Leaves curling upwards

Gemtree

Gemtree

Well-Known Member
Drewhefner said:
Alright I’ll cut down on watering & already removed pest strip
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With coco you either have to water more than once a day or let them dry out a bit like soil till roots are established so they get enough oxygen. I water like soil till the roots are good and grown
 
Drewhefner

Drewhefner

Active Member
Gemtree said:
With coco you either have to water more than once a day or let them dry out a bit like soil till roots are established so they get enough oxygen. I water like soil till the roots are good and grown
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Alright yea I’ll usually water and wait 2 days max for it to dry
 
Drewhefner

Drewhefner

Active Member
Gemtree said:
With coco you either have to water more than once a day or let them dry out a bit like soil till roots are established so they get enough oxygen. I water like soil till the roots are good and grown
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So do I still have hope on reviving them ? Or are they done for now?
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Drewhefner said:
Okay thank you I didn’t know what to call it exactly but how can I fix my problem ? Epsom salts?
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I think it looks like a magnesium deficiency and one of the symptoms is leaf tips curling up along with interveinal chlorosis and as it gets worse brown spots appearing on older and middle growth leaves first.

Epsom Salts will supply Mg and S and the stuff you get at the drugstore is just fine only make sure it is unscented with no other additives.

Magnesium.jpg

:peace:
 
Drewhefner

Drewhefner

Active Member
OldMedUser said:
I think it looks like a magnesium deficiency and one of the symptoms is leaf tips curling up along with interveinal chlorosis and as it gets worse brown spots appearing on older and middle growth leaves first.

Epsom Salts will supply Mg and S and the stuff you get at the drugstore is just fine only make sure it is unscented with no other additives.

View attachment 5390121

:peace:
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Al

OldMedUser said:
I think it looks like a magnesium deficiency and one of the symptoms is leaf tips curling up along with interveinal chlorosis and as it gets worse brown spots appearing on older and middle growth leaves first.

Epsom Salts will supply Mg and S and the stuff you get at the drugstore is just fine only make sure it is unscented with no other additives.

View attachment 5390121

:peace:
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Alright yea that seems like my problem, any good salts you’d recommend me looking into?
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Drewhefner said:
Al


Alright yea that seems like my problem, any good salts you’d recommend me looking into?
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Yeah. Epsom Salts. Can usually find a little 1 pint/ 500ml size milk container at the drug store for a few bux. I get the huge clear jug ones for use as a hot bath soak.
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Drewhefner said:
Alright so they aren’t done for?
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Shouldn't be. I'd maybe get them in proper mix and maybe larger pots if these are the clones in smaller pots.

Generally the best way to deal with ailing plants when you're not positive about the problem is to rehome them with fresh medium that has a well balanced nute mix. In the case of hydro a fresh batch of nutes and maybe a different brand or fresh bottles can get them all fixed up. Very hardy plants and what's happening to yours is so far a minor issue.

You can take a well established plant in say a 1 gal pot, cut the rootball down as small as a pint and stick it in fresh soil and have it looking better in a few days to a week. I've been hacking back rootballs for ages every time I repot.

They're a long way from being a lost cause so have a toke and chillax. pass.gif

:peace:
 
jimbonorman

jimbonorman

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
FFOF is pretty nute dense right out of bag and can power a plant for weeks by itself.

Feeding ( recharging ) can be done simply by adding more fresh soil to containers ( top dressing ).
No other nute lines necessary. You are probably facing antagonism between different nute sources ( I.E. adding flora series on top of the already nute charged soil ). And you said “ no ph “ which would be done to that liquid line when using.

Straight soil , no ph is fine.

Diatomaceous Earth once wet becomes a messy slurry and just kind of causes issues.

Fungus gnats can happen in soil bags but there are less heavy handed ways to control ( yellow stickies - adult flyers ) and dunks for soil drenching.
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budzbuddha have you ever heard of or experienced diatomaceous earth water-logging roots and essentially creating an overwatered plant?
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
jimbonorman said:
budzbuddha have you ever heard of or experienced diatomaceous earth water-logging roots and essentially creating an overwatered plant?
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Not really … Diatomaceous earth is effective dry once wet it becomes a slurry mess. Never really thought it was a good pest management solution because of that very reason.

Only way i think it would work as a topdress for pests is if plant is bottom watered instead of top watered.

Mosquito dunks / Yellow sticky ( for adults ) and other products would be cleaner approach.
 
jimbonorman

jimbonorman

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Not really … Diatomaceous earth is effective dry once wet it becomes a slurry mess. Never really thought it was a good pest management solution because of that very reason.

Only way i think it would work as a topdress for pests is if plant is bottom watered instead of top watered.

Mosquito dunks / Yellow sticky ( for adults ) and other products would be cleaner approach.
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I ask because I use Rootwise Mycorrhiza Complete and it’s 80% diatomaceous earth. DE is known for retaining more moisture so I’m wondering if this has been messing with my failed grows recently…failed due to overwatering
 
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