chuckeye
Well-Known Member
It is obviously NOT working for you.....
Your overfeeding just took a while to catch up....
If you are going to be stubborn we can't help you.
Cheers
ProMix HP
- Thread starter homegrownboy
- Start date
Your overfeeding just took a while to catch up....
If you are going to be stubborn we can't help you.
Cheers
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
You could be right. I just don’t understand why every plant I transplant into the new Promix has this issue. As far as the feeding goes, I highly doubt it would take a month for signs to show, especially when the clone isn’t receiving near that amount and has the exact issues right after transplanting. Once the medium is settled it’s fine. That’s what’s making me bang my head against a wall.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking the same. I’ve seen a few others post similar issues I’m having and it’s been chalked up to a bad batch. There is no way it would take a month for a feeding schedule to go haywire overnight. I would have seen signs long before this.
If I were you I'd buy a new bag, transplant 1/2 your plants into it and keep nutrients the same. I'm curious how that might work.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
If she wasn’t in a 15G pot and flowering, I totally would. For now I’m taking my loss, try to work with what I have and start over once these are done. I’m going fully organic from here on out though. Tired of the chemical route after 30ish years of growing.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
My gallon jugs of AN are about 8 years old now. They still seem to work but about 4 years ago I bought 1L bottles of the JJ that I haven't opened yet because I started on my organic experiments about the time I got them. I'm planning to use the JJ this fall when I restart growing.
There is just no way I can think of that your low pH is being caused by fresh HP. Unless you got a bad batch that they forgot to add any lime to but then there would be a lot more people with the same problem. I would be using some Rhino Skin with the nutes to raise the pH and grow hardier plants. I did most of my growing from '01 until just a few years ago doing DWC in Rubbermaid tubs using the older AN 3-part and having to check and adjust pH all the f'n time. I would have it around 5.5 and it would rise to about 6.3 in the three days between top-ups so after a while I'd just top up with RO or distilled water, check ppm and add small amounts of nutes to get back to my target range plus 4 or 5 drops of conc., (96%), sulphuric acid to knock the pH back so didn't check pH but every 3 or 4 top-ups.
Once I got the pH Perfect stuff I retired my pH pen and never checked pH. My last 20 tubs or so I never even changed nutes the whole grow and they grew just fine. Never checked pH growing in straight HP either and have done lots of plants like that.
The JJ uses the exact same NPK ratios as the older 3-part where the pH Perfect stuff is diluted even more. I switch to Lucas Formula type feeding after the stretch but don't follow the formula other than to use 1ml/L Micro to every 2ml/L of Bloom with no Grow. I believe the grow has most of the Mg so also add some Epsom Salts with every watering especially the last few weeks of flower when the extra Mg and S helps resin production and bud fattening. That's what is in the OverDrive along with extra P and K. I use Big Bud for that stuff along with the 20 amino acids and it's about the only AN supplement I ever use other than the Rhino but the Rhino was mainly for DWC as there is going to be some silica in most grow mediums so it's not really required. Zero silica in RO water.
The thing with the pH Perfect stuff is don't mess with the pH. Using RO water is recommended and all I've ever used and never had issues I could blame on the nutes or water.
Very puzzling problem you're having. In pots of HP I rarely used more than 2ml/L of all 3 for feedings and even at that level could still get nute burn thanks to our really low RH here in northern Alberta for most of the year.
Good luck.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
This could be your problem. Have you ever heard about toxic salts buildup, TSB? Constant high levels of nutes build up over time in the leaves where the plant stores the excess until it gets so high the leaves start burning all across their surface. They go all yellow/brown/orange and feel all thick and crispy. This doesn't show up usually until about mid-flower and even with serious flushing will not stop progressing until it even affects teh tiny bud leaves near the end of flowering.
I know with the pH perfect stuff 1ml/L is almost 300ppm. The JJ is going to be even higher than that. Like I mentioned earlier I rarely went over 2ml/L unless whatever strain was showing signs of needing more then I might just feed 3ml/L every 2nd or 3rd watering but stay at 2ml/L between the higher doses. A week before flipping to flower I would feed extra Bloom and a half dose of Big Bud to 'prime the pump' just before flowering. Fast bud development and lots more bud sites than waiting to add the bloom booster 3 weeks into flower like a lot of peeps still say to do.
The stretch period is a huge growth spurt so all the nutrients should be present in higher doses. I will add extra light, set my exhaust fan to wait until it hits 90F before kicking in and light up my alcohol lamp to add lots of extra CO2 for the stretch period only. Amazing growth and ping-pong ball sized buds by the end of the stretch. I used to monitor the ppm drop in my DWC grows and noticed up to 4X the drop during the stretch but returning to normal feed rates as soon as stretch was over. Maintaining high feed levels after the stretch especially with extra P is a great way to get that 'chem' taste in your buds. Less P but more K after the stretch with extra Mg and S is the way I play and I grew my first buds in '78 so have tried almost every style of feeding imaginable in that time. Yes I am an old fart and will be 69 this Oct.
When starting my seedlings/clones I use 1ml/L of each so a 1:1:1 ratio of Grow/:Micro:Bloom. Once rapid growth is established I switch to a 3:2:1 ratio then go back to 1:1:1 a week before flipping with the added half dose of BB. Once stretch is over then switch to Lucas which is a 0:1:2 ratio. I have straight K so will boost a bit with that about the 6th week and up the dose of Epsom too. I'll lower the ppm levels to just straight water with maybe a small dash of K and Epsom the last couple weeks. I want to see lower fan leaves going yellow and limp the last couple weeks so I know the plant is having to steal some N near the end and there are no signs of the dreaded Toxic Salts Buildup.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
You sir, know your shit. I sent you a PM.This could be your problem. Have you ever heard about toxic salts buildup, TSB? Constant high levels of nutes build up over time in the leaves where the plant stores the excess until it gets so high the leaves start burning all across their surface. They go all yellow/brown/orange and feel all thick and crispy. This doesn't show up usually until about mid-flower and even with serious flushing will not stop progressing until it even affects teh tiny bud leaves near the end of flowering.
I know with the pH perfect stuff 1ml/L is almost 300ppm. The JJ is going to be even higher than that. Like I mentioned earlier I rarely went over 2ml/L unless whatever strain was showing signs of needing more then I might just feed 3ml/L every 2nd or 3rd watering but stay at 2ml/L between the higher doses. A week before flipping to flower I would feed extra Bloom and a half dose of Big Bud to 'prime the pump' just before flowering. Fast bud development and lots more bud sites than waiting to add the bloom booster 3 weeks into flower like a lot of peeps still say to do.
The stretch period is a huge growth spurt so all the nutrients should be present in higher doses. I will add extra light, set my exhaust fan to wait until it hits 90F before kicking in and light up my alcohol lamp to add lots of extra CO2 for the stretch period only. Amazing growth and ping-pong ball sized buds by the end of the stretch. I used to monitor the ppm drop in my DWC grows and noticed up to 4X the drop during the stretch but returning to normal feed rates as soon as stretch was over. Maintaining high feed levels after the stretch especially with extra P is a great way to get that 'chem' taste in your buds. Less P but more K after the stretch with extra Mg and S is the way I play and I grew my first buds in '78 so have tried almost every style of feeding imaginable in that time. Yes I am an old fart and will be 69 this Oct.
When starting my seedlings/clones I use 1ml/L of each so a 1:1:1 ratio of Grow/:Micro:Bloom. Once rapid growth is established I switch to a 3:2:1 ratio then go back to 1:1:1 a week before flipping with the added half dose of BB. Once stretch is over then switch to Lucas which is a 0:1:2 ratio. I have straight K so will boost a bit with that about the 6th week and up the dose of Epsom too. I'll lower the ppm levels to just straight water with maybe a small dash of K and Epsom the last couple weeks. I want to see lower fan leaves going yellow and limp the last couple weeks so I know the plant is having to steal some N near the end and there are no signs of the dreaded Toxic Salts Buildup.
StoneDHedgE
Well-Known Member
I have used Sunshine/Promix for decades and decades. I got a dialed in grow space with outstanding light. On a feed water feed cycle. Starting water ec 0.3. I never get over ec 2.2 in late veg and 2.5 ec in flower. At these numbers my plants are healthy and rocking it.
xox
Well-Known Member
the thing about promix is the dolomite lime is added as the peat goes down a conveyor belt so the mixing is not very accurate to say the least at the factory so the ph varies widely from bag to bag. also you'll notice that on the large bails they have a date stamp on the bails packaging its recommended to use the bale within a year of that date. the other thing about peat is it is inherently acidic. is your ph tester digital i would hope your taking accurate readings. sometimes the bail will indeed be a lower ph than the manufacturer intends before potting your plants should do a small test pot and soak it the next day check that test pots ph this will give you an idea if any additional dolomite lime needs to be added to your pots before adding your plants to them. if your ph is indeed low i recommend using a liquid liming agent to immediately correct the ph followed by adding a calcitic lime as it is faster reacting than dolomitic lime to correct your ph again i stress you need a proper instrument to check the mediums ph.
homegrownboy
Well-Known Member
I have an Aperia PH60 tester, and a Bluelab soil tester. I do maintain calibration so there’s minimal issues.
Thank you for your input, propbably one of the more valuable comments. I realize I’ve been out of the game for so long, but I have never had issues like this before where every plant that’s been transplanted into the new medium, gets identical issues at that 7-9 day mark. Everything is smooth up until then. I’m really leaning towards a bad batch of the medium, but not certain. First time using this medium. Always used compost soils in the past for personal grows.