Data sheet for HLG rspec fr quantum board/general help

M

mscritch

Member
Hello everyone!

Does anyone have a data sheet for HLGs rspec fr board? Their website https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/qb288-rspec-fr-quantum-board doesnt seem to show one? At least not one i can find.

Im wanting to make a build incorporating samsung lm301s (still unsure of whether H evo, H, or Bs) and these quantum boards for the red spectrum.

I need to figure out a driver and have tons and tons of other questions if anyone is willing to give a noob builder and grower some advice
 
The Dawg

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
M

mscritch

Member
Okay so thats what got me started, im basically wanting to expand on his ideas here to fit my grow space/strategy.

Ill post a drawing of my plan, i think i got the idea i just want to make sure i get the right drivers. So its basically his 4x4 spread out, but i have 2 less strips total and want to wire 3 sets of parallels in series instead of 2 and then i want to add another driver with 6 quantum boards on it and tie the two together to draw from the same power supply and dim evenly. The spread should cover 8x8 tent split into 3 sections, to cover 3 scrog nets with a little walkway in between them

So its kinda like 3 lights, ill have 3 frames for them, but all wired together so i dont have to buy so many drivers. The first pic is "one light" that ill have 3 of, the second pic is all together and how i think is best to wire them. Im just not quite sure how to do the math on them like that, i assume figure out the parallel amps draw from each "set" of series and then multiply by 3 for the 3 series, will give me the amps needed for the driver?

Am I on the right track here?
 
M

mscritch

Member
And the other thing is, the best im finding is the q series strips using lm301b, what strips use the lm301h evo?
 
M

mscritch

Member
boostedhonda said:
Cheaper to just buy a light
Click to expand...
I understand it would be both easier and quicker, but I feel I can get a light that suits my space, has more ppfd and spectrum wanted for less or about the same as store bought, especially if i can basically wire 3 lights into one and save on buying drivers or multiple lights with multiple drivers already
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
There is still the efficiency lssue with driver losses too .
Paper data among leds really is negligible in the field.
I would add strips only for missing components like IR or UV to widen the spectrum being thrown at plants.

But good luck in your DIY adventure. Been awhile since i built something separate from buying a store bought rig.

Like this one - 2015 year bought QB304 ( 3500k ) boards and Citi Cobs . Still going strong 8 years later. Separate dimmer control for boards and COBS.
IMG_5038.jpeg
 
M

mscritch

Member
I was hoping to get more coverage with the strips, because i technically want to cover more like a 2.5x4 space, and ive always heard the bar lights give better light coverage. So i figured, combine the two to have high intensity (i also want to play with CO2 in the coming year) and thorough coverage.

That build looks great man! And thank you for your advice
 
gooshpoo

gooshpoo

Well-Known Member
1000001670.jpg
Series/parallel can work but its not ideal you should run a series when doing LEDs its a more simple calculation than the S/P series is also more efficient. this is a safer alternative to what you are trying to do.
 
M

mscritch

Member
gooshpoo said:
View attachment 5364810
Series/parallel can work but its not ideal you should run a series when doing LEDs its a more simple calculation than the S/P series is also more efficient. this is a safer alternative to what you are trying to do.
Click to expand...
That makes sense, is this diagram youve drawn not in parallel? I thought series was pos to neg and parallel is pos to pos, neg to neg?
 
Fallguy111

Fallguy111

Well-Known Member
I went down the path of diy. I ended up getting an everything from hlg, better prices per watt. I made a 4 qb 600watt light for about $250 complete.
 
gooshpoo

gooshpoo

Well-Known Member
mscritch said:
That makes sense, is this diagram youve drawn not in parallel? I thought series was pos to neg and parallel is pos to pos, neg to neg?
Click to expand...
Yes you are correct above is a parallel setup if you want to do a series you would have the + come in on the first board and the - come in on the last board, connecting each board by connecting the + to the - .
 
Reekwind

Reekwind

Member
Nice to see people are still building lights :)


I would recommend choosing to either do a full strip build or a full board build.

Buying boards with heatsinks from HLG, Atreum, Kingbrite etc. is the easiest path but strips will give you a more uniform light source that can also be closer to the canopy.

With the setup you've drawn, you'll have both hot spots and cold spots and you'll have to have the boards further away from the canopy than the strips and the strips will shade out some of the light from the boards.


LM301H and LM301H Evo are basically just product marketing for the horticulture market, they're not actually any different from LM301B and the bin batch you get has way more to say than B, H, or H Evo.

I highly recommend using the 2' Samsung H-inFlux strips, they're sturdy and easy to build with. You can get them from Digikey, Arrow etc.


Series, parallel, or mixed doesn't really matter, I usually let the ideal driver for the light I'm building decide which route I take.

A single driver will be a tad too weak for each of the builds maxing at about 600w each, the board build should be 750-800w, stip build depends on the strips used :)
Building bigger lights is also more complicated and more prone to making wiring mistakes and then having to backtrack a lot of connections.
Having everything set up as per your drawing would mean a whole lot of wiring, and you'd end up with a single HUGE lamp that'll be a pain to work with when growing.
Multiple lamps makes framework and wiring much easier, waaaaaay neater, and the wiring will be a whole lot shorter (and voltage drop is no joke :) ).
I'd recommend using the Mean Well HLG series drivers and do parallel wiring, it's the easiest if it's the first light you're building.
At first glance I'd say building 6x 250w lights, 2 for each row, would be sufficient but 6x 330w lights would absolutely slay :leaf:


I can easily help you with complete suggestions and schematics if you answer a few questions:

How big are the 3 active grow areas respectively?

What's your materials budget and max wattage willingness?

Are you planning to have a switchbord/controlboard with drivers, dimmer, and timers?
 
M

mscritch

Member
Reekwind said:
Nice to see people are still building lights :)


I would recommend choosing to either do a full strip build or a full board build.

Buying boards with heatsinks from HLG, Atreum, Kingbrite etc. is the easiest path but strips will give you a more uniform light source that can also be closer to the canopy.

With the setup you've drawn, you'll have both hot spots and cold spots and you'll have to have the boards further away from the canopy than the strips and the strips will shade out some of the light from the boards.


LM301H and LM301H Evo are basically just product marketing for the horticulture market, they're not actually any different from LM301B and the bin batch you get has way more to say than B, H, or H Evo.

I highly recommend using the 2' Samsung H-inFlux strips, they're sturdy and easy to build with. You can get them from Digikey, Arrow etc.


Series, parallel, or mixed doesn't really matter, I usually let the ideal driver for the light I'm building decide which route I take.

A single driver will be a tad too weak for each of the builds maxing at about 600w each, the board build should be 750-800w, stip build depends on the strips used :)
Building bigger lights is also more complicated and more prone to making wiring mistakes and then having to backtrack a lot of connections.
Having everything set up as per your drawing would mean a whole lot of wiring, and you'd end up with a single HUGE lamp that'll be a pain to work with when growing.
Multiple lamps makes framework and wiring much easier, waaaaaay neater, and the wiring will be a whole lot shorter (and voltage drop is no joke :) ).
I'd recommend using the Mean Well HLG series drivers and do parallel wiring, it's the easiest if it's the first light you're building.
At first glance I'd say building 6x 250w lights, 2 for each row, would be sufficient but 6x 330w lights would absolutely slay :leaf:


I can easily help you with complete suggestions and schematics if you answer a few questions:

How big are the 3 active grow areas respectively?

What's your materials budget and max wattage willingness?

Are you planning to have a switchbord/controlboard with drivers, dimmer, and timers?
Click to expand...
The whole tent is 8x8 but i realized if i fill the whole thing up i wont be able to get to the back as my tent has to be against the wall where its at, so i decided to do it as three 2x4 (ish) areas with a 1' walkway between them, and using scrog nets to (mostly) contain 4 plants to that 2x4 space. Thats why i decided on 3 lights (or more if thats what you suggest), to be able to perfectly cover each space. The boards were more for intensity and the Rspectrum for bigger yields and denser buds, but i do see what youre saying on hot and cold spots going that way.

Budget wise, im hoping i can get it in the $700-1000usd (total) range, as thats about what 3 store lights would be with adequate coverage and par, BUT im hoping spending the same amount of money i can make it more intense in order to be able to experiment with co2 shortly. Plus, theres just something about me where i just gotta do it myself. Ive heard of store boards catching on fire and my grandpa always taught me if you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself.

I dont care about wattage, i already spend an absurd amount of money on smoke a month, so unless it spikes my bill like 4-5x normal, im still saving lol
 
M

mscritch

Member
Here's my full 8x8 room (to scale mostly) im setting up for perpetual cycling. Every 3-4 weeks one of those groups of 4 plants outlined in the blue "moves" by the arrows (although it will only actually move from tent to tent once, not inside, ill just know where its at in line). When one crops, i start the next seeds/clones. Have 9 ish weeks (depending on plant growth) from seed/clone and veg to flower, and 9 ish weeks in flower. Should crop 4 plants every 3-4 weeks in a perfect world.

1000001672.jpg
 
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