VincenzioVonHook
Well-Known Member
You'll need a whole ass wetsuit under it as well while your at it. The swamp runs deep.Alright.... went and got the waders on.
You'll need a whole ass wetsuit under it as well while your at it. The swamp runs deep.Alright.... went and got the waders on.
My ass in June.You'll need a whole ass wetsuit under it as well while your at it. The swamp runs deep.
I wouldn't transplants such a small seedling, to big pot. Maybe the soil is to hot for it's fragile roots?
Are planning to grow only those two leaves or are you expecting something more out of this poor thing?
Why would you top and transplant a plant that's like a week old, if that??
Doomed from the start imo. Topped and huge pot, double slow down. Soon too drown im thinking but good luck with it
I want to address the people who are making fun of me and saying I killed the baby.Why did you cut everything off but two fan leaves? I'm not sure if that plant will grow anymore, might need to start over and just leave the next one alone to grow until it's a decent size.
I can only speak for myself, but my comment wasn't meant to insult you, it was to help you.I want to address the people who are making fun of me and saying I killed the baby.
Things I know for sure: Transplanting a small plant to a big container doesn't kill, damage or do anything bad to the plant. I prefer transplanting only once as I know it stresses my plants. Also my training method requires one early transplant so this has to be done anyway. The pictures were before watering so it's just dry soil.
I cut everything off but two fan leaves. Those fan leaves will go soon too when the two new points of growth develop enough. This is not random, I use a specific training technique that works like this and it will grow just fine. The plant has to be topped asap for this, some even do it earlier than me.
I had happy frog and a bit of ocean forest left. The pot is 7 gallons. There was exactly one gallon of OF left which I used and the rest is HF mixed with a gallon pot filled with perlite dropped on top. The most important thing for me is to add a healthy amount of perlite to whatever soil I get.
Now for the dubious stuff, there is also 1tbsp of dolomite per gallon mixed in it (I know, I have read all of material on why some people consider it the devil but my growths always work better with it) and a cup of diatomaceous earth. I also had some myco that I wanted to use as it has been sitting there for a while so I just mixed a few tablespoons of dr. marijane into the soil and great white on the transplant site. These were given to me and I need my shelf space so I'm just putting them in.
I'll keep you guys updated with pics of the growth.
As I said, early transplanting and topping are required for my training method.I can only speak for myself, but my comment wasn't meant to insult you, it was to help you.
If you're going to transplant a week old plant why not just start it in the larger container?
The point of transplanting is letting the plant create a healthy and filled root ball and then move it to a larger container.
Topping is high stress training, it'll eventually "grow just fine" but you temporarily stunted it's growth performing it on such a young and small plant.
You seem very sure of your skills and things you know for sure. I guess you don't need the help, good luck.
And what exactly is the transplanting required for?As I said, early transplanting and topping are required for my training method.
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I appreciate your dedication to training.As I said, early transplanting and topping are required for my training method.
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usually you top above the 2 side sprouts soo they can grow and become new tops. leafs dont grow in to new braches sadly. looks like you ended her.I both transplanted and topped today. Plant is much closer to the light now. The praying position has reached an extreme. What does this mean?
Right after transplant
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Hours later
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It is topped above the 2 side sprouts usually you top above the 2 side sprouts soo they can grow and become new tops. leafs dont grow in to new braches sadly. looks like you ended her.
Man the amount of so-called experts that like to wade in with BS comments amazes me.It is topped above the 2 side sprouts
I would back off with the lights. They look stressed and light bleached. More is not better when it comes to light intensity in veg.As I said, early transplanting and topping are required for my training method.
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Exactly which BS comments?Man the amount of so-called experts that like to wade in with BS comments amazes me.
I dabble in autos and starting them off in their forever pot gets the best results for indoors. Outside in the ground they do the best.
Growing autos indoors isn't bad advice, just because you "don't get it". Everyone has different needs, environment, and equipment for growing.There was certainly a time when starting auto's in their final pots was considered good practice. I don't know if that's still the case or not, they have progressed quite a bit since I've grown them.
Starting seeds in large pots is not a problem if you don't over water. It's really not hard, it just takes a little more care. I wouldn't call it "wrong".
I could rant about how growing auto's indoors is bad advice but I'll leave that alone, people seem to like them lol. I just don't get it.
It costs 50%-100% more to grow auto's indoors and that's just the electricity. It's 50%-100% more wear and tear on your lights. If an LED fixture is rated for 50,000 hours and performs to that standard than you can grow 50% of the amount of plants with that same light (on a 24 hour cycle). Pumps? Timers?Growing autos indoors isn't bad advice, just because you "don't get it". Everyone has different needs, environment, and equipment for growing.
I sometimes use 12/12 with autos. They still start flowering a couple of weeks earlier that way than a photo 12/12 from seed. This round I took a Sour Stomper plant 20 days before the first photo was ripe enough to harvest. Started at the same time. I personally don't have to justify growing autos, after 15 years with them I don't need to reconsider anything lol.It costs 50%-100% more to grow auto's indoors and that's just the electricity. It's 50%-100% more wear and tear on your lights. If an LED fixture is rated for 50,000 hours and performs to that standard than you can grow 50% of the amount of plants with that same light (on a 24 hour cycle). Pumps? Timers?
You can start a photo on 12/12 you can train it, top it, spit on it, do whatever and you won't risk sending it into flower when it's the size of a toothpick and if you like it you can actually keep it... You can focus on maximizing the potential of your chosen cultivar instead of playing crap shoot every round of whether it's ditch weed ruderalis genetics shine through or if you actually get what you want...
Why spend more to grow a lesser quality end product?
Outdoors? makes a lot of sense, there's a large portion of this planet that can not grow outdoors. Indoors? You might as well take the cost per gram of growing a photoperiod and double to triple it.
You can train, top, or spit on autoflowers if you'd like as well. Not sure why you think photos are special in that regard.It costs 50%-100% more to grow auto's indoors and that's just the electricity. It's 50%-100% more wear and tear on your lights. If an LED fixture is rated for 50,000 hours and performs to that standard than you can grow 50% of the amount of plants with that same light (on a 24 hour cycle). Pumps? Timers?
You can start a photo on 12/12 you can train it, top it, spit on it, do whatever and you won't risk sending it into flower when it's the size of a toothpick and if you like it you can actually keep it... You can focus on maximizing the potential of your chosen cultivar instead of playing crap shoot every round of whether it's ditch weed ruderalis genetics shine through or if you actually get what you want...
Why spend more to grow a lesser quality end product?
Outdoors? makes a lot of sense, there's a large portion of this planet that can not grow outdoors. Indoors? You might as well take the cost per gram of growing a photoperiod and double to triple it.