A ? for HLG Diablo 200 users

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
For extra credit, tell me how mine is wired with that driver. Have a good nite :)
Ok, this shit is starting to come back to me now. Each of your boards is getting about 2100 mA at 76 V at max power. You need at least 56 V for those boards.

When you adjust the dimmer you're lowering the amps or current. The voltage will stay at 76 per board if I'm remembering correctly. But I'll keep studying. Don't have it all figured out yet, :lol:
 

shimbob

Well-Known Member
Why is it impossible to find V vs I charts for the QB648?

The boards run 54.9V at 2.2A, figure 54.75V at 2.1A? Two in series would be ~109.5V, well within the drivers' range.

Driver selection is harder than any other part of a build.
I find it a lot easier when you don't stress out about CC vs CV. There's only one question you need to answer: Given the current output of a driver, can that driver also provide the voltage that the LEDs (be they wired in series, parallel, or mixed) will require to consume that current? Yes, you're good. No, pick another driver or change the wiring. Anything else is insignificant.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
This is a first time run with LED's, so I'm starting small - 2' x 2'.
How tall is your tent? You could always get the kit and driver separately that would be dimmable. Or get a Rspec kit.

This is $150 after the RIU10 code. I am happy with all my Rspec's.

 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Ok, this shit is starting to come back to me now. Each of your boards is getting about 2100 mA at 76 V at max power. You need at least 56 V for those boards.

When you adjust the dimmer you're lowering the amps or current. The voltage will stay at 76 per board if I'm remembering correctly. But I'll keep studying. Don't have it all figured out yet, :lol:
Yes I'm talking to myself, lol, but I think I said that backwards maybe, :wall:

The current will stay at 2100 mA but when you mess with the driver, it raises or lowers the voltage to adjust the watts with a CC driver.

A CV driver adjusts the mA when you mess with the dimmer.

But my brain is coated with thc, so don't take my word for it.

 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Not quite. A driver in CC mode adjusts the current to dim. Then as the current changes the forward voltage of the LED changes, and the driver will then change the voltage to match.
That's where my confusion is. But if you take a HLG-320H-2100 and put it on one board only that one board would be getting 152 V at maximum. Wouldn't that fry it?
 

shimbob

Well-Known Member
Nope, voltage output matches LED's forward voltage. Try measuring the voltage of whatever lights you have.
Actually, I'm not sure one QB648 on the 320-C2100 would light up at all since ~55V is out of the driver's range (76-152V).
Actually^2, hlg-320H-C2100 test report says the CC region, while being listed as 76-152V, was tested to be 0.5V-151V. So it could light up.
 

shimbob

Well-Known Member
If you're really curious about how drivers and LEDs work regarding CC/CV mode, I'd suggest buying a bench power supply, like this one which has indicators to show if it's in CC or CV mode, then hook up some LED and play with the knobs.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Nope, voltage output matches LED's forward voltage. Try measuring the voltage of whatever lights you have.
Actually, I'm not sure one QB648 on the 320-C2100 would light up at all since ~55V is out of the driver's range (76-152V).
Actually^2, hlg-320H-C2100 test report says the CC region, while being listed as 76-152V, was tested to be 0.5V-151V. So it could light up.
So basically we're all confused, lol. There is a dude on here that understands all that shit, but I don't want to tag the wrong person. I need to go back to that RIU DIY thread, because there's lots of knowledge in it about that.
 

2com

Well-Known Member
LEDgardener has a series of youtube videos devoted entirely to how these meanwell drivers work. CC, CV, A-type, B-type, CC+CV, Series wiring and Parallel wiring. It's great for letting us all know just how much we don't know.
Check'em out.
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Ok, this shit is starting to come back to me now. Each of your boards is getting about 2100 mA at 76 V at max power. You need at least 56 V for those boards.

When you adjust the dimmer you're lowering the amps or current. The voltage will stay at 76 per board if I'm remembering correctly. But I'll keep studying. Don't have it all figured out yet, :lol:
The boards wired in a series, at full power max out at alittle over 220w. So 220/2.1=105 ish or 52.5v per board
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
The boards wired in a series, at full power max out at alittle over 220w. So 220/2.1=105 ish or 52.5v per board
You posted a link that had the 320-2100.

What driver do you actually have?

And it's not called "in a series", lol. That's for TV.
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
You posted a link that had the 320-2100.

What driver do you actually have?
That is the driver i have. I doubled checked and the actual max watts is 250.
And yes, 2 boards wired in series.
Maybe what you arent understanding is that at 2.1 amps of current they only need 120vdc.
 

Babalonian

Well-Known Member
Pardon my piping up master Padawan Warrior, I got nothing but respect. I been recently driver and HLG QB648 shopping, I think I have some insight, although I ultimately did not purchase a HLG 200 package. (I still really want one though…. But I really next want a QB288 v2 blue spec kit… please Santa come in February, maybe, please baby ganja Jesus).

The Diablo 200 comes w/ a Meanwell XLG-200-H-A, I believe. This model, the “A”, is dimmable via a built-in potentiometer in the back of the driver’s case.

Now, as the package is sold and assembled (per instructions or to be “under warranty”), the driver is mounted on top of this heat sink, with the ass-end not very ergonomically accessible.

Im assuming HLG says dimming is optional over “disassembly required” or etc.

Peace, may the force be with you
 
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PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Pardon my piping up master Padawan Warrior, I got nothing but respect. I been recently driver and HLG QB648 shopping, I think I have some insight, although I ultimately did not purchase a HLG 200 package. (I still really want one though…. But I really next want a QB288 v2 blue spec kit… please Santa come in February, maybe, please baby ganja Jesus).

The Diablo 200 comes w/ a Meanwell XLG-200-H-A, I believe. This model, the “A”, is disable via a built-in potentiometer in the back of the driver’s case.

Now, as the package is sold and assembled (per instructions or to be “under warranty”), the driver is mounted on top of this heat sink, with the ass-end not very ergonomically accessible.

Im assuming HLG says dimming is optional over “disassembly required” or etc.

Peace, may the force be with you
 

T.H.Cammo

Well-Known Member
How tall is your tent? You could always get the kit and driver separately that would be dimmable. Or get a Rspec kit.

This is $150 after the RIU10 code. I am happy with all my Rspec's.

Glad to see that Padawan still realizes that the O.P. (me) is still here! I must admit; this thread has turned into T.M.I. (too much information), though I still find it informative. Here is what I've got so far:
1. The Diablo 200 is a killer unit, albeit, with some "controversy" over the dimmability. That is fixable or controllable, one way or another.
2. Replacing the driver (for the "correct" model) would solve the controversy - best choice!

I don't have a tent, I have a purpose built growbox. It is "modular" so I can add a section, or drop a section, and make it any height I want. I'm thinking 6 ft. (or 2 meters) should be enough. What is the current RIU Discount code for HLG, I like to save money? That very light you suggest was my 2nd choice overall, I just thought that the Diablo 200 had a little extra kick. Plus a little more "Red spectrum" light.
 

T.H.Cammo

Well-Known Member
Pardon my piping up master Padawan Warrior, I got nothing but respect. I been recently driver and HLG QB648 shopping, I think I have some insight, although I ultimately did not purchase a HLG 200 package. (I still really want one though…. But I really next want a QB288 v2 blue spec kit… please Santa come in February, maybe, please baby ganja Jesus).

The Diablo 200 comes w/ a Meanwell XLG-200-H-A, I believe. This model, the “A”, is dimmable via a built-in potentiometer in the back of the driver’s case.

Now, as the package is sold and assembled (per instructions or to be “under warranty”), the driver is mounted on top of this heat sink, with the ass-end not very ergonomically accessible.

Im assuming HLG says dimming is optional over “disassembly required” or etc.

Peace, may the force be with you
Regarding the mounting of the driver. Correct me if I'm wrong; but doesn't the Diablo 200 Kit come with an "extension cord" that allows one to mount the driver remotely - making it accessable?
 
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