Bud builders

U

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haze2 said:
Hey user how do you know that its good to cut out the N earlier in a stivas life??
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Not too early, but sativas will foxtail if nitrogen is available. Even my AK-47 foxtails with 2% nitrogen and it's only 50/50 indy/sat. It's really the only good reason to flush at the end of flowering, because you want the plant to be ending it's life cycle.

Just look at all the growers and their tropical sativas that end up flowering for 6 months. They keep going because the grower is pumping it full of nitrogen, when all they have to do is cut it out for their buds to fill in.
 
MrFishy

MrFishy

Well-Known Member
The BushMaster was created to stop all upward growth and, thus, promote side branching. It works. I have used it both as a topical spray and thru soil. Dosage varies. I actually had to up the dosage for the foliage method. Here's a link, if you want more info.
BMaster 2
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
Holy shit I didnt know that and I just fed them there 2nd dose of nitrogen today since theyve been flowering. OOPS I guess that should be the end of me givin them the N rite?? And now should I just start fillin them with budding nutes??
 
stanky

stanky

Well-Known Member
i plant my clones into 3 gal bags when they are about 10 in tall, soil mixture is sunshine #2, perlite, vermaculite, and 1lb of worm castings per bag of soil. Feed them guano teas every other watering with a minimum 10 day flush, with co2 and my buds are very dense. Simple.

stanky
 
U

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haze2 said:
Holy shit I didnt know that and I just fed them there 2nd dose of nitrogen today since theyve been flowering. OOPS I guess that should be the end of me givin them the N rite?? And now should I just start fillin them with budding nutes??
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Let me put it to you like this...

I have a 9 week pheno. First 4 weeks of flower I am feeding her veg nutes high in nitrogen. Then I use the lowest nitrogen, highest phosphorous nutes for 3 weeks (or 4), then I give water only for the last week or two.
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
OK than I probly just hit rite on the dot there only 4 1/2 weeks flower so ill be fine. Im just resally not trying to flower more than 14 weeks you know.
 
U

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haze2 said:
OK than I probly just hit rite on the dot there only 4 1/2 weeks flower so ill be fine. Im just resally not trying to flower more than 14 weeks you know.
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Dude, there's a big difference between my 9 week hybrid and your 16 week haze. Your plant has to be alive for about twice as long as mine. If you cut out nitrogen now, your plant will be under-developed. Give it a few more weeks, then transition to lower doses.
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
ok so I dont want to just cut the N out immediately?? Give it lower doses until im not giving nemore?
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
Ok well Ill make sure I keep feeding Nitrogen up till about the 2nd month of flower HUH?
 
eza82

eza82

Well-Known Member
Use seafood leftovers........... and the following to produce a compost in which you can flush and derive a tea from..... These all are high in PHOS and POTTASIUM.... Which are all growth minerals for flower
(the link will give you FULL breakdown )

Pumpkin leaves, raw Phosphorus: 1095mg
Watercress, raw Phosphorus: 1091mg
Mushrooms, portabella, raw [Portabello] Phosphorus: 1000mg
Mushrooms, brown, Italian, or Crimini, raw Phosphorus: 889mg
Squash, zucchini, baby, raw Phosphorus: 886mg
Mushrooms, portabella, grilled [Portobello] Phosphorus: 857mg
Mushrooms, white, stir-fried Phosphorus: 808mg
Mushrooms, white, raw Phosphorus: 782mg
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 752mg
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 752mg
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 686mg
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 686mg
Broccoli raab, raw [Broccoli rabe, Rapini] Phosphorus: 664mg
Balsam-pear (bitter gourd), leafy tips, raw Phosphorus: 660mg
Pumpkin flowers, raw Phosphorus: 653mg
Seaweed, irishmoss, raw Phosphorus: 641mg
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 621mg
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 621mg
Alfalfa seeds, sprouted, raw Phosphorus: 609mg
Fiddlehead ferns, raw Phosphorus: 594mg
Mushrooms, white, microwaved Phosphorus: 577mg
Dock, raw Phosphorus: 573mg
Cabbage, chinese (pak-choi), raw Phosphorus: 569mg
 
eza82

eza82

Well-Known Member
This may be alittle tech... but if you micro anaylze then you should grasp..... what has taken many yrs of research and trial and error.....
MY THEORY ! THE FORMULA FOR GROWING BIG FAT STINKY FEMALES...................

The entire plant contains several hundred known elements/chemicals/hormones/vitimins etc
But the sexual expression & cannibinods of cannibis is determined by its genetic makeup, and by its metabolic temper.
Which is regulated by the male enzyme andrase and the female enzyme gynase.
Environmental & atmosphereic conditions (minerals,light, nutrients, soil and water) are keys and may suppress (through ABA) or induce the formation of the dominant enzymes and hormones, and allow the opposite sex to express itself partially (hermaphroditism) or completely as a THC bleeding beautiful lady.
Transition of female cannibis plants from the vegetative to the flowering phase is associated with a rise in Phos and cytokinin level, while that of male proceeds at a decreasing cytokinin level with an increase in Nitrogen.
The activity of cytokinins,avalablity of Gibberellin and level of PHOS are all associated with an enhancement of the female tendency/attributes. :bigjoint::bigjoint:
 
dirt clean

dirt clean

Well-Known Member
how do you guys add your bloom booster and fertilizer and waterings together? I mean do you feed fert and bloom booster one water, or fert then next time bloom booster then next time plain water?

This is going to be my first soil grow and I wanna get it all down right. I am thinking a fert water, a booster tea water, then a plain water would be the way to go.

I got Bio bizz, spt, and guano and worm castings. think that good?
 
U

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dirt clean said:
how do you guys add your bloom booster and fertilizer and waterings together? I mean do you feed fert and bloom booster one water, or fert then next time bloom booster then next time plain water?

This is going to be my first soil grow and I wanna get it all down right. I am thinking a fert water, a booster tea water, then a plain water would be the way to go.

I got Bio bizz, spt, and guano and worm castings. think that good?
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I try to fertilize with a little less, but more often. I only water if they're looking over-fertilized. As for bloom boosters, follow the label directions, but I should note that I only ever need half strength to hit my target EC.
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
I do mine with water and molasses and then when they need to water again I do water nutes molasses.... so on and soforth
 
zombie1334

zombie1334

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I usually only need to water twice a week (sometimes 3 times). Once a week I nute them, and once a week I give them SPT & Molasses.

I always add all the nutes together in a nice tea (BMO Grow, Flower, & Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10) when I nute them. No need for separate waterings for your booster & regular nutes. If I think the plant could use it, I'll also add SPT & Molasses in with my nute mixture. I usually water them with SPT & Molasses on my other watering day, to get the microbeasties working on the roots. Those are my two "regular" waterings a week.

Any other waterings that the plant needs (if the soil gets dry real fast, and they just need to be watered), I will just water them with plain chorlorine-free water.
 
haze2

haze2

Well-Known Member
Absolutely very well said Zombie. But remember Dirt Clean experiment and see what works best for you and your girls.
 
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