My first 3 chamber closet grow with Blueberry

[TRICKKY]

I've had a look and the closest thing I can find is this,

http://www.urbanhydroponics.co.uk/grotek_nutrients.htm
(its half way down the page) Grotek no wilt.

Or

http://www.hydroponic-shop.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_38&products_id=1086
(This will do the same thing)

 

[iloveit]

Dude! thanks a million Ive been searching for days, silly me.

 

[TRICKKY]

By the way the leaves perk up at a 90 degree level after watering but in a couple of day they droop back down, Ill post pics of every hour from when I water tomorrow with nutes.

This sounds quite normal to me. Just as plants droop when soil is too wet, they will droop when soil is becoming dry. As long as they perk up after watering then it's fine.

 

[TRICKKY]

I know Im going to have humidity problems in all chambers soon.

You could always keep a tray of water going as you have now? An RH of 40 is fine. I know a humidifier would be better tho. I hope you end up getting some luck getting yours replaced.

One plus side is your Blueberry is mainly indica. Indicas tend to originate from Dry parts of the world where humidity levels are very low.

 

[TRICKKY]

In other news I no longer have that cold & my coughs are all gone Yepeeee!

Haha, I missed this the first time round (My eyes were drawn to the pictures below!). It sounds like the news at 10

I'm pleased to hear your on the mend.

Can we go to the weather now please? I want to know if it is going to snow for Christmas

 

[Brenton]

Nice looking good. My plants did the same thing but they droop cause they want water i used the droopy as a way to not overwater. when they start drooping thats when id water again. and Blam would perk up in a few hrs.

 

[TRICKKY]

Have you seen these?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bionaire-BU1300-Compact-Ultrasonic-Humidifier/dp/B000A33SCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1229861781&sr=8-1

 

[iloveit]

Nice looking good. My plants did the same thing but they droop cause they want water i used the droopy as a way to not overwater. when they start drooping thats when id water again. and Blam would perk up in a few hrs.

Yeah Im getting used to the plants giving off signs.

 

[iloveit]

You could always keep a tray of water going as you have now? An RH of 40 is fine. I know a humidifier would be better tho. I hope you end up getting some luck getting yours replaced.

One plus side is your Blueberry is mainly indica. Indicas tend to originate from Dry parts of the world where humidity levels are very low.

At least I dont have to worry about that them phew!

 

[iloveit]

Have you seen these?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bionaire-BU1300-Compact-Ultrasonic-Humidifier/dp/B000A33SCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=kitchen&qid=1229861781&sr=8-1

Yeah considered this one too but there isnt enough space in the chambers which is why I purchased the pet humidifier it has a long hose which I can insert through the cabs intake holes. Ah well lets see how I get on with my current humidity levels.

 

[iloveit]

Just finished watering with the following:

Ionic Grow (7ml per litre)
Ionic GreenMyst Humic (5ml per litre) In one of my previous post (DAY 26) I mentioned Ill be adding Hygrozyme, what I meant to say was GreenMyst Humic. Im adding this because I originally purchased the ionic nute for hydro & the manufactures recommended that I use GreenMyst with the hydro nutes when applying it in soil.
PH at 6.5
MS at 2.6
PPM at 1800
I still need to research into the meaning of MS, CF & PPM if any of you have any guides please send it this way.

Well heres the 1st pic before watering the hourly pics Ill post at the same time which will probably be tomorrow.

 

[Brenton]

Well PPM is parts per million and are u using 1800 ppm in that plant in the picture?

 

[TRICKKY]

Ok,

EC=Electrical Conductivity of a liquid.

Pure water (distilled) has no EC but when you add impurities (Nutrients in this case) they conduct electricity, which ca n then be measured with a meter.

EC is measured in MS (millisiemens per Centimeter)
1 EC = 0.1MS

Cf=Conductivity Factor. Which is 10 times the value of the MS value.
ie, MS 0.1 = CF 1, MS 0.2 = CF 2 etc.

PPM = Parts Per million. Your meter takes a reading in EC/CF and then converts to a PPM reading which in your case is 1800.

Now this is the tricky bit
The scale used to convert the EC/CF to PPM depends on who makes your meter. I use Hanna meters and the scale for them is 1.0ms=500ppm or 10 CF

The problem is that with my meter a ppm value of 1000 is say 2.0 ms or 20 cf whereas with a different meter the ppm may be as much as 1400. There is a big difference there which is why it is better to measure in EC to calculate the overall strength of a nutrient solution.
If you let me know what meter you have I will show you an easy way to find the EC from ppm if the essay above is confusing

See I would say a ppm of 1800 is way too high as my meter would read an EC value of 3.6MS or 36CF.

Anyway I'm off for a little lie down now my brain hurts

 

[iloveit]

Well PPM is parts per million and are u using 1800 ppm in that plant in the picture?

Yes, I only have the one plant which will become my mother plant.

 

[iloveit]

Ok,

EC=Electrical Conductivity of a liquid.

Pure water (distilled) has no EC but when you add impurities (Nutrients in this case) they conduct electricity, which ca n then be measured with a meter.

EC is measured in MS (millisiemens per Centimeter)
1 EC = 0.1MS

Cf=Conductivity Factor. Which is 10 times the value of the MS value.
ie, MS 0.1 = CF 1, MS 0.2 = CF 2 etc.

PPM = Parts Per million. Your meter takes a reading in EC/CF and then converts to a PPM reading which in your case is 1800.

Now this is the tricky bit
The scale used to convert the EC/CF to PPM depends on who makes your meter. I use Hanna meters and the scale for them is 1.0ms=500ppm or 10 CF

The problem is that with my meter a ppm value of 1000 is say 2.0 ms or 20 cf whereas with a different meter the ppm may be as much as 1400. There is a big difference there which is why it is better to measure in EC to calculate the overall strength of a nutrient solution.
If you let me know what meter you have I will show you an easy way to find the EC from ppm if the essay above is confusing

See I would say a ppm of 1800 is way too high as my meter would read an EC value of 3.6MS or 36CF.

Anyway I'm off for a little lie down now my brain hurts

Perfect introduction.
Yes I understood your mini tutorial.
Although when my meter read "1800 PPM" I knew it was high compared to other peoples readings in their journals. Yet again I made another silly mistake of adding the full recommended dosage instead of the 1/4 or 1/2 dosage .
Ive read up a little on EC, CF, MS & PPM but exactly how does it affect the plant? Is it similar to how plants intake nutrients according to certain PH levels?
My PH & nutrient meters are: http://www.greenshorticulture.co.uk/details.asp?productid=1072&subcat=397&cat=90

Thanks for the lesson, night night teacher see you tomorrow Ill be in line before the bell rings

 

[TRICKKY]

Ive read up a little on EC, CF, MS & PPM but exactly how does it affect the plant? Is it similar to how plants intake nutrients according to certain PH levels?

Well they are just a way of accurately measuring the strength of nutrients in your water. If you only have a few plants, in soil, then it's much easier to measure out say, 5ml with a tbl spoon or syringe, add that to a litre of water, and your good to go. You just put the feed into the pot.

But when you start using a Hydroponic system, a meter is almost essential. Say you have a 25litre reservoir, well for starters you wouldn't want to add 25x 5ml spoonfulls of nutrients to it, it would take forever.

So you add a drop of Nutes, stir the res, then take a reading. You would continue to do this until you get to your desired strength (which would be measured in EC,PPM,CF etc.)

Now the real use for these meters is to maintain optimum nutrient strength over a period of time.(This is the important bit) If you start with a fresh reservior of nutes/water, at the correct strength of say 1800ppm. Within a day or two your plants would have used up many of these nutrients and you would the use your meter which would read only 1400ppm, so you could add some fresh nutes until your meter tells you the strength is 1800ppm again.

Or your plants may only want to use the water in your res one day, in which case the overall nutrient strength would rise, to say 2000ppm, so you could add some plain water to your res until your meter read 1800ppm again.

Without a meter it would be impossible to tell what is happening with the nutrients in your reservoir.

 

[TRICKKY]

MS at 2.6
PPM at 1800

I would save so much time if I just read and processed information properly!

The information above shows me that your pen measures in EC (MS at 2.6) as well as PPM 1800. I can use this ratio to tell you that the standard used by this pen to convert the EC to PPM is - EC (ms 0.1) = 70PPM.
So, You divide your PPM reading by 700 to get to the EC (Ms) value.
eg. PPM 1800 / 700 = EC (ms) 2.57. (rounds up to 2.6)

Or I could have made things really simple and just suggested you use the EC (MS) reading and ignore the PPM.

Oh well at least you have a greater understanding Of EC, PPM etc. I hope.

 

[TRICKKY]

Personally I would add 3.5ml per litre of water for your next feed. You don't need to use your meter, but if you want to you should get an approx. reading of 1.3 EC(ms) or 910 PPM.

Also I would try to get some Ionic soil nutrients, I haven't used the Ionic hydro nutes on soil plants, so I don't know for sure. But I think if your gonna keep her as a mother you would be better off getting the soil type. Oh and Greenmyst is designed for use with the soil formula.

If/when you do start using a hydro system, I will help you out with recommended nutrient strengths, If you need it.

 

[iloveit]

Well they are just a way of accurately measuring the strength of nutrients in your water. If you only have a few plants, in soil, then it's much easier to measure out say, 5ml with a tbl spoon or syringe, add that to a litre of water, and your good to go. You just put the feed into the pot.

But when you start using a Hydroponic system, a meter is almost essential. Say you have a 25litre reservoir, well for starters you wouldn't want to add 25x 5ml spoonfulls of nutrients to it, it would take forever.

So you add a drop of Nutes, stir the res, then take a reading. You would continue to do this until you get to your desired strength (which would be measured in EC,PPM,CF etc.)

Now the real use for these meters is to maintain optimum nutrient strength over a period of time.(This is the important bit) If you start with a fresh reservior of nutes/water, at the correct strength of say 1800ppm. Within a day or two your plants would have used up many of these nutrients and you would the use your meter which would read only 1400ppm, so you could add some fresh nutes until your meter tells you the strength is 1800ppm again.

Or your plants may only want to use the water in your res one day, in which case the overall nutrient strength would rise, to say 2000ppm, so you could add some plain water to your res until your meter read 1800ppm again.

Without a meter it would be impossible to tell what is happening with the nutrients in your reservoir.

Aaa ha I understand now.

 

[iloveit]

Well they are just a way of accurately measuring the strength of nutrients in your water. If you only have a few plants, in soil, then it's much easier to measure out say, 5ml with a tbl spoon or syringe, add that to a litre of water, and your good to go. You just put the feed into the pot.

But when you start using a Hydroponic system, a meter is almost essential. Say you have a 25litre reservoir, well for starters you wouldn't want to add 25x 5ml spoonfulls of nutrients to it, it would take forever.

So you add a drop of Nutes, stir the res, then take a reading. You would continue to do this until you get to your desired strength (which would be measured in EC,PPM,CF etc.)

Now the real use for these meters is to maintain optimum nutrient strength over a period of time.(This is the important bit) If you start with a fresh reservior of nutes/water, at the correct strength of say 1800ppm. Within a day or two your plants would have used up many of these nutrients and you would the use your meter which would read only 1400ppm, so you could add some fresh nutes until your meter tells you the strength is 1800ppm again.

Or your plants may only want to use the water in your res one day, in which case the overall nutrient strength would rise, to say 2000ppm, so you could add some plain water to your res until your meter read 1800ppm again.

Without a meter it would be impossible to tell what is happening with the nutrients in your reservoir.

That crossed that mind but I wasnt sure until you cleared it all up, I have a much better understanding now, cheers.