Need some organic advice on this struggling clone.

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
thanks again for your thoughts. I have some EM1 arriving tomorrow. Can I ask how you suggest I use it? Really appreciate it!
Foliar spray, root drench are the two most common with with particular product. I like to add it to any AACT.

Also mist any scraps, shredded paper in my worm farms.

You can use it to ferment with and make your own concoctions of Veg/ Bloom nutrients. Depending on what the particular fermentable item(s) NPK, poloysaturides, ammino acids, vit, natural growth hormones, ect...will dictate the benefits to the plant and ultimately the quality of yield.

Use it to make bokashi compost. (Highly recommend!!!)

So instead of buying more EM1, get 1 gallon of milk. I never finish a 1 gallon and always have about 1/2 of left. When it hits the sell by date instead of throwing it out, I'll add 1-2oz of EM1 to the milk. Swirl it and stick it in a warm/dark area.
After about 1 week, the lactose with separate from the protein and you'll have a curd on the surface. What you want to keep is the piss color liquid. This is your inoculate serum and future batches. Made the same way. Separate the curd from liquid serum, discard curd, or feed it to livestock or pets.

You can store this serum in the refrigerator for several months. Or put it to "sleep" by adding blackstrap molasses. Don't worry, the microbes re-awaken once diluted into water. If you choose to put them to sleep, this now becomes a shelf stabil product for 9-12 months.

It will and should smell sour, if it smells putrid its expired or something went wrong when making it.
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Foliar spray, root drench are the two most common with with particular product. I like to add it to any AACT.

Also mist any scraps, shredded paper in my worm farms.

You can use it to ferment with and make your own concoctions of Veg/ Bloom nutrients. Depending on what the particular fermentable item(s) NPK, poloysaturides, ammino acids, vit, natural growth hormones, ect...will dictate the benefits to the plant and ultimately the quality of yield.

Use it to make bokashi compost. (Highly recommend!!!)

So instead of buying more EM1, get 1 gallon of milk. I never finish a 1 gallon and always have about 1/2 of left. When it hits the sell by date instead of throwing it out, I'll add 1-2oz of EM1 to the milk. Swirl it and stick it in a warm/dark area.
After about 1 week, the lactose with separate from the protein and you'll have a curd on the surface. What you want to keep is the piss color liquid. This is your inoculate serum and future batches. Made the same way. Separate the curd from liquid serum, discard curd, or feed it to livestock or pets.

You can store this serum in the refrigerator for several months. Or put it to "sleep" by adding blackstrap molasses. Don't worry, the microbes re-awaken once diluted into water. If you choose to put them to sleep, this now becomes a shelf stabil product for 9-12 months.

It will and should smell sour, if it smells putrid its expired or something went wrong when making it.
Wow, thank you so much for such a detailed answer! I’ll def hit the worm bin with a couple spritzes of the tea and add to my next tea. Would you add this at the beginning of the brew or towards the end? Appreciate the help!
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Wow, thank you so much for such a detailed answer! I’ll def hit the worm bin with a couple spritzes of the tea and add to my next tea. Would you add this at the beginning of the brew or towards the end? Appreciate the help!
In AACT everything goes in at the beginning for me. Enzymes are the only exceptions and I rarely add them because the bacterial side of a tea provides more than enough for my needs.

You can always throw a very little bit of white vinegar to the water with em1 for pH adjustment of the soil. Citric acid is also ok for organic.
 

Fardsnarp

Well-Known Member
and to switch to dechlorinated tap water
Good luck with that. Most systems now use chloromine which is actually pretty difficult to remove. Cloromine is chlorine plus ammonia. That pool that smells over chlorinated? It may just be over pissed in. Seriously. :( I'm not saying there is enough to cause problems for plants because I don't know if that was part of your problem or not. Just though I'd throw this out there to let people know you probably can't dechlorinate water just be letting it sit anymore.

 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Good luck with that. Most systems now use chloromine which is actually pretty difficult to remove. Cloromine is chlorine plus ammonia. That pool that smells over chlorinated? It may just be over pissed in. Seriously. :( I'm not saying there is enough to cause problems for plants because I don't know if that was part of your problem or not. Just though I'd throw this out there to let people know you probably can't dechlorinate water just be letting it sit anymore.

My water purification system removes it.
 

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Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Jan 27th update- Applied a couple handfuls of crushed malted barley then watered in a AACT with an ounce of EM1 and 2ml of Fulpower. Hopeful to see the leaf curl resolve in the near future. I want to make sure she’s healthy when I take cuts.

edit: What should the ideal root zone temps be? I have a space heater in there in temps range from 68 at night to 77 lights on. I have the bed raised off the floor.




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McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Jan 27th update- Applied a couple handfuls of crushed malted barley then watered in a AACT with an ounce of EM1 and 2ml of Fulpower. Hopeful to see the leaf curl resolve in the near future. I want to make sure she’s healthy when I take cuts.

edit: What should the ideal root zone temps be? I have a space heater in there in temps range from 68 at night to 77 lights on. I have the bed raised off the floor.




View attachment 5075204View attachment 5075206
Your rootzone is in the low 70's. Now don't water for a little while. Middle knuckle deep with your finger to check. If your feeling frogy buy a digital moisture meter. Read your plants, they'll show you when they're drying out.
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Your rootzone is in the low 70's. Now don't water for a little while. Middle knuckle deep with your finger to check. If your feeling frogy buy a digital moisture meter. Read your plants, they'll show you when they're drying out.
Thanks!
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Taclong has only worsened last few days. Last watering was the AACT on Thursday. At a loss with this one. Other plants in the same bed are fine. I did notice my cool mist humidifier was blowing directly at this plant so I moved that.

E4253744-2618-4788-A3C0-ABC9FAD1E202.jpeg
 
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Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Well fuck- Russet mites. Deciding if I want to fight or start over my 70 gallon 2x4 bed. Leaning towards throwing everything out, cleaning like a mofo, waiting a few weeks Then spray down everything with bleach again and start over. I fucking knew better, too.7B7A9A18-B69B-438D-9119-E6AFE38D4311.jpeg
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Well fuck- Russet mites. Deciding if I want to fight or start over my 70 gallon 2x4 bed. Leaning towards throwing everything out, cleaning like a mofo, waiting a few weeks Then spray down everything with bleach again and start over. I fucking knew better, too.View attachment 5079468
What indications do you have that show mites? How are the other two plants?
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Twisted smaller new growth looking off. extreme taacoing as shown above. Environment temp/humidity/PPFD has been in ideal range. I spotted what I believe are eggs on the under side of leaves.
and what really made me understand this is mite Is my other two are now exhibiting the same signs beginning where the plants touch.
279A5EE6-78C6-468C-A7BF-EB2DECBE9416.jpeg7FBE271F-3C9F-46DD-ABFD-692B0394AFDF.jpeg
 

GenericEnigma

Well-Known Member
Twisted smaller new growth looking off. extreme taacoing as shown above. Environment temp/humidity/PPFD has been in ideal range. I spotted what I believe are eggs on the under side of leaves.
and what really made me understand this is mite Is my other two are now exhibiting the same signs beginning where the plants touch.
View attachment 5079867View attachment 5079868
I would try a citric acid foliar spray treatment regimen before giving up, if it were me. I'm not sure if such a treatment works on russet mites, but it works great on spider mites--and, incidentally, cucumeris mites.

If you do so, just be careful and follow good instructions. Too much citric acid can stress the plant and cause leaf damage.

I have heard this treatment can be safely used in flower, and I have done so, but I imagine it does leave some measure of residue--which can be cleaned off with a typical water rinse, if you find it necessary. It also darkens the pistils prematurely.

edit: Based on available information, I'm not 100% sure it's mites--but I see how it could be.
 
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Killaki

Well-Known Member
Twisted smaller new growth looking off. extreme taacoing as shown above. Environment temp/humidity/PPFD has been in ideal range. I spotted what I believe are eggs on the under side of leaves.
and what really made me understand this is mite Is my other two are now exhibiting the same signs beginning where the plants touch.
View attachment 5079867View attachment 5079868
Man I can't believe I never saw any notifications for your responses! So sorry about that! Are you sure it's mites? Have pictures of the eggs? I've been organic for a long time up till very recently I did make a medium change.
That aside, it dawned on me recently after having some problems myself in other plants I've used baking soda solution to kill all sorts of things. I looked it up and it's safe as a foliar spray, and soil treatment for cannabis.
I'm early in my current grow and haven't had any problems yet but I am going to be trying this next for a variety of possible issues, pest control, fungal control, pm, ect. I really like to use household items in my grows and forgot I've used this for other things. 1 tablespoon of baking soda per quarter of water.
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
I did find an egg and a 20 year veteran said, “russett mites” when I showed pics. When I compare the damage it looks identical. The clone that gave me all the problems was the one that brought them in. I knew better but since I had the PH issue I assumed the poor growth was due to that even after getting it corrected and the plant greening back up.

I removed all but the one sour diesel plant. I heavily defoliated it and sprayed it down with Azamax. Apparently sulphur is effective and safe in veg so I have some of that and I also got some Tweetmint enzymes on the way. My plan is to try to nurse this diesel back to health, grab a cut and stay on it like white on rice with sulphur and enzyme dunks. Keep it in a separate tent by itself and just veg and watch for a long time.

Not sure this is the smart thing to do, but I cannot let go of this clone. I will be removing the 2x4’ bed in my main tent and starting over from scratch after bleaching it all down and waiting several weeks.

If I were smart I would kill it now and just move on.

Ugh..
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Man I can't believe I never saw any notifications for your responses! So sorry about that! Are you sure it's mites? Have pictures of the eggs? I've been organic for a long time up till very recently I did make a medium change.
That aside, it dawned on me recently after having some problems myself in other plants I've used baking soda solution to kill all sorts of things. I looked it up and it's safe as a foliar spray, and soil treatment for cannabis.
I'm early in my current grow and haven't had any problems yet but I am going to be trying this next for a variety of possible issues, pest control, fungal control, pm, ect. I really like to use household items in my grows and forgot I've used this for other things. 1 tablespoon of baking soda per quarter of water.
I might try the baking soda option as a dusting for the soil surface until I can grab cuts and clear out everything. Thanks for the support guys. Glad I have full jars to get me to my next harvest!
 

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
Last night after spending a solid 60 minutes scoping every leaf, branch, and petiole I gave up trying to find mites and eggs.

i rolled one up and grabbed a seat, looking the tent over and trying to take a step back on the problem. Something changed from my last successful run that is causing this and it does not seem like a pest.

After going the majority of my last run using RO, I did water (dechlorinated) from my tap the last 2-3 weeks before realizing the huge difference in PH between the two- 8.4 versus 6.4 RO. So it’s possible this is PH related. I am back to using RO since and these plants have all been getting RO this current run. So could it be possible this is a cal-mag/trace mineral issue? (My tap water has like 50ppm of sodium so I am trying not to use it.)

Air Exchange- My last run (1st indoor grow) I ran my AC infinity exhaust on manual mode and ran it around 25-35% 24/7. This cycle, due to the cold here in CT, I use a space heater in the tent and exhaust only when temps get above 77. With lights on the fan will kick on for a minute here and there and then shut off completely. I wonder If this could be related to not enough air exchange? I changed my exhaust back manual so it will be a constant supply of fresh air.

After pulling off a decent first run i realize how little I actually know about the big picture of cultivating. I am having so much fun trying to learn and figure this out though and definitely appreciate everyone’s thoughts.

Really happy to not find any mites though. I sure searched high and low for them.
 
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