment are the same. The beginning of their life makes a big difference in vigor.

My tested method is similar to good ol mother natures, just with an advantage! You can directly sew seeds and recieve much better results then the all too common paper towel method! The taproot travels up to 4" before it even breaks soil naturally and I want the first thing for my root to touch to be the medium! For that same reason we should use taller pots to start! We all know how sensitive those fine root hairs are and we all know how vulnerable a baby seedling is, so why go through the trouble to disrupt the delicate root system?

To give the natural system a jumpstart simply soak seeds for 12 hours prior to imitate the rains that would normally be needed to set germination in motion. I usually wait for the first seed to pop and show its little white tail then I know the rest are about to pop. Sinking to the bottom also helps indicate that they are good and ready, but I like to add a splash of h202 so I know there's oxygen available in the water soak, and sometimes with h202 the seeds will float when they're still good. When seeds crack open in water they dont reach out (like in when in a paper towel), and the disruption to the root zone is minimal if you are careful.

As far as which way the seed is facing, I've also experimented with that. All directions will still work as long as it is humid enough(even just setting the seed on top with no soil covering it), but I find it's best to make the least work needed for them to get going fast so what I've settled with is putting a tiny depression in the medium(about 1/8 - 1/4") and place the seed in with the pointed side down(the side the root emerges from) and sprinkling a pinch of moist soil on top of that.

I have found it is best when filling a pot for germination to saturate the bottom inch or two, then fill with moist(but not wet) soil and saturate the edges of the pot in a circle, and the immediate area of the sewn seed but not much! This ensures there is adequate moisture for the seedling to start and encourages strong roots that must reach to find water as well as helping prevent damping off due to the majority of the pot being only moist.

If you are not already doing this, I encourage you to try it out!
:blsmoke:
So to get this right. Plant seeds in dirt and let them go. Hmmmm imagine that mother nature has been correct this whole time. That was alot of words to say planting your seed in soil wins again......
 

PhillupJane

Member
So to get this right. Plant seeds in dirt and let them go. Hmmmm imagine that mother nature has been correct this whole time. That was alot of words to say planting your seed in soil wins again......
Why so toxic? LOL
Some people want to read details about the process to learn exactly how and why to do something, rather then hear "plant your seed in soil". I explained the hows and whys. It sounds like this is the method that you use, so congratulations. But, it seems that your words were the wasted ones!

Also, remember that this is posted in Newbie Central.
:blsmoke:
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Why so toxic? LOL
Some people want to read details about the process to learn exactly how and why to do something, rather then hear "plant your seed in soil". I explained the hows and whys. It sounds like this is the method that you use, so congratulations. But, it seems that your words were the wasted ones!

Also, remember that this is posted in Newbie Central.
:blsmoke:
True it was posted in the newbie section. But it ain't a hard concept. Poke hole in soil, put seed in soil, cover and water. Ppl can't help making things more complicated then they need. Then wonder why failure follows.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
There's just something so basic, so right and natural about putting seed to soil & water. Though this next run I may instead of using cups, use some 3/4 gallon pots I have on hand. That would give more depth and space for root development before moving to my 5gal.
 

PhillupJane

Member
There's just something so basic, so right and natural about putting seed to soil & water. Though this next run I may instead of using cups, use some 3/4 gallon pots I have on hand. That would give more depth and space for root development before moving to my 5gal.
Seed to soil is the way to go. The presoak just speeds things up, ensures the seeds start the process, and I find the seeds all pop soil more uniformly or around the same time.

I dont think you'll go back after you start in those taller pots! Since I compared myself many years ago, I've always used 1 gallons to start. I'm just now experimenting with starting in the pot that I'll finish in, and it seems very promising as well, but less versatile.

The only problem with starting in a bigger pot can be overwatering from too much saturation, but the method I use listed above ensures a great start before full saturation
:blsmoke:
 

PhillupJane

Member
I went out into the forest the other day and there were shot glasses and paper towels everywhere.
LOL a shot glass can actually help speed things up and ensure the seed is fully saturated without oversaturating your medium, but the paper towel method is one of the most popular misguided practices taught

Along with flushing and defoliation
:blsmoke:
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I went out into the forest the other day and there were shot glasses and paper towels everywhere.
I can't like this comment enough.


Seed to soil is the way to go. The presoak just speeds things up, ensures the seeds start the process, and I find the seeds all pop soil more uniformly or around the same time.

I dont think you'll go back after you start in those taller pots! Since I compared myself many years ago, I've always used 1 gallons to start. I'm just now experimenting with starting in the pot that I'll finish in, and it seems very promising as well, but less versatile.

The only problem with starting in a bigger pot can be overwatering from too much saturation, but the method I use listed above ensures a great start before full saturation
:blsmoke:
I also find the paper towel thing to be a bit too fussy and/or seems like gives people a greater chance of screwing up their taproot. The only benefit is that you see some action about a day or two sooner than just using soil. Which is great if you have a short attention span. I've done the paper towel thing with other types of germination (plants that need cold stratification, etc.), and find that if that's what's needed I'd rather just go in damp vermiculite in a small container. Last year I grew roses from seed...THAT is a process. Letting hips ripen, stripping the seeds out of them and sanitizing them, cold stratifying them for 3-4 months, then germinating. And the rate of germination ends up being something like 20%. Ugh.

Yeah, the 3/4 gallon pots are sort of a sweet spot in that they're a good bit deeper than cups or other starter cube style holders but not like planting into 3 or 5g worth of soil. I've used them successfully for growing other plants and trees from bare root stock. I also happen to have about 30 of them on hand.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Just buy a heated seedling mat and a bag of Black Gold Seedling Mix. No dome. Keep moist but not wet. Voila! In no time we have seedlings.
You. just described what I did for my first grow. I actually have 4 or 5 mats (and two controllers) and did the BG, etc. Set the mats at 77 damp soil and I do cover but only loosely. Those mats are also useful if you're a person who bakes...I use them in the kitchen to get yeasted things up to temperature during the cold months.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
You. just described what I did for my first grow. I actually have 4 or 5 mats (and two controllers) and did the BG, etc. Set the mats at 77 damp soil and I do cover but only loosely. Those mats are also useful if you're a person who bakes...I use them in the kitchen to get yeasted things up to temperature during the cold months.
Or use Rapid Rooters but the consistent heat is the key. In fact bottom heating of growing plants results in bigger plants in a shorter period of time.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Or use Rapid Rooters but the consistent heat is the key. In fact bottom heating of growing plants results in bigger plants in a shorter period of time.
Cubes are just another bit of kit to have to buy and deal with for me. Dirt. Pot. Water. Heat. After a few days a bit of light. ;) I also germinate in big ol' plastic storage bins. Keeps in enough of the moisture, but still has some air. With the lid over top, you retain some of that mat's heat, and if you're on a cement floor, it provides isolation from the cold. I've lined a few with white paper for when I put in some low wattage lights once they break the surface. I've done it that way for years for herbs, flowers & vegetables.

Keep paper towels on hand for any spills that need cleaning up. Or better yet, use a rag or cloth towel and save some paper products if you're environmentally friendly.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Cubes are just another bit of kit to have to buy and deal with for me. Dirt. Pot. Water. Heat. After a few days a bit of light. ;) I also germinate in big ol' plastic storage bins. Keeps in enough of the moisture, but still has some air. With the lid over top, you retain some of that mat's heat, and if you're on a cement floor, it provides isolation from the cold. I've lined a few with white paper for when I put in some low wattage lights once they break the surface. I've done it that way for years for herbs, flowers & vegetables.

Keep paper towels on hand for any spills that need cleaning up. Or better yet, use a rag or cloth towel and save some paper products if you're environmentally friendly.
I keep everything simple. A couple of large bags of Black Gold get me through a season. Solo cups with multiple drain holes using a soldering iron. Reuse those cups over and over. Some I’ve used for 5 years. Until they crack. I haul municipal water because my cabin is dry here. Use pH test kit instead of a frigging meter.

My mantra is KISS
 
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