ok ok ok, I has a Seedling!!!!!

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
I smoked some purple shit with my cousin in Arizona. It was the best weed I ever had. No way could I smoke a whole joint of that. I was used to the brick weed we get around here.
I knew I was fucked when I realized, I was OUTSIDE in OHIO in JANUARY and I could not feel the cold. Ended up staring at a wall for what I thought was 30 seconds, it turned out to be 3.5 hours staring at the same spot on the wall. Straight up Shaggy and Scooby Baked. I was literally BRAIN DEAD, Brain just shut the fuck off.
 

ec121

Well-Known Member
I'm just using straight coco with a tiny bit of perlite in the cup stage. A higher percentage of perlite will be added to bigger pots because when running coco, you want the best drainage you can get.
You're doing this backwards. The seedling stage in coco is where the plant needs better drainage (i.e., more perlite) to provide oxygen to the roots; as it matures, it needs less perlite.

I don't even use perlite at all any more - just 100% coco and my finishing pots are 1g nursery pots. The coco itself has enough aeration to provide oxygen to the roots while fertigating several times a day, it's just that at times in straight coco you need to lay off the gas with certain seedlings for a week or so.
 

LeoRavus

Member
You're doing this backwards. The seedling stage in coco is where the plant needs better drainage (i.e., more perlite) to provide oxygen to the roots; as it matures, it needs less perlite.

I don't even use perlite at all any more - just 100% coco and my finishing pots are 1g nursery pots. The coco itself has enough aeration to provide oxygen to the roots while fertigating several times a day, it's just that at times in straight coco you need to lay off the gas with certain seedlings for a week or so.
I got a lot of my info from the Coco for Cannabis site. He recommends little to no perlite in smaller pots, then up to 50% perlite in the largest pots. As far as drainage, I can pour nutrients on my solo cups with mostly coco all day long and it just runs out while keeping the same saturation.

At the end of the day it doesn't matter much. Depends on how often you want to water later on. If you don't want to feed multiple times a day during flower then less perlite is better. More frequent feeding is supposed to produce bigger yields, hence more perlite in the final containers.
 

LeoRavus

Member
I haven't smoked since the 80's :lol:
I'll tell you what made me take a long break in 2014. That stuff was so amazing I couldn't go back east and puff on that shitty poison smuggled into the country in someone's gas tank. Flat as a pancake, full of seeds and stems, smelled like chemicals. I was just done. That Mexican garbage is so full of pesticides and who knows what. The US government was actually paying the Mexican government to spray paraquat poison on it, but the growers were still sending it here as the plants were dying.

As soon as growing was legalized in my state I went for a legal grow.
 
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ec121

Well-Known Member
I got a lot of my info from the Coco for Cannabis site. He recommends little to no perlite in smaller pots, then up to 50% perlite in the largest pots.
Right, but you missed the part where he said to use the same ratio as the final container ratio; that is, if you're going to use 60/40 in a 5g pot for a final container, then use 60/40 throughout its entire transplant sequence.

At the end of the day it doesn't matter much. Depends on how often you want to water later on. If you don't want to feed multiple times a day during flower then less perlite is better. More frequent feeding is supposed to produce bigger yields, hence more perlite in the final containers.
Pot size is what is important with regard to how often you want to fertigate later on.

A 1g pot with 50/50 perlite will need to be fertigated more often than a 5g pot with 50/50 perlite; same goes for the same pot sizes with zero perlite - it's just that both pots will need to be fertigated less often than each of their respective 50/50 versions.

The more perlite you add (for the same pot size), the more often you will be required to fertigate. However, that doesn't mean you can't fertigate often with little to no perlite. If the root to perlite ratio is sufficient (pot size), you can fertigate every few hours using zero perlite, which is what I do.
 

LeoRavus

Member
Right, but you missed the part where he said to use the same ratio as the final container ratio; that is, if you're going to use 60/40 in a 5g pot for a final container, then use 60/40 throughout its entire transplant sequence.



Pot size is what is important with regard to how often you want to fertigate later on.

A 1g pot with 50/50 perlite will need to be fertigated more often than a 5g pot with 50/50 perlite; same goes for the same pot sizes with zero perlite - it's just that both pots will need to be fertigated less often than each of their respective 50/50 versions.

The more perlite you add (for the same pot size), the more often you will need to fertigate. However, that doesn't mean you can't fertigate often with little to no perlite. If the root to perlite ratio is sufficient, you can fertigate every few hours using zero perlite, which is what I do.
I think the idea behind more perlite in larger containers is faster drainage every feed since either way, if using this method, you'll be watering a lot to keep it at 90% or more saturation. No doubt you could feed pure coco or 50/50 mix 10 times a day if you wanted but which is more convenient if going for 10-20% runoff.

Personally my final mix (every pot after the cup) isn't as perlite heavy as he recommends. It's maybe 20 or 30%. If adding something like peat this method wouldn't work at all since it holds too much water without draining and overwatering would happen.
 
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ec121

Well-Known Member
I think the idea behind more perlite in larger containers is faster drainage every feed since either way, if using this method, you'll be watering a lot to keep it at 90% or more saturation. No doubt you could feed pure coco or 50/50 mix 10 times a day if you wanted but which is more convenient if going for 10-20% runoff.

Personally my final mix (every pot after the cup) isn't as perlite heavy as he recommends. It's maybe 20 or 30%. If adding something like peat this method wouldn't work at all since it holds too much water without draining and overwatering would happen.
The perlite is not about faster drainage; it's about creating pockets of air that provide the plant with access to more oxygen. In DWC the plant is 100% submerged in water at all times, but it gets its oxygen from producing bubbles in the water via an air pump.
 

LeoRavus

Member
The perlite is not about faster drainage; it's about creating pockets of air that provide the plant with access to more oxygen. In DWC the plant is 100% submerged in water at all times, but it gets its oxygen from producing bubbles in the water via an air pump.
It's used for aeration and drainage both in general as a medium. But as you said coco holds enough oxygen on its own, so perlite would mostly benefit soil when it comes to that.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I’m sure I’ll never try vermiculite, and tbh if someone has a phd and has a doctorate to me it means they are the most indoctrinated and anything that goes against the status quo’s is ridiculed and thrown out. I only say this because I have a couple phd family members and sometimes I’m surprised they can tie their own shoe.

And don’t get me started on nasa. So my best guess is this Bruce bugbie guy may be a deep state plant to stop a bunch of people from growing decent cannibus on planet earth, so they say Fuxk this, quit growing and go shop at the dispos. Instead they have you confused you can’t even pick a good medium to start and grow the plants
Really I’m just messing around, being alittle facetious and having fun right! But what’s awesome is this site, and how it’s evolved. Just a year ago a thread like this would be full on rude comments, and newbie bashing to the extreme. Instead I see tons of helpful people all respectfully telling you the same thing but not degrading to any crazy name calling and drama bs. So cheers to that.

anyway. You really don’t have to test this whole grow out. Time is short. Trust the rollituppers. Switch to soil, or a coco/perlite or straight coco
And you will be rewarding much greater than your custom peat/coco/verm mix. Its not to late you will get to harvest faster and more quality even if you sacrifice your last two weeks.

Either way. Good luck, happy about Ohio, my birthstate going legal. And as long as your have fun it don’t matter wtf you do! That’s what’s it’s all about.
Its a riff on Dr.Bruce Bugbees lab soil blend, I simply added Coco coir and More vermeculite to the peat for better drainage(yes, I know, people think it doesnt improve drainage cause it holds water, the science says it does both and i dont argue with the PhDs lol) I do not want to touch the shell im scared ill break off the stem or something! No worries just looked again and the shell fell off on its own lol
 

IndooorGardnerOhio

Well-Known Member
I’m sure I’ll never try vermiculite, and tbh if someone has a phd and has a doctorate to me it means they are the most indoctrinated and anything that goes against the status quo’s is ridiculed and thrown out. I only say this because I have a couple phd family members and sometimes I’m surprised they can tie their own shoe.

And don’t get me started on nasa. So my best guess is this Bruce bugbie guy may be a deep state plant to stop a bunch of people from growing decent cannibus on planet earth, so they say Fuxk this, quit growing and go shop at the dispos. Instead they have you confused you can’t even pick a good medium to start and grow the plants
Really I’m just messing around, being alittle facetious and having fun right! But what’s awesome is this site, and how it’s evolved. Just a year ago a thread like this would be full on rude comments, and newbie bashing to the extreme. Instead I see tons of helpful people all respectfully telling you the same thing but not degrading to any crazy name calling and drama bs. So cheers to that.

anyway. You really don’t have to test this whole grow out. Time is short. Trust the rollituppers. Switch to soil, or a coco/perlite or straight coco
And you will be rewarding much greater than your custom peat/coco/verm mix. Its not to late you will get to harvest faster and more quality even if you sacrifice your last two weeks.

Either way. Good luck, happy about Ohio, my birthstate going legal. And as long as your have fun it don’t matter wtf you do! That’s what’s it’s all about.
If this grow doesnt go well, I likely will switch mediums for sure. But I will say, Dr Bugbee was growin pot in his dorm room in college, and I have saw his grows using his medium and they look amazing so i highly doubt he is a plant. But who knows. lol
 

LeoRavus

Member
You can't have one without the other and be successful. Perhaps when you said faster drainage, maybe what you meant was better drainage.
Yes.

I didn't mean to get the thread off on some tangent. I first posted here because OP was told not give his plant nutrients in soilless medium, which was his original question, until the cotyledons start to fade and wither when it should have been on nutes asap in soilless. That's the kind of misinformation that gets stuck in a search engine for years.
 
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