What looks wrong with this plant?

A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
go go kid said:
could be too much water, heat stress or humidity problems, all three cause those leaf edges to curl up.
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Could be heat stress from when I had lights to low. It's weird because that's the only really special plant out of my four plants. He's almost looking kind of stunted. He even look kind of weird as a seedling if I can remember. I guess we just got to play it out like we did in the past. As Long as I get 2-3oz out of her I will be happy. I treated her the same as my others tho. Thats rhevweird part. Like why would she respond so drastically different. I dont think its humidity. She's young. Youngsters like humidity to my knowledge. Overwatering I'm unsure about as well. Mabe it could be stress do due to topping and transplanting. Nxt time I gonna try not to transplant and just plant in the 3 gallon containers. The others didn't respond like that tho
 
go go kid

go go kid

Well-Known Member
Ayokiwi717 said:
Could be heat stress from when I had lights to low. It's weird because that's the only really special plant out of my four plants. He's almost looking kind of stunted. He even look kind of weird as a seedling if I can remember. I guess we just got to play it out like we did in the past. As Long as I get 2-3oz out of her I will be happy. I treated her the same as my others tho. Thats rhevweird part. Like why would she respond so drastically different. I dont think its humidity. She's young. Youngsters like humidity to my knowledge. Overwatering I'm unsure about as well. Mabe it could be stress do due to topping and transplanting. Nxt time I gonna try not to transplant and just plant in the 3 gallon containers. The others didn't respond like that tho
Click to expand...
could just be a duff plant if you've allways had problems with her, but need to know relative humidity, soil type, PH, how offten do you water her, what strength nutes you useing and how offten. as many details as you can give realy, so many problems can look the same, thats why any and all details you give the better
 
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
go go kid said:
could just be a duff plant if you've allways had problems with her, but need to know relative humidity, soil type, PH, how offten do you water her, what strength nutes you useing and how offten. as many details as you can give realy, so many problems can look the same, thats why any and all details you give the better
Click to expand...
Soil type is fox farm happy frog, humidity is 60%, temperature Is like 78. I water like once a week. I wait until pot starts getting light. I transplanted at week 2, and topped 4 days after transplanting. So like day 16 I topped. Ph I haven't. I can never figure out how to fix ph issues, so ya. I do have ph up and ph down, but people say that stuff doesn't actually help. Idk that's the one problem with these forums. One person says to do this and the other gives opposite advice. I hope that helped a little. They are autos. No nutes have been given since they were transplanted not even 2 weeks ago. So was going to wait until mabe week 5 or 6 to start providing 1/4 dose of nutes fox farm trio mabe with some cal mag. When I give nutes I do nutes ever other watering unless they look like there getting to much
 
BongerChonger

BongerChonger

Well-Known Member
I'd say it's hot soil.

Have you been allowing the pot to drain when you water, any runoff?

A whole week is a while to go before needing water again. Would have to be a large pot.
Aeration and drainage might be a little lacking too.
Not much you can do there now.
But in future, you can add some perlite to your potting mix. I think most who use Fox Farm do.

Not much can do in a pot of hot soil. Just keep watering until runoff and don't water too frequently.
Plants should grow out of it.

Ayokiwi717 said:
First sign pr9blems arrived. Hmmmm prob like week one or two she was looking different compared to others. So ya, she just didn't start having issues. She was always the runt
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It's common for the runts and smaller plants to show symptoms first.
 
manfredo

manfredo

Well-Known Member
Ayokiwi717 said:
Soil type is fox farm happy frog, humidity is 60%, temperature Is like 78. I water like once a week. I wait until pot starts getting light. I transplanted at week 2, and topped 4 days after transplanting. So like day 16 I topped. Ph I haven't. I can never figure out how to fix ph issues, so ya. I do have ph up and ph down, but people say that stuff doesn't actually help. Idk that's the one problem with these forums. One person says to do this and the other gives opposite advice. I hope that helped a little. They are autos. No nutes have been given since they were transplanted not even 2 weeks ago. So was going to wait until mabe week 5 or 6 to start providing 1/4 dose of nutes fox farm trio mabe with some cal mag. When I give nutes I do nutes ever other watering unless they look like there getting to much
Click to expand...
Yes. But once you start adding nutes you really should check the PH because certain nutes can swing PH wildly up or down....Unless you buy something like Advanced nutrients PH perfect crap....

It's easy to PH.
 
Z

ZackAttackMack

Well-Known Member
I’m with dude, looks like a soil issue. I’ve had some FF that has concentrated pockets of nutrient rich soil and roots get a little shocked. Test PH (your water and soil) check root system and check for new growth to normalize.
 
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
BongerChonger said:
I'd say it's hot soil.

Have you been allowing the pot to drain when you water, any runoff?

A whole week is a while to go before needing water again. Would have to be a large pot.
Aeration and drainage might be a little lacking too.
Not much you can do there now.
But in future, you can add some perlite to your potting mix. I think most who use Fox Farm do.

Not much can do in a pot of hot soil. Just keep watering until runoff and don't water too frequently.
Plants should grow out of it.


It's common for the runts and smaller plants to show symptoms first.
Click to expand...
I'm using 3 gallon pots and there only just turned 4 weeks. So they should start drinking more I would presume very soon. I do water until runoff. I ihave a hose attached to my sink. I turn it on low and water for a total of 5 min. I tested ppm yesterday. The worst at of all of them consumed the most amount of nutes! What you think is the deal with that. Around 550ppm I believe. I had another around 590ppm and the other two were like 700-800 ish. I didn't give nutes. In prev experience with autos if I give nutes now I'm gonna burn them. I transplanted during week two so I suspect they have atleast another week or two. Im thinking by next feed I'm gonna try with 1/4 dose of fox farm trio with some cal mag. Is it ok to water with plain water first so that I can get my ppm reading, then if I see They eat quite a bit, is it ok to then feed them with nutes?
 
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
manfredo said:
Yes. But once you start adding nutes you really should check the PH because certain nutes can swing PH wildly up or down....Unless you buy something like Advanced nutrients PH perfect crap....

It's easy to PH.
Click to expand...
It may be easy to test ph, but I never figured out how to fix a ph issue. Can you just use ph up or down?
 
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
ZackAttackMack said:
I’m with dude, looks like a soil issue. I’ve had some FF that has concentrated pockets of nutrient rich soil and roots get a little shocked. Test PH (your water and soil) check root system and check for new growth to normalize.
Click to expand...
I will need to check ph next time. I didnt this time. The strange part is she seems to have consumed more food than the others. Yet she looks like crap compared to the others. What does that mean lol .
 
manfredo

manfredo

Well-Known Member
Ayokiwi717 said:
It may be easy to test ph, but I never figured out how to fix a ph issue. Can you just use ph up or down?
Click to expand...
It takes time. Once you get the PH in the correct range they should get better in a week or 2. Look for new healthy growth in the tops.

Are you giving them any Epsom? Plants love Epsom, and use a lot of it.

I think it's probably mostly hot soil, and the one runt is probably just a bad pheno. All in all they don't look bad at all !!
 
BongerChonger

BongerChonger

Well-Known Member
Ayokiwi717 said:
I'm using 3 gallon pots and there only just turned 4 weeks. So they should start drinking more I would presume very soon. I do water until runoff. I ihave a hose attached to my sink. I turn it on low and water for a total of 5 min. I tested ppm yesterday. The worst at of all of them consumed the most amount of nutes! What you think is the deal with that. Around 550ppm I believe. I had another around 590ppm and the other two were like 700-800 ish. I didn't give nutes. In prev experience with autos if I give nutes now I'm gonna burn them. I transplanted during week two so I suspect they have atleast another week or two. Im thinking by next feed I'm gonna try with 1/4 dose of fox farm trio with some cal mag. Is it ok to water with plain water first so that I can get my ppm reading, then if I see They eat quite a bit, is it ok to then feed them with nutes?
Click to expand...
They should snap out of it.
I think plain water is best, until they start to look better. Then feed them. But it's up to you.
I wouldn't trust the numbers you're getting in the runout water, because it's soil, not inert media.
Ayokiwi717 said:
It may be easy to test ph, but I never figured out how to fix a ph issue. Can you just use ph up or down?
Click to expand...
It isn't that easy in your case. You can't rely on the runout water, either, it's inaccurate.

If you're curious about pH, test the pH properly, but don't act on it straight away, consider the variables first.
Most potting mixes are adequately buffered already.

You can test the topsoil, but it's probably the soil further down causing problems if pH is out.
And, you need to take a soil sample, to test with soil pH kit, or make slurry with soil and distilled water to test with pen.
The soil pH kits are best.

It's more difficult to correct a pH problem in soil, because you can't just adjust your input pH, you must buffer the soil.
So to determine what buffer or amendment you need, you must first accurately determine pH.

Also, keep in mind, pH crashes in particular are often the result of stagnant water, aka overwatering.
I'd put it out there overwatering is responsible for most of the problems we experience.
From lockouts, overfeeding and pH problems, to root rot and disease.

I recommend adding more aeration and drainage to your potting mix next-time.
It'll better allow the soil to drain, avoiding build-up and/or overwatering.
And it'll allow you to water or feed more often.
A week seems a bit long for a 3 gallon.
 
Last edited:
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
manfredo said:
It takes time. Once you get the PH in the correct range they should get better in a week or 2. Look for new healthy growth in the tops.

Are you giving them any Epsom? Plants love Epsom, and use a lot of it.

I think it's probably mostly hot soil, and the one runt is probably just a bad pheno. All in all they don't look bad at all !!
Click to expand...
Epsom like Epsom salt?
 
A

Ayokiwi717

Well-Known Member
BongerChonger said:
They should snap out of it.
I think plain water is best, until they start to look better. Then feed them. But it's up to you.
I wouldn't trust the numbers you're getting in the runout water, because it's soil, not inert media.

It isn't that easy in your case. You can't rely on the runout water, either, it's inaccurate.

If you're curious about pH, test the pH properly, but don't act on it straight away, consider the variables first.
Most potting mixes are adequately buffered already.

You can test the topsoil, but it's probably the soil further down causing problems if pH is out.
And, you need to take a soil sample, to test with soil pH kit, or make slurry with soil and distilled water to test with pen.
The soil pH kits are best.

It's more difficult to correct a pH problem in soil, because you can't just adjust your input pH, you must buffer the soil.
So to determine what buffer or amendment you need, you must first accurately determine pH.

Also, keep in mind, pH crashes in particular are often the result of stagnant water, aka overwatering.
I'd put it out there overwatering is responsible for most of the problems we experience.
From lockouts, overfeeding and pH problems, to root rot and disease.

I recommend adding more aeration and drainage to your potting mix next-time.
It'll better allow the soil to drain, avoiding build-up and/or overwatering.
And it'll allow you to water or feed more often.
A week seems a bit long for a 3 gallon.
Click to expand...
How do you buffer the soil? So I can't just test run off?
 
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