Meanwell HLG-240H-2100A On/Off Switch

Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
I'm wanting to put on/off switches on all of my drivers. Each driver is powering (2) Quantum Board QB288 boards wired in series. My drivers are outside of my grow space and I would like the on/off switches installed in my grow room.

I don't care too much what style of switch I get, but something like this is what I'm thinking:

The datasheet on the driver says the output is 119V DC at 2.1 amps.
I don't know exactly what I'm looking for...I assumed a 120V DC switch.

Anyone done this?
 
C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
Hot Diggity Sog said:
I'm wanting to put on/off switches on all of my drivers. Each driver is powering (2) Quantum Board QB288 boards wired in series. My drivers are outside of my grow space and I would like the on/off switches installed in my grow room.

I don't care too much what style of switch I get, but something like this is what I'm thinking:

The datasheet on the driver says the output is 119V DC at 2.1 amps.
I don't know exactly what I'm looking for...I assumed a 120V DC switch.

Anyone done this?
Click to expand...
Should work fine. Just wire in series (can insert switch further down the power lead so it's inside tent).
Screenshot_2022-04-07-04-23-44-1.png
 
C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
Hot Diggity Sog said:
Only 1 wire would be needed on the switch? Driver Out (+) to switch, right?
Click to expand...
Yep you got it. Doesnt matter if you add the switch to the positive driver lead or negative driver lead, but you essentially just lengthen one of the leads by adding the switch onto the end of it, or you can splice the switch somewhere in the middle of one of the driver leads as shown in the pic.
Screenshot_2022-04-07-05-25-21-1.png

*
The ONLY thing you CAN'T do is connect the driver leads to each other via the switch (purple "X" labeled NO!).
 
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Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
Chain'r up Chip said:
Yep you got it. Doesnt matter if you add the switch to the positive driver lead or negative driver lead, but you essentially just lengthen one of the leads by adding the switch onto the end of it, or you can splice the switch somewhere in the middle of one of the driver leads as shown in the pic.
View attachment 5114509

*
The ONLY thing you CAN'T do is connect the driver leads to each other via the switch (purple "X" labeled NO!).
Click to expand...
Awesome, thank you!!!
 
S

Sinfor

Well-Known Member
OP don't use that switch, first you are exceeding the ratings for which the switch was designed, normally an AC switch have a rating of 1/10 or even 1/20 for DC voltage. The reason for this is the arc produced when you switch off. For DC the arc is greater than AC, so the switch must be able to handle it.
DC switches are expensives but instead you can use a MOSFET or a SSR relay.

A couple of videos showing the hazard you will be facing using that switch.
 
C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
Sinfor said:
OP don't use that switch, first you are exceeding the ratings for which the switch was designed, normally an AC switch have a rating of 1/10 or even 1/20 for DC voltage. The reason for this is the arc produced when you switch off. For DC the arc is greater than AC, so the switch must be able to handle it.
DC switches are expensives but instead you can use a MOSFET or a SSR relay.

A couple of videos showing the hazard you will be facing using that switch.
Click to expand...
He's at 120VDC & 2A max (240W, and LED boards aren't inductive loads, though that doesn't completely rule out the possibility of inductive arching, yet) while smallest test in vid was 250VDC 3.5A (875W; and decently inductive load, notice no spark on close event despite having 250VDC, 2× what OP has, while large arc on open event = inductive circuit). And yes, ideally you'd want to switch the AC side but OP wants switches in his tent (DC side).

ALL mechanical switches regulating load power (inductive circuits) will have an arc upon human powered open event, just the nature of the beast. The greater the circuit's inductance (over capacitance) the greater the arc event. I'd assume he may have to replace a switch or 2 every 3-4 years or so, but they don't look spendy, thats why I think they'd work "fine."

Alternatively one could add an RC snubber in parallel to the switch (which is commonly implemented when dealing with inductive voltage spikes) and then you'd not have to worry about arc, though just adding a solid state switch will not get rid of inductive voltage spikes (which can damage MOSFET's) and the solid state route also needs low voltage power to control it and/or add other components/circuits.

@Hot Diggity Sog, if you notice arc and want to arrest it, add an RC snubber in parallel with the switch. Try a 0.1μF film cap (rated 400V or more) and maybe 60-120Ω R underneath it. The component values are (also) influenced by the circuit inductance which we don't know atm, so these are just ballpark guesses. I don't foresee any big issues if you don't use a snubber but if you do notice some arcing and want your switches to last longer, @Sinfor is right, you'd want a snubber. LEDs are typically thought of as capacitive loads but there may be inductance before the switch (in the driver) that may want to cause arcing at open event (turn OFF). It's pretty easy just to wack one in there, otherwise I'd just repair as needed. Also can look at MOV's.

*
Could add 100k-1MΩ R across snub cap to eliminate high snub cap voltage (could cause possible arc) at switch close event (turn ON).

**
Here you go, $1.50, this one comes with a MOV too:
www.ebay.com

RC Snubber Module Relay Contact Protection Circuit Electromagnetic | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RC Snubber Module Relay Contact Protection Circuit Electromagnetic at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
 
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Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
Chain'r up Chip said:
He's at 120VDC & 2A max (240W, and LED boards aren't inductive loads, though that doesn't completely rule out the possibility of inductive arching, yet) while smallest test in vid was 250VDC 3.5A (875W; and decently inductive load, notice no spark on close event despite having 250VDC, 2× what OP has, while large arc on open event = inductive circuit). And yes, ideally you'd want to switch the AC side but OP wants switches in his tent (DC side).

ALL mechanical switches regulating load power (inductive circuits) will have an arc upon human powered open event, just the nature of the beast. The greater the circuit's inductance (over capacitance) the greater the arc event. I'd assume he may have to replace a switch or 2 every 3-4 years or so, but they don't look spendy, thats why I think they'd work "fine."

Alternatively one could add an RC snubber in parallel to the switch (which is commonly implemented when dealing with inductive voltage spikes) and then you'd not have to worry about arc, though just adding a solid state switch will not get rid of inductive voltage spikes (which can damage MOSFET's) and the solid state route also needs low voltage power to control it and/or add other components/circuits.

@Hot Diggity Sog, if you notice arc and want to arrest it, add an RC snubber in parallel with the switch. Try a 0.1μF film cap (rated 400V or more) and maybe 60-120Ω R underneath it. The component values are (also) influenced by the circuit inductance which we don't know atm, so these are just ballpark guesses. I don't foresee any big issues if you don't use a snubber but if you do notice some arcing and want your switches to last longer, @Sinfor is right, you'd want a snubber. LEDs are typically thought of as capacitive loads but there may be inductance before the switch (in the driver) that may want to cause arcing at open event (turn OFF). It's pretty easy just to wack one in there, otherwise I'd just repair as needed. Also can look at MOV's.

*
Could add 100k-1MΩ R across snub cap to eliminate high snub cap voltage (could cause possible arc) at switch close event (turn ON).

**
Here you go, $1.50, this one comes with a MOV too:
www.ebay.com

RC Snubber Module Relay Contact Protection Circuit Electromagnetic | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for RC Snubber Module Relay Contact Protection Circuit Electromagnetic at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I ordered some of these. Do I have the wiring correct?
Quantum Board Switch.jpg
 
CWF

CWF

Well-Known Member
No. You show the snubber in series with the switch, when it should be in parallel.

I don't recommend switching the DC because of reasons already posted.
 
C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
Hot Diggity Sog said:
I have the AC side on timers. Most of my boards are overhead but I have 4 that are mounted horizontally at eye-level. These won't be used until mid-flower and I would like the ability to switch them on and off from inside of my room.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_2022-04-20-02-26-31-1.png = Screenshot_2022-04-20-02-33-55-1.png, both of these show the switch and snub wired in parallel with each other. You have to wire the snub in parallel with the switch. You can move the snub/switch anywhere along one of the transmission lines though. Ideally you'd want to switch the AC side, but adding Ω to load (DC side) shouldn't mess up the driver. If its cc type, then upon OFF event, it will ramp up to its open loop voltage and work to maintain, and if it's cv (and at OFF event) it'll work to maintain its set or rated working voltage. You'll still use a little electricity when DC switch is OFF (driver caps leak and need recharging, plus monitoring circuitry uses a little juice) but bc you're not flowing any current on the DC side the electricity used will be negligent.

I've assumed you're using 240h c2100's, the open circuit voltage is listed at 122VDC. This means at turn ON event, your QBs will be subjected to a pulse of high voltage/current, this is the only issue I see. I've personally detached and reattached my boards while the driver is still on with no issues myself, though I imagine consistent events like this will wear the chips faster. The chips are rated for a maximum pulse current of 300mA (not sure the Vf at this current and couldn't find), which equals 4.8A for the entire QB while the driver is only rated for 2.1A. This means you may see a pulse at turn ON event and could wear your QBs faster. A work around is adding series inductance or other transient limiting circuitry but it's starting to get more and more complicated. Its not the ideal way to switch the QBs ON or OFF, but I think it will still work ok.

Alternatively check out SONOFFs, or other IoT switches that allow you to turn your drivers ON/OFF at the AC side via your smartphone and existing Wi-Fi network or through a hardline signal wire (no phone or Wi-Fi needed, but may need a small power brick to provide the "high" signal). Could run your signal wire along DC power leads to camoflauge it a bit. This way you'd still have a switch inside the tent but be able to cut power at the AC side.
 
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Hot Diggity Sog

Hot Diggity Sog

Well-Known Member
Chain'r up Chip said:
View attachment 5121504 = View attachment 5121505, both of these show the switch and snub wired in parallel with each other. You have to wire the snub in parallel with the switch. You can move the snub/switch anywhere along one of the transmission lines though. Ideally you'd want to switch the AC side, but adding Ω to load (DC side) shouldn't mess up the driver. If its cc type, then upon OFF event, it will ramp up to its open loop voltage and work to maintain, and if it's cv (and at OFF event) it'll work to maintain its set or rated working voltage. You'll still use a little electricity when DC switch is OFF (driver caps leak and need recharging, plus monitoring circuitry uses a little juice) but bc you're not flowing any current on the DC side the electricity used will be negligent.

I've assumed you're using 240h c2100's, the open circuit voltage is listed at 122VDC. This means at turn ON event, your QBs will be subjected to a pulse of high voltage/current, this is the only issue I see. I've personally detached and reattached my boards while the driver is still on with no issues myself, though I imagine consistent events like this will wear the chips faster. The chips are rated for a maximum pulse current of 300mA (not sure the Vf at this current and couldn't find), which equals 4.8A for the entire QB while the driver is only rated for 2.1A. This means you may see a pulse at turn ON event and could wear your QBs faster. A work around is adding series inductance or other transient limiting circuitry but it's starting to get more and more complicated. Its not the ideal way to switch the QBs ON or OFF, but I think it will still work ok.

Alternatively check out SONOFFs, or other IoT switches that allow you to turn your drivers ON/OFF at the AC side via your smartphone and existing Wi-Fi network or through a hardline signal wire (no phone or Wi-Fi needed). You could run your signal wire right along-side your DC power leads (so it'd look less messy and kind of hide/camouflage the signal wire) so that you could cut AC power from DC side.
Click to expand...
Alright...I'm starting to not like my original idea of controlling via the DC side.
SONOFFs look pretty cool. Maybe something along these lines?
itead.cc

SONOFF BASICR2- WiFi Wireless Smart Switch

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C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
Hot Diggity Sog said:
Alright...I'm starting to not like my original idea of controlling via the DC side.
SONOFFs look pretty cool. Maybe something along these lines?
itead.cc

SONOFF BASICR2- WiFi Wireless Smart Switch

【Safe And Reliable】ETL, CE, FCC, and RoHS certifications ensure a safer and more reliable product. 【Easily DIY Your Smart Home Appliances】Connect BASICR2 directly to the middle of the power supply …
itead.cc itead.cc
Click to expand...
I use SONOFFs, but the one drawback is needing internet connection. Some people are weary of 3rd party apps and data mining but for me they work great.

I buy 16A extension cords and then cut the plug off maybe 1ft away from the end, and then splice SONOFF in between. That way I can plug anything into the extension cord and it makes it a bit more universal, can turn ON/OFF multiple items with 1 SONOFF extension cord.

When the extension cord is plugged into the wall socket the SONOFF powers up, and after you've downloaded the app and followed pairing instructions you can use your phone to manage the SONOFF. Set timers, ect.
 
C

Chain'r up Chip

Member
@Hot Diggity Sog I shoulda just mentioned alternative methods before going down the lesser rabbit hole. Sorry. Tbh I wasn't even thinking about alternatives, just trying to accomplish the original goal (and I still think it will work), but there are other more optimal ways. Switching AC side is ideal.
 
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