7th1der
Well-Known Member
That's what I was thinking! But I'm worried about the cfm rating of the filter. Does that shit even matter?
These Fans Are The Real Deal !!
- Thread starter southfloridasean
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That's what I was thinking! But I'm worried about the cfm rating of the filter. Does that shit even matter?
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Yes. Keep it within the range and you will be fine. If you go slightly out one way or the other it probably won't matter too much, but going more than 50 cfm above or below the recommended rating will mean problems.
7th1der
Well-Known Member
Good Looking dude! Would you happen to know what the Goblins are rated at?
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Not off the top of my head. Check the website, they should say.
I think it was somewhere around 100 cfm, but I don't really remember.
I think it was somewhere around 100 cfm, but I don't really remember.
7th1der
Well-Known Member
Okay! I'll look into it. I am running my temp tests for the exhaust on low speed with the 400w HPS now. So far, so good! I think I just may be another one of those satisfied customers!
specialkayme
Well-Known Member
I run mine on max speed, just in case.
It's only a difference of like 40-50 cfm, and when you factor in the carbon filter it really isn't that much more. But I like the added mental ease that comes with making sure that the cab won't overheat.
Keep us updated, and pics are always welcome
It's only a difference of like 40-50 cfm, and when you factor in the carbon filter it really isn't that much more. But I like the added mental ease that comes with making sure that the cab won't overheat.
Keep us updated, and pics are always welcome
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specialkayme
Well-Known Member
Go with the elf instead, sorry, I got the two mixed up:It says "Optimal CFM Range: 265-350cfm". Will the put too much stress on the motor of the fan if the fan is rated 197cfm on high?
http://www.mdhydro.com/hyfi.html
ELF
CFM : 150-265 cfm Weight: 5.5 lbs Flange: 4 inches Diameter: 6 inches
7th1der
Well-Known Member
I figured you meant to say Elf! lol Yerz look sweet by the way!
I just switched my fan high and the temps are at 91 degrees. Feels like summertime in that bitch! lol Just turned on the a/c. It's not equivalent to the windows being open at night but close enough at this point. How did you get the 4 inch ducting to stay on the 5 inch fan? or do you have he Goblin?
Here's my set up without carbon
I removed the CFL's to run the HPS test.
Thanks for all your help and speedy replies!
Hotwired
Well-Known Member
Answering this question:
Yes
Do I know exactly what you need?
Answering my question:
No. I'm not there...I can't see everything.
First, what is the temp outside your grow box?
Second, what is the total cubic feet for the grow box?
You may be pulling air from outside the box and thru the fan without giving it time to cool the box. In your case you may have to do something different. Maybe push the cool air into the box and have it passively go out. This may carry more heat out with it and bring the temp down.
At least you will be forcing cool air to fill the box up and make its own way out. Or you could put a small fan on the exhaust to help the air move out better.
Try different shit man.
JordanTheGreat
Well-Known Member
in some cases it is necessary to have both an INTAKE and EXHAUST fan...i couldn't get my tent below eighty degrees with passive intake. now i duct in air from the window with an axial fan, stays below seventy five everyday
uptosumpn
Well-Known Member
hey hotwired this question for you, since you seem to be the man with all the right answers...1. here's my future set-up;" a homebox XL, (4.5'x4.5'x6.5'), radiant 6 a/c reflector, lumintek 600 120v ballast, 600hps hortilux, growing in soil,(oceans forest) via 3gal growbags, 2 6" air circulating fans, insulated ducting, a 6" in-line booster fan with 2 backdraft dampers for duct run from light, (maybe 10' to 20' duct run into attic above garage) some fat mat and some thermal-shield lined inside my grow cabinet, garage door, and possibly inside the attic to block FLIR ..http://www.hydrowholesale.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=hydro&Category_Code=TS
Whew!...Now my over all goal is "ultimate stealth"!!! ie; "smell, sound & heat sig" I have been doing research for about a month now on the quietest fans avail. and I think I found them....
So here is my question....considering my set-up and what I require, would it be a good idea to use the TD-150 for cooling my light and another TD-150 with a Can 33 filter to effectivly clean the air inside the cabinet? and finally, which way is more effective, ducting air from td-150/can-33 to outside the tent or recirculating/scrubbing the air from the td-150/can-33 in side the tent?? << [i like this way best cause it's less ducting to run]
Sorry that this was all drawn out, but after reading this entire thread, I had to make sure that I "completly understand" everything discussed, espcially the static pressure vs. CFM..you def. taught me a lot! ++rep for you, period!
Oh, forgot to mention, as far as air intake goes...I live in humid S. Fla. so I was considering a portable A/C 7000btu for my air intake instead of passive or those $20-$40 inline blower fans..whatta ya think? check it out....http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/prod/30128181/i/1/productInfo.web#navPanel
Whew!...Now my over all goal is "ultimate stealth"!!! ie; "smell, sound & heat sig" I have been doing research for about a month now on the quietest fans avail. and I think I found them....
So here is my question....considering my set-up and what I require, would it be a good idea to use the TD-150 for cooling my light and another TD-150 with a Can 33 filter to effectivly clean the air inside the cabinet? and finally, which way is more effective, ducting air from td-150/can-33 to outside the tent or recirculating/scrubbing the air from the td-150/can-33 in side the tent?? << [i like this way best cause it's less ducting to run]
Sorry that this was all drawn out, but after reading this entire thread, I had to make sure that I "completly understand" everything discussed, espcially the static pressure vs. CFM..you def. taught me a lot! ++rep for you, period!
Oh, forgot to mention, as far as air intake goes...I live in humid S. Fla. so I was considering a portable A/C 7000btu for my air intake instead of passive or those $20-$40 inline blower fans..whatta ya think? check it out....http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/prod/30128181/i/1/productInfo.web#navPanel
JordanTheGreat
Well-Known Member
i know the question wasnt for me but you could use a td150 for the light and scrubber on the same line...pulls really good for a tent
Hotwired
Well-Known Member
Hey man thx for the kind words. I will try to help you out here but you have almost everything covered.
I believe you already know how hot it will get in a garage that does not have central A/C in it in s florida. So you already know that an A/C will be needed because you can't cool a light or a tent with intake air that is already 90 - 100 degrees.
Firstly, you may have went overboard on the heat detection stuff but "better safe than sorry!". As long as it makes you feel good is all that matters.
Second, I like how you thought about using separate fans. The 600 is perfect for that tent because it will cover the whole thing with no side lighting needed. I would have went with a 600 MH conversion for veg tho.
You also stated you would rather save on an extra duct run with the filter...........ok.....this may work out.
I don't like the (booster and circulating) 6" fans but they might work. You will see when you use them. They just don't seem to have the power you really want.
I'm not sure where you stand on CO2 but in your case you can use it. I'm wondering where your air will be coming from to cool your light. Will it be too hot to make a difference? I don't know.
You CAN use the second 150 to scrub if you are creating a "sealed" environment. This way it will stay on 24/7 and clean the air in the tent with no need to vent it out.
You can place your A/C in the tent also. Make sure you get an A/C that uses an air cooled coil (water cooled coils use a ton of water and power) This way the tent remains "sealed" because you will have an input to cool the coil and an output that releases the hot air. All the while the A/C cools the air in the tent. Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever.
So you have almost everything you need.
A 150 to cool the light. I'm most worried about this cause your garage, unlike inside the home, is hot as hell. It will still pull the heat out but how much? That will be one of your points of interest.
A 150 to scrub a Can 33. Excellent. Leave on 24/7 @ low speed inside the tent ONLY if you are going to use co2. Otherwise you will need to refresh the air every 15 minutes or so. Some people say less, some more, but I like 15 minutes off then 5 minutes on if you are NOT using co2.
The reason for this is the A/C. Why waste it by continually refreshing the air? If you do decide to use a timer that will let you turn off your scrubbing fan for 15 minutes, then on for 5, then leave out the co2....you really dont need it. You figure the A/C gets to cool off the tent for 15 minutes before the scrubber turns on and gets new fresh air in for 5 minutes. This way the scrubber will turn on 3 times every hour AND you can get away with venting this air right out into the garage. No additional duct.
There are many ways to work things out. It all depends on trial and error. It seems like you have read up on your important material. You will figure it out
Keep me updated and I'll try to help out along the way.
I believe you already know how hot it will get in a garage that does not have central A/C in it in s florida. So you already know that an A/C will be needed because you can't cool a light or a tent with intake air that is already 90 - 100 degrees.
Firstly, you may have went overboard on the heat detection stuff but "better safe than sorry!". As long as it makes you feel good is all that matters.
Second, I like how you thought about using separate fans. The 600 is perfect for that tent because it will cover the whole thing with no side lighting needed. I would have went with a 600 MH conversion for veg tho.
You also stated you would rather save on an extra duct run with the filter...........ok.....this may work out.
I don't like the (booster and circulating) 6" fans but they might work. You will see when you use them. They just don't seem to have the power you really want.
I'm not sure where you stand on CO2 but in your case you can use it. I'm wondering where your air will be coming from to cool your light. Will it be too hot to make a difference? I don't know.
You CAN use the second 150 to scrub if you are creating a "sealed" environment. This way it will stay on 24/7 and clean the air in the tent with no need to vent it out.
You can place your A/C in the tent also. Make sure you get an A/C that uses an air cooled coil (water cooled coils use a ton of water and power) This way the tent remains "sealed" because you will have an input to cool the coil and an output that releases the hot air. All the while the A/C cools the air in the tent. Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever.
So you have almost everything you need.
A 150 to cool the light. I'm most worried about this cause your garage, unlike inside the home, is hot as hell. It will still pull the heat out but how much? That will be one of your points of interest.
A 150 to scrub a Can 33. Excellent. Leave on 24/7 @ low speed inside the tent ONLY if you are going to use co2. Otherwise you will need to refresh the air every 15 minutes or so. Some people say less, some more, but I like 15 minutes off then 5 minutes on if you are NOT using co2.
The reason for this is the A/C. Why waste it by continually refreshing the air? If you do decide to use a timer that will let you turn off your scrubbing fan for 15 minutes, then on for 5, then leave out the co2....you really dont need it. You figure the A/C gets to cool off the tent for 15 minutes before the scrubber turns on and gets new fresh air in for 5 minutes. This way the scrubber will turn on 3 times every hour AND you can get away with venting this air right out into the garage. No additional duct.
There are many ways to work things out. It all depends on trial and error. It seems like you have read up on your important material. You will figure it out
Keep me updated and I'll try to help out along the way.
uptosumpn
Well-Known Member
thanks for the quick and very informative reply...ok, here goes my reply....first, on the heat detection stuff..LOL..
I mean yeah, better safe than sorry right? So, you think it's over kill? Man i dont know, because everyday those helicoptors are flying and i am most certain 95% of the time they have the FLIR on...so here is another ques...would the FLIR pick up on a the heat of a 600hps and the heat that assoc with it? Second, I was going to get a 600MH but I forgot to mention that i will be growing Autos/Lowryders...24 of them.(dont need veg. light, but i am gonna use some 24w cfl's during propagation/veg for 2wks. The hotilux 600hps as you know has 25-30% blus spectrum in it) Third, the 6" circulating fans are for blowing air over the tops..(Oscallating fan, the little white ones..maybe i wasn't clear..my bad) as far as those in-line blowers go, that was to go in my duct run, (because i know it is gonna be a long one..maybe 15'-20') do you think the TD-150 is powerful enough to handle a duct run that long by itself effectivly? I want the air that comes out of this long ass run the coolest it can be...whatta you think? Forth, I am gonna use Co2, just not on this grow..will get that eqiup. after this harvest so I can compare..., As far as where the air is gonna come from for the lights i was thinking about putting my portable A/C "outside/beside" the tent and with a 6x6x6 Y connector and duct one outlet in bottom of tent for air intake, (with cooling thermostat) and point the other outlet towards the intake side of tent where td-150 will be sucking in air..thus giving me cooler air for the lights...[now when the thremostat turns the A/C unit off when desired temp is reached inside tent, of course no more "cool air" will blow towards td-150 air intake side of tent, BUT, I figured that wont be long considering the shit might not ever be off for no more than 1-5min...] what do u think/ will it work? Fifth, So it's best to leave it on the low setting 24/7 if "scurbbing"? Sixth, when u say; " Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever"... Are you talking about the one in the link I sent in my earlier post?? If, so then any reccomendations? Because the main reason I picked that one was I have NOWHERE to vent outside like those other kinds of portable a/c units require....HELP! 
and thanks again......
I mean yeah, better safe than sorry right? So, you think it's over kill? Man i dont know, because everyday those helicoptors are flying and i am most certain 95% of the time they have the FLIR on...so here is another ques...would the FLIR pick up on a the heat of a 600hps and the heat that assoc with it? Second, I was going to get a 600MH but I forgot to mention that i will be growing Autos/Lowryders...24 of them.(dont need veg. light, but i am gonna use some 24w cfl's during propagation/veg for 2wks. The hotilux 600hps as you know has 25-30% blus spectrum in it) Third, the 6" circulating fans are for blowing air over the tops..(Oscallating fan, the little white ones..maybe i wasn't clear..my bad) as far as those in-line blowers go, that was to go in my duct run, (because i know it is gonna be a long one..maybe 15'-20') do you think the TD-150 is powerful enough to handle a duct run that long by itself effectivly? I want the air that comes out of this long ass run the coolest it can be...whatta you think? Forth, I am gonna use Co2, just not on this grow..will get that eqiup. after this harvest so I can compare..., As far as where the air is gonna come from for the lights i was thinking about putting my portable A/C "outside/beside" the tent and with a 6x6x6 Y connector and duct one outlet in bottom of tent for air intake, (with cooling thermostat) and point the other outlet towards the intake side of tent where td-150 will be sucking in air..thus giving me cooler air for the lights...[now when the thremostat turns the A/C unit off when desired temp is reached inside tent, of course no more "cool air" will blow towards td-150 air intake side of tent, BUT, I figured that wont be long considering the shit might not ever be off for no more than 1-5min...] what do u think/ will it work? Fifth, So it's best to leave it on the low setting 24/7 if "scurbbing"? Sixth, when u say; " Don't use that blower...will just make your garage hotter than ever"... Are you talking about the one in the link I sent in my earlier post?? If, so then any reccomendations? Because the main reason I picked that one was I have NOWHERE to vent outside like those other kinds of portable a/c units require....HELP! and thanks again......
7th1der
Well-Known Member
My box is like 14inches X 42.5 inches X 34 inches. You do the math! lol I do need to add another passive intake but I am trynna decide whether it should be another 4 inch or if I should make it smaller. Temps outside the box never reach above 78 degrees.
7th1der
Well-Known Member
I was thinking that! I called myself putting another fan at the top (120mm PC fan) to exhaust the heat and when I closed the door there was no air blowing out of the PC fan. Lol Guess its because all the damn air is being sucked out of the S&P. I am going to try and use the 120 fan for the intake before I drill another passive intake hole. Won't be trying it til the morning though. I will definitely give updates first thing. Thanks for your help!
Hotwired
Well-Known Member
NP bro
Always stand back, away from what you are working on, and ask yourself what you can do to make it work better.
Take your worst problem and work on that first. Yours is heat.
Things aren't working right with how you put it together. So let's take a look at the math.
14" x 42.5" x 34" = around 12 cubic feet of air.
Do the math again. If your S&P is pulling 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) then you are pulling the air right out way too fast. Damn plants are gonna die.........lol......no......maybe....hehe
So in 1 minute you're clearing out that box more than 8 times. Damn things can't get air!! rofl
Even with 50 cfm you clear the air in that box more than 4 times per minute.
So stand back and think about how you can do it. Go smoke a bowl and come back to the front of your box. Look at the box. See the box in all it's unnatural glory. Be the air filling that box............making it cool.
Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround
fuck I'm dizzy
Always stand back, away from what you are working on, and ask yourself what you can do to make it work better.
Take your worst problem and work on that first. Yours is heat.
Things aren't working right with how you put it together. So let's take a look at the math.
14" x 42.5" x 34" = around 12 cubic feet of air.
Do the math again. If your S&P is pulling 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) then you are pulling the air right out way too fast. Damn plants are gonna die.........lol......no......maybe....hehe
So in 1 minute you're clearing out that box more than 8 times. Damn things can't get air!! rofl
Even with 50 cfm you clear the air in that box more than 4 times per minute.
So stand back and think about how you can do it. Go smoke a bowl and come back to the front of your box. Look at the box. See the box in all it's unnatural glory. Be the air filling that box............making it cool.
Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround
fuck I'm dizzy