HLG, Great Customer Service

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Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
I have an HLG 550 V2 rspec, and I love the light, but in the summer heat in the tent becomes an issue. I don't want to put in a portable A/C, and since much of the heat comes from the driver, I e-mailed HLG and asked if they carry cable extensions so I can re-locate the driver outside the tent. Got a detailed response the very next day. Unfortunately, they don't carry the cable extensions, BUT, they sent me detailed instructions on what I needed to get, and where to get it with links to all the suppliers, and how to assemble it correctly . They do carry the heat sink that I'll need.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Phytoplankton said:
I have an HLG 550 V2 rspec, and I love the light, but in the summer heat in the tent becomes an issue. I don't want to put in a portable A/C, and since much of the heat comes from the driver, I e-mailed HLG and asked if they carry cable extensions so I can re-locate the driver outside the tent. Got a detailed response the very next day. Unfortunately, they don't carry the cable extensions, BUT, they sent me detailed instructions on what I needed to get, and where to get it with links to all the suppliers, and how to assemble it correctly . They do carry the heat sink that I'll need.
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They're on here too.

Mind sharing what they told you? This could be helpful to a bunch of people.
 
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Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
Your right, they do have great customer service!
Went above and beyond for me a few years ago.

Interested to know what you want the heatsink for though?
Click to expand...

They recommend putting the driver on a new heat sink, because when you relocate the driver it is being removed from the heat sink that contains the diodes. The other option mentioned is mounting it so there is air space under it and directing a fan at it for cooling.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Phytoplankton said:
They recommend putting the driver on a new heat sink, because when you relocate the driver it is being removed from the heat sink that contains the diodes. The other option mentioned is mounting it so there is air space under it and directing a fan at it for cooling.
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Did they're recommended a place to get the cords? They look like the cords that ChilLED/Growcraft has, but I'm not sure if they're the same.
 
Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
I'll never forget when I stripped the dimming screw and they sent me a new driver with a screwdriver and literally no hassle

Hlg has been my best ever customer experience you can tell they want to make sure you're taken care of. The product cost alot as it is and they have the support to match the cost
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Nizza said:
I'll never forget when I stripped the dimming screw and they sent me a new driver with a screwdriver and literally no hassle

Hlg has been my best ever customer experience you can tell they want to make sure you're taken care of. The product cost alot as it is and they have the support to match the cost
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Aye, when my kit was out of warranty they paid for a new driver to be sent from a European meanwell distributor to me in the UK.
 
Incredible4Mr2E

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
I bought an Rspec board second hand on eBay. A couple of the QB are flickering and about to die. I just emailed them today and told them I bought this off eBay and wanted to see if they could give me a deal on 2 new 288 boards, why not, nothings to loose. The price I received was under 40 bucks per board. She asked to see the light, I’m sure just to make sure I’m not a shitbag and have one. I mean, are you serious?! I didn’t buy this light new myself and they’re still gonna help me out and give me a good deal. They will now have all my business in the future with lighting bc I know they will have my back with anything bought from them. I even modified and added to the light. I don’t think they like it, but I wanted to turn each board down, spread the light a little more and just keep it near the top of tent. This light I put together with the HLG Rspec will put out 980 true watts and it’s bright lol The two other QB setups were bought from growdaddyled and do good. They’re advertised as 250w V4 Samsung LM301H lights. I have tested them and do run at 250 watts. My drivers on the other hand are all outside of the tent and connected to a fan that’s on the light timer. It keeps the drivers warm and absolutely never hot. I think I’m more into buying and building grow shit thn actually growing anymore haha
EB53ED7D-F282-4950-96F4-800EB87C7DC3.jpegC2FA0251-F656-4DF5-8022-4F7BF16CB9D1.jpegimage.jpg
 

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pahpah-cee

Well-Known Member
I bought a 600v2 off a tweaker for $30. They wired it wrong and ruined the driver. HLG sent me a replacement driver with no hassle or questions.
 
Incredible4Mr2E

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
I took a 16 ga. extension cord with no ground and cut it on the ends. If you have a 2 port wago connector, put it on the driver side. The other side near the light has the T connector. Just unscrew the fitting. When you open it you’ll see 2 wires with different colors going into screw clamps. It’s only two wires that really need to be ran into the tent or room to the light. Just make sure the wires you unscrew are going into the same connection wire in the wago. If you have a decent size computer cord, that would work and look better thn how I ran mine. Just use two wires, the third would just be cut at the end.

Edit, I also ran the ground cord to the driver, I forgot I had to run that too. I just took a wago and connected it to the ground coming out of the light and took that cable and screwed it into the T fitting at the driver. So I guess you’ll have to run another cable. You can see it just over the T fitting to the right it’s connected to that yellow 10 ga. Extension cord haha8FF8F98A-9A07-4383-B303-1DB1477BD95F.jpeg
 
farmingfisherman

farmingfisherman

Well-Known Member
Phytoplankton said:
I have an HLG 550 V2 rspec, and I love the light, but in the summer heat in the tent becomes an issue. I don't want to put in a portable A/C, and since much of the heat comes from the driver, I e-mailed HLG and asked if they carry cable extensions so I can re-locate the driver outside the tent. Got a detailed response the very next day. Unfortunately, they don't carry the cable extensions, BUT, they sent me detailed instructions on what I needed to get, and where to get it with links to all the suppliers, and how to assemble it correctly . They do carry the heat sink that I'll need.
Click to expand...
Try that with the China based light companies that try to disguise the fact by giving a US address.
 
Incredible4Mr2E

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
pahpah-cee said:
I bought a 600v2 off a tweaker for $30. They wired it wrong and ruined the driver. HLG sent me a replacement driver with no hassle or questions.
Click to expand...
It’s amazing the deals you get from them guys. I always wonder if it’s stolen. Thn I remember I bought something from a tweak, it’s definitely stolen. Some times you get them new tweakers that have all the good stuff and need some extra cash haha
 
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Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
Post it up if you get a chance.
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Here ya go, they did everything but assemble it for me:

Hello ,
Unfortunately we don't have an extension kit for remote mounting the driver because the driver also uses the aluminum heatsink to help dissipate heat.
That being said, it is still possible to externally mount the driver, but it would require some work and sourcing a couple of items on your end.

To do so, you would need to source the desired length of cord you want to extend the driver away from the grow space (up to 25'). We recommend 16/3 AWG wire and another 3pin waterproof straight connection.
I will add some links at the end to each for reference.

You will want to add the new length of cord on the DC "output" side of the driver. This will be installed between the DC wire coming from the driver and the "T" waterproof connection.
The open side of the new cord will attach to the "T" connection. The other side of the new cord will attach to the new 3-pin waterproof straight connector, and then to the DC output side of the driver.

You can then disconnect the driver by removing the x2 bolts with a nut on the backside attaching the driver.
We recommend mounting the driver on a thermally conductive surface or adding in some sort of active air movement around the driver at its new location for proper cooling.

Slate-2 Single Heatsink - https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/components/products/qb304-board-heatsink-slate-2
3-pin waterproof straight connector - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B54WZ9L/ref=twister_B09B759QMX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Desired length of 16/3 AWG wire - https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Cable-Connection-Conductor-Portable/dp/B07S4GJ8FN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=VL4SMTI9HQHM&keywords=16/3+awg&qid=1644523770&s=industrial&sprefix=16/3+awg,industrial,96&sr=1-5&th=1
or local pickup - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-16-3-300-Volt-CU-Black-Flexible-Portable-Power-SJOOW-Cord-55808599/204632936

Thank you
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Phytoplankton said:
Here ya go, they did everything but assemble it for me:

Hello ,
Unfortunately we don't have an extension kit for remote mounting the driver because the driver also uses the aluminum heatsink to help dissipate heat.
That being said, it is still possible to externally mount the driver, but it would require some work and sourcing a couple of items on your end.

To do so, you would need to source the desired length of cord you want to extend the driver away from the grow space (up to 25'). We recommend 16/3 AWG wire and another 3pin waterproof straight connection.
I will add some links at the end to each for reference.

You will want to add the new length of cord on the DC "output" side of the driver. This will be installed between the DC wire coming from the driver and the "T" waterproof connection.
The open side of the new cord will attach to the "T" connection. The other side of the new cord will attach to the new 3-pin waterproof straight connector, and then to the DC output side of the driver.

You can then disconnect the driver by removing the x2 bolts with a nut on the backside attaching the driver.
We recommend mounting the driver on a thermally conductive surface or adding in some sort of active air movement around the driver at its new location for proper cooling.

Slate-2 Single Heatsink - https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/components/products/qb304-board-heatsink-slate-2
3-pin waterproof straight connector - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B54WZ9L/ref=twister_B09B759QMX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Desired length of 16/3 AWG wire - https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Cable-Connection-Conductor-Portable/dp/B07S4GJ8FN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=VL4SMTI9HQHM&keywords=16/3+awg&qid=1644523770&s=industrial&sprefix=16/3+awg,industrial,96&sr=1-5&th=1
or local pickup - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-16-3-300-Volt-CU-Black-Flexible-Portable-Power-SJOOW-Cord-55808599/204632936

Thank you
Click to expand...
Awesome. That might help someone. I was thinking it was one of the cords with the push lock connectors. Thanks though.
 
DoubleAtotheRON

DoubleAtotheRON

Well-Known Member
Just a thought.. I don't know your environmental location, but putting in a portable AC unit, or wall unit in your lung room (im assuming) would prob be just as cheap, and your best best for when/if you need the heat from the lights. Coming from the commercial side of growing, I dedicated a 10x20 room for personal grow. I have a window unit in that room. In the summer, It's very easy to control the temps, and same for winter. Might save you a bunch of wiring and relocation hassle. Most of the time, I have my 4x8 tent flaps about 1/4 of the way open.
..... and yes, HLG is the bomb for customer service!
 
Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
DoubleAtotheRON said:
Just a thought.. I don't know your environmental location, but putting in a portable AC unit, or wall unit in your lung room (im assuming) would prob be just as cheap, and your best best for when/if you need the heat from the lights. Coming from the commercial side of growing, I dedicated a 10x20 room for personal grow. I have a window unit in that room. In the summer, It's very easy to control the temps, and same for winter. Might save you a bunch of wiring and relocation hassle. Most of the time, I have my 4x8 tent flaps about 1/4 of the way open.
..... and yes, HLG is the bomb for customer service!
Click to expand...
Sorry to be off topic but do you have any new journals going? Always loved reading your content. Rock on man !
 
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Phytoplankton

Well-Known Member
DoubleAtotheRON said:
Just a thought.. I don't know your environmental location, but putting in a portable AC unit, or wall unit in your lung room (im assuming) would prob be just as cheap, and your best best for when/if you need the heat from the lights. Coming from the commercial side of growing, I dedicated a 10x20 room for personal grow. I have a window unit in that room. In the summer, It's very easy to control the temps, and same for winter. Might save you a bunch of wiring and relocation hassle. Most of the time, I have my 4x8 tent flaps about 1/4 of the way open.
..... and yes, HLG is the bomb for customer service!
Click to expand...
Thanks for your thoughts! The tent location would make it difficult, I have a portable A/C unit, it's loud and sucks electricity, plus the nearest window to vent it through is 10 feet away. In the winter the lights provide all the heat I need, In the summer, on hot days, is when the heat in the tent can build up. Normally my garage is pretty cool, it's a slab floor, so it doesn't get huge temp swings. If I just run big intake and exhaust fans I'm normally fine, except on 90 degree plus days. I, also use the tent doors (6.5 X 6.5 x 7 tent) to help with heat/cold.
 
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