atrocity's Extremely Monstrous - DWC - Tropicana Poison F1 FAST (3) and Strawberry Cough (1)

iimdomitable

iimdomitable

Active Member
ahhh shit here we go again...Lets get it started. I've been a member for over 10+ years lurking in the shadows and now its time step into the LIGHT. This is my first grow using the DWC setup so cut me some slack.

My ingredients are:
1 x Phlizon FD6000 640W Full-spectrum Daisy Chain Dimmable LED Grow Light with Samung 281B LED
1 x 6x6 Grow tent
1 x 5 bucket Vevor Hydroponic Deep Water Culture
1 x 4'inch Air filtration Kit and Inline fan

And thats all she wrote. I have plans to implement C02 to the grow tent via tank and regulator.

After being an avid soil grower I wanted to give Hydro a shot...and ohhhhh boy. We're currently 24 days into the grow cycle and were experiencing unfavorable results. For starters ALOT of the leaves have brown spots or browning at the edges. My inkling is that its something to do with the water.

My plan of action to get the girls back order is a "Rinse and Repeat". Drain out the water, scrub down the buckets, and replace the buckets with clean RO water.

To be continued........
 

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Mr. Mohaskey

Mr. Mohaskey

Well-Known Member
You currently using RO water? What is your nute strength and PH level? What are the ambient temp and relative humidity?
 
iimdomitable

iimdomitable

Active Member
Back like I never left...I "think" the girls are doing much better. Last week I completed my "rinse and repeat". Scrubbed out the buckets, pumped out the water, and restarted with fresh RO water and nutrients. Next, i swapped out the tiny golf ball sized air stones for larger 4inch disc shapped stones.

Temperature: 77-81 degrees
PH: 5.0-5.7
PPM: 600-711 (thinking of mixing a stronger nutrient batch during the new water swap)
Water Temperature: 79.5 degrees
Humidity: 35% to 41%

Although they're showing signs progress my "gut" is telling something is stilllllll a bit off. Tons of tiny low deficient leaves and still receiving brown spots on larger leafs.

My master plan to resolve these issues is to mix a stronger Nutrient batch. The Canna Nutrient guide (attached below) states my PPM should be much Higher. My readings are 600-750 PPM and they should be around 1,000 PPM.

Time to start throwing Darts at the board....
 

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D

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Your pH is much too low. In hydro, 5.8 is considered optimal.

Temp + RH can be combined in one number called Vapor Pressure Deficit. It's like the "feel like temperature" for humans. At 77° and 40%, you plant is taking in a lot of water to try to cool off and it's evaporating very quickly. The leaves show a nutrient imbalance, as a result.

This screenshot shows that you should have a "VPD" of about 1.0 but at 77 and 40, your VPD I 1.7 and at 81, it's 1.9. In veg, you should have plants at 1.0. When you hit 1.9, your plants health will suffer.

Bring up you RH to 60±%.

More info on VPD here.
1711932921243.png

Don't "push" nutes. If you force feed a human, it vomits. Plants are no different.

Per @HydoDan, at that water temp, you're inviting root rot. Drop the temp in the buckets into the 60's if you can. If you can't add "bennies" (beneficial bacteria) such as Hydroguard or run "sterile" where use use H2O2 to destroy bacteria. I use Hydroguard.
What you're looking for is to provide enough chemicals so that the plant is in the sufficiency range. Adding more chemicals can cause both imbalances and toxicity.

In veg, I rarely need over EC 1 to 1.2 (500 to 600PPM on the 500 scale).


Nutrient Sufficiency.png

Light - light is how plants make food. Best move is to get a light meter and use the paper I've attached (I'm the author). A Uni-T light meter is $32. If you don't want to spend the $32 on the light meter, it's usually a good bet to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
 

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tyler.durden

tyler.durden

Well-Known Member
What do your roots look like? Those are high rez temps, so you should be using something to ward off root rot. I do aero with bennies, and use Ecofix from a company called API. My rez temps get to 80f, and my roots are still pristine. Great, cheap product...



IMG_2897.JPG
 
tyler.durden

tyler.durden

Well-Known Member
Tomatoesonly said:
Wait, wait, wait, wait.... a guy above just said with high confidence, that his temps NEED to be 66-68?1?!?! So clearly your picture is a product of A.I.
Click to expand...

He is correct. Without an additive like chlorine or bennies, 66-68f is the ideal water temp range to ward off root rot. The additives are sometimes easier than adding a chiller, so I just use those.
 
iimdomitable

iimdomitable

Active Member
"Breaking news: local enthusiast achieves groundbreaking breakthrough in the world of cannabis cultivation! DWC skeptics, prepare to eat your words! The girls are on the right track and everything is on auto-pilot 8-). @Delps8 Who would of thought PHing the water to 5.8, dialing in the temperature, and acquiring a water chiller would resolve all my issues? For now I plan to Veg for a few more weeks and then flip to flower. They're growing up right in front of my eyes :cry:

PH: 5.8
Tempertaure: 77
Humidity: 60%
42 Gallon Aquarium Chiller

Planning my future seeds/strains for next cycle and im inbetween NightOwl Auto strain "Harvey Wallbanger" and the photo strain "Lemon Jeffrey".
 

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