Lavender, Gnats and Neem Oil?

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
The fungus gnats are now in all my exposed soil, so getting the mosquito bits was necessary,I see the damage that the young ones are doing.

Today only saw 1 gnat.

It's the soil I brought home, didn't really see the gnats till then
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
All this over a fungus gnat? Just water properly, don’t use spray bottles, water deeply and walk away til she wilts. If the primrose really has fungus gnats and not fruit flies, put an inch on sand on the soil, breaks the cycle, they can’t go through sand, wet or dry. Sticky traps and bti work, neem is nasty to smoke, being systemic i have only used it in early veg and i swear you can still taste it later.
I don't want any bugs in my house... blerg.. bleergh... Yuck.


Only beneficial bacteria and fungi are allowed on these premesis from now on.

Lol. :bigjoint:

I have to deal with FRUIT FLIES also from the street. They come in the building and the hallways.


So I have at least two different kinds of pests.

☮
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
All this over a fungus gnat? Just water properly, don’t use spray bottles, water deeply and walk away til she wilts. If the primrose really has fungus gnats and not fruit flies, put an inch on sand on the soil, breaks the cycle, they can’t go through sand, wet or dry. Sticky traps and bti work, neem is nasty to smoke, being systemic i have only used it in early veg and i swear you can still taste it later.
Many years ago when I first had an issue with gnats I tried sand, but it didn't work for me. I wouldn't wait for a plant to wilt to water it, because the root tips may die back in the process.
 

Kerowacked

Well-Known Member
Many years ago when I first had an issue with gnats I tried sand, but it didn't work for me. I wouldn't wait for a plant to wilt to water it, because the root tips may die back in the process.
I don’t wait for wilt either but i’ve seen more plants killed by rookies overwatering than underwatering, and it prevents bugs.
 

Babalonian

Well-Known Member
1. Nematodes (for pests every 2-3 weeks)
2. mycorrhizal fungus
3. vermacompost (earthworms prevent soil compaction)

lollipop and plant clovers for cover crop. They add nitrogen and phosphorus back into the soil. Throw banana peels in the soil for potassium.
Thank you for that info, it really helped answer a question I’m having understanding if the nematodes will work with ___. Studying up on the vermacompost, and the clover suggestion (I’m a cannabis growing noob relatively, I’ve wanted to study up on a good top over to introduce, and I hugely appreciate that tip/direction from ya).

Thank you
 

Babalonian

Well-Known Member
Lolipop what?
What's a plant cover?

Hmm I dunno about the banana peels just yet. That will attract more bugs.
Thought of that though, if it get red Wigglers, to feed them organic matter.


I'm adding my wood ash (potassium) into my mix soon.

Got the fungus ☮

Don't have nematodes right now though.

Have beneficial bacteria though.

I see nematodes on Amazon, but expensive.

Natural ways to increase nematodes?

Have EWC in my soil☮
Lolipop is a method of defoliation done to mature plants… where to begin and stop on that topic is impossible, go forth and look into it a bit and ask any specific questions.

Plant cover is what to plant around and under your ladies as they go stratospheric - compared to these plants that live within inches above and below the soil around your plant. For what they consume and trade back to your plants immediate bio system, well worth considering imho.


Personaly I could use pointers on training still, but am long ways from that this season I think. Snipping fan leaves is easy and Ingot that down. What I am weak on is inducing more branch-out though… or I think I am.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Lolipop is a method of defoliation done to mature plants… where to begin and stop on that topic is impossible, go forth and look into it a bit and ask any specific questions.

Plant cover is what to plant around and under your ladies as they go stratospheric - compared to these plants that live within inches above and below the soil around your plant. For what they consume and trade back to your plants immediate bio system, well worth considering imho.


Personaly I could use pointers on training still, but am long ways from that this season I think. Snipping fan leaves is easy and Ingot that down. What I am weak on is inducing more branch-out though… or I think I am.
More accurately lollipopping is a method of pruning, in which lower sucker-type branches are selectively removed, in effort to keep the energy of the plant focused toward the highest producing areas.

As far as clover and cover crops, I'm not sure that I would include them in container grows, unless it is a very large container. In a living soil indoor-bed type of situation, I would consider it. Keep in mind that while it's true that clover and other legumes can "fix" or pull nitrogen out of the air and into the soil, it's also true that the cover crop will compete for root space in the grow medium along with the cannabis plant. Typically in agriculture, cover crops are planted between harvest crops, not alongside. Again, if you have a lot of soil to work with, clover could be ok, but if it's just a 5 or 10 gallon pot, I'd keep the clover in the field.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Lolipop is a method of defoliation done to mature plants… where to begin and stop on that topic is impossible, go forth and look into it a bit and ask any specific questions.

Plant cover is what to plant around and under your ladies as they go stratospheric - compared to these plants that live within inches above and below the soil around your plant. For what they consume and trade back to your plants immediate bio system, well worth considering imho.


Personaly I could use pointers on training still, but am long ways from that this season I think. Snipping fan leaves is easy and Ingot that down. What I am weak on is inducing more branch-out though… or I think I am.
Ahh that kind of lolipop.. Yes I'm learning about that, probably going to do something like that, more height, less width.


Hmm, never thought of plant cover.

Would California wildflowers work?

I've got that.


I've seen people plant clovers too.


Thing is I want to work in bi-weekly organic fertilizer, don't know what to do there.

Plant covers would make it harder to work around the soil.
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
I dunno about adding mites and nematodes. I'm already going to be adding the bacteria that eats the gnat larvae. Do I absolutely need nematodes or mites?
You don't need neem or any other oils, nematodes or anything else. I do recommend covering the top of the soil, but not with sand, they can go right thru it, and not with DE, it doesn't work when wet. I am using the fabric from old smart pots cut to fit the top of the pot. This also helps to keep the pot from drying out too quickly.

My gnats came from a bag of Ocean Forest, I am absolutely sure about that. Also, pasteurizing the soil with boiling water works, but you have to get the temperature of the soil up to at least 140-160 degrees F for 15 - 30 minutes, and be sure to stir and mix thoroughly. It is a giant pain in the ass, but it works.

I am looking for a used pressure cooker to make this process easier and fool proof in the future. I also tried cooking the soil in the oven, it takes about 15 minutes at 350 degrees F for 15 minutes, then another 45 minutes at 250 degrees to really get the soil up to 160 F in the center (this was a roasting pan filled with soil). I like the boiling water method better, it makes the soil perfectly moist for transplanting.

I am using Xtreme Gardening HGC721205 Mykos Pure Mycorrhizal Inoculant Organic Root Enhancer, from Amazon, to help the soil:
71pQfcycACL._AC_UL116_SR116,116_.jpg

Be sure to cover any drain holes if you are not using fabric smart pots - the gnats love drain holes, and unless you dunk the pot into the BTi treated water you cannot be sure all the holes will be saturated. I would recommend dunking at least once, I cannot do that because I am disabled and cannot lift a pot that heavy.

Lastly, my experience was by the time I saw a gnat flying around there was a full blown infestation, I just couldn't see it. Once I started putting the yellow sticky traps out, I was catching 15-25 gnats in my traps EVERY SINGLE DAY for 8 weeks in flower (20 gnats x 56 days = 1140 gnats). However, despite catching so many every day, I never actually saw any flying around when I looked in the tent. So, I would bet that you have far more gnats than you realize, something that will become obvious when you put out the traps.
 
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ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
You don't need neem or any other oils, nematodes or anything else. I do recommend covering the top of the soil, but not with sand, they can go right thru it, and not with DE, it doesn't work when wet. I am using the fabric from old smart pots cut to fit the top of the pot. This also helps to keep the pot from drying out too quickly.

My gnats came from a bag of Ocean Forest, I am absolutely sure about that. Also, pasteurizing the soil with boiling water works, but you have to get the temperature of the soil up to at least 140-160 degrees F for 15 - 30 minutes, and be sure to stir and mix thoroughly. It is a giant pain in the ass, but it works.

I am looking for a used pressure cooker to make this process easier and fool proof in the future. I also tried cooking the soil in the oven, it takes about 15 minutes at 350 degrees F for 15 minutes, then another 45 minutes at 250 degrees to really get the soil up to 160 F in the center (this was a roasting pan filled with soil). I like the boiling water method better, it makes the soil perfectly moist for transplanting.

I am using Xtreme Gardening HGC721205 Mykos Pure Mycorrhizal Inoculant Organic Root Enhancer, from Amazon, to help the soil:
View attachment 5094629

Be sure to cover any drain holes if you are not using fabric smart pots - the gnats love drain holes, and unless you dunk the pot into the BTi treated water you cannot be sure all the holes will be saturated. I would recommend dunking at least once, I cannot do that because I am disabled and cannot lift a pot that heavy.

Lastly, my experience was by the time I saw a gnat flying around there was a full blown infestation, I just couldn't see it. Once I started putting the yellow sticky traps out, I was catching 15-25 gnats in my traps EVERY SINGLE DAY for 8 weeks in flower (20 gnats x 56 days = 1140 gnats). However, despite catching so many every day, I never actually saw any flying around when I looked in the tent. So, I would bet that you have far more gnats than you realize, something that will become obvious when you put out the traps.
Actually I'm going to be making my own smart airpot.

I'm going to cut holes in my pots with the drill and then I'm going to put a cotton liner inside of the pot so that the soil will be inside of the liner, all the holes will be covered up with the cotton liner which will then allow the roots to touch the air so that they Branch off and become stronger roots and this keeps things from coming in and out of the holes.

I'll make sure to put some fabric on top.

But I'll have to remove the fabric when I'm working the soil and putting nutrients in.

I like the idea of using fabric as a cover for the top of the soil.

But what about using plants as a cover?
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
Actually I'm going to be making my own smart airpot.

I'm going to cut holes in my pots with the drill and then I'm going to put a cotton liner inside of the pot so that the soil will be inside of the liner, all the holes will be covered up with the cotton liner which will then allow the roots to touch the air so that they Branch off and become stronger roots and this keeps things from coming in and out of the holes.

I'll make sure to put some fabric on top.

But I'll have to remove the fabric when I'm working the soil and putting nutrients in.

I like the idea of using fabric as a cover for the top of the soil.

But what about using plants as a cover?
I wouldn't want any other plants in my tent, but that's me. Regarding the cotton liner, why? Unless it is black, it could grow mold. Just use the smart pots, the drain holes are a pain in the ass and the smart pots do way better for your plants than the air pots. I've tried both, will never use air pots again.
 

rootforme

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't want any other plants in my tent, but that's me. Regarding the cotton liner, why? Unless it is black, it could grow mold. Just use the smart pots, the drain holes are a pain in the ass and the smart pots do way better for your plants than the air pots. I've tried both, will never use air pots again.
I like air pots but you really need IPM because fungus gnats have field days with air pots.
 
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