I have 2 of these 2500w (425-435w actual) cob lights that I got for a really good price. I've looked into them and they look good to the people I've saw using them or similar. My issue is that they don't dim. What's the best way to approach using them with burning everything but not getting too much light. I think my current par value from my app is between 70 and 900 and the lumens say 42000 to 45000. Opinions and help would be great.
Light question
- Thread starter ajkrach
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- lighting new grower
Autodoctor
Well-Known Member
Those apps on phone are not accurate
I know, but it's a ballpark estimate anyway
inth3shadowz
Well-Known Member
I bought a cheap lux meter off Amazon and just do the conversion I found online...no longer have any issues with too little or too much light. After you get to know your lights you'll barely have to use it, but good to have.
BBPac
Active Member
Why do you have to use a conversion? Lux meters aren’t accurate with LED? Which conversion do you use?
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inth3shadowz
Well-Known Member
I use the Sativa University calculator they offer...I guess you technically don't need to convert...but my lights charts go by PAR so I just go by that lol.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Just buy a phantom by photobio. It's only 250$
Are those aglex? They are actually decent lights. Poor footprint but they do grow good buds. When running those cobs you need to be up higher. Watch for signs of stress. Leaves drooping...raise the light. Leaves praying... You're good.
Are those aglex? They are actually decent lights. Poor footprint but they do grow good buds. When running those cobs you need to be up higher. Watch for signs of stress. Leaves drooping...raise the light. Leaves praying... You're good.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Also you don't NEED to run the 'bloom' switch in veg especially in the beginning. The cobs are full spectrum. If it's aglex I know they use 3400k and 5000k so you're good. The cobs used arent the greatest. I think they used the older 3528's instead of the newer 2835's, 3020's or 3014's
They're phlizon. I almost got aglex, but these were a little cheaper. I looked at as much as I could find and they're the same basically as the others. They seem to be nice lights though. Only using 1 with my seedlings. I'm only using the blurple. They seem alright. Just hate the no dimmer and trying to figure out where to put the light as far as height
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
They're alright. Depends on what you're looking for. Little bit of weed to smoke yourself.... You'll be fine. I've used aglex. I still do sometimes as a booster for the autos.
All I need right now is for me.
con1ey
Well-Known Member
Find the manufacturer's PAR chart. You want to use different PAR at different stages. Maybe 600-700 PAR for veg? Max 1000 PAR for flower stage. 1000 PAR is perfect for the plant to thrive without getting burnt. You don't need a dimmer. Just adjust the light distance from the plant with all switches on. If you are running photos, tame them with trellis and topping so they don't grow too high and still got two feet between your light and plants.
hillbill
Well-Known Member
When I learned to recognize LED “Light Burn” or overload as a real thing, now I’m growing better herb with less power. LED burn can look like a wide array of deficiencies which seemingly do not respond to treatment.
“Plant Doctor” at “Grow Weed Easy” is helpful for dealing with troubles.
“Plant Doctor” at “Grow Weed Easy” is helpful for dealing with troubles.
rootforme
Well-Known Member
The most important thing of why you need a real light meter that measures par is because you need to be able to calculate your DLI. (Daily light integral) If you don't know how many moles your plants are receiving per day then you can't calculate your DLI and you can't have any idea of potential yield without it. You should probably start there and then figure out what light you want. You want at least a 40 DLI but really you want 60+ if you want the danky danky. To get to 60+ DLI you want a light that is rated at least 1500 micromoles per second.
hillbill
Well-Known Member
You need a light that generates about 1500 micromoles. Proved it myself
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Maybe you could add a few switches to turn off some of the COBs...
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
No one should pay $250 for the Phantom Photobio. I bought one recently for $135.00 and there were other retail options in the same price range.
LeastExpectedGrower
Well-Known Member
You probably saw, I recently bought a Phantom Photobio and compared it to Phontone on iPhone (XS Max)...I ran both side by side at a different distances from my lights, different dimming from the lights and found that with the diffuser that Photone asks for (20# copier paper) directly on top of the phone lens. My results were less than 10% variance. Photone generally was reading 4-8% higher than the PhotoBio, so with that phone hardware, yes it is pretty accurate.