Would you switch to flower or would you still veg it?

[RookieMuffin]

This time my plants were very deficient and it took a while to figure out what the problem was.

By now I've solved the problem and they are growing good.

My plan was to train them early on but since they started to get deficient from seedling on I didn't train them because I wanted them to be halthy before HST/LST them.

It took about 2-3 month to figure out the problem (since I was using a new set up and had to dial in a lot of things so it took a while to figure out what caused the problems)

Now they are halthy but were not trained at all. So they grew as a normal indica. Christmastree like and bushy.

Now since they were vegging 3 month they grew too high and when I flip them to flower they will stretch and reach the tents ceiling. So I had to think about how to stop it. I didn't want to prune them because of lost time and energy growing them.

I wanted to train and scrog them (I always do it like this) but didn't because of the deficiencies. So two days ago I just bent them over and put the scrog net over them to keep them lower. They are now about halth the hight than before. They were about 25 inches and now they are about 12 inches. So the scrog net is about 12 inches above the water reservoirs.

I had to do this because they were to high and when I would have switched them to flower without the net and bending them over they would outgrow the lights.

I have to defoilate them since they were christmastrees and now they are bent and some places have so much leaves there is no light getting down so defoliation is needed right?

Now to my question. Would you switch them to flower now based on the picture? Or would you still veg it?

I think it's time to switch even if there is some space on the net but they will stretch and so on so I think it's time to flower them!

I also don't care that much how much yield I have in the end with this run. I only want them to finish healthy.

The next run will be trained and scrogged better again since I've dailed in my new setup better than this run.

Would you switch now and defoliate a litte and train them the next 2-3 weeks with the scrog net and then let them finish their flowering or would you wait switching them?? I think it's time to switch them but I want to hear your opinions too!

When you zoom closer you can even see the main stem. Keep in mind I didn't train or defoliate them at all. I just let them grow and dialed in my setup until they weren't deficient anymore. So it's not a pretty scrog but I had to do it or else they would have out grown the light.

 

[Hotrod2]

If they are healthy now I would get rid of what may turn into popcorn buds and then start flowering. But even then don't take so much as to stress the plant out. Defoliate little by little.

 

[RookieMuffin]

If they are healthy now I would get rid of what may turn into popcorn buds and then start flowering. But even then don't take so much as to stress the plant out. Defoliate little by little.

Ok that's what I was thinking too! Switching to flower now and defoliating over the course of 2-3 weeks. Also get rid of popcorn buds.

Thank you very much for your input!

 

[DarkLordMelkor]

I would keep vegging week more to get screen filled better and extra light penetration to brances and get them bit thicker. Ofcourse if you sure extra week veg won't be issue.

 

[RookieMuffin]

I would keep vegging week more to get screen filled better and extra light penetration to brances and get them bit thicker. Ofcourse if you sure extra week veg won't be issue.

Vegging for one week extra won't kill me. Are you sure? When I veg more and the screen fills out more what happens when they stretch too much in flowering?

With extra light penetration do you mean defoliation to get the big fan leaves out of the way?

 

[medidedicated]

I did not read anything just the title and photo and I am familiar with nets, looks ready aside from the back left corner. Will double in size, I would make sure it vegged for 60 days and mature enough.

6” net standing by as this one is just to spread and stall the canopy to keep it level and the next next will do the same up to end of mid flower.

Do not be affraid to pinch and pop and bend over, I LOVE this part of the cycle lol. Wire ties tied to the second ner helps keep it 90 degree angle for best height control on that node.

 

[RookieMuffin]

I did not read anything just the title and photo and I am familiar with nets, looks ready aside from the back left corner. Will double in size, I would make sure it vegged for 60 days and mature enough.

6” net standing by as this one is just to spread and stall the canopy to keep it level and the next next will do the same up to end of mid flower.

Do not be affraid to pinch and pop and bend over, I LOVE this part of the cycle lol. Wire ties tied to the second ner helps keep it 90 degree angle for best height control on that node.

They vegged for 3 month. Some time of that they were stunned and deficient. They were 25 inches tall. Now after scrogging they are 12 inches. They are sexually mature.

What do you mean by pinch and pop? Like topping tops to keep them from growing to tall?

So you think they are ready because they will strech anyway (just the one corner which will maybe fill in)?

 

[medidedicated]

They vegged for 3 month. Some time of that they were stunned and deficient. They were 25 inches height. Not after scrogging they are 12 inches. They are sexually mature.

What do you mean by pinch and pop? Like topping tops to keep them from growing to tall?

For nodes growing 2-3x longer than the rest, just nodes that are forcing your overall canopy to raise faster than desired. You pinch and feel a pop, like popping bubble wrap which is the structure inside collapsing.

Some times you need to do it twice to make the sturdy node limp to bend over. A longer bruised section, if you will.

It will nuckle up and become even more sturdy, this is super cropping. Works in stretch and end of mid flower. If it splits open too wide, let it return straight and tie shut for a few days, it will seal itself shut.

A small split can recover at 90 degree angle still though.

 

[RookieMuffin]

For nodes growing 2-3x longer than the rest, just nodes that are forcing your overall canopy to raise faster than desired. You pinch and feel a pop, like popping bubble wrap which is the structure inside collapsing.

Some times you need to do it twice to make the sturdy node limp to bend over. A longer bruised section, if you will.

It will nuckle up and become even more sturdy, this is super cropping. Works in stretch and end of mid flower. If it splits open too wide, let it return straight and tie shut for a few days, it will seal itself shut.

A small split can recover at 90 degree angle still though.

I see what you mean... super cropping. I think they are ready to switch too! Thanks for your input!

While stretching I should try to fill in the top left corner but if it doesn't fill in I don't care. This run with the new setup I want them healthy that's it. I don't care how much I harvest this time lol! As long as they are healthy and potent I'm happy.

 

[medidedicated]

I see what you mean... super cropping. I think they are ready to switch too! Thanks for your input!

I should try to fill in the top left corner but if it doesn't fill in I don't care. This run with the new setup I want them healthy that's it. I don't care how much I harvest this time lol! As long as they are healthy and potent I'm happy.

The nodes you bend down right now through stretch can still turn into it’s own cola, then in mid flower, where you are finally counting and seeing bud sites over the top of the canopy, you are just cruching it side ways to make sure the canopy is level, and wow, my current run is 95% level. Scrog all day!

 

[RookieMuffin]

The nodes you bend down right now through stretch can still turn into it’s own cola, then in mid flower, where you are finally counting and seeing bud sites over the top of the canopy, you are just cruching it side ways to make sure the canopy is level, and wow, my current run is 95% level. Scrog all day!

I love scrogging too! In my eyes best thing to even out the canopy and maximize grow space and yield! Do you have a thread where I can look at some pictures of your grow? Do you grow from seed or clone? And do you train them early on to even out the canopy and then put them under the scrog net? This time I didn't train them (topping etc.) because they were deficient and I wanted them to get healthy first.

 

[medidedicated]

I love scrogging too! In my eyes best thing to even out the canopy and maximize grow space and yield! Do you have a thread where I can look at some pictures of your grow? Do you grow from seed or clone? And do you train them early on to even out the canopy and then put them under the scrog net? This time I didn't train them (topping etc.) because they were deficient and I wanted them to get healthy first.

Currently I just have an old shit show that just needed to be wrapped up and no photos but this run I will surely show it off. I wait til the end to post photos unless I have an issue but as a coco addict, that doesn’t happen.

Just would for sure opt for a taller tent next time and wider. I grow from seed but would love to clone some time but I get greedy and want to maximize my efforts and either grow one big plant 8-16oz or run a 5 plant 5gallon run and yield 2.5 ibs or more.

Clones might yield me less and I just want to get in, get out, not have all this shit up eating costs for no good reason IMO*

To me, it just needs 2 layers, if it is a lanky growing sativa, I would spiral up a coil. I only prune suckers end of stretch that not reach main canopy and shave legs and shave again at late flower.

I leave it be in veg for good behavior for giving me as much lego node growth possible, it is not a sucker, it can become a main line.

I do not do mainlining because extra time and I achieve same effect with same concept but with 10+ smaller main lines and even smaller ones, then flower shoots off of those and the end of that main line will be a massive chonker.

Autos or photos, I do all the same. Here is an auto I am doing right now.


It has 55+ colas and are 95% even. You will probably see it here soon when it is ready, any week now.

 

[Hotrod2]

Currently I just have an old shit show that just needed to be wrapped up and no photos but this run I will surely show it off. I wait til the end to post photos unless I have an issue but as a coco addict, that doesn’t happen.

Just would for sure opt for a taller tent next time and wider. I grow from seed but would love to clone some time but I get greedy and want to maximize my efforts and either grow one big plant 8-16oz or run a 5 plant 5gallon run and yield 2.5 ibs or more.

Clones might yield me less and I just want to get in, get out, not have all this shit up eating costs for no good reason IMO*

To me, it just needs 2 layers, if it is a lanky growing sativa, I would spiral up a coil. I only prune suckers end of stretch that not reach main canopy and shave legs and shave again at late flower.

I leave it be in veg for good behavior for giving me as much lego node growth possible, it is not a sucker, it can become a main line.

I do not do mainlining because extra time and I achieve same effect with same concept but with 10+ smaller main lines and even smaller ones, then flower shoots off of those and the end of that main line will be a massive chonker.

Autos or photos, I do all the same. Here is an auto I am doing right now.
View attachment 5265578

It has 55+ colas and are 95% even. You will probably see it here soon when it is ready, any week now.

Never seen that much trimming on an auto before. Is yours a sativa?

 

[RookieMuffin]

Currently I just have an old shit show that just needed to be wrapped up and no photos but this run I will surely show it off. I wait til the end to post photos unless I have an issue but as a coco addict, that doesn’t happen.

Just would for sure opt for a taller tent next time and wider. I grow from seed but would love to clone some time but I get greedy and want to maximize my efforts and either grow one big plant 8-16oz or run a 5 plant 5gallon run and yield 2.5 ibs or more.

Clones might yield me less and I just want to get in, get out, not have all this shit up eating costs for no good reason IMO*

To me, it just needs 2 layers, if it is a lanky growing sativa, I would spiral up a coil. I only prune suckers end of stretch that not reach main canopy and shave legs and shave again at late flower.

I leave it be in veg for good behavior for giving me as much lego node growth possible, it is not a sucker, it can become a main line.

I do not do mainlining because extra time and I achieve same effect with same concept but with 10+ smaller main lines and even smaller ones, then flower shoots off of those and the end of that main line will be a massive chonker.

Autos or photos, I do all the same. Here is an auto I am doing right now.
View attachment 5265578

It has 55+ colas and are 95% even. You will probably see it here soon when it is ready, any week now.

I see I'm from seed too... I want to clone too but idk right now I'm ok with training seedlings and scrogging them lol.

That auto looks good. Mine just look terrible under the scrognet because it was a christmas tree which I bent over to fit under the screen because I did not train them this time because of a not dialed in new setup and deficiencies. Wanted them to get healthy first. Yours looks tidy lol!

Cant wait to see your revealed pic of the canopy soon! If I don't see it and if you maybe remember me please notify me when you've uploaded the pictures of your show off!!

 

[medidedicated]

Never seen that much trimming on an auto before. Is yours a sativa?

I just asked on another thread if that was normal, that this leg area defoliated itself at end of stretch and just left me sucker nodes not reach canopy and side buds to prune.

I assumed from dark crammed space with fan obnoxiously blowing at it to air out the bushy canopy.

I put up side lighting like a space bucket as this big mama was just giving me more and more that were worth keeping had the canopy been .5 feet bigger, you’d just let it swing out and bud up.

10 sativa 60indica 30 rudi Lo Ryder derivative, first generation of autos. Too bad it is marketed to newbs that chop on breeder calender dates.

 

[medidedicated]

I see I'm from seed too... I want to clone too but idk right now I'm ok with training seedlings and scrogging them lol.

That auto looks good. Mine just look terrible under the scrognet because it was a christmas tree which I bent over to fit under the screen because I did not train them this time because of a not dialed in new setup and deficiencies. Wanted them to get healthy first. Yours looks tidy lol!

Cant wait to see your revealed pic of the canopy soon! If I don't see it and if you maybe remember me please notify me when you've uploaded the pictures of your show off!!

Will do! Yea autos is up for debate on what they can handle, I am in the side of it being ruderalis and could not be anymore hearty, it became a sub species due to hard climate haha.

I will say with autos, every single day and action and outcome daily, really counts. I did this one pitch perfect in 30 days veg with just 8$ in lighting and a pc fan.

 

[RookieMuffin]

Will do! Yea autos is up for debate on what they can handle, I am in the side of it being ruderalis and could not be anymore hearty, it became a sub species due to hard climate haha.

I will say with autos, every single day and action and outcome daily, really counts. I did this one pitch perfect in 30 days veg with just 8$ in lighting and a pc fan.

Some years ago I did autos too. Had a nice yield and potent buds so yeah I like them too. But I like the photos a bit more since I'm able to control everything. Especially the veg/flower. This time it helped me a lot. They were deficient from day one because the new setup was not dialed in so yeah this time it definetely helped to have photos... If it were autos they would be dead by now or 5 inches tall LOL!

I just asked on another thread if that was normal, that this leg area defoliated itself at end of stretch and just left me sucker nodes not reach canopy and side buds to prune.

I assumed from dark crammed space with fan obnoxiously blowing at it to air out the bushy canopy.

I put up side lighting like a space bucket as this big mama was just giving me more and more that were worth keeping had the canopy been .5 feet bigger, you’d just let it swing out and bud up.

10 sativa 60indica 30 rudi Lo Ryder derivative, first generation of autos. Too bad it is marketed to newbs that chop on breeder calender dates.

I don't want to chop on breeder recommended days too... But I still have to learn some about the best harvest frame... I've read a lot on RIU that people most of the time chop too early... I will need some help with that... I have to open a thread in mid flower and ask people about it and what to look for. I need some explanation and research it. I've read swollen calyxes a lot but right now I don't know what exactly to look for. I def don't want to chop too early! I have time... I don't want to waste weight and potency!

 

[medidedicated]

Some years ago I did autos too. Had a nice yield and potent buds so yeah I like them too. But I like the photos a bit more since I'm able to control everything. Especially the veg/flower. This time it helped me a lot. They were deficient from day one because the new setup was not dialed in so yeah this time it definetely helped to have photos... If it were autos they would be dead by now or 5 inches tall LOL!


I don't want to chop on breeder recommended days too... But I still have to learn some about the best harvest frame... I've read a lot on RIU that people most of the time chop too early... I will need some help with that... I have to open a thread in mid flower and ask people about it and what to look for. I need some explanation and research it. I've read swollen calyxes a lot but right now I don't know what exactly to look for. I def don't want to chop too early! I have time... I don't want to waste weight and potency!

The breeder says 8-9 weeks from seed to chop. I did not even have buds yet. In fact, this is a month later from “harvest time” and still has weeks to go. This is an auto.




It actually does follow a calendar during flower just not ripe, ripe can last a month. Mine followed this calendar to a tee which gets you familiar with early, mid, late flower then ripe.



It is about the white hairs, when 95% of them are orange and receeded and the buds harden to the touch, it is preference at that point but I notice lots of RIU users prefer literally mostly if not all ripened.

Scrog you might end up running into an option to chop it in sections working down, so the light can help finish ripen. I am shooting for a whole plant chop at once.

 

[MtRainDog]

Some years ago I did autos too. Had a nice yield and potent buds so yeah I like them too. But I like the photos a bit more since I'm able to control everything. Especially the veg/flower. This time it helped me a lot. They were deficient from day one because the new setup was not dialed in so yeah this time it definetely helped to have photos... If it were autos they would be dead by now or 5 inches tall LOL!


I don't want to chop on breeder recommended days too... But I still have to learn some about the best harvest frame... I've read a lot on RIU that people most of the time chop too early... I will need some help with that... I have to open a thread in mid flower and ask people about it and what to look for. I need some explanation and research it. I've read swollen calyxes a lot but right now I don't know what exactly to look for. I def don't want to chop too early! I have time... I don't want to waste weight and potency!

Buds themselves are made up of clusters of calyxes. Buds will put on a good amount of bulk in the last few weeks (i.e. calyxes swell), although how bulky is part genetic, part environment.

It's better to think of it as "ripeness" and ripeness is partly subjective, like how ripe someone likes their bananas. It's also good to know that cannibas is an annual flower. It lives one season, puts whatever it can into reproduction (i.e. making flowers, pollen, seeds) then dies.

The plant will show you multiple signs that it's coming to its end. And each plant and strain is a little different. Some of the biggest signs are: swelling of calyxes, browning/receding of pistils, stronger aroma, fading of fan leaves, trichomes turning amber. You're looking to harvest as close to peak ripeness as possible. Just remember it's a little subjective, and the sum of the different signs the plant will show you.

 

[RookieMuffin]

The breeder says 8-9 weeks from seed to chop. I did not even have buds yet. In fact, this is a month later from “harvest time” and still has weeks to go. This is an auto.


View attachment 5265621

It actually does follow a calendar during flower just not ripe, ripe can last a month. Mine followed this calendar to a tee which gets you familiar with early, mid, late flower then ripe.

View attachment 5265622

It is about the white hairs, when 95% of them are orange and receeded and the buds harden to the touch, it is preference at that point but I notice lots of RIU users prefer literally mostly if not all ripened.

Scrog you might end up running into an option to chop it in sections working down, so the light can help finish ripen. I am shooting for a whole plant chop at once.

I'm really interested in that full ripe part. I want to know more about when a bud is fully ripe and developed...