Lavender, Gnats and Neem Oil?

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
This is from Penn State University Extension Service:

How to Pasteurize Medium and Sterilize Containers and Tools

To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.

Seeds need adequate moisture and optimum temperatures for germination, but these conditions also encourage the spread of disease. To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination, containers and tools should be sterilized and pasteurized or sterile soilless mixes should be used as growing medium.
Damping-off
One potential problem for gardeners who germinate seeds at home is damping-off, a fungus disease that infects seedlings. It is caused by pathogens such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Fusarium and its symptoms include the browning of stems at the soil line. Stems then shrivel, plants topple over, and seedlings die. Infection spreads rapidly, killing most of the seedlings in a tray or flat. Although it is more of a problem on over-watered seedlings in poorly drained soils, even seedlings in medium that drains well can become infected. Thus, it is important to start clean by disinfecting all tools and flats, as well as pasteurizing potting medium or using sterile soilless media to reduce the possibility of damping-off. For more information, refer to the fact sheet entitled: Damping-off of Seeds, Seedlings, and Cuttings .
Pasteurizing Medium
Potting media mixed by home gardeners should be pasteurized to kill weed seeds, soil-borne insects, and pathogens. Pasteurization destroys most organisms and is done by applying heat until the soil reaches 180oF (82oC) for 30 minutes. When temperatures are raised above 212oF (100oC), most of the soil borne organisms are killed and the soil is considered sterile. Gardeners can pasteurize homemade potting soils using a kitchen oven; however, a long-lasting earthy odor can develop in the oven. To pasteurize soil, preheat the oven to 180oF. Then fill a pan with about 4 inches of moist soil and cover it with aluminum foil. Insert a candy or meat thermometer to monitor temperature and place the pan in the oven. When the thermometer reads 180oF, leave the pan in the oven for 30 minutes longer, then remove it and allow the soil to cool. Seeds can then be sown in the soil, or it can be used as a transplant medium for seedlings.
Sterilize Containers and Tools
Efforts to pasteurize soil are in vain if contaminated tools, seed flats, or pots are used. Each should be disinfected by soaking it for 30 minutes in a 10% solution of chlorine bleach (one part bleach and nine parts water). Tools and containers should then be rinsed and allowed to dry before using them again.
Pre-sterilized Potting Soil or Soilless Mix and Containers
Instead of pasteurizing soil in the kitchen, most gardeners have chosen to purchase either presterilized, ready-mixed potting soil or sterile soilless mix. In addition, new plastic or fiber disposable trays and sterilizing previously used containers.

Prepared by Phyllis Lamont, consumer horticulture center library coordinator, Kathleen M. Kelley, assistant professor of consumer horticulture and James C. Sellmer, associate professor of ornamental horticulture

My two cents: If you google search you will find plenty of commercial gardening operations that all pasteurize the soil. That's why I started doing it. I looked for potting soil that was already pasteurized, I couldn't find any on the market.

They don't seem to be worried about killing any beneficial microbes. Neither am I.

Incidentally, I am having the best results I've ever had, after pasteurizing the soil. But that's totally anecdotal.
Dude, did you read the first line of what you quoted there??:

"To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination.."

Sure, for seedlings during germination if you are worried about damping off, go ahead and sterilize your media. Once you are past the seedling stage, you are harming your soil (assuming this is a soil-type grow) by pasteurizing it, and in turn doing your plants a disservice. Just grow in coco if you want a sterile media. Much of the nutrition is soil-type grows come directly from the microbes you are wanting to kill. It's literally their poop that is feeding your plants,.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
So...I got all the Organic Soil Treated and I poured the Mosquito Bits tea and dumped all my soil, packed it into my ice cooler.

This way it gets a good drench..

Going to let that sit for a while.

The only soil that I have left is the jiffy seed starter mix which is all still dry but they might be in there and then I have some vermiculite too which I have to open and investigate to see if they got into there so hopefully I'll get this handled.

Everything is going to get mixed up anyways to even amounts.

The plan is to put the seeds starting mix soil couple of inches on top of the cannabis so that it has a good medium to germinate in and the rest will be a mixture.

☮☮☮View attachment 5095823
Actually I did pasteurize the used soil that I got just not the brand new ones.

I definitely clean all of my pots and my tools but I absolutely should be diligent even more so about that.

I got a whole bunch of free used pots and a couple of pots that were $1.50 and I made sure to completely sanitize everything.

Appreciate this response because I learned some new things.

When I'm done with the growing season I'm going to pasteurize all of that soil and reuse it again, I think as long as you keep pasteurizing the soil it's beneficial to use it over a few times.

But I wonder when the point comes when you can no longer use the original soil that you used?
Don't let it sit long in a drench, you will kill your aerobic microbes (the good guys), and encourage anaerobic microbes (the bad guys). Good guys need air to survive. Bad guys don't.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Dude, did you read the first line of what you quoted there??:

"To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination.."

Sure, for seedlings during germination if you are worried about damping off, go ahead and sterilize your media. Once you are past the seedling stage, you are harming your soil (assuming this is a soil-type grow) by pasteurizing it, and in turn doing your plants a disservice. Just grow in coco if you want a sterile media. Much of the nutrition is soil-type grows come directly from the microbes you are wanting to kill. It's literally their poop that is feeding your plants,.
Yep. Not planning on sterilizing my soil.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Get Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide, and spray your plants with it at week 3 of flowering and it will help to resist mold and mildew. It contains a bacteria which eats fungi. Citric acid is a cheap easy and natural way to clean your surrounding areas as well. You can also use it to kill bugs on your cannabis. Just get some critic acid powder from your local health food store in bulk for cheap, and mix with water. I forget the ratio, but it's not much, I think like a tsp/liter.
Can I make a tea with that fungicide to treat my soil? Since it's also a bacteria?

I ask because I already have a little powdery mold occasionally trying to assert itself on my primrose.

Wondering if this would be good to either sprinkle in the soil or make a tea drench.

Spraying it on the leaves during flowering though? How do I do that, is that safe at that point? I mean would I want to smoke the bacteria?

I know that the mosquito bits chunks can cause mold , so just wondering.


I added some baking soda to my primrose and that seems to have helped with the mold build up. ☮
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Can I make a tea with that fungicide to treat my soil? Since it's also a bacteria?

I ask because I already have a little powdery mold occasionally trying to assert itself on my primrose.

Wondering if this would be good to either sprinkle in the soil or make a tea drench.

Spraying it on the leaves during flowering though? How do I do that, is that safe at that point? I mean would I want to smoke the bacteria?

I know that the mosquito bits chunks can cause mold , so just wondering.


I added some baking soda to my primrose and that seems to have helped with the mold build up. ☮
The best thing you can do for your soil is to not keep it too wet. I would just spray the southern ag on the leaves first. Yeah, at 3-weeks the buds are just starting to form. Bacteria is everywhere. If you don't want to smoke bacteria you will need to irradiate your weed, sprayed or not. In fact airborn bacteria is largely what's responsible for a good cure. I grow in coco mostly, and do use southern ag gff in with my feed to keep the res naturally clean and fungus at bay.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
The best thing you can do for your soil is to not keep it too wet. I would just spray the southern ag on the leaves and soil surface first. Yeah, at 3-weeks the buds are just starting to form. Bacteria is everywhere. If you don't want to smoke bacteria you will need to irradiate your weed, sprayed or not. In fact airborn bacteria is largely what's responsible for a good cure. I grow in coco mostly, and do use southern ag gff in with my feed to keep the res naturally clean and fungus at bay.
Alright cool, so it keeps the bad fungus and the bad bacteria away, but good bacteria still gets on the buds huh?

Yeah I guess that makes sense I never thought about that.

Just like yeast curing alcohol.

When would I want to stop applying that fungicide on my flowers?
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Alright cool, so it keeps the bad fungus and the bad bacteria away, but good bacteria still gets on the buds huh?

Yeah I guess that makes sense I never thought about that.

Just like yeast curing alcohol.

When would I want to stop applying that fungicide on my flowers?
I don't spray past 3-weeks of flowering.

Here's a snip from: https://www.greenhousegrower.com/production/why-curing-cannabis-is-critical-to-plant-quality/

Screenshot - 2022-03-04T001932.711.png

As far as microbes, just remember air = good, no air = bad. Same reason to turn your compost pile regularly.
 

Driver733

Well-Known Member
Alright cool, so it keeps the bad fungus and the bad bacteria away, but good bacteria still gets on the buds huh?

Yeah I guess that makes sense I never thought about that.

Just like yeast curing alcohol.

When would I want to stop applying that fungicide on my flowers?
Okay, am I missing something here? I thought you guys wanted to be organic, yet you would rather apply fungicide than simply pasteurize the soil to treat the problem?

Dude, did you read the first line of what you quoted there??:

"To increase the survival rate for seedlings during germination.."

Sure, for seedlings during germination if you are worried about damping off, go ahead and sterilize your media. Once you are past the seedling stage, you are harming your soil (assuming this is a soil-type grow) by pasteurizing it, and in turn doing your plants a disservice. Just grow in coco if you want a sterile media. Much of the nutrition is soil-type grows come directly from the microbes you are wanting to kill. It's literally their poop that is feeding your plants,.
They are not talking strictly about germination, that was just the beginning part of the article.

Here is page after page talking about soil pastuerization vs. sterilization.


Whatever, think what you want. I tried to help, have fun with the gnats.
 

rootforme

Well-Known Member
I don't know how many times I have to say it but I feel like a broken record you just need to buy beneficial nematodes and leave your soil alone and stop killing everything in it this is not crop dusting this is not big agriculture where you kill everything in the field the good with the bad please leave your soil alone and just add beneficial nematodes and you will have no more pest problems..
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Okay, am I missing something here? I thought you guys wanted to be organic, yet you would rather apply fungicide than simply pasteurize the soil to treat the problem?


They are not talking strictly about germination, that was just the beginning part of the article.

Here is page after page talking about soil pastuerization vs. sterilization.


Whatever, think what you want. I tried to help, have fun with the gnats.
The fungicide is organic, OMRI certified. It's just a bacteria. I know what I'm talking about, you are googling things that you don't understand. Also, I don't have gnats.
I don't know how many times I have to say it but I feel like a broken record you just need to buy beneficial nematodes and leave your soil alone and stop killing everything in it this is not crop dusting this is not big agriculture where you kill everything in the field the good with the bad please leave your soil alone and just add beneficial nematodes and you will have no more pest problems..
I love me some nematodes, I buy them once or twice a year.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Okay, am I missing something here? I thought you guys wanted to be organic, yet you would rather apply fungicide than simply pasteurize the soil to treat the problem?


They are not talking strictly about germination, that was just the beginning part of the article.

Here is page after page talking about soil pastuerization vs. sterilization.


Whatever, think what you want. I tried to help, have fun with the gnats.

I'm talking about adding more BACTERIA.... Just like the MOSQUITO BITS are BACTERIA.

THIS IS ORGANIC.
Screenshot_2022-03-04-10-13-45-675.jpg
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
The fungicide is organic, OMRI certified. It's just a bacteria. I know what I'm talking about, you are googling things that you don't understand. Also, I don't have gnats.

I love me some nematodes, I buy them once or twice a year.

STOP

Driver WAS RESPONDING TO ME.

I'M THE ONE WITH THE GNAT PROBLEM.

They didn't understand that you and I were still discussing Using more Bacteria.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
I don't know how many times I have to say it but I feel like a broken record you just need to buy beneficial nematodes and leave your soil alone and stop killing everything in it this is not crop dusting this is not big agriculture where you kill everything in the field the good with the bad please leave your soil alone and just add beneficial nematodes and you will have no more pest problems..
I'm USING BENEFICIAL BACTERIA.

EVERYTHING IS STILL ORGANIC.
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
The fungicide is organic, OMRI certified. It's just a bacteria. I know what I'm talking about, you are googling things that you don't understand. Also, I don't have gnats.

I love me some nematodes, I buy them once or twice a year.
I may still buy nematodes, but will they interact well with the existing bacteria?
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Can't believe I woke up to people misunderstanding things in this thread.

Please don't do that folks.☮

My heart really can't take it.

Just looking for some ☮☮☮

And some magical organic growing methods.☮☮☮
 

ShawnSunshine

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you'll also kill all of your beneficial insects, bacteria, and microbes. That's the last thing you want to do with soil. If it was coco, I could see pasteurization being positive, but not in a soil-type medium.

So Pasteurizing and Sterilizing kills beneficial bacteria?
Oof

From Amazon:

Summit Chemical Mosquito Bits is specially designed to provide optimal environmentally sound biological mosquito control. The quick acting formula kills mosquito larvae within 24 hours. EPA registered in all 50 states for safe, convenient use. Available in a 30 ounce size.


Mosquito Bits 'Quick Kill'
Marshy swampy areas inundated with larvae? Sprinkle Mosquito Bits (Quick Kill) as a shock to quickly annihilate the larval population. Corn cob granules coated in BTI, the Bits (do not last long but) provide a punch, turning water black with larvae, to a clear pool void of future mosquitoes. A week after application either supplement with Mosquito Dunks, for long term control or continue to add Bits on a bi-weekly basis. The Mosquito Bits are labeled to control Fungus Gnats in plant beds or pots! Utilizing a similar mode of action for control of mosquito larvae, the Bits, either sprinkled on the soil's surface or mixed with potting soil prior to planting will kill fungus gnat larvae with the same safety and target specific control offered for mosquito larvae.

My impression: it is the only thing that works well and will not contaminate or harm your plants!

Thanks again. ☮
 
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Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
I've spent the last few months battling a fungus gnat infestation. They love drain holes, this was my first and last time using air pots.
View attachment 5094042
As you can see, I tried using mosquito netting to keep the gnats from getting in and out of the pots, but they seemed to go right thru the net.

I am back to using fabric smart pots, but I still had to use the Mosquito Bits. This is what I used:
View attachment 5094047
I use the Bits now with every watering. I still found a new gnat yesterday.

I am also using fabric from old smart pots cut to fit the top of the plant, to cover the top layer of soil. I can remove it to water.

FYI: I also tried spinosad soap (no effect) and Microbe Lift Mosquito Control (also didn't work for me).
View attachment 5094052

I did not try need oil since they were in flower the entire time. I also did not try DE (diatomaceous earth) since the holes in the sides of the air pots were like Hotel California for the gnats, and I couldn't get the DE into the holes so it seemed pointless. That's why I tried the netting. In hindsight, I should've stuck the airpots inside smart pots to keep the gnats from accessing the side drain holes. As I said, never again, smart pots from now on.

Fortunately, the final harvest was good but as you can see, the plants were affected:
View attachment 5094049View attachment 5094050

Be sure to keep plenty of yellow sticky traps. By the time you see a gnat flying around, there are many more eggs and larvae waiting to destroy your roots.
Dealing with these problems, used some of the same stuff, but not mosquito bites... Will grab some today!!!
 
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