Magnesium Deficiency or something else?

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Hey y'all, just looking to confirm or deny my instinct on this one. I think it's a magnesium issue, but I'd love some other opinions.

I've done a bunch of auto runs , and didn't have anything like this, but these are Durban Poison photos. I'm only doing 2 right now, one shows no problems, this one has started to get some spots and starting with some interveinal chlorosis. Spotting started a few weeks back before moving to Blumats

Deets:
-2x Durban Poison from seed.
-Currently in week 6 of veg.
-ProMix HP+ in 5g bags
-Had been doing a feed/water alternation schedule, but now am using Blumats for drip water/feed.
-Tent Temps: 82-85 during the light, and 78-81 during dark.
-Tent Humidity: 58RH during light, 64ish in the dark.
-AC-I 6" fans, intake/exhaust based at level 1, triggered for hum./temp.two 6" circulation fans.
-Lights are HLG 225's and currently at 640umol at canopy height
-Water is our well water, PPM @ 240 right now. pH is adjusted down to between 6.3 & 6.5pH.
-Feeding MaxiGrow/Bloom. I'd been using Gro until this week, when I'm doing 2/3 Gro, 1/3 Bloom to transition to all bloom.
-Before Blumats I'd been doing 6g MaxiGro + 1g Epsom salts per gallon.
-With Blumats I've halved that, 3g per gallon Maxi + .5g per gallon Epsom.
-Changing my reservoir out weekly.





Whole plant:


As you can tell, it's on what would be the lowers if I hadn't trained it out pretty flat. Last week I removed another couple of leaves with the same condition.

Thoughts? Bump up my Epsom salts a bit? I have Ca/Mg on hand too, but if it's not calcium related I'd rather not use that. I've never done foliar spray before, is that something I should consider?

I do plan on flipping to flower in the near future, probably sometime next week.

 

[Bukvičák]

Looks like calcium, maybe stop adding pH down, I do not think its neccesary with peat…

 

[Billy the Mountain]

Hey y'all, just looking to confirm or deny my instinct on this one. I think it's a magnesium issue, but I'd love some other opinions.

I've done a bunch of auto runs , and didn't have anything like this, but these are Durban Poison photos. I'm only doing 2 right now, one shows no problems, this one has started to get some spots and starting with some interveinal chlorosis. Spotting started a few weeks back before moving to Blumats

Deets:
-2x Durban Poison from seed.
-Currently in week 6 of veg.
-ProMix HP+ in 5g bags
-Had been doing a feed/water alternation schedule, but now am using Blumats for drip water/feed.
-Tent Temps: 82-85 during the light, and 78-81 during dark.
-Tent Humidity: 58RH during light, 64ish in the dark.
-AC-I 6" fans, intake/exhaust based at level 1, triggered for hum./temp.two 6" circulation fans.
-Lights are HLG 225's and currently at 640umol at canopy height
-Water is our well water, PPM @ 240 right now. pH is adjusted down to between 6.3 & 6.5pH.
-Feeding MaxiGrow/Bloom. I'd been using Gro until this week, when I'm doing 2/3 Gro, 1/3 Bloom to transition to all bloom.
-Before Blumats I'd been doing 6g MaxiGro + 1g Epsom salts per gallon.
-With Blumats I've halved that, 3g per gallon Maxi + .5g per gallon Epsom.
-Changing my reservoir out weekly.

View attachment 5122729

View attachment 5122730

Whole plant:
View attachment 5122731

As you can tell, it's on what would be the lowers if I hadn't trained it out pretty flat. Last week I removed another couple of leaves with the same condition.

Thoughts? Bump up my Epsom salts a bit? I have Ca/Mg on hand too, but if it's not calcium related I'd rather not use that. I've never done foliar spray before, is that something I should consider?

I do plan on flipping to flower in the near future, probably sometime next week.

I haven't used my blumats yet, but have read through all the blumat info on the Sustainable Village website.

They recommend 25-50% of what you'd use for DTW

You might want to hand-water to runoff to see where your EC currently sits; that should give you some insight as to what's going on.

Mg is mobile, so should be most visible on the lower leaves

 

[inth3shadowz]

Honestly I can't say too much for Promix, never tried it. but I have amazing results with just Maxibloom 7 grams ( small scoop) per gallon of water in Coco from seed to harvest. I read that the Lucas formula works just fine in Promix as well.

 

[hotrodharley]

Transition feeding unnecessary. First feeding after flip should be a full veg feed. They need it for the stretch. Foliar spray cal mag.

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Honestly I can't say too much for Promix, never tried it. but I have amazing results with just Maxibloom 7 grams ( small scoop) per gallon of water in Coco from seed to harvest. I read that the Lucas formula works just fine in Promix as well.

Yeah, and I was moving towards doing full MaxiBloom with a target of 5-7g before I set up the Blumats. I really did that because I'll be a way a few times this grow for a week and a half each time. As @Billy the Mountain mentioned, they suggest it at 25%-50% of hand-feed strength, so with the 3g per gallon it would equate to 6g per gallon hand-watering.

I haven't used my blumats yet, but have read through all the blumat info on the Sustainable Village website.
They recommend 25-50% of what you'd use for DTW
You might want to hand-water to runoff to see where your EC currently sits; that should give you some insight as to what's going on.
Mg is mobile, so should be most visible on the lower leaves

Yeah, that's why I'm at 3g per gallon, which would be 50% of my 'hand feed.' Since I'm out of town next week, I may see if I can adjust my feed in reservoir this week and then do a water-to-runoff by hand once I get back and see what my EC is currently. Previous to putting the blumats in, my feed was right in the 1.5EC range, but with the caveat that my water was about .88EC before any nutrients.

Worth thinking about a foliar feeding with epsom? The other plant is doing just fine and has absolutely no issues and they're on the same reservoir, so it seems like with the blumats in place that might be a good way to go? I've never done it.

Looks like calcium, maybe stop adding pH down, I do not think its neccesary with peat…

Am I wrong that calcium shows at top as well as lowers? Right now it's only lower/older leaves. My water is natively in the 7.1-7.3pH range, so I'm a little concerned about being above 7. Maybe move from my usual 6.3-6.5 up to something like 6.7-6.8?

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Transition feeding unnecessary. First feeding after flip should be a full veg feed. They need it for the stretch. Foliar spray cal mag.

Thank you. Thoughts on how much to mix? I have GH CaliMagic on hand, and they don't specifically say anything beyond 'use a weaker formulation than with root feeding'. I think they say 10ml per gallon for root application, so something like 2ml per gallon?

 

[hotrodharley]

Thank you. Thoughts on how much to mix? I have GH CaliMagic on hand, and they don't specifically say anything beyond 'use a weaker formulation than with root feeding'. I think they say 10ml per gallon for root application, so something like 2ml per gallon?

I add a teaspoon per gallon. It’s easy to reapply. Add a drop of liquid soap as a surfactant.

 

[inth3shadowz]

Thank you. Thoughts on how much to mix? I have GH CaliMagic on hand, and they don't specifically say anything beyond 'use a weaker formulation than with root feeding'. I think they say 10ml per gallon for root application, so something like 2ml per gallon?

Maxibloom has all the cal mag, nitrogen, etc from seed to harvest. Don't start adding cal mag and end up with more issues.

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Maxibloom has all the cal mag, nitrogen, etc from seed to harvest. Don't start adding cal mag and end up with more issues.

I've not been using Ca/Mg in my feed for this round. I've been trying to figure out if it's worth anything given my high water hardness at 220-240ppm from our well, though there's conflicting info as to if limestone hardness in water is bio-available or not. I have added some epsom salts in the range of .5 to 1g per gallon though.

Apparently this plant shows that whatever I've been doing isn't quite enough though.

 

[Billy the Mountain]

Yeah, and I was moving towards doing full MaxiBloom with a target of 5-7g before I set up the Blumats. I really did that because I'll be a way a few times this grow for a week and a half each time. As @Billy the Mountain mentioned, they suggest it at 25%-50% of hand-feed strength, so with the 3g per gallon it would equate to 6g per gallon hand-watering.




Yeah, that's why I'm at 3g per gallon, which would be 50% of my 'hand feed.' Since I'm out of town next week, I may see if I can adjust my feed in reservoir this week and then do a water-to-runoff by hand once I get back and see what my EC is currently. Previous to putting the blumats in, my feed was right in the 1.5EC range, but with the caveat that my water was about .88EC before any nutrients.

Worth thinking about a foliar feeding with epsom? The other plant is doing just fine and has absolutely no issues and they're on the same reservoir, so it seems like with the blumats in place that might be a good way to go? I've never done it.



Am I wrong that calcium shows at top as well as lowers? Right now it's only lower/older leaves. My water is natively in the 7.1-7.3pH range, so I'm a little concerned about being above 7. Maybe move from my usual 6.3-6.5 up to something like 6.7-6.8?

I missed the part about only affecting one of two plants; that muddies the water.

Ca is not mobile so you'll see it first on newer growth

0.88 EC is not ideal for hydro to put it mildly; there's a lot of something in there, your guess is as good as mine.

Reservoir pH should be around 6

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

I missed the part about only affecting one of two plants; that muddies the water.

Ca is not mobile so you'll see it first on newer growth

0.88 EC is not ideal for hydro to put it mildly; there's a lot of something in there, your guess is as good as mine.

Reservoir pH should be around 6

Technically, we're not hydro...it's Promix soil but I'm using a drip system. At best it's a 'hybrid system' that does a constant drip for soil settings. The system uses osmotic pressure to open and close valves for drippers if the soil dries down enough so it's not dripping or flooding on a schedule but just keeping soil at a constant moisture level range.

 

[inth3shadowz]

Technically, we're not hydro...it's Promix soil but I'm using a drip system. At best it's a 'hybrid system' that does a constant drip for soil settings. The system uses osmotic pressure to open and close valves for drippers if the soil dries down enough so it's not dripping or flooding on a schedule but just keeping soil at a constant moisture level range.

Something that stands out to me on your first post...you said "alternating water/feed" schedule. Are you saying that you fed plain water once then fed the next?

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Something that stands out to me on your first post...you said "alternating water/feed" schedule. Are you saying that you fed plain water once then fed the next?

Previous to the Blumat system when I was hand water/feeding to 20% runoff, I was indeed alternating feed/water and doing it usually every 4 days, letting the soil dry down in between. Both feed and water were pH'ed to the same figures.

 

[ComfortCreator]

I missed the part about only affecting one of two plants; that muddies the water.

Ca is not mobile so you'll see it first on newer growth

0.88 EC is not ideal for hydro to put it mildly; there's a lot of something in there, your guess is as good as mine.

Reservoir pH should be around 6

I believe this is it...ph is too high for your choice. 6.5 is ideal for soil, I do not grow in promix but I recall most posts saying 6.0 and a few 5.8. It looks like deficiencies caused by inability to uptake.

As long as you are controlling temps night and day I suggest running exhaust a little faster at night to keep humidity to 60% if possible. 65% is OK too but since you are adding heat, may as well dial in everything.

Lastly if you dont have a really full tent where mold is an issue I would run higher humidity lights on. 82 to 85f will want higher humidity to reach ideal VPD.

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Being a man of action™, I took the bull by the horns and mixed up a gallon of solution w/5ml of Ca/Mg and a drop of dish soap. I had a spare hand sprayer in my supplies, so that's now the dedicated foliar sprayer...and snuck into the tent under the cover of darkness and did a bit of spraydown.

Looks like people are suggesting it twice a week, so unless I'm told that this sucks...that's what I'll do.

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

I believe this is it...ph is too high for your choice. 6.5 is ideal for soil, I do not grow in promix but I recall most posts saying 6.0 and a few 5.8. It looks like deficiencies caused by inability to uptake.

As long as you are controlling temps night and day I suggest running exhaust a little faster at night to keep humidity to 60% if possible. 65% is OK too but since you are adding heat, may as well dial in everything.

Lastly if you dont have a really full tent where mold us an issue I would run higher humidity lights on. 82 to 85f will want higher humidity to reachable ideal VPD.

I've not heard anyone doing soil at 6pH before this? And have been using Promix for a handful of grows in the same range as I've been doing?

 

[ComfortCreator]

Nothing wrong at all with a foliar. I think you wont need it after the first 1 or 2 apps though if the feed is corrected.

 

[ComfortCreator]

I've not heard anyone doing soil at 6pH before this? And have been using Promix for a handful of grows in the same range as I've been doing?

My understanding...could be wrong...is HP + is a peat based hydro medium, not soil. It contains 2 of the elements of soil, peat and aeration, but not any of the nutrition as fertilizer or amendments.

 

[LeastExpectedGrower]

Hey @Roger A. Shrubber ...you do, or did use ProMix HP+ Any input here? I've been pH'ing down to 6.3...