Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Not as much as precise I think as it is patience. Plants can be very forgiving.
20 plants dieing leaves curling down HELP ASAP
- Thread starter akinaspeedstars1
- Start date
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
well that's true but precise in never making a error is what im getting at
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
And dude you won't believe it. My buddy at work that is trying to start a grow (with my help) was offered $5000 worth of grow stuff for free. I'll be seeing what I can get out of it. When we were leaving work he said he would get it and let me know what he got so we can figure out how to use it. Told him don't worry about that. I know how to use it. He had a seedling that was not doing good and wanted to bring it over so I could see it. When he went to get it his girlfriend asked where he was going. He told her he was taking his baby to the doctor.
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
I see what you mean. Hey, I like your new avatar.
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
:rofl: lololool
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
What does :rofl: mean?
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
its a command line for a roll on the floor laughing smiley face, this VBoard doesnt have it though lol
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
I get it now. I thought it had to do with the letters but could not figure out what it was. Maybe I havn't smoked enough yet. I'll see if it helps.
NewGrow60sToker
Well-Known Member
There are lots of ready made nutrients on the market some aimed at cannabis some not. In the end there's not much difference between any of them. As long as the nutrients are complete and given in the correct dosage results should be good.
Cannabis is a nitrogen lover and whilst in its growing stage it will need a feed with extra nitrogen. When flowering starts it will require extra phosphorus and potassium instead. This is why a lot of cannabis nutrients come in two or even three part formulas.
If a plant looks under fed check the p.h. of the medium and water before adding more nutrients. If your growing in soil make sure your not over watering and suffocating the plants roots. Soil should be allowed to dry a little between watering.
To easily control the rate and amount of food a plant receives use bland nutrient free mediums, with or without standard potting compost mixed in. Then add a soluble complete feed to the plants water in the recommended amounts.
Nutrients have an N.P.K. ratio on the packet. This shows the amount of Nitrogen(N), Phosphorus(P) and Potassium(K) the nutrient contains as a percentage. A complete fertiliser will also contain all the other nutrients and minerals a plant needs for good growth.
Mixing organic nutrients takes time and knowledge. Getting a good safe balanced mix for plants grown in the ground can take months. Start planning now if you want to grow organic and remember that you may still need to feed with a nutrient solution as well.
Whatever nutrient you use you should always stop feeding at least 10 days before harvest. Only give the plant p.h. balanced water from then on. Doing this will help "flush" the nutrients out the plant and produce better tasting and better burning buds.
PLANT FOOD AND NUTRIENTS
Plant foods have 3 main ingredients that will be the mainstay of the garden, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. These 3 ingredients are usually listed on the front label of the plant food in the order of N-P-K. A 20-20-20 plant food has a Nitrogen level of 20%.
Secondary nutrients are Calcium, Sulphur and Magnesium. In trace quantities, boron, copper, molybenum, zink, iron, and manganese.
Depending on stage of growth, different nutrients are needed at different times. For rooting and germination, levels of high P nutrients with less N/K are needed. Vegetative growth needs lots of N, and human urine is one of the better sources, (mix 8 ounces to 1 gallon water), although it is not a complete fertilizer unto itself. 20-20-20 with trace elements should do it; I like Miracle Grow Patio food. Watch for calcium, magnesium, sulfur and iron levels too. These are important. One tablespoon of dolomite or hydrated lime is used per gallon of growing medium when a hydroponic medium is first brought on-line, to provide nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. Epsom salts are used to enhance magnesium and sulphur levels in solution.
Tobacco grown with potassium nitrate burns better. Plant foods with PN (P2N3) are foods such as Miracle Grow. This is an excellent fertilizer for vegetative growth, or through the flowering cycle as well. Consider however, potassium nitrate is also known as Salt Peter, and is used to make men have less sexual desire or impotent, such as in mental institutions. So if certain plants are destined for cooking, you might use Fish Emulsion or some other totally organic fertilizer on these plants, at least in the last weeks of flowering.
Most hydroponic solutions should be in the range of 150-600 parts per million in disolved solids. 300-400 ppm is optimum. It is possible to test your solution or soil with a electrical conductivity meter if your unsure of what your giving your plants.
Keep in mind most disolved solids readings are usually on the low side, and actual nutrient levels are usually higher. It is possible with passive hydroponics, to get nutrient build-up over several feedings, to the point the medium is over saturated in nutrients. Just feed straight water now and again, until you notice the plants are not as green (slightly), then resume normal feeding.
"Pumping" is when you use more waterings to make the plants grow faster. This is dangerous if you proceed in a reckless manner, due to potential over-watering problems. You must go slowly and watch the plants daily and even hourly at first to be sure your not over-watering the plants. Use weaker plant food mixtures than normal, maybe 25%, and be sure your leaching once a month and running straight water through the plants at least every other time you water. This applies mainly to plants grown in soil mediums.
Use of light strength Oxygen Plus plant food (or Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide) allows the roots to breath better and prevents problems with over-watering. Check soil to be sure there are no PH anomalies that might be due to Hydrogen Peroxide in the solution. (One experienced grower told me he would not use H2O2 (HP) due to possible PH problems. This should not be a problem if your checking PH and correcting for it in watering solutions.)
Be sure your medium has good drainage. At this point, if your watering soil based plants once a week, you can water every 3-5 days instead if you plant them in a medium with better drainage. Pearlite or lava rock will greatly increase the drainage of the medium and make watering necessary more often. This will pump the plants; they will tend to grow faster because of the enhanced oxygen to the roots. Make sure the plant medium is almost dry before watering again, as the plant grows faster this way.
An alternative is to use a standard plant food mixture (stronger) once every 3 waterings. The nutrients are suspended in the medium and stored in the soil for later use. The nutrients are washed out by 2 straight waterings afterward and there is no salts build up in the soil. (Does not apply to hydroponics.)
Stop all plant food 2 weeks before harvesting, so that the plants don't taste like plant food. (This applies to hydroponics as well.)
WARNING: Do not over-fertilize. It will kill your plants. Always read the instructions for the fertilizer being used. Use 1/2 strength if adding to the water for all feedings in soil or hydroponics if you are unsure of what your plants can take. Build up slowly to higher concentrations of food over time. Novice soil growers tend to over-fertilize their plants. Mineral salts build up over time to higher levels of disolved solids. Use straight water for one feeding in hydroponics if it is believed the buildup is getting too great. Leach plants in pots every month. If your plants look REALLY green, withhold food for a while to be sure they are not being over-fed.
PH AND FERTILIZERS
PH can make or break your nutrient solution. 6.7-6.2 is best to ensure there is no nutrient lock-up occurring. Hydroponics requires the solution to be PH corrected for the medium before exposing to the plants. Phosphoresic acid can make the PH go down; lime or potash can take it up when it gets too acid. Buy a PH meter for $10 and use it in soil, water, and hydroponic medium to make sure your not going alkaline or acid over time. Most neutral mediums can use a little vinegar to make them just this side of 7 ph to 6.5 or so.
Most fertilizers cause a ph change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic ph.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
FOLAIR FEEDING
Folair feeding seems to be one of the easiest ways of increasing yield, growth speed, and quality in a well vented space, with or without elevated CO2 levels. Just prepare a tea of worm castings, fish emulsion, bat guano, or most any other plant food right for the job and feed in vegetative and early flowering stages. It is not recommended for late flowering, or you will be eating the sprayed-on material later. Stop foliar feeding 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Wash off the leaves with straight water every week to prevent clogging the stomata of the leaves. Feed daily or every other day.
Best times of day to Foliar feed are 7-10Am and after 5 in the evening. This is because the stomata on the underside of the leaves are open then. Also, the best temperature is about 72 degrees, and over 80, they may not be open at all. So find the cooler part of the day if it's hot, and the warmer part of the day if it's cold out. You may need to spray at 2AM if that's the coolest time available. The sprayer used should atomize the solution to a very fine mist; find your best sprayer and use it for this. Make sure the PH is between 7 and 6.2. Use baking soda to make the solution higher PH, and vinegar to make the solution lower PH. It's better to spray more often and use less, than to drench the plants infrequently. Use a wetting agent to prevent the water from beading up, and thereby burning the leaves as they act as small prisms.Make sure you don't spray a hot bulb; better yet, spray only when the bulb has cooled.
Perhaps the best foliar feeding includes using seltzer water and plant food at the same time. This way, CO2 and nutrients are feed directly to the leaves in the same spray.
Foliar feeding is recognized in most of the literature as being a good way to get nutrients to the plant later when nutrient lockup problems could start to reduce intake from the roots.
WARNING!: It is important to wash leaves that are harvested before they are dried, if you intend to eat them, since they may have nitrate salts on them.
NOTE: One grower who reviewed this document comments: "Fish emulsion smells. Bat guano could be highly unsanitary. Stick to the Rapid-Gro, MgSO4 (epsom salts), hydroponic trace element solution. Nitrate salts (The "N" in NPK) are unhealthy to smoke. Personally, I never foliar feed."
Above is a great comment, and there is great wisdom in an organic, non-toxic garden. Personally, I use only CO2 on my indoor hydroponic plants, and never folar feed. It simply does not seem to be necessary when using hydroponics.
Nice thread akina.............i just read the entire thread.
Cannabis is a nitrogen lover and whilst in its growing stage it will need a feed with extra nitrogen. When flowering starts it will require extra phosphorus and potassium instead. This is why a lot of cannabis nutrients come in two or even three part formulas.
If a plant looks under fed check the p.h. of the medium and water before adding more nutrients. If your growing in soil make sure your not over watering and suffocating the plants roots. Soil should be allowed to dry a little between watering.
To easily control the rate and amount of food a plant receives use bland nutrient free mediums, with or without standard potting compost mixed in. Then add a soluble complete feed to the plants water in the recommended amounts.
Nutrients have an N.P.K. ratio on the packet. This shows the amount of Nitrogen(N), Phosphorus(P) and Potassium(K) the nutrient contains as a percentage. A complete fertiliser will also contain all the other nutrients and minerals a plant needs for good growth.
Mixing organic nutrients takes time and knowledge. Getting a good safe balanced mix for plants grown in the ground can take months. Start planning now if you want to grow organic and remember that you may still need to feed with a nutrient solution as well.
Whatever nutrient you use you should always stop feeding at least 10 days before harvest. Only give the plant p.h. balanced water from then on. Doing this will help "flush" the nutrients out the plant and produce better tasting and better burning buds.
PLANT FOOD AND NUTRIENTS
Plant foods have 3 main ingredients that will be the mainstay of the garden, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. These 3 ingredients are usually listed on the front label of the plant food in the order of N-P-K. A 20-20-20 plant food has a Nitrogen level of 20%.
Secondary nutrients are Calcium, Sulphur and Magnesium. In trace quantities, boron, copper, molybenum, zink, iron, and manganese.
Depending on stage of growth, different nutrients are needed at different times. For rooting and germination, levels of high P nutrients with less N/K are needed. Vegetative growth needs lots of N, and human urine is one of the better sources, (mix 8 ounces to 1 gallon water), although it is not a complete fertilizer unto itself. 20-20-20 with trace elements should do it; I like Miracle Grow Patio food. Watch for calcium, magnesium, sulfur and iron levels too. These are important. One tablespoon of dolomite or hydrated lime is used per gallon of growing medium when a hydroponic medium is first brought on-line, to provide nitrogen, calcium and magnesium. Epsom salts are used to enhance magnesium and sulphur levels in solution.
Tobacco grown with potassium nitrate burns better. Plant foods with PN (P2N3) are foods such as Miracle Grow. This is an excellent fertilizer for vegetative growth, or through the flowering cycle as well. Consider however, potassium nitrate is also known as Salt Peter, and is used to make men have less sexual desire or impotent, such as in mental institutions. So if certain plants are destined for cooking, you might use Fish Emulsion or some other totally organic fertilizer on these plants, at least in the last weeks of flowering.
Most hydroponic solutions should be in the range of 150-600 parts per million in disolved solids. 300-400 ppm is optimum. It is possible to test your solution or soil with a electrical conductivity meter if your unsure of what your giving your plants.
Keep in mind most disolved solids readings are usually on the low side, and actual nutrient levels are usually higher. It is possible with passive hydroponics, to get nutrient build-up over several feedings, to the point the medium is over saturated in nutrients. Just feed straight water now and again, until you notice the plants are not as green (slightly), then resume normal feeding.
"Pumping" is when you use more waterings to make the plants grow faster. This is dangerous if you proceed in a reckless manner, due to potential over-watering problems. You must go slowly and watch the plants daily and even hourly at first to be sure your not over-watering the plants. Use weaker plant food mixtures than normal, maybe 25%, and be sure your leaching once a month and running straight water through the plants at least every other time you water. This applies mainly to plants grown in soil mediums.
Use of light strength Oxygen Plus plant food (or Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide) allows the roots to breath better and prevents problems with over-watering. Check soil to be sure there are no PH anomalies that might be due to Hydrogen Peroxide in the solution. (One experienced grower told me he would not use H2O2 (HP) due to possible PH problems. This should not be a problem if your checking PH and correcting for it in watering solutions.)
Be sure your medium has good drainage. At this point, if your watering soil based plants once a week, you can water every 3-5 days instead if you plant them in a medium with better drainage. Pearlite or lava rock will greatly increase the drainage of the medium and make watering necessary more often. This will pump the plants; they will tend to grow faster because of the enhanced oxygen to the roots. Make sure the plant medium is almost dry before watering again, as the plant grows faster this way.
An alternative is to use a standard plant food mixture (stronger) once every 3 waterings. The nutrients are suspended in the medium and stored in the soil for later use. The nutrients are washed out by 2 straight waterings afterward and there is no salts build up in the soil. (Does not apply to hydroponics.)
Stop all plant food 2 weeks before harvesting, so that the plants don't taste like plant food. (This applies to hydroponics as well.)
WARNING: Do not over-fertilize. It will kill your plants. Always read the instructions for the fertilizer being used. Use 1/2 strength if adding to the water for all feedings in soil or hydroponics if you are unsure of what your plants can take. Build up slowly to higher concentrations of food over time. Novice soil growers tend to over-fertilize their plants. Mineral salts build up over time to higher levels of disolved solids. Use straight water for one feeding in hydroponics if it is believed the buildup is getting too great. Leach plants in pots every month. If your plants look REALLY green, withhold food for a while to be sure they are not being over-fed.
PH AND FERTILIZERS
PH can make or break your nutrient solution. 6.7-6.2 is best to ensure there is no nutrient lock-up occurring. Hydroponics requires the solution to be PH corrected for the medium before exposing to the plants. Phosphoresic acid can make the PH go down; lime or potash can take it up when it gets too acid. Buy a PH meter for $10 and use it in soil, water, and hydroponic medium to make sure your not going alkaline or acid over time. Most neutral mediums can use a little vinegar to make them just this side of 7 ph to 6.5 or so.
Most fertilizers cause a ph change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic ph.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the fertilizer in worm water and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
FOLAIR FEEDING
Folair feeding seems to be one of the easiest ways of increasing yield, growth speed, and quality in a well vented space, with or without elevated CO2 levels. Just prepare a tea of worm castings, fish emulsion, bat guano, or most any other plant food right for the job and feed in vegetative and early flowering stages. It is not recommended for late flowering, or you will be eating the sprayed-on material later. Stop foliar feeding 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Wash off the leaves with straight water every week to prevent clogging the stomata of the leaves. Feed daily or every other day.
Best times of day to Foliar feed are 7-10Am and after 5 in the evening. This is because the stomata on the underside of the leaves are open then. Also, the best temperature is about 72 degrees, and over 80, they may not be open at all. So find the cooler part of the day if it's hot, and the warmer part of the day if it's cold out. You may need to spray at 2AM if that's the coolest time available. The sprayer used should atomize the solution to a very fine mist; find your best sprayer and use it for this. Make sure the PH is between 7 and 6.2. Use baking soda to make the solution higher PH, and vinegar to make the solution lower PH. It's better to spray more often and use less, than to drench the plants infrequently. Use a wetting agent to prevent the water from beading up, and thereby burning the leaves as they act as small prisms.Make sure you don't spray a hot bulb; better yet, spray only when the bulb has cooled.
Perhaps the best foliar feeding includes using seltzer water and plant food at the same time. This way, CO2 and nutrients are feed directly to the leaves in the same spray.
Foliar feeding is recognized in most of the literature as being a good way to get nutrients to the plant later when nutrient lockup problems could start to reduce intake from the roots.
WARNING!: It is important to wash leaves that are harvested before they are dried, if you intend to eat them, since they may have nitrate salts on them.
NOTE: One grower who reviewed this document comments: "Fish emulsion smells. Bat guano could be highly unsanitary. Stick to the Rapid-Gro, MgSO4 (epsom salts), hydroponic trace element solution. Nitrate salts (The "N" in NPK) are unhealthy to smoke. Personally, I never foliar feed."
Above is a great comment, and there is great wisdom in an organic, non-toxic garden. Personally, I use only CO2 on my indoor hydroponic plants, and never folar feed. It simply does not seem to be necessary when using hydroponics.
Nice thread akina.............i just read the entire thread.
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Ok, time is up and I need to make changes in my closet. My hydro are outgrowing their space fast and I need to get them under the hps. I wish the ones I have under them now would hurry up and finish. I did see some purple starting on one of them though. They are two different plants. My friend made a joke "why don't you just mylar the walls". That is what i'm going to do. My 4 flowering will be good under the hps but right now they all sure will not fit in the box. So out the box goes. The closet is 5'-6'X 4'-6" AND 7'-6" Tall. Not a bad size grow box. I'll be needing more lights to for sure. I'll try to take pics to post when it is done. And if I can keep from smoking to much I'll have it done by tomorrow no problem. My mom's b-day today so I don't have all day today to work on it. A friend I can trust is coming over later too so maybe I can put him to work and help. I do have to kick my wife's shit out of there to make room though. Good thing she's working today and tomorrow.
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
cant wait for the pics hashlover ill snap some pics of the basement area i wanna use for flowering
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Gonna need to change the title of this thread. People look at your first shots and want to try to help. Can't blame them for not wanting to read 32 pages to see what has been done. I saw a 1500 watt setup that you would probably like. It was like 200,000 plus lumens. SWEETTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
dood im beyond gitty with that girl I just chopped her over 200 grams for the main cola woot woot. my goal since alot of things went wrong early was a OZ dried so im stoked
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Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Sweet man, sounds great. Always nice to end up with more than you though huh. Nice looking bud too. Couple of before shots. Ok so it's not all the wife's crap. Some is mine but not much. I gave her the heads up before she went to work That I might need to move her stuff. But It's ok she's used to it by now. I always have stuff lying around like tools, materials ect. In the kitchen, living room and where ever I can find a spot. She was watching tv once when I was using the coffee table for a work bench like always do. And had paused the tv when I started drilling. Told her that's what she get's for trying to watch tv in my shop. But she really is very good about, or maybe just used to it by now. I guess I trained her right huh? LOL
akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
lol sounds like a good gal
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Ya, She's the best. Cooks really good to.
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Couple quick pics. See the baking stuff? need to make sure she can get at it easy so she can make me goodies.
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akinaspeedstars1
Well-Known Member
hahaha my little container is on the kitchen counter im totally out of space upstairs thats why i gotta set up the basement
Hash Lover
Well-Known Member
Put the pipe down and get going.