Rusting leafs?

[Rocket Soul]

I think you're spot on regarding temperature. I had a secondary heater that I turned off trying to get the temperature lower than 70. I also started leaving the door open during light hours so definitely the canopy temp has been a lot higher than pot temp. I moved the heater to blow under the platform (on the back of the platform there's an opening for air circulation).

It was growing fine at 80° but then I turned off the heater and open the door and that's when the pot probably got cold and the canopy stayed hot.

They are vegging. The one in the front left in the 5 gallon bucket is the problem child. I'll get a picture of the 4 girls in the back later in the 25 gallon pot and see if there are "stretching out their leaves properly".

" You can extract from the botto. Instead of the top." Do you mean I can get an exact?View attachment 5439043 temperature from the bottom instead of the top?

I'll study the rest of what you wrote. Thx

If you extra t the bottom youll extract more cold air than hot. Id raise the lights a bit aswell cause thats defo a factor in this. Keep temps up and light levels a bit lower til you see an improvement in plant posture, their supposed to stretch their leafs out when theyre happy. Start from there, and then adress whatever nutes issues you may have, looking at the new growth to see if things are working out. Yellowish leaves are unlikely to go back to dark green at this point but just get another layer of nice healthy leaves and you should be fine. With leds and vegging nr 1 issue is looking at health and not how fast ot grows. If its healthy you can maybe up the light levels but you need to always keep the leaves looking happy and erect, or you will have problems. Can you close that space for higher temps and rh? Then do so. best of luck grower
And remember the incandescent trick, ot seems to work real well though ive never had to use it

 

[stawawager]

If you extra t the bottom youll extract more cold air than hot. Id raise the lights a bit aswell cause thats defo a factor in this. Keep temps up and light levels a bit lower til you see an improvement in plant posture, their supposed to stretch their leafs out when theyre happy. Start from there, and then adress whatever nutes issues you may have, looking at the new growth to see if things are working out. Yellowish leaves are unlikely to go back to dark green at this point but just get another layer of nice healthy leaves and you should be fine. With leds and vegging nr 1 issue is looking at health and not how fast ot grows. If its healthy you can maybe up the light levels but you need to always keep the leaves looking happy and erect, or you will have problems. Can you close that space for higher temps and rh? Then do so. best of luck grower
And remember the incandescent trick, ot seems to work real well though ive never had to use it

I have it at 81 at 50% RH, door closed.

What's the incandescent trick, adding a little bit of heat?

Someday I'll be a grower pro.

 

[Rocket Soul]

I have it at 81 at 50% RH, door closed.

What's the incandescent trick, adding a little bit of heat?

Someday I'll be a grower pro.

Not just heat, radiant heat. What does the leaves look like with 81F 50rh? Stretch out?

 

[stawawager]

Not just heat, radiant heat. What does the leaves look like with 81F 50rh? Stretch out?

I'll know later, I'll give it a couple hours after the lights turn on.

...Definitely have perked up especially the healthy girls.

I can see definite improvement in the sickly one too - no color change in but definitely happier. Thx, who knew -10 degrees would throw them a curve.

The sickly one was closer to the open door

 

[stawawager]

Please help diagnose my problem foliage, thanks:

Symptoms: droopy leafs – spots – tops yellowing / yellower on top.

Well water with iron not running through whole house filter.

Lowering pH to 6.0 - 6.1 with 25 drops of hydrochloric acid / gallon.

Using 3 (correction: 7) year old nutes ¼ tsp / gallon.

Been adding ¼ tsp cal mag +iron last two waterings.

Water almost daily when moisture probe reads dry with 1 quart / girl.

6/18 light schedule.
View attachment 5438434View attachment 5438436View attachment 5438437View attachment 5438438View attachment 5438439

So I got the temperature back up and they are looking better but I'm back to where I was when I first posted as far as the rusting and yellowing goes.

The following pics are from 3 different strains.

They're dry and I'm trying to figure out if I should add nutes or not (1/4 tsp/gallon)?
I know they don't look glorious.

 

[stawawager]

I looked at k deficiency pictures, definitely have those characteristics.

I might be lowering my water ph too much.

It's weird because 3 years ago I was putting 6 drops (i think?) of hydrochloric per gallon.

Now 25 drops to get to 6.0. Maybe my acid got weaker? I'm confident in my ph testers.

Maybe I should double my nutes for more k and go for a ph of 6.5?

 

[HydoDan]

I looked at k deficiency pictures, definitely have those characteristics.

I might be lowering my water ph too much.

It's weird because 3 years ago I was putting 6 drops (i think?) of hydrochloric per gallon.

Now 25 drops to get to 6.0. Maybe my acid got weaker? I'm confident in my ph testers.

Maybe I should double my nutes for more k and go for a ph of 6.5?

Whats the ppm of your nute solution before you add ph down?

 

[stawawager]

Whats the ppm of your nute solution before you add ph down?

Incoming ppm 230. With nutes 326

 

[curious2garden]

I'll check later... thought I knew it. I would just delete this post and make a new one with the accurate info but it's impossible to delete as far as I know.

What do you want deleted?

 

[tstick]

I'd almost bet that it's a pH lockout issue. I see it all the time on this forum and elsewhere. For some reason, it is often HIGHLY discouraged from doing a pH check of runoff or doing a slurry test -no idea why. But, I always do an initial slurry test and then I do ongoing pH runoff checks throughout the growth -using the GH drops.
If you know that your soil is being fertilized and yet you are seeing symptoms of starvation, then you can deduce that you're getting nutrient lockout. It could be temperature, but unless it's extreme and ongoing, then I'd bet against it.

Shoot for a pH of 6.5 -the olive green color on the GH drops.

 

[stawawager]

I'd almost bet that it's a pH lockout issue. I see it all the time on this forum and elsewhere. For some reason, it is often HIGHLY discouraged from doing a pH check of runoff or doing a slurry test -no idea why. But, I always do an initial slurry test and then I do ongoing pH runoff checks throughout the growth -using the GH drops.
If you know that your soil is being fertilized and yet you are seeing symptoms of starvation, then you can deduce that you're getting nutrient lockout. It could be temperature, but unless it's extreme and ongoing, then I'd bet against it.

Shoot for a pH of 6.5 -the olive green color on the GH drops.

My 6.0 - 6.1 pH water could be causing lockout?

 

[tstick]

My 6.0 - 6.1 pH water could be causing lockout?

If the water going IN is the correct pH, then it SHOULD be the same for the runoff....HOWEVER, there are situations where something in the soil mix is turning the OUTgoing water (runoff) acidic. I experienced this -likely from some type of organic compound that was included with the mix I was using at the time. My incoming water was pH'd to 6.5 but the subsequent runoff was reading a pH of ~4.0! Ever since then, I always test!

 

[stawawager]

If the water going IN is the correct pH, then it SHOULD be the same for the runoff....HOWEVER, there are situations where something in the soil mix is turning the OUTgoing water (runoff) acidic. I experienced this -likely from some type of organic compound that was included with the mix I was using at the time. My incoming water was pH'd to 6.5 but the subsequent runoff was reading a pH of ~4.0! Ever since then, I always test!

6.5 pH going in and 6.5 runoff. Thx

 

[stawawager]

I'd almost bet that it's a pH lockout issue. I see it all the time on this forum and elsewhere. For some reason, it is often HIGHLY discouraged from doing a pH check of runoff or doing a slurry test -no idea why. But, I always do an initial slurry test and then I do ongoing pH runoff checks throughout the growth -using the GH drops.
If you know that your soil is being fertilized and yet you are seeing symptoms of starvation, then you can deduce that you're getting nutrient lockout. It could be temperature, but unless it's extreme and ongoing, then I'd bet against it.

Shoot for a pH of 6.5 -the olive green color on the GH drops.

I upped my incoming pH to 6.5. Runoff is 6.5.

My light hours running at 80°, night at 70°

 

[stawawager]

What do you want deleted?

I wanted to delete that because I didn't have the info yet. *I got the info and edited it.

How many hours after a post can it still be edited? Ty

 

[tstick]

It wasn't too long ago, a guy I knew was mixing up a batch of "super soil" and he decided it would be a good idea to add some organic, 4-4-4 tomato fertilizer. What he didn't realize was that it was also a soil acidifier (didn't read the small print!) because tomatoes like it. Long story short, he planted his plants in the mix and a few weeks later, everything was turning yellow, leaf necrosis, etc., etc. Did a slurry test and a runoff test....both were in the 4.0 range! "Well, there's yer problem!"

-by the way...that guy was me. heh heh

 

[stawawager]

It wasn't too long ago, a guy I knew was mixing up a batch of "super soil" and he decided it would be a good idea to add some organic, 4-4-4 tomato fertilizer. What he didn't realize was that it was also a soil acidifier (didn't read the small print!) because tomatoes like it. Long story short, he planted his plants in the mix and a few weeks later, everything was turning yellow, leaf necrosis, etc., etc. Did a slurry test and a runoff test....both were in the 4.0 range! "Well, there's yer problem!"

-by the way...that guy was me. heh heh

Did they recover?

You're not the first to get bamboozled by tomato potting soil. My good ideas have been few.

I think I was using way too much hydrochloric acid in my water.

 

[BongerChonger]

Incoming ppm 230. With nutes 326

You sure only 96 extra ppm with nutes? That's not a lot of nutes!
If that's the ppm you've been giving all along, no surprise you've got deficiency symptoms imho.

It's the droop that gets me though, you might be overwatering as well. If you're watering those buckets more often than every few days, I'd say you probably are. That big tub in the back maybe a little longer too I'd think.

 

[stawawager]

You sure only 96 extra ppm with nutes? That's not a lot of nutes!
If that's the ppm you've been giving all along, no surprise you've got deficiency symptoms imho.

It's the droop that gets me though, you might be overwatering as well. If you're watering those buckets more often than every few days, I'd say you probably are. That big tub in the back maybe a little longer too I'd think.

What should the nutes be? Currently using a 1/4 teaspoon / gallon and watering with a little more than a quart every 3 days or so except the front left one drys out slower.

I think my pH was much too low so we'll see what happens in a week or two. Thx

 

[tstick]

Did they recover?

You're not the first to get bamboozled by tomato potting soil. My good ideas have been few.

I think I was using way too much hydrochloric acid in my water.

Yes, they did! I was very relieved! I had to run a series of waterings with a solution that was extra-elevated (8.0-8.5) until the runoff started to come into compliance. After that, I maintained the proper pH.

And thanks!