Anybody growing mushrooms willing to talk???

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
I wanna do a little Experiment tomorrow. So while I'm waiting for my jars of LC to colonize I wanna try to use up the rest of the LC that I already have made, There's about 5 different strains and to the naked eye They look great. So I wanna make up some Grain jars Using WbS and popcorn. With the same Syringe I wanna Inoculate jars of WbS, jar's Of popcorn, And jars with a mixture of both. Now I'm wondering if it would just be best To keep the grains separate and then mix the corn and WbS at spawn Or if it's even worth doing the experiment. I really haven't gotten popcorn to work for me yet. I've only tried it a couple Times And the jar's colonized super fast and Looked great But ended up losing the tubs.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
One thing on my mind is the temperature of my room. Since the weather is changed it's been hard to keep the heat up in there. I have a space heater In there, but lately it's been getting down to 70°. I've been trying to keep it around 75°. But even that seems a little bit cold, Like when I feel my jars. They feel cold to the touch, And when I walk in my grow tent, it does seem a little chilly for their liking. I'm gonna try shutting the door To the room and getting the heat up to around 77. I feel like the cold is slowing everything down. I have a temperature probe for the tent, a thermometer in the room, and a thermostat on The space heater And at times they all read something different. Usually lower than the space Heater thermometer. Thinking about it. I did have this issue last year too. Something that i'm looking into.

Ok, lower temperatures do nothing but restart growth. This species doesn't much mind temps even in the 60's.

HOWEVER. condensation from cycles of high and low temps can actually move any contam spores from horizontal surfaces onto your grow. If there are spores anywhere that can eventually drip onto your substrate the fact that they are immersed in tiny puddles ensures that the spores will germinate even if they land on healthy mycelium.

Of your cycles go into the high 80's then the mycelium will exude small amounts of high acid and (I suspect) proteins that are conducive to trich growth.

So it's not the low temperatures (or even higher ones) so much as the changes.

Remember that trich spores are sticky so you can actually have horizontal surfaces only inches above your substrate and not get contamination so long as nothing dislodged them like water or insects.

I have seen this phenomenon. It really takes a good little breeze to move them off their localities. I suspect that there is a mechanism that discharges those spores from the sporulating bodies however. I know that other fungus eject spores with considerable force including cubensis, this is why you often see them evenly deposited on top of the caps. (I think)
 
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canndo

Well-Known Member
I wanna do a little Experiment tomorrow. So while I'm waiting for my jars of LC to colonize I wanna try to use up the rest of the LC that I already have made, There's about 5 different strains and to the naked eye They look great. So I wanna make up some Grain jars Using WbS and popcorn. With the same Syringe I wanna Inoculate jars of WbS, jar's Of popcorn, And jars with a mixture of both. Now I'm wondering if it would just be best To keep the grains separate and then mix the corn and WbS at spawn Or if it's even worth doing the experiment. I really haven't gotten popcorn to work for me yet. I've only tried it a couple Times And the jar's colonized super fast and Looked great But ended up losing the tubs.

I can't see a reason for the mix. Other than that it might be good to check on speed of colonization for each.

What exactly is in the wbs?was?

BTW, good on you for attempting to refine your procedures and understanding of the process and the organism. The more you can see the environment the way the mushroom does the more versatile and effective you will be.

Most people fall into the first pattern that at all works for them and never actually understand how everything actually works.
 
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canndo

Well-Known Member
Oh, I am working on a species that has a HUGE diversity of characteristics in the mycelium itself. I acquired only a small dot of spores. I have been isolating various sectors and each, when isolated has radically different characteristics than the others. I can't wait to fruit it.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Oh, I am working on a species that has a HUGE diversity of characteristics in the mycelium itself. I acquired only a small dot of spores. I have been isolating various sectors and each, when isolated has radically different characteristics than the others. I can't wait to fruit it.
Hell yeah there's definitely alot of variations in mycelium for different strains. From ropes like Golden Halo, to clouds like Natalensis. For the longest time now. I've been constantly running a bunch of new strains, And haven't really settled down and mastered one yet. I'm also running a lot of really slow strains like Enigma And PE stuff Which is the worst when I'm getting trich everywhere. I'm narrowing it down to 2 or 3 strains That are fairly easy Until I Figure things out. At this point I've seen so many strains so I'm hitting the brakes. I still have more to learn.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Oh, I am working on a species that has a HUGE diversity of characteristics in the mycelium itself. I acquired only a small dot of spores. I have been isolating various sectors and each, when isolated has radically different characteristics than the others. I can't wait to fruit it.
Felt like throwing an example in
20231023_153434.jpg
20230314_075316.jpg
I still can't tell The huge difference when it's in jars though. Whether it's LC or bird seed, to me they look very similar in jars. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
When do you harvest mushrooms? How do I know when there ready?

Ok, you can pick them any time, they don't really get "ripe". If you pick them small they will be more potent. I suggest you pick them just before or after the veil breaks but that is just to avoid the purple mess.

If you enjoy the way they look and many of us do, wait till the caps are round and partly open or even when they are flat.
 

canndo

Well-Known Member
Felt like throwing an example in
View attachment 5353165
View attachment 5353166
I still can't tell The huge difference when it's in jars though. Whether it's LC or bird seed, to me they look very similar in jars. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough.

The one im working on exhibits whispy mycelium, often only a single hyphae high, others are Grey, some an off yellow, some are cotton, some are cream colored and very very fine.
 

7L!fTeD24

Well-Known Member
Ok, you can pick them any time, they don't really get "ripe". If you pick them small they will be more potent. I suggest you pick them just before or after the veil breaks but that is just to avoid the purple mess.

If you enjoy the way they look and many of us do, wait till the caps are round and partly open or even when they are flat.
Exactly!! I really like Isolations of Strains that don't drop spores so I don't have to Worry about spores getting everywhere. Some i like to pick a little after the veil tears, The caps on some strains damn near Turn inside out and look really cool. Some drop so many spores that I like to pick before the veil even thinks about tearing, like this koh samui strain I just ran, full canopybsonit was hard to get alot before they opened up and they dropped so many spores that the tubs were purple around all the air holes In the tubs.it was a mess and I feel like all those spores are bad to breathe in while harvesting. I don't take spore prints so I prefer things that don't drop spores anymore.
 
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