First SCROG grow week 5 after flip any tips??

joedabesttt

Active Member
600w is definitely right for your space.

If your getting tip issues it's more likely nutrients.

What's your EC?
Or if you don't know that, what's amount are you giving compared to the recommended per the chart ?

Are you keeping your final ph 5.8-6.2?
I have lowered them a bit and changed to 600w definitely noticing a difference
 

420AD

Well-Known Member
I have lowered them a bit and changed to 600w definitely noticing a difference
More isn't always better, I'm at 640w right now and I have double your space (8x4).
My babes are hella fine, tried to turn it to 700 ish and they didn't like it.
You really have to see what your plants are taking, my man!
GL
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
More isn't always better, I'm at 640w right now and I have double your space (8x4).
My babes are hella fine, tried to turn it to 700 ish and they didn't like it.
You really have to see what your plants are taking, my man!
GL
Definitely noted if I where to go from the manufacturer recommendations they say to have the lights at a further distance I currently hand water them 2-3 times daily and so far I’ve noticed an increase in bud growth after I removed some foliage and switched to 600w I just can’t tell weather they have been light stressed at all it’s my first time using LED so have never been able to provide too much light before
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Trellis or SCROG, as long as it gets the job done! There's no real definition other than a SCROG typically has a fixed frame compared to traditional trellis net.

A trellis net mounted under tension in a frame is a SCROG net in my book. Mesh size is really down to preference and the environment.
 

420AD

Well-Known Member
Definitely noted if I where to go from the manufacturer recommendations they say to have the lights at a further distance I currently hand water them 2-3 times daily and so far I’ve noticed an increase in bud growth after I removed some foliage and switched to 600w I just can’t tell weather they have been light stressed at all it’s my first time using LED so have never been able to provide too much light before
If they are bleaching out, yellowing on top, signs of burn, or curling upwards most likely means your intensity is too high.
You might play around a bit with a lux meter or phone app. Check the performance of your lights at various distances.

Seedlings: ~100-300 ppfd
Veg: ~400-600 ppfd
Flower: ~700-1000 ppfd

With LEDs lights it's alot about temperature and realizing what your strain is able to take.
Some are ok with high temps + high ppfd some will not be able to take it and be miserable.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
I say lift the light and put it on max, lifting the light spreads out the hotspot so the light is more evenly distributed, it also gives the buds light from different angles as the photons will bounce off walls and reach further into the canopy as a result. If you're temps are good and you feel confident in maybe feeding abit stronger solution you'll be golden, these plants can take a shit load of light when we provide extra fertigation and the right environment. What is ur humidity right now?
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
I say lift the light and put it on max, lifting the light spreads out the hotspot so the light is more evenly distributed, it also gives the buds light from different angles as the photons will bounce off walls and reach further into the canopy as a result. If you're temps are good and you feel confident in maybe feeding abit stronger solution you'll be golden, these plants can take a shit load of light when we provide extra fertigation and the right environment. What is ur humidity right now?
Currently sitting around 35-50% humidity lights on maybe 50-60% lights off and I try to keep the canopy temperature below 25 Celsius
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
If they are bleaching out, yellowing on top, signs of burn, or curling upwards most likely means your intensity is too high.
You might play around a bit with a lux meter or phone app. Check the performance of your lights at various distances.

Seedlings: ~100-300 ppfd
Veg: ~400-600 ppfd
Flower: ~700-1000 ppfd

With LEDs lights it's alot about temperature and realizing what your strain is able to take.
Some are ok with high temps + high ppfd some will not be able to take it and be miserable.
Yes I think a lux meter would be best as it would take away a the guess work
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
I say lift the light and put it on max, lifting the light spreads out the hotspot so the light is more evenly distributed, it also gives the buds light from different angles as the photons will bounce off walls and reach further into the canopy as a result. If you're temps are good and you feel confident in maybe feeding abit stronger solution you'll be golden, these plants can take a shit load of light when we provide extra fertigation and the right environment. What is ur humidity right now?
I’m currently feeding at 1.2 EC and well below the recommended dose but I still have some tip burn from when it was up 1.4 EC unsure if the tip burn is due to the nutrients or the light distance
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Currently sitting around 35-50% humidity lights on maybe 50-60% lights off and I try to keep the canopy temperature below 25 Celsius
Is that a measurement of the canopy (as in leaf temperature) or the air at canopy height? If this is air temperature then this is too cold, 28c would be better and the plants would be drink more, more water = more nutes = more light = more yield
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
I’m currently feeding at 1.2 EC and well below the recommended dose but I still have some tip burn from when it was up 1.4 EC unsure if the tip burn is due to the nutrients or the light distance
light toxicity is caused by too much light for the metabolism, nute burn is caused by too much nutes for the metabolism, higher temperatures increase metabolism which means the plant can use more of both without burning, light toxicity shows itself as yellow tips and bleaching, salt toxicity shows itself as dry tips that turn necrotic due to the salt dehydrating the leaf starting at the edges
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
Is that a measurement of the canopy (as in leaf temperature) or the air at canopy height? If this is air temperature then this is too cold, 28c would be better and the plants would be drink more, more water = more nutes = more light = more yield
It’s the air at canopy height, do you suggest running at warmer temps?
 

joedabesttt

Active Member
light toxicity is caused by too much light for the metabolism, nute burn is caused by too much nutes for the metabolism, higher temperatures increase metabolism which means the plant can use more of both without burning, light toxicity shows itself as yellow tips and bleaching, salt toxicity shows itself as dry tips that turn necrotic due to the salt dehydrating the leaf starting at the edges
This is a pic of a few of the buds as of now any problems that you can see?
 

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Blue brother

Well-Known Member
This is a pic of a few of the buds as of now any problems that you can see?
Absolutely not, I think you're worrying abit too much, it's easy done. What ur doing is working, the look healthy and happy, maybe stay the course with the parameters you're providing now, but just know you can and should experiment pushing them harder in future, more nutes more light more temperature more airflow, just raise the humidity with the temperature so it's not hot and too dry as this will cause problems.
 

StareCase

Well-Known Member
... That got me wet ...
There is something about seeing a corner to corner crop like that. I stopped using SCROG nets about 1 year ago cause I used 1 x 1 wood trim for the frames and the frames warped way too much after just a couple of grows. So I am going to switch to 1" PVC to eliminate the warp and restart SCROG grows.

Just keep weaving ...
 
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