These Fans Are The Real Deal !!

[JordanTheGreat]

Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround

fuck I'm dizzy

......word

 

[7th1der]

NP bro

Always stand back, away from what you are working on, and ask yourself what you can do to make it work better.

Take your worst problem and work on that first. Yours is heat.

Things aren't working right with how you put it together. So let's take a look at the math.

14" x 42.5" x 34" = around 12 cubic feet of air.

Do the math again. If your S&P is pulling 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute) then you are pulling the air right out way too fast. Damn plants are gonna die.........lol......no......maybe....hehe

So in 1 minute you're clearing out that box more than 8 times. Damn things can't get air!! rofl

Even with 50 cfm you clear the air in that box more than 4 times per minute.

So stand back and think about how you can do it. Go smoke a bowl and come back to the front of your box. Look at the box. See the box in all it's unnatural glory. Be the air filling that box............making it cool.

Now feel yourself filling up that box with yourself. CMON YOU CAN DO IT!! You are airrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, swirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrling around and arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrround

fuck I'm dizzy

I put the PC fan at the intake hole and the temps are around 83. Improvement, but I would like for them to be lower than that. Lowered the light and reflector to be somewhat parallel to the mouth of the exhaust. Hope this makes it a little cooler. *fingers crossed*

 

[JordanTheGreat]

im pretty sure that you need to break up and circulate the difftemp pockets within the tent...with such a powerful exhaust for the area, any cool intake air is making a bee line to the exhaust. take temps from two places in the cab, like right next to your hood and at the canopy. if they are the same then there aint much more you can do besides AC. i have to blow my intake around a LOT for uniform temps top to bottom

 

[lexpinllacs]

Same question here.. I have 2 x 1000W lights connected in line I was wondering if 1 - :S&P TD Series Inline Fan. Integrated Mounting Bracket Included. Usually ships within 1-2 Days. For 6 inch round duct - 293/218 cfm (high/low). 1 to 4: $127.00 - would be enoughfor both bulbs or should i buy two.

 

[specialkayme]

I don't really have much experience with cooling 100W lights, so take my advice with a grain of salt. But, I use a 150 cfm fan to cool a 400W light and it works just nicely.

If cooling a 100W light is twice as hard as a 400W light, I would recommend getting two fans instead of one. Again, I don't really have any experience with this though, so perhaps someone else with more experience would like to chime in.

 

[JordanTheGreat]

if you were just using it for the lights with no scrubber then it should work, i have it pulling thru the open end of the hood (with a 1000W hortilux)for no drag, then pushing thru a 6in canfilter at the end... works like a champ, but right now my intake air is dumbass cold maybe low to mid sixties, these fans are the truth tho

 

[CaptainCanabis]

Can i use that fan as a stand alone fan or will I have to connect those ducts in order for it to work?

The purpose of this fan is to hide the smell correct?

 

[JordanTheGreat]

well...yes...and no

 

[CaptainCanabis]

so i need the ducts then?

 

[JordanTheGreat]

depends on how you wanna use it

 

[7th1der]

Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space. If I wanted to try the set up below, what kind of tubes should I use?

Thanks in advance!




​

 

[Hotwired]

Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space. If I wanted to try the set up below, what kind of tubes should I use?

Thanks in advance!​

You give up too easily. A cooltube should be perfect for that box.

If I had that box this is what I would do:

You have the 4" fan correct? If so:

Cut two 4" holes on the top. One near each end of the box. If you cant cut the top, cut the sides near the top. Stick the S&P on one end with the exhaust side facing upwards.

Hang the cooltube in the middle of the box very tight to the ceiling. Run 4" duct from either side of the cooltube to the holes you made in the box.

Now when you turn the fan on it will suck the nice 75 - 78 degree room temps right thru the light.

IMPORTANT:
If you are using a 600 watt you will need at minimum 200 cfm to cool the light by itself. You will need at least 150 cfm for the 400 watt.

On to the the passive intake and one more exhaust. Use that pc fan to pull/push air into the box. You will need 2 more holes for this to work exactly the way you want it............UNDER 80

If you cant make the 4 holes I don't know what else to tell ya. They do sell saw blades that cut steel easily.

 

[7th1der]

You give up too easily. A cooltube should be perfect for that box.

If I had that box this is what I would do:

You have the 4" fan correct? If so:

Cut two 4" holes on the top. One near each end of the box. If you cant cut the top, cut the sides near the top. Stick the S&P on one end with the exhaust side facing upwards.

Hang the cooltube in the middle of the box very tight to the ceiling. Run 4" duct from either side of the cooltube to the holes you made in the box.

Now when you turn the fan on it will suck the nice 75 - 78 degree room temps right thru the light.

IMPORTANT:
If you are using a 600 watt you will need at minimum 200 cfm to cool the light by itself. You will need at least 150 cfm for the 400 watt.

On to the the passive intake and one more exhaust. Use that pc fan to pull/push air into the box. You will need 2 more holes for this to work exactly the way you want it............UNDER 80

If you cant make the 4 holes I don't know what else to tell ya. They do sell saw blades that cut steel easily.

I have the 5 inch fan. I do have that "DIY Cool Tube" back up plan just in case my bat wing plan didn't work. It's like 5am EST here and I been up for a couple hours fucking around with the cool tube. I did come up with a couple possibilities and I am putting them to work now. Will keep you posted. Thanks again for the help!

 

[bobharvey]

Well, I think it may be back to the drawing board for me! I planned on trouble shooting some more but it looks like I may have to save the HPS for when I get more space.

​

Hey 7th1der. I'm using a 150w HPS in a cabinet that has a total of 6 cubic feet of space.

get a hid. it'll be totally worth it.

 

[7th1der]

Hey 7th1der. I'm using a 150w HPS in a cabinet that has a total of 6 cubic feet of space.

get a hid. it'll be totally worth it.

Dude, I been trynna figure out how to cool a 400w HPS for the past 3 days. lol

 

[7th1der]

I moved a few things around and the temps are still at 83. It doesn't feel like 83 though. I think Imma get another hygrometer this week just to be sure. What do you guys think? I mounted the tube to the ceiling on hooks.

​

 

[Hotwired]

83 isn't bad at all. You said the temp outside the box is around 78 so that's the best you can do overall. But you can get it around 80 if you changed it slightly.

If it were up to me I would remove the S&P from inside the box. Make a hole on that same side right above where the S&P was. I would then place the S&P right in the hole........ right smack on top of the hole. Then connect to cooltube.

Now the fan is OUT of the box (fan makes heat bro) and cools the light by itself. Then all you need is a small fan pulling air out of the (yes you would need one more small hole) box and open up the passive intake. You will be at 80.

 

[7th1der]

83 isn't bad at all. You said the temp outside the box is around 78 so that's the best you can do overall. But you can get it around 80 if you changed it slightly.

If it were up to me I would remove the S&P from inside the box. Make a hole on that same side right above where the S&P was. I would then place the S&P right in the hole........ right smack on top of the hole. Then connect to cooltube.

Now the fan is OUT of the box (fan makes heat bro) and cools the light by itself. Then all you need is a small fan pulling air out of the (yes you would need one more small hole) box and open up the passive intake. You will be at 80.

Okay, so 83 it is! lol I am waiting for my panda film to come in and take care of the light leaks seeping through the door. I was trynna avoid putting any equipment outside the box. I'm in an apartment!

 

[thedudeknows]

Okay, so 83 it is! lol I am waiting for my panda film to come in and take care of the light leaks seeping through the door. I was trynna avoid putting any equipment outside the box. I'm in an apartment!

I'm not an expert yet, but I think I have a couple ideas for you. Can you build an extension to the box to hide/insulate the fan housing? If you put the fan on the outside you could also pull the air through it rather than push. Maybe also consider more/larger intake paths?

83 would be too hot I think for whatever medium they're planted in, so you should probably shoot for that magic <75 and if hydro, even lower (or figure out a way to cool your tank). I don't think you can suffocate the plants by drawing too much air through the box. As long as air is leaving the box, it is also entering through any crack/hole/duct it can. It's not cleared, it's exchanged.

If you have a 4" duct eventually leaving the box (~13"^2 area), I think you should have equal/larger surface area for air to enter the box, and you should then have equalized intake/exhaust pressure. Regardless of the air exchange rate, there will always be the same volume of air flowing through the box. So if you drill 17 or so 1/2" holes through which air can pass freely, you should be good.

The air is never lacking in the box unless you are able to create a vacuum in there. Have you tried to see if the door is stuck closed when the fan is on?

Again I'm not an expert but these are some things I'd try out. GL.

 

[7th1der]

I'm not an expert yet, but I think I have a couple ideas for you. Can you build an extension to the box to hide/insulate the fan housing? If you put the fan on the outside you could also pull the air through it rather than push. Maybe also consider more/larger intake paths?

83 would be too hot I think for whatever medium they're planted in, so you should probably shoot for that magic <75 and if hydro, even lower (or figure out a way to cool your tank). I don't think you can suffocate the plants by drawing too much air through the box. As long as air is leaving the box, it is also entering through any crack/hole/duct it can. It's not cleared, it's exchanged.

If you have a 4" duct eventually leaving the box (~13"^2 area), I think you should have equal/larger surface area for air to enter the box, and you should then have equalized intake/exhaust pressure. Regardless of the air exchange rate, there will always be the same volume of air flowing through the box. So if you drill 17 or so 1/2" holes through which air can pass freely, you should be good.

The air is never lacking in the box unless you are able to create a vacuum in there. Have you tried to see if the door is stuck closed when the fan is on?

Again I'm not an expert but these are some things I'd try out. GL.

Yeah, the doors were facuum'd shut with the set ups I had when the fan was on the other side of the cab. I have a hole at the top over the fan that the cords were fed through which might be taking away from some of this pressure. I have some panda film coming this week that I will use to create a wall behind the doors for light leaks , which I am sure is taking awy from some of that pressure as well. Thanks again for the input!