Mars Hydro UR45 UV&IR Led Grow Light bars

[driver77]

I've noticed running main light below 600w will cause plants to lean toward add on bars big time. I'm still running them with main light schedule.....I think anything lower than 600w will require putting the bars on their own timer and cutting back some hours. Plants are loving life though

 

[driver77]

Here's a couple of the Strawberry Banana fastbud autos looking nice and frosty.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I've noticed running main light below 600w will cause plants to lean toward add on bars big time. I'm still running them with main light schedule.....I think anything lower than 600w will require putting the bars on their own timer and cutting back some hours. Plants are loving life though
View attachment 5310016

Normal. Phototropism, the plants response of turning towards the sun is always stronger the closer you get from blue towards UV.

 

[driver77]

Normal. Phototropism, the plants response of turning towards the sun is always stronger the closer you get from blue towards UV.

I agree...but do you think that the percentage of uv/ir is too high if I'm seeing it?
I'm not seeing any negative effects now that I've upped nutes and dialed in what that plants like under it......what would an excess of uv/ir look like??
I appreciate the input...flying blind here lol

 

[Prawn Connery]

Still running uv/ir with main light schedule in both tents.
View attachment 5300786View attachment 5300787
I had a magnesium deficiency in almost all plants. Because of uv???

That's not magnesium, it's potassium lockout. Notice how it is the largest flowering plant. K deficiency/lockout always starts at the tips and edges of the leaves and you notice it throughout the plant, as it is a mobile nutrient. Too much Cal-Mag in mid-late flowering will lock out potassium, or it could simply be a deficiency.

 

[driver77]

That's not magnesium, it's potassium lockout. Notice how it is the largest flowering plant. K deficiency/lockout always starts at the tips and edges of the leaves and you notice it throughout the plant, as it is a mobile nutrient. Too much Cal-Mag in mid-late flowering will lock out potassium, or it could simply be a deficiency.

It was a deficiency...I found that the add on bars made things accelerate pretty quickly. I've got a better handle on it now but it was a pretty substantial increase in nute demand and growth rate. Now I'm just trying to balance things out a bit in the spectrum department.

 

[Prawn Connery]

Apart from the K deficiency, your plants look fine. We run over 10% far red in our lights and 1% UVA and we run them the whole 12-hour cycle. You're not going to damage your plants with too much Far Red, and they won't stretch excessively if you have UVA in there to counter shade-avoidance. But we run 405nm, because it's also photosynthetic and because UV at the 400nm end of the spetrum is not as strong as 365-385nm – although 385nm is not really that strong, either.

The thing about UV – and light levels in general – is that different plants have different levels of tolerance. Sativas can handle more light than indicas, which will show signs of stress first.

This is an old-school Haze grow, but there are some more mordern Gelatto genetics in there as well. The extreme haze on the right lapped up all the light I gave it (1000+ PPFD), but its sister plant on the left – circled in red – was more indica, so it sarted showing signs of stress, including curled leaves and a bit more internode stretch.

The SFV OG x Gelato plant (Glowstarz by Paradise Seeds) cirled in yellow did not like such high light levels and it showed it by stretching excessively, but only at the top of the plant where the light was strongest. By the time I had found a happy medium, some damage was already done.


The extereme Haze (11-week flower time, so not really extreme) was an absolute beast at those light levels, but even it started to show some very slight bleaching towards the end of the grow. Often, I will scrifice a few tops to get more light into the lower canopy.

 

[Scuzzman]

Very nice crop @Prawn Connery , still has to be the best spec/tech in the market for growing quality/premium dak, a couple more on there way to NZ On a side note - how did your mate get on with the law ?

 

[Prawn Connery]

Very nice crop @Prawn Connery , still has to be the best spec/tech in the market for growing quality/premium dak, a couple more on there way to NZ On a side note - how did your mate get on with the law ?

He's trying to reach a plea bargain. He's going to lose his house and car and some other assets, but they've let him keep his business assets. He is still likely to spend time in jail, but is trying to plea his way out of it.

 

[driver77]

Apart from the K deficiency, your plants look fine. We run over 10% far red in our lights and 1% UVA and we run them the whole 12-hour cycle. You're not going to damage your plants with too much Far Red, and they won't stretch excessively if you have UVA in there to counter shade-avoidance. But we run 405nm, because it's also photosynthetic and because UV at the 400nm end of the spetrum is not as strong as 365-385nm – although 385nm is not really that strong, either.

The thing about UV – and light levels in general – is that different plants have different levels of tolerance. Sativas can handle more light than indicas, which will show signs of stress first.

This is an old-school Haze grow, but there are some more mordern Gelatto genetics in there as well. The extreme haze on the right lapped up all the light I gave it (1000+ PPFD), but its sister plant on the left – circled in red – was more indica, so it sarted showing signs of stress, including curled leaves and a bit more internode stretch.

The SFV OG x Gelato plant (Glowstarz by Paradise Seeds) cirled in yellow did not like such high light levels and it showed it by stretching excessively, but only at the top of the plant where the light was strongest. By the time I had found a happy medium, some damage was already done.
View attachment 5312124

The extereme Haze (11-week flower time, so not really extreme) was an absolute beast at those light levels, but even it started to show some very slight bleaching towards the end of the grow. Often, I will scrifice a few tops to get more light into the lower canopy.

View attachment 5312128

View attachment 5312127

Thanks for the input....I noticed the light tolerance differences long ago but it almost seems the uv/ir smoothed that out a bit. My thoughts where that if that plants seem happy it should be fine...nice to have some confirmation. Just amazed at how much difference the uv/ir made. Got some girls in the nursery that should be interesting in a few weeks...
Nice grow!

 

[shotnva777]

I've noticed running main light below 600w will cause plants to lean toward add on bars big time. I'm still running them with main light schedule.....I think anything lower than 600w will require putting the bars on their own timer and cutting back some hours. Plants are loving life though
View attachment 5310016

So did you ever figure out how to wire the IR and UV seperately. I 100% believe that they both should be ran, whenever the light is on, as thats the way the sun does it and also every HID we've ever grown with! Lol. But I'm intrigued about cutting JUST the IR on (and some supplemental 660nm panels I have) before my main Fluence Spydr 2p cuts on for the day. I also would like JUST the IR to stay on for a few mins, after lights out...

Google found a thread on it, but it seems to have been deleted!

 

[driver77]

So did you ever figure out how to wire the IR and UV seperately. I 100% believe that they both should be ran, whenever the light is on, as thats the way the sun does it and also every HID we've ever grown with! Lol. But I'm intrigued about cutting JUST the IR on (and some supplemental 660nm panels I have) before my main Fluence Spydr 2p cuts on for the day. I also would like JUST the IR to stay on for a few mins, after lights out...

Google found a thread on it, but it seems to have been deleted!

No way to do it short of a separate ballast....or buying 2 sets to get the desired times.
I wanted to do the same as your describing to help simulate sunrise/sunset. I settled on running both uv/ir with main light schedule except 2hrs on 1 hr off.....thats with 650w of main light....less main would require more off time....of course more main would allow for longer on time. I'm very pleased with results I get now, super dense buds, more terps, and I believe more potency although there is still some debate on that in the scientific community....the potency part that is.

 

[shotnva777]

No way to do it short of a separate ballast....or buying 2 sets to get the desired times.
I wanted to do the same as your describing to help simulate sunrise/sunset. I settled on running both uv/ir with main light schedule except 2hrs on 1 hr off.....thats with 650w of main light....less main would require more off time....of course more main would allow for longer on time. I'm very pleased with results I get now, super dense buds, more terps, and I believe more potency although there is still some debate on that in the scientific community....the potency part that is.

Oh no, there's a way to do it pal! I figured it out...

I just had to order a DCV timer, for LEDS up to 38w. Now, by splicing this timer in, right after the splitter (on the UV side) I can run my UV during the peak hours, instead of all day - without having to switch it on myself!

I'm going to hook the main 110v plug into a 110v timer, set 10 Mims before lights on and 10 Mins after. That way its timed the way I want... the IR won't be powered at this time, as it's power won't switch on from the driver/switch Until the other timer says so. Here the link!

 

[driver77]

Oh no, there's a way to do it pal! I figured it out...

I just had to order a DCV timer, for LEDS up to 38w. Now, by splicing this timer in, right after the splitter (on the UV side) I can run my UV during the peak hours, instead of all day - without having to switch it on myself!

I'm going to hook the main 110v plug into a 110v timer, set 10 Mims before lights on and 10 Mins after. That way its timed the way I want... the IR won't be powered at this time, as it's power won't switch on from the driver/switch Until the other timer says so. Here the link!

It's funny I just thought of this method a few days ago! I thought best to put both low voltage leads on timers and just leave the ballast powered all the time. I didn't bother sourcing the timers though....great job!

 

[shotnva777]

It's funny I just thought of this method a few days ago! I thought best to put both low voltage leads on timers and just leave the ballast powered all the time. I didn't bother sourcing the timers though....great job!

That's the plan

 

[driver77]

That's the plan

Did you get it to work?

 

[driver77]

Oh no, there's a way to do it pal! I figured it out...

I just had to order a DCV timer, for LEDS up to 38w. Now, by splicing this timer in, right after the splitter (on the UV side) I can run my UV during the peak hours, instead of all day - without having to switch it on myself!

I'm going to hook the main 110v plug into a 110v timer, set 10 Mims before lights on and 10 Mins after. That way its timed the way I want... the IR won't be powered at this time, as it's power won't switch on from the driver/switch Until the other timer says so. Here the link!

Did it work? Details pleease!