Bridgelux Strips Driver Advice Needed

SwS

SwS

Member
Hey everyone I'm planning to build a bar led for a 4x4 space the strips I'm using is the
BXEB-L1190U-40E3000-C-C3
4000k - 38.2v - 700mA each
The driver I'm planning to get is the
HLG-320H-C700B
Will that driver be sufficient if wired in series ? Or should I get a other driver and run in parallel?

Would like to run them @700mA due to no sinks required at that current. If a other driver is recommended Dimming is a must please .

On a side note. Does anyone maybe know where I can buy the
BXEB-L1190U-40G3000-C-C3
strips without Having to buy 180 of them lol ?
Thanks in Advance

PS. I posted this in the wrong section previously

BXEB-L1190U-40E3000-C-C3 | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. BXEB-L1190U-40E3000-C-C3 – LED Lighting COBs Engines Modules LED Module EB Series™ Slim Gen 3 White, Neutral Linear Light Strip from Bridgelux. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.co.za www.digikey.co.za

The Strips

HLG-320H-C700B | DigiKey Electronics

Order today, ships today. HLG-320H-C700B – 700mA 214 ~ 428V Constant Current LED Driver AC DC Converter Topology 1 Output from MEAN WELL USA Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.co.za www.digikey.co.za

The Driver
Any advice would be highly appreciated
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Dude, dont, dont use that driver please. Its over 400V, those BLux connectors are not rated for that. I think their rating is like 60V but i know for a fact they can manage a bit more. But not 400, also for your own safety.

The way to do this safely, if youre married with the idea of series connection, is make a string of maybe 2 or even 3 (i tried 4 of the 2 footers with no problems which would be the same as 2 x4 footers), then make parallel strings. It cuts down on the mess.

Is that the slim version? I did not like working with those, very flimsy and they will need backing, my advice is to sink them or go for the regular ebs.

It was also hard finding wire that would work with it. 1mm threaded didnt work. The .75mm threaded had too flimsy wires and didnt work.
Ended up having to rethread 1mm wire which was rigid enough but too thick, down to .75mm. manually with a tool. Youd do this twice per strip. I had 128 strips in that build so not fun.
Ive not worked with reg ebs but i have with blux Vesta which are nice, 30mm pcb. No complaints. But ill never work with the slims again, pita.

If youre in Africa(Zaire?) you may wanna chat with @ANC if hes still around, hes knowledgable about what works for buying in the region and may be able to hook you with somethin i think he was doing light sales.
 
SwS

SwS

Member
@Rocket Soul thank you for that warning bro i appreciate it i didnt know that about the connectors and wouldve burnt my house down. The reason i wanna go with the slims is the efficiency 200lm/w and the lumens output 5000+ per strip. And I'll wire it parallel if need be i don't care much for esthetics as long as it works and is safe I'm a happy camper. What driver would you recommend if I would wire it parallel and @ 700mA ? I appreciate your input.

Ps.why don't i see A like button on posts ?
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Without backing its going to be a disappointing and frustrating experience. These strips are like bent straight out of the box. The side with traces and diodes is more rigid than the the other side, so it kind of bends the two ends upwards.
Sincerely, go for regs.
Also they get hotter than you would think at 700mA. You have the same guidelines with the regs but they are like twice the pcb mass and area. You can get u-profile in aluminum and maybe mount them 2-3 wide on a larger profile but trust me, no backing and you will have a bad time.

For me one of the big likes of diy is turning it on at the first time and getting blinded by the light you just made. If the light looks like shit youll wont feel this. Also in a grow theres allways unexpected things happening. If you work above the light you may drop a tool like a screw driver. With other strips bare no problem, with slims youre tool will damage and break strips, even if its just a screw driver.

Maybe with the 1 footers i could see it work but 4 footers youre asking for disappointment. If you have even the slightest trace of ocd and liking esthetics of straight lines you are going to be sorely disappointed. Go for regs or another strip entirely. Theres more things i could say against the slims but i its hard to explain.
In SA then speak to ANC, i think he calls himself Lion lighting. Or go for a build with more watts per strip and sinking. Its worth it.
Or just sink them 2-3 per sink. Also worth it.
But since these dont have mounting holes youre going to need to glue them. Self adhesive tape doesnt really cut it since the ends tend to be d up towards the side of the diodes.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
If working out a series/parallel wiring scheme it helps to use some kind of constant power driver, meanwells range us xlg but not the best due to size of driver in a good voltage range. The reason why is the slightly odd voltage which doesnt work well with any cv driver unless youre fine with losing 10% output from the driver and using 42V driver.


My best bet would be using something from inventronics for drivers, they have such a great range but you need to see whats available to you. Cant rec a specific inventronics driver cause their web is a mess to search thru but they do have things that work better than the xlgs. Look for a driver around 80V or 120V if going for series of 3.

I only went for the slims due to 90cri. I would not rec them for a first time build at all. Even with 4 footers the amount of work you have to do to get a finished 20-something watt strip is not worth it. If youre fine with 3000k there are many other better alternatives. @Jonesfamily7715 is someone who seems to always know the cheapest prices of strips, there are many deals happening on Arrow and you may be able to find something else which actually does what you want.
 
M

Miragelabs

Member
Rocket Soul said:
If working out a series/parallel wiring scheme it helps to use some kind of constant power driver, meanwells range us xlg but not the best due to size of driver in a good voltage range. The reason why is the slightly odd voltage which doesnt work well with any cv driver unless youre fine with losing 10% output from the driver and using 42V driver.


My best bet would be using something from inventronics for drivers, they have such a great range but you need to see whats available to you. Cant rec a specific inventronics driver cause their web is a mess to search thru but they do have things that work better than the xlgs. Look for a driver around 80V or 120V if going for series of 3.

I only went for the slims due to 90cri. I would not rec them for a first time build at all. Even with 4 footers the amount of work you have to do to get a finished 20-something watt strip is not worth it. If youre fine with 3000k there are many other better alternatives. @Jonesfamily7715 is someone who seems to always know the cheapest prices of strips, there are many deals happening on Arrow and you may be able to find something else which actually does what you want.
Click to expand...
Hello, I'm glad to see your answers about 'slim'. I always see your high-quality replies on issues related to Bridgelux, and I'd like to ask if there are any Bridgelux LED strips worth buying on Digikey now? I want to use Bridgelux to complete my first setup. Or what do you think about Samsung's H InFlux L09? However, it has increased in price recently. Forgive my poor English, thank you.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Miragelabs said:
Hello, I'm glad to see your answers about 'slim'. I always see your high-quality replies on issues related to Bridgelux, and I'd like to ask if there are any Bridgelux LED strips worth buying on Digikey now? I want to use Bridgelux to complete my first setup. Or what do you think about Samsung's H InFlux L09? However, it has increased in price recently. Forgive my poor English, thank you.
Click to expand...
First no probs with English, please excuse my fast typing with all the spelling errors. I recently wrote "let the food times roll" instead of good and couldnt edit it out.

To me working with strips has become somewhat of a nuisance, especially the blux since they tend to be very low watts per strip, especially with the shorter ones. All the work of first mounting then connecting for what, 10w (i like to run softer than nominal usually) of light? Id have to do it 40 times per meter. And on top of that its hard to get things really even as if you make a strip build with homogeneous diode density, the higher you raise the more of a hotspot you get due to more crosslighting. I get most my stuff in china nowadays and concentrate on boards rather than strips; i like some strips ive found in china due extreme diode count in comparison to price. But with cheap boards at low watts you can sort of make the same evenness and control where you want to push more or less by using separate drivers.

The one strip of blux i feel punch over its weight are the vestas gen1, if u can still get them for cheap (ive seen them as cheap as 7 euro + tax here with my local distributor but that was before inflation and i really dont know current prices of anything): about 200 diodes of dual spectrum! Gen2 (not the vesta edge which is only for decor) has the same tricky voltages as gen3 eb strips, their efficiency increase of just under 10% (estimated from other gen3 ebs tested by TEKNIK) is partly down to about 20w per channel at nominal and i just dont know if it would be better to buy 2 gen1 or 1 gen2.

Im a sucker for 90 cri light in low K cause it just seems to give a heavier flower response even if there are efficiency losses. The vesta has both cold white and warm white, with same voltage so they can be run on the same driver for half current in each side. If you push 25w thru the strip half on each side you get about 2.5ppf per watt of a full cycle spectrum around 3700k- if you want veg or more stretch control then you got cold white side which with 90cri - extra red and far red, veg really good or could be used during during stretch to control, and the other warm white side is a beast to flower with, especially if you add some red or even some near uva around 400nm (its hard to add this to your growlight without messing a bit with RBG levels if your using a 4000k spectrum and too much blue hits your yield, and for some reason weve not seen a noticeable effect with using UV when theres a lot of green in the spectrum)
This spectrum combo is actually our best performing light currently with regards to quality, and yield is atleast as good as our other lights.

And the fact that you can get veg and flower and a fullcycle spectrum with extra efficiency from the same diy rig is also great especially if your in just one tent or rub autos. Look thru my posting history i recently posted my fave light ever built, with vesta strips and some other very nifty features. If i could safely shipp those and had the same access to blux as vefore id be manufacturing/larger scale diy those for sale but its to much of a pita, the price would be too high to compare with all the cheapo lights around and i would have to factor in all the time it takes to convince people to use lower efficiency diodes online. Xb

As for other strips you should check around theres a few gere who control prices better than me. But id look into what spectrum you want rather than what make and model, and if diying what you would like to supplement with.
GLA strips are really nice and have sooooo nice quality and features (super spectrum, super efficiency for being 90cri based and really nice seal which is nice if you wanna burn sulphur, which would eat away at diodes normally) but theyre pricey especially if youre anywhere but australia.
Theres some decent strips in china and with the right company youd be able to get something custom which may be another way.
 
SwS

SwS

Member
Rocket Soul said:
Without backing its going to be a disappointing and frustrating experience. These strips are like bent straight out of the box. The side with traces and diodes is more rigid than the the other side, so it kind of bends the two ends upwards.
Sincerely, go for regs.
Also they get hotter than you would think at 700mA. You have the same guidelines with the regs but they are like twice the pcb mass and area. You can get u-profile in aluminum and maybe mount them 2-3 wide on a larger profile but trust me, no backing and you will have a bad time.

For me one of the big likes of diy is turning it on at the first time and getting blinded by the light you just made. If the light looks like shit youll wont feel this. Also in a grow theres allways unexpected things happening. If you work above the light you may drop a tool like a screw driver. With other strips bare no problem, with slims youre tool will damage and break strips, even if its just a screw driver.

Maybe with the 1 footers i could see it work but 4 footers youre asking for disappointment. If you have even the slightest trace of ocd and liking esthetics of straight lines you are going to be sorely disappointed. Go for regs or another strip entirely. Theres more things i could say against the slims but i its hard to explain.
In SA then speak to ANC, i think he calls himself Lion lighting. Or go for a build with more watts per strip and sinking. Its worth it.
Or just sink them 2-3 per sink. Also worth it.
But since these dont have mounting holes youre going to need to glue them. Self adhesive tape doesnt really cut it since the ends tend to be d up towards the side of the diodes.
Click to expand...
I hear you if it bends at the edges it's bound to come loose from the sinks at some time ? @ANC I visited his profile but it seems he is MIA for a while now and don't find anything of Lion Lighting I looked through the list of EB GEN 3's on digikey not the slims and came to the conclusion to reach the same Lumens output and still want to use Blux I would have to use 20 +- strips and 2 driver which uncreases budget. The other option is to use F series samsung strips but those are a bit pricey. I would prefer the 4000k cct strips due to being more full spectrum then 3000k which leans more to red and 4000k has red and blue though they don't have as much red as 3000k I can always supplement later on.
 
SwS

SwS

Member
Rocket Soul said:
First no probs with English, please excuse my fast typing with all the spelling errors. I recently wrote "let the food times roll" instead of good and couldnt edit it out.

To me working with strips has become somewhat of a nuisance, especially the blux since they tend to be very low watts per strip, especially with the shorter ones. All the work of first mounting then connecting for what, 10w (i like to run softer than nominal usually) of light? Id have to do it 40 times per meter. And on top of that its hard to get things really even as if you make a strip build with homogeneous diode density, the higher you raise the more of a hotspot you get due to more crosslighting. I get most my stuff in china nowadays and concentrate on boards rather than strips; i like some strips ive found in china due extreme diode count in comparison to price. But with cheap boards at low watts you can sort of make the same evenness and control where you want to push more or less by using separate drivers.

The one strip of blux i feel punch over its weight are the vestas gen1, if u can still get them for cheap (ive seen them as cheap as 7 euro + tax here with my local distributor but that was before inflation and i really dont know current prices of anything): about 200 diodes of dual spectrum! Gen2 (not the vesta edge which is only for decor) has the same tricky voltages as gen3 eb strips, their efficiency increase of just under 10% (estimated from other gen3 ebs tested by TEKNIK) is partly down to about 20w per channel at nominal and i just dont know if it would be better to buy 2 gen1 or 1 gen2.

Im a sucker for 90 cri light in low K cause it just seems to give a heavier flower response even if there are efficiency losses. The vesta has both cold white and warm white, with same voltage so they can be run on the same driver for half current in each side. If you push 25w thru the strip half on each side you get about 2.5ppf per watt of a full cycle spectrum around 3700k- if you want veg or more stretch control then you got cold white side which with 90cri - extra red and far red, veg really good or could be used during during stretch to control, and the other warm white side is a beast to flower with, especially if you add some red or even some near uva around 400nm (its hard to add this to your growlight without messing a bit with RBG levels if your using a 4000k spectrum and too much blue hits your yield, and for some reason weve not seen a noticeable effect with using UV when theres a lot of green in the spectrum)
This spectrum combo is actually our best performing light currently with regards to quality, and yield is atleast as good as our other lights.

And the fact that you can get veg and flower and a fullcycle spectrum with extra efficiency from the same diy rig is also great especially if your in just one tent or rub autos. Look thru my posting history i recently posted my fave light ever built, with vesta strips and some other very nifty features. If i could safely shipp those and had the same access to blux as vefore id be manufacturing/larger scale diy those for sale but its to much of a pita, the price would be too high to compare with all the cheapo lights around and i would have to factor in all the time it takes to convince people to use lower efficiency diodes online. Xb

As for other strips you should check around theres a few gere who control prices better than me. But id look into what spectrum you want rather than what make and model, and if diying what you would like to supplement with.
GLA strips are really nice and have sooooo nice quality and features (super spectrum, super efficiency for being 90cri based and really nice seal which is nice if you wanna burn sulphur, which would eat away at diodes normally) but theyre pricey especially if youre anywhere but australia.
Theres some decent strips in china and with the right company youd be able to get something custom which may be another way.
Click to expand...
@Rocket Soul you are a star bro didn't think of the vesta series and they cheap aswell on digikey I'll have a look and post a build suggestion. I'll have a look at your posts thanks a mil bro appreciate it
 
M

Miragelabs

Member
Rocket Soul said:
First no probs with English, please excuse my fast typing with all the spelling errors. I recently wrote "let the food times roll" instead of good and couldnt edit it out.

To me working with strips has become somewhat of a nuisance, especially the blux since they tend to be very low watts per strip, especially with the shorter ones. All the work of first mounting then connecting for what, 10w (i like to run softer than nominal usually) of light? Id have to do it 40 times per meter. And on top of that its hard to get things really even as if you make a strip build with homogeneous diode density, the higher you raise the more of a hotspot you get due to more crosslighting. I get most my stuff in china nowadays and concentrate on boards rather than strips; i like some strips ive found in china due extreme diode count in comparison to price. But with cheap boards at low watts you can sort of make the same evenness and control where you want to push more or less by using separate drivers.

The one strip of blux i feel punch over its weight are the vestas gen1, if u can still get them for cheap (ive seen them as cheap as 7 euro + tax here with my local distributor but that was before inflation and i really dont know current prices of anything): about 200 diodes of dual spectrum! Gen2 (not the vesta edge which is only for decor) has the same tricky voltages as gen3 eb strips, their efficiency increase of just under 10% (estimated from other gen3 ebs tested by TEKNIK) is partly down to about 20w per channel at nominal and i just dont know if it would be better to buy 2 gen1 or 1 gen2.

Im a sucker for 90 cri light in low K cause it just seems to give a heavier flower response even if there are efficiency losses. The vesta has both cold white and warm white, with same voltage so they can be run on the same driver for half current in each side. If you push 25w thru the strip half on each side you get about 2.5ppf per watt of a full cycle spectrum around 3700k- if you want veg or more stretch control then you got cold white side which with 90cri - extra red and far red, veg really good or could be used during during stretch to control, and the other warm white side is a beast to flower with, especially if you add some red or even some near uva around 400nm (its hard to add this to your growlight without messing a bit with RBG levels if your using a 4000k spectrum and too much blue hits your yield, and for some reason weve not seen a noticeable effect with using UV when theres a lot of green in the spectrum)
This spectrum combo is actually our best performing light currently with regards to quality, and yield is atleast as good as our other lights.

And the fact that you can get veg and flower and a fullcycle spectrum with extra efficiency from the same diy rig is also great especially if your in just one tent or rub autos. Look thru my posting history i recently posted my fave light ever built, with vesta strips and some other very nifty features. If i could safely shipp those and had the same access to blux as vefore id be manufacturing/larger scale diy those for sale but its to much of a pita, the price would be too high to compare with all the cheapo lights around and i would have to factor in all the time it takes to convince people to use lower efficiency diodes online. Xb

As for other strips you should check around theres a few gere who control prices better than me. But id look into what spectrum you want rather than what make and model, and if diying what you would like to supplement with.
GLA strips are really nice and have sooooo nice quality and features (super spectrum, super efficiency for being 90cri based and really nice seal which is nice if you wanna burn sulphur, which would eat away at diodes normally) but theyre pricey especially if youre anywhere but australia.
Theres some decent strips in china and with the right company youd be able to get something custom which may be another way.
Click to expand...
Thank you, sir,
your response is really helpful. I have gone through a lot of your previous posts, and I can see your participation in many professional-level issues, which is great, and I also thank you for replying to me. I saw that the Vesta Gen1 is still available on Digikey, and the price is about 10 euros including tax. I would like to ask how many Vestas I should use in a 3x3 tent?

I'm sorry, I'm a new grower, and I may not be able to answer too professional questions. I hope to obtain some full-cycle-spectrum suitable lights. and I plan to supplement with 660nm and 405nm. I want to drive the strips gently to avoid the complex construction problems (and high costs) caused by heat dissipation. I bought some Osram CSSRM3.HW LED Chip on the local second-hand market. This LED seems to bring some light similar to the 301H Evo Mint White (I'm not quite sure). By the way, do you still recommend the Vesta™ Tunable Linear Gen 3, 80CRI strips? I saw that the price on Digikey is 14 euros per piece including tax.
 
M

Miragelabs

Member
Rocket Soul said:
GLA strips are really nice and have sooooo nice quality and features (super spectrum, super efficiency for being 90cri based and really nice seal which is nice if you wanna burn sulphur, which would eat away at diodes normally) but theyre pricey especially if youre anywhere but australia.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your recommendation. It's a pity that purchasing GLA from Australia is difficult for me because I am not in Australia.
If there's an opportunity, I would try to purchase some

Miragelabs said:
I bought some Osram CSSRM3.HW LED Chip on the local second-hand market. This LED seems to bring some light similar to the 301H Evo Mint White (I'm not quite sure).
Click to expand...
And this is additional information as a follow-up to my previous response

IMG_3270.PNG
Vesta™ Tunable Linear Gen 3, 80CRI ： https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bridgelux/BXEB-TL-L0560Z-2750E2000-A-C3/13181796?s=N4IgTCBcDaIEIA0CicC0AVAMqzAGArAGy4BaqYA7PrkmLvagIKoDCAzCALoC+QA

Vesta Gen1：https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bridgelux/BXEB-TL-2750G-3000-A-13/7899252

Thank you again
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Miragelabs said:
Thank you, sir,
your response is really helpful. I have gone through a lot of your previous posts, and I can see your participation in many professional-level issues, which is great, and I also thank you for replying to me. I saw that the Vesta Gen1 is still available on Digikey, and the price is about 10 euros including tax. I would like to ask how many Vestas I should use in a 3x3 tent?

I'm sorry, I'm a new grower, and I may not be able to answer too professional questions. I hope to obtain some full-cycle-spectrum suitable lights. and I plan to supplement with 660nm and 405nm. I want to drive the strips gently to avoid the complex construction problems (and high costs) caused by heat dissipation. I bought some Osram CSSRM3.HW LED Chip on the local second-hand market. This LED seems to bring some light similar to the 301H Evo Mint White (I'm not quite sure). By the way, do you still recommend the Vesta™ Tunable Linear Gen 3, 80CRI strips? I saw that the price on Digikey is 14 euros per piece including tax.
Click to expand...
Check my posting history for pics of my vesta light, it was posted a day or two ago and im too on the go to look up the pics and have been bandying this light maybe a bit too much. It would be pretty much perfect for a 3x3 at about 300 watts but its somewhat over engineered and could be a bit pricey. have a look, theres a description of features and hit me up on dm if you wanna copy the design. I used 14 vestas at 700ma, and two supplementary strips with a wide red spread. Those red strips can be replaced by monos but then youre looking at a fair bit of soldering.
 
SwS

SwS

Member

Cob vs Strips

I've made my own strip light before with bridgelux. I'm curious though what's the deal with cobs, I used to be interested in them until I found out how easy strips were but seems like folks still build cobs. What's the pros and cons between the two, how do they compare for those that have had both?
www.rollitup.org

How many strips per driver you running on that light bro ?
 
Last edited:
M

Miragelabs

Member
Rocket Soul said:
Check my posting history for pics of my vesta light, it was posted a day or two ago and im too on the go to look up the pics and have been bandying this light maybe a bit too much. It would be pretty much perfect for a 3x3 at about 300 watts but its somewhat over engineered and could be a bit pricey. have a look, theres a description of features and hit me up on dm if you wanna copy the design. I used 14 vestas at 700ma, and two supplementary strips with a wide red spread. Those red strips can be replaced by monos but then youre looking at a fair bit of soldering.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing!:)
 
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