How do my plants look?
- Thread starter Hydro_guy
- Start date
70's natureboy
Well-Known Member
They should snap out of it. My environment is the same as yours except for HID lights. RO water?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Agreed. It's a bit cold for LED lighting too, I'd try to get temps up another 5-degrees.
Yes RODI water
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
Too much light and too much nutrients.
Where should my LED settings be? And my nuts ppm?
What?
Same
Nope
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
and they are still around 900ish? if so, i'd dump half the res out or more and add plain RO til you are around 200ppms.
Roadblock007
Well-Known Member
They are not feeding properly, they are establishing to the conditions, if the root system is struggling with the demand put on the plant it will show nutrient deficiencies or toxicities which doesn't mean the food is wrong or that you need additives. Often unless you have any serious water air temp humidity issues they will settle down and adapt, then they assimilate the nutrient and grow normally.
Young plants need low demand to establish, low feed 200-500 ppm on the 500 scale with kelp-fulvic the only additives, 50% of full lighting for the first week or 2, temp-humidity dialed in so they don't get over hot or over cold, when they hit the go button you can up the lights.
No matter what you give them if the plant's metabolism is not firing on all cylinders it will show all sorts of nutrient problems, its not that the nutrient is not available its that the plant is not established and feeding, its like overfeeding a dog that has bad diarrhea, no nutrients will be taken in by the dog it will actually cause stripping of nutrients.
Your plants are turgid if they weren't and were looking sad with droop that means you have root issues either rot, not much root mass or water balance within the plant, so your good there, I would lower the ppm when its to high it will pull nutrient out of the plant, so lower ppms and foliar feed with a very weak base nutrient 100 pmm and mist daily, lower your light intensity at the canopy, I find it better to be brighter and much higher than duller and close, my cuttings at the same stage as you are under full power but are 8ft away from the light source, dimming works fine I just like them way up and full power.
Then just wait them out only takes a week or so if you fix whats going on, if conditions were perfect they would power up right away, Im going through the same thing caused by me over watering the coco and pushing them a bit too hard too early, they are turgid and have pale twisted leaves and by backing of they are now starting to power up and get the right color and shape, many growers tend to start adding all sorts of things when the plant shows anything but perfect leaves, the vast majority of the time its not lacking anything its just not feeding fully, the plant is a pump that can bog down for mechanical reasons that cause the plant to slow down its metabolism, just think of pump with blocked pipes, toxic buildup and unbalance, open the pipes up fully meaning big roots, big ventilation, big lights, and a ppm that the plant assimilates and one can grow fantastic plants from using pretty much any quality base nutrient on its own.
Young plants need low demand to establish, low feed 200-500 ppm on the 500 scale with kelp-fulvic the only additives, 50% of full lighting for the first week or 2, temp-humidity dialed in so they don't get over hot or over cold, when they hit the go button you can up the lights.
No matter what you give them if the plant's metabolism is not firing on all cylinders it will show all sorts of nutrient problems, its not that the nutrient is not available its that the plant is not established and feeding, its like overfeeding a dog that has bad diarrhea, no nutrients will be taken in by the dog it will actually cause stripping of nutrients.
Your plants are turgid if they weren't and were looking sad with droop that means you have root issues either rot, not much root mass or water balance within the plant, so your good there, I would lower the ppm when its to high it will pull nutrient out of the plant, so lower ppms and foliar feed with a very weak base nutrient 100 pmm and mist daily, lower your light intensity at the canopy, I find it better to be brighter and much higher than duller and close, my cuttings at the same stage as you are under full power but are 8ft away from the light source, dimming works fine I just like them way up and full power.
Then just wait them out only takes a week or so if you fix whats going on, if conditions were perfect they would power up right away, Im going through the same thing caused by me over watering the coco and pushing them a bit too hard too early, they are turgid and have pale twisted leaves and by backing of they are now starting to power up and get the right color and shape, many growers tend to start adding all sorts of things when the plant shows anything but perfect leaves, the vast majority of the time its not lacking anything its just not feeding fully, the plant is a pump that can bog down for mechanical reasons that cause the plant to slow down its metabolism, just think of pump with blocked pipes, toxic buildup and unbalance, open the pipes up fully meaning big roots, big ventilation, big lights, and a ppm that the plant assimilates and one can grow fantastic plants from using pretty much any quality base nutrient on its own.
Idk if this matters? But I have 3 strains, chemdawg, lsd, and green crack. Not sure if any of them are nute hogs?
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Are they from seed?
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
The clone only Chem 91 was demanding in flower. Liked lots of P and K.