Zero root growth in 2 weeks.

D

Duhh

Active Member
Billy the Mountain said:
It's the opposite approach to using chlorine

Sterile: kill the harmful (and everything else)
Bennies: out-compete the harmful with beneficial
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Oh boy so that's what this is, I'm entering into the benificial bacteria method, that makes me a bit nervous as I don't know anything about it and it seemed from what I read that's where everyone ran into trouble, I think it was to do with temps mostly tho? If I keep the temps under 20 celcius and use this gff product would that really help stop bad bacteria growing?
 
Bucsfan80

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
Duhh said:
Wow nice. That's using that gff? And in recovery from pythium? What were you using when you got pythium what were the water temps?
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I wasn't fighting root rot. When I first started out and had a run or two under my belt I had an idea to try sterile. I rooted my seedling then put it in dwc with shock and the roots came out the bottom but refused to go in the water (my fault) and it just stunted and died. Then I went gff
 
Bucsfan80

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
I don't have a chiller so temps get high in summer. I stopped stressing over temps and don't pay it any attention and I swear since I started not caring about temps it got easier. I don't run nothing in my rez now
 
D

Duhh

Active Member
Bucsfan80 said:
I don't have a chiller so temps get high in summer. I stopped stressing over temps and don't pay it any attention and I swear since I started not caring about temps it got easier. I don't run nothing in my rez now
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Just GFF and its all good? What would you estimate the temps in your res are?
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Duhh said:
Just GFF and its all good? What would you estimate the temps in your res are?
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the guy that turned me on to GFF grew hydro outdoors in Arizona so like 90F or more.

it's a battle of good vs evil. you want more of the good bacteria than the bad
 
D

Duhh

Active Member
Bucsfan80 said:
My temps hit 80 for sure. I don't run my hydro in a way that I'd recommend so I'll just say yeah gff every rez change
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What if I still ran the chiller would the good bacteria thrive in those temps or would low temps not be helpful for that?
 
Bucsfan80

Bucsfan80

Well-Known Member
Duhh said:
What if I still ran the chiller would the good bacteria thrive in those temps or would low temps not be helpful for that?
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I'm not sure on that but I'd say 68-70 should be ok. Let someone else confirm that though.
 
D

Duhh

Active Member
rkymtnman said:
the guy that turned me on to GFF grew hydro outdoors in Arizona so like 90F or more.

it's a battle of good vs evil. you want more of the good bacteria than the bad
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Well that sounds good. Good vs evil battle in my res I like that haha.

I'm still puzzled by the zero root growth in 2 weeks. Maybe a combination of the wrong feed then the things I got wrong, maybe its the calcium hypochlorite? Anyone have any ideas what might have caused it?
 
D

Duhh

Active Member
The ec has dropped a bit more today, the pH down has been pushing it back up, both are small moves but it's better than ec up alot overnight.

Thank you to everyone for the help too
 
nonamedman420

nonamedman420

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
sounds like you are overfeeding to me. especially if there aren't many roots.

but pics are needed.
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If his/her ec were 1000, his plants would likely never live no matter what. PPM's on the other hand... even then, a new transplant with 1000 ppm's on either scale is not good. New transplants for me get a light feeding, NOT EVEN 1.0 ec, or 500/700 ppm depending on the scale ( I use around 300 ppm for them and go from there). I feed lighter than most it seems.
 
Billy the Mountain

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
nonamedman420 said:
If his/her ec were 1000, his plants would likely never live no matter what. PPM's on the other hand... even then, a new transplant with 1000 ppm's on either scale is not good. New transplants for me get a light feeding, not even 1.0 ec, or 500/700 ppm depending on the scale. I feed lighter than most it seems.
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No

EC can measured in milli or micro siemens.

1000 microsiemens (μS) = 1 millisiemen (ms)
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
nonamedman420 said:
If his/her ec were 1000, his plants would likely never live no matter what. PPM's on the other hand... even then, a new transplant with 1000 ppm's on either scale is not good. New transplants for me get a light feeding, NOT EVEN 1.0 ec, or 500/700 ppm depending on the scale ( I use around 300 ppm for them and go from there). I feed lighter than most it seems.
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i think he/she is at 0,6 now
 
farmerfischer

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
plantinggreen said:
I am now wondering if people offer their own suggestions where their theme or preference if you will comes first. If I were to just say the same thing, purchase my product use my method or design etc.

For me, deep water culture doesn't work. It would be nice to set up a comparison but I don't think we have to with so much photographic evidence. Some IBM computer thing has already figured out how to grow I am sure or at least in progress. What I have read is you can use more air pumps and air stones for higher (maximum) dissolved oxygen. And a reservoir chiller for the same reason and microbe pathogen growth. It is ok but I think the others are better while I have not tested them myself even rockwool slabs in commercial sized rooms look impressive (performance) compared to DWC. I think shallow water culture with flood and drain is better so they are not submerged or allowed to dry. More oxygen for roots. The container sizes can be smaller although I would not go to such an extreme of using one liter coco coir for flowering plants with liquid/salt plant food. You will read people say that stems root in water and I have not had that happen. In fact they never root. I had one clone make roots in a root riot peat plug and one other that finally make fine tiny roots after weeks in an OxyCloner. There is something people aren't saying and I don't have the indoor grow experience with all of this different equipment and chemicals some of it is costly.
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It speaks.. lol.. holy shit..
 
D

Duhh

Active Member
nonamedman420 said:
If his/her ec were 1000, his plants would likely never live no matter what. PPM's on the other hand... even then, a new transplant with 1000 ppm's on either scale is not good. New transplants for me get a light feeding, NOT EVEN 1.0 ec, or 500/700 ppm depending on the scale ( I use around 300 ppm for them and go from there). I feed lighter than most it seems.
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Yeah it was 500ppm 1000 ec, there is no decimal on my tds meter, so that would be the same as 1.0.

Yes my ec is now in the 600 range and drops a little bit every day so the pants are eating a bit, better than the ec going up! but I have to keep using a bit of pH down that then taps the ec up a bit again, so it seems to be keeping it around the same range, between 600 and around 630 ec.

I've also figured out that the dosage of calcium hypochlorite I am using would be 0.004 grams per liter, there was 36 liters in my res, so 0.144 grams in total. I was definitely putting more than that in the res, maybe double that. And I have also read that calcium hypochlorite can be used as a weed killer by applying to root area! So it hasn't killed my plants as it wasn't a toxic level but I think it was enough of a dose that has inhibited root growth. I haven't added any in about 5 days now, the temps stay around 17 celcius so I'm hoping that is enough to keep problems away? Any comments on this would be appreciated.
 
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