Some think this is Calcium deficiency

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I got a bluelab soil pen and it's garbage in my opnion. stick a regular ph pen in moist-wet medium works better, or water slowly until enough to collect runoff to test has been good to me to.

i have the cheap analog one and i dont think it works.
What? Are you talking about this thing? I've never heard anyone complain about BlueLab.

IMG_4051.JPG
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
What? Are you talking about this thing? I've never heard anyone complain about BlueLab.

View attachment 5029321
Yes that one, takes to long to get reading and sometimes doesn’t even get a reading. Try to get support from blue lab and they never respond. I use reg 20$ pen same way now if needed with faster and just as accurate (when the blue lab is deciding to work), results.

for me, bad product and worse product support. Been through more than a few pens, that is the only one I’m not happy with.

using reg pen, the contact probe has more surface area also getting better and more accurate results it seems. Could be wrong but just looking at them side by side it sure seems that way.

glad you like it, I’m not sure why I haven’t smashed mine. Lol only trouble for me
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Yes that one, takes to long to get reading and sometimes doesn’t even get a reading. Try to get support from blue lab and they never respond. I use reg 20$ pen same way now if needed with faster and just as accurate (when the blue lab is deciding to work), results.

for me, bad product and worse product support. Been through more than a few pens, that is the only one I’m not happy with.
You stick a regular ph probe for water, in the soil?
Or do you mean a cheap soil ph probe?
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Yes that one, takes to long to get reading and sometimes doesn’t even get a reading. Try to get support from blue lab and they never respond. I use reg 20$ pen same way now if needed with faster and just as accurate (when the blue lab is deciding to work), results.

for me, bad product and worse product support. Been through more than a few pens, that is the only one I’m not happy with.
Were you storing it in the KCl storage solution? And how do you use the reg $20 pen to stick in the soil?
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
Were you storing it in the KCl storage solution? And how do you use the reg $20 pen to stick in the soil?
yes to the storage solution and yes to the 'water ph probe' in soil. probably the same probe, just on the end of a stick. i think anyways, to the 'water ph pen' see below..

this style of ph pen works fine, sticking in moist-wet soil for me

 

PKLIP

Member
Calcitic lime is best for faster soil PH change. Doloimite for long term. Thats why in general its best to use both Calcitic, and Dolomite. Exception is clay soil. Dolomite will cause the soil to become like concrete. Calcitic wont.

Excessive magnesium (contained in dolomite) can be detrimental by (1) causing some clay soils to crust, reducing aeration, (2) releasing soil nitrogen by causing formation of gaseous nitrogen oxides, (3) causing both phosphorus and potassium deficiencies in the soil, (4) causing effects similar to magnesium deficiency, (5) combining with aluminum to form a substance in plants toxic to livestock, (6) long with low calcium, allowing organic matter to form alcohol and formaldehyde when it decays, killing soil bacteria, (7) interfering with plants’ absorption of calcium and potassium, and (8) by taking the place of calcium in plant cells, giving rise to poor quality crops.”

Combining Calcitic, and Dolomite is generally the best combination.

Use 2/3 Calcitic, to 1/3 parts Dolomite.
You determine the need for either Dolomitic or Calcitic lime based upon the base saturation percentage on a soil test (identifying existing Calcium & Magnesium levels). Never heard of "combining". Also, even enhanced efficiency lime takes months to incorporate into the soil and move the needle even a fraction of a point. It would be pointless to add to a potting soil at the end of a grow.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
yes to the storage solution and yes to the 'water ph probe' in soil. probably the same probe, just on the end of a stick. i think anyways, to the 'water ph pen' see below..

this style of ph pen works fine, sticking in moist-wet soil for me

I've never heard of that. Interesting. I can't even find anything online about it. Lol
 

OneMoreRip

Well-Known Member
I've never heard of that. Interesting. I can't even find anything online about it. Lol
I only tried it because my bluelab 'soil pen' was fucking me so hard (for the second time), when trying to mix up a bunch of new soil in the rain

again, same probe tech, just on the end of a stick I would imagine
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I only tried it because my bluelab 'soil pen' was fucking me so hard (for the second time), when trying to mix up a bunch of new soil in the rain

again, same probe tech, just on the end of a stick I would imagine
I dunno if I would trust the readings without researching it first. I'm not saying that it's not possible or working for you, just saying I don't believe I could do it.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
You determine the need for either Dolomitic or Calcitic lime based upon the base saturation percentage on a soil test (identifying existing Calcium & Magnesium levels). Never heard of "combining". Also, even enhanced efficiency lime takes months to incorporate into the soil and move the needle even a fraction of a point. It would be pointless to add to a potting soil at the end of a grow.
Calcitic Lime takes 2-3 weeks to affect the soil. Of course it depends on which to use based on soil/medium analysis.

Promix BX, and HP both employ calcitic, and dolomitic lime, in a Peat based medium.
Calcitic is best for quick soil/medium PH change.



Dolomitic Lime:
-Calcium + Magnesium (65% calcium)
-Moves very slow (can take years to move a few inches in the soil)
-Apply 92 lbs per 1000 sq ft to raise the pH 1 full point

Calcitic Lime:
-Calcium + Calcium Carbonate (80-90% calcium)
-Moves very fast (results within weeks), but doesn't last long (few months)
-Apply 23 lbs per 1000 sq ft to raise the pH 1 full point
 

oill

Well-Known Member
My first grow. Everything has went well until mid flower - late flower stages with this yellow/orange/brownish spots and then blotchy.

Pics of leaves from 3 plants.

The first 4 is a WW Auto finishing week 7 of flower.
Large orange blotches in the fan leaves and now a couple of the lower ones are fading from dark green to yellowish green.

The 5th and 6th photos are from a WW Auto thats finishing up week 5 of flower. I think this one is light burn because its mainly yellowish and affecting the sugar leaves at the top 2 inches of the Cola. The Mars Hydro light was 15 in from the top on 100%. I reduced dimmer to 75% and removed the pot stand to give it back 3 in and make it 18" from the led light which is what Mars Hydro says to place for flower.

The next 2 are from a Super Skunk that is starting to get the brownish orange spots/blotches.
It is in week 3-4 of flower. Its similar to how the 1st WW Auto started and then it got crazy brown/orange blotches on almost all the fan leaves.

The buds and cola seem ok. I see no bud rot. The one that is starting week 8 of flower has a few sugar leaves on top of cola with purple on the tips.
The overnight temps are 68F in the grow tent. Im still getting some white pistils on the WW Auto that has the crappy looking fan leaves, The calyxs are still swelling.
Last pic will be the 8 week WW Auto cola.

People have told me here that its Calcium deficiency. I just recently added Dolomite lime, Kelp Meal, Fishbone Meal, Gypsum and 1" layer of EWC, I watered that in 3 days ago. Today all but the 8 wk WW Auto needed watered, I mixed 2 tbsp of blackstrap molasses with 1 gallon water pH'd to 6.7. I watered them with that today, 2 gallons total for 3 plants.

The girls are growing really well they are in 1/3 FFOF and 2/3 FFHF that i added about 2 cups of EWC to before I transplanted them,
They have been top dresses with Dr Earth dry ferts in Veg and in preflower. I hit them up with the liquid 1-1-1 from Dr Earth in veg which actually made a couple claw showing N tox. After watering them vetter the claws all went away.

The 8week WW Auto now has upward clawed tips. I did flush her real good as the pH was 6.1 for the runoff and after 2 flushes she was at 6.45pH.
Thats when the yellowing started 2 days later. The orange blotches I have no idea if its nute burn due to N tox cause the leaves were very dark green or if its nute burn necrosis or Calcium def or just the plant is starting to die because its in late flower.

Just worried as the Super Skunk is showing the same spots starting to show.

Thanks for your feedback
Have a Great Day.
That plant is locked out due to overfeeding or ph issues. Flush with ph water and feed at lower ec.
 

PKLIP

Member
Calcitic Lime takes 2-3 weeks to affect the soil. Of course it depends on which to use based on soil/medium analysis.

Promix BX, and HP both employ calcitic, and dolomitic lime, in a Peat based medium.
Calcitic is best for quick soil/medium PH change.



Dolomitic Lime:
-Calcium + Magnesium (65% calcium)
-Moves very slow (can take years to move a few inches in the soil)
-Apply 92 lbs per 1000 sq ft to raise the pH 1 full point

Calcitic Lime:
-Calcium + Calcium Carbonate (80-90% calcium)
-Moves very fast (results within weeks), but doesn't last long (few months)
-Apply 23 lbs per 1000 sq ft to raise the pH 1 full point
The "liming" effect of Dolomitic lime is 40% stronger than calcitic lime. The ability to effect pH also depends on how finely or coarsely ground it is, so you cannot make a statement of "x" pounds to raise pH "x". Also other considerations need to be made to determine that amount which is why a soil test would be needed.
 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Premier Horticulture.


Limestone is often added to growing media to offset the acidity of certain components such as peat moss and pine bark. The two main types of limestone are calcitic limestone and dolomitic limestone. Although both have similar effects, there are a few important differences.

Greenhouse growers know that in order to achieve optimum nutrient availability for plant growth, a growing medium's pH should be within 5.5-6.2, depending on the crops grown. The standard components in most growing media, peat moss and composted pine bark have a pH of 3.5-5.0. The pH of a growing medium with these components is too low for crops; therefore, limestone has to be added to increase the pH.

The amount and choice of limestone used to increase a growing medium's pH is a function of several factors, including the bulk density of the growing medium, the components used and the pH requirements for most of the crops grown in the growing medium. Once a crop is planted into the growing medium, factors such as the alkalinity of the water, the fertilizer(s) used as well as the specific crops grown, also affect the growing medium's pH and must be monitored and maintained by the grower throughout the crop cycle.

Variable starting pH?
A growing media manufacturer only has control over the bulk density, components and the limestone source and particle sizes used. In general, growing media manufacturers will add limestone at a rate which will provide a pH of 5.5-6.2 once the unused growing medium's pH has stabilized in the package. What is meant by stabilized? Typically, a growing medium that is less than one month old with low moisture has an initial pH of 4.5-4.9. The limestone added to the growing medium is in a granular form and must dissolve in the water contained in the growing medium before it can raise the pH to the desired range. The higher the moisture content, the faster it will rise. Once within the range, the true growing medium pH can be determined; however, most growing media are packaged at a moisture content between 45 - 55% by weight and the available water is far too low to activate the limestone in a reasonable length of time. The most accurate way to determine the pH of the growing medium is to measure it 7-10 days after planting and thoroughly watering in the crop.

Particle size of limestone
When selecting a limestone source, the size of the particles dictate how fast the limestone will start to adjust the pH of the growing medium and how long it will last. Most growing media manufacturers use powdered limestone that has a texture similar to flour. These fine limestone particles begin dissolving quickly after planting to adjust the growing medium's pH within a week (if it is wet), and will last for 2-4 months. This correlates well with the bench time for most greenhouse crops. If the limestone particles are coarser and have the texture of salt, the limestone may take up to 2 months to begin adjusting the pH of the growing medium, but will last for over a year. This would not work for most greenhouse crops.

The two most common forms of limestone incorporated into growing media are calcitic and dolomitic limestone:

  • Calcitic limestone is calcium carbonate and it neutralizes acids in the growing medium. It provides some calcium, but almost no magnesium. Calcitic limestone dissolves faster than dolomitic limestone so it quickly adjusts a growing medium's pH within one week, but it has a shorter residual effect of up to 1-2 months.
  • Dolomitic limestone is a combination of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate and serves two purposes in the growing medium. Primarily, it neutralizes acids in the growing medium but also provides some additional magnesium and calcium for plant uptake. Dolomitic limestone dissolves slowly in the growing medium, resulting in longer term pH adjustment (up to 2-4 months) and buffering to improve pH stability.

Most commercial growing media manufacturers rely solely on dolomitic limestone and vary the particle size to control release rates. Premier Tech Horticulture, however, uses a combination of both forms. Together, dolomitic and calcitic limestone create a more even and consistent growing medium pH.

When using both forms of limestone, better pH control can be achieved; calcitic limestone quickly releases and adjusts the growing medium's pH while dolomitic limestone slowly releases over the course of the crop, resulting in limited pH fluctuations during production.
 

Milky Weed

Well-Known Member
yes to the storage solution and yes to the 'water ph probe' in soil. probably the same probe, just on the end of a stick. i think anyways, to the 'water ph pen' see below..

this style of ph pen works fine, sticking in moist-wet soil for me

If it has cotton on the probe tip it’s not suitable for sticking into soil, but fine for water. The soil probes use an electrode at the tip to take ph. I heard some issues about that specific blue lab pen though so I went with one of their metcom plus and I love it.
 

PKLIP

Member
Premier Horticulture.


Limestone is often added to growing media to offset the acidity of certain components such as peat moss and pine bark. The two main types of limestone are calcitic limestone and dolomitic limestone. Although both have similar effects, there are a few important differences.

Greenhouse growers know that in order to achieve optimum nutrient availability for plant growth, a growing medium's pH should be within 5.5-6.2, depending on the crops grown. The standard components in most growing media, peat moss and composted pine bark have a pH of 3.5-5.0. The pH of a growing medium with these components is too low for crops; therefore, limestone has to be added to increase the pH.

The amount and choice of limestone used to increase a growing medium's pH is a function of several factors, including the bulk density of the growing medium, the components used and the pH requirements for most of the crops grown in the growing medium. Once a crop is planted into the growing medium, factors such as the alkalinity of the water, the fertilizer(s) used as well as the specific crops grown, also affect the growing medium's pH and must be monitored and maintained by the grower throughout the crop cycle.

Variable starting pH?
A growing media manufacturer only has control over the bulk density, components and the limestone source and particle sizes used. In general, growing media manufacturers will add limestone at a rate which will provide a pH of 5.5-6.2 once the unused growing medium's pH has stabilized in the package. What is meant by stabilized? Typically, a growing medium that is less than one month old with low moisture has an initial pH of 4.5-4.9. The limestone added to the growing medium is in a granular form and must dissolve in the water contained in the growing medium before it can raise the pH to the desired range. The higher the moisture content, the faster it will rise. Once within the range, the true growing medium pH can be determined; however, most growing media are packaged at a moisture content between 45 - 55% by weight and the available water is far too low to activate the limestone in a reasonable length of time. The most accurate way to determine the pH of the growing medium is to measure it 7-10 days after planting and thoroughly watering in the crop.

Particle size of limestone
When selecting a limestone source, the size of the particles dictate how fast the limestone will start to adjust the pH of the growing medium and how long it will last. Most growing media manufacturers use powdered limestone that has a texture similar to flour. These fine limestone particles begin dissolving quickly after planting to adjust the growing medium's pH within a week (if it is wet), and will last for 2-4 months. This correlates well with the bench time for most greenhouse crops. If the limestone particles are coarser and have the texture of salt, the limestone may take up to 2 months to begin adjusting the pH of the growing medium, but will last for over a year. This would not work for most greenhouse crops.

The two most common forms of limestone incorporated into growing media are calcitic and dolomitic limestone:

  • Calcitic limestone is calcium carbonate and it neutralizes acids in the growing medium. It provides some calcium, but almost no magnesium. Calcitic limestone dissolves faster than dolomitic limestone so it quickly adjusts a growing medium's pH within one week, but it has a shorter residual effect of up to 1-2 months.
  • Dolomitic limestone is a combination of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate and serves two purposes in the growing medium. Primarily, it neutralizes acids in the growing medium but also provides some additional magnesium and calcium for plant uptake. Dolomitic limestone dissolves slowly in the growing medium, resulting in longer term pH adjustment (up to 2-4 months) and buffering to improve pH stability.

Most commercial growing media manufacturers rely solely on dolomitic limestone and vary the particle size to control release rates. Premier Tech Horticulture, however, uses a combination of both forms. Together, dolomitic and calcitic limestone create a more even and consistent growing medium pH.

When using both forms of limestone, better pH control can be achieved; calcitic limestone quickly releases and adjusts the growing medium's pH while dolomitic limestone slowly releases over the course of the crop, resulting in limited pH fluctuations during production.
Not interested in reading your cut and paste. See attached that you cut and pasted from a lawn forum, where people even pointed out that the orginal post contained incorrect information lol
 

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