21-0-0 / 0-46-0 / 0-0-60 if you understand this , speak up.

[driftwoodg]

I used organic ferts in the beginning. bat guano, and fish emulsion.

now i'm interested in trying straight ferts.

anyone have experience with this.
I see it as being less costly as pre-fab ferts.

 

[weedyoo]

I used organic ferts in the beginning. bat guano, and fish emulsion.

now i'm interested in trying straight ferts.

anyone have experience with this.
I see it as being less costly as pre-fab ferts.

made that switch a long time ago.
o had alot of trial with this to get it right but now i work with teaspoons and tablespoons mixed right in to soil. i also use this
Flower-tone® 3-5-7

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A COMPLETE PLANT FOOD WITH ALL ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS

Per plant use 1/2 of a tablespoon.Dried Blood 12-0-0

Dried Blood is a by-product of meat (rendering factories). It is produced from the blood of beef and pork, which is dried and then ground into a meal. Espoma® Dried Blood is the finest dried blood available. It provides a slow, steady feeding of nitrogen, a primary nutrient which helps to promote rapid growth and deep, dark green color. Espoma® Dried Blood is an ideal supplement for all annuals and perennials. It is an all-natural material approved for organic gardening.

Sizes: Available in 4 and 18 lb. bags

Rates of Application
riple Super Phosphate 0-46-0

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An enriched source of phosphorus; helps stimulate root development and aids in fruit and flower formation; easy to apply granular form; ideal for lawns, trees, shrubs, and vegetables. (5, 20, and 50 lb. Bags)

Sizes: Available in 5 and 38 lb. bags

Directi Per Plant:
- For small plants sprinkle 1 teaspoonful around plant base. If possible work into soil.
Potash 0-0-60

An enriched source of potassium for all plants; aids in developing plant vigor and enhances disease resistance. (5 lbs. Bags)

Sizes: Available in 5 lb. bags

Directions:
Per Plant:
For small plants sprinkle ½-1 teaspoonful of Potash around base of plant making sure not to expose Sulfate of Potash to plant foliage..

 

[DownOnWax]

I use fertilizers like weedyoo but I buy them in bulk for my legal garden.

The numbers always refer to the ammount of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Pottasium

In that exact order. If I am fertilizing I always use an equal parts fert. ex: 20-20-20

 

[driftwoodg]

Great!
ok, I'm using the espoma line, and have all three n-p-k.
so what i'm getting at, is other than amending soil pre grow, which I did organically.
but dissolving the granules in h20, and then adding to the soil at specific times thru the grow for optimum results.
has anyone had experience and results with this type of application .

I've been disolving 5 tsp of 21-0-0 per gal h20- dilueted at aplication
5 tsp of 0-46-0 per gal h20 '' '' '' ''
poash is sitting on about 1/2 cup, per gall. as i'm not sure how strong to mix this one

this is done in seperate gallon jugs.
so how much potash should I be using.? say per gal. I like to mix a hot batch, and dilute, rather than not.

 

[driftwoodg]

made that switch a long time ago.
o had alot of trial with this to get it right but now i work with teaspoons and tablespoons mixed right in to soil. i also use this
Flower-tone® 3-5-7

Printer Friendly
A COMPLETE PLANT FOOD WITH ALL ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS

Per plant use 1/2 of a tablespoon.Dried Blood 12-0-0

Dried Blood is a by-product of meat (rendering factories). It is produced from the blood of beef and pork, which is dried and then ground into a meal. Espoma® Dried Blood is the finest dried blood available. It provides a slow, steady feeding of nitrogen, a primary nutrient which helps to promote rapid growth and deep, dark green color. Espoma® Dried Blood is an ideal supplement for all annuals and perennials. It is an all-natural material approved for organic gardening.

Sizes: Available in 4 and 18 lb. bags

Rates of Application
riple Super Phosphate 0-46-0

Printer Friendly

An enriched source of phosphorus; helps stimulate root development and aids in fruit and flower formation; easy to apply granular form; ideal for lawns, trees, shrubs, and vegetables. (5, 20, and 50 lb. Bags)

Sizes: Available in 5 and 38 lb. bags

Directi Per Plant:
- For small plants sprinkle 1 teaspoonful around plant base. If possible work into soil.
Potash 0-0-60

An enriched source of potassium for all plants; aids in developing plant vigor and enhances disease resistance. (5 lbs. Bags)

Sizes: Available in 5 lb. bags

Directions:
Per Plant:
For small plants sprinkle ½-1 teaspoonful of Potash around base of plant making sure not to expose Sulfate of Potash to plant foliage..

thanks for taking the time to break that down. props to you.

 

[driftwoodg]

https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/150813-wow-20-days-int-veg.html

here's the grow.
thanks.

 

[driftwoodg]

just trying to get a little more help here. I have the product.
i'm only trying to get some ratios and result feedback.

I don't enjoy chasing the goose.

 

[Uncle Ben]

just trying to get a little more help here. I have the product.
i'm only trying to get some ratios and result feedback.

I don't enjoy chasing the goose.

You only need two foods to grow pot from start to finish - a high N food for foliage production and a 1-3-2 ratio for supporting flowering, as long as the foliage remains green and healthy. If it starts to yellow and fall off from the bottom up, then switch back to the high N food or one that has a more balanced NPK ratio.

I always add the meals to my potting mixes. Plants do better when fed a constant supply of nutrients which true organics like the meals provide. The chicken feathers, eye of the newt, vitamins, and enzymes is just alot of hype.

The high sodium chloride content of Flower-Tone would be a deal killer for me much less the 5.0% sulfur value. That doesn't make a bit of sense and is way out of line.

Get familiar with these concepts: http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

UB

 

[driftwoodg]

You only need two foods to grow pot from start to finish - a high N food for foliage production and a 1-3-2 ratio for supporting flowering, as long as the foliage remains green and healthy. If it starts to yellow and fall off from the bottom up, then switch back to the high N food or one that has a more balanced NPK ratio.

I always add the meals to my potting mixes. Plants do better when fed a constant supply of nutrients which true organics like the meals provide. The chicken feathers, eye of the newt, vitamins, and enzymes is just alot of hype.

The high sodium chloride content of Flower-Tone would be a deal killer for me much less the 5.0% sulfur value. That doesn't make a bit of sense and is way out of line.

Get familiar with these concepts: http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

UB

i'm with it, and thanks for the link.

if you check out my grow, let me know if you would change anything.
the buds seem to be growing very well, I was just wondering if adding a single element such as n p or k, would have optimum results.

I flush every 2 weeks, and know that this will wash the medium of salts, and some nutes, and need to know --should i quit the nutes at this point of the grow, or just keep going until week 5.

I know, I should just kick back and let 'em grow.....
but you know , my first indoor grow and all...........

 

[driftwoodg]

so i did a test run with a little girl who was stuck living in a dixie cup.. had some nice tiny buds..
i added a test solution of potash on her, and within 3 hours she is dead.
all th lower branches fell down and cellular structure collapsed. she went flat, and fell over.
wtf?
i've read on here that the test meters for nutes are'nt that reliable, but used one anyways.
usually with a middle line (optimum level) the ph is 5.8-6.2 so I ran with it.
firkin nuked her.
i thought potassium wouldn't burn your plants?

i am seeing where the patience comes in, and one needs to let nature do her thing.
it's tough overcoming that when they're so close.

I am looking into some different hydro setups for vegetable gardening, and this is sort of a test run using lights, and regulating nutes.
obviously with hydro tables are supplied for that type of thing.
this is a blast regardless. this forum is a great help, and it's amazing sifting thru all the this and thats of it all.

i'm much more of an organic guy, but i like to experiment with supercharging plants... I'm looking for that steroid effect!!


i'd still like to here some more input on the matter.

 

[born2killspam]

C'mon.. This could be a good rudimentary fertilizer discussion thread.. Oddly thats a little lacking in the advanced forum IMO.. Its a slippery slope to a closed thread..

 

[Uncle Ben]

so i did a test run with a little girl who was stuck living in a dixie cup.. had some nice tiny buds..
i added a test solution of potash on her, and within 3 hours she is dead.
all th lower branches fell down and cellular structure collapsed. she went flat, and fell over.
wtf?
i've read on here that the test meters for nutes are'nt that reliable, but used one anyways.

In most cases it's the nut behind the wheel, not the car. Most folks do not calibrate correctly nor do they know how to get an accurate reading.

usually with a middle line (optimum level) the ph is 5.8-6.2 so I ran with it.
firkin nuked her.
i thought potassium wouldn't burn your plants?

How much and what was the source?

i am seeing where the patience comes in, and one needs to let nature do her thing.

Yep, and most have to learn the lesson the hard way. Do NOT force your plants.

i'm much more of an organic guy, but i like to experiment with supercharging plants... I'm looking for that steroid effect!!

You can not "supercharge" a plant.....you are setting yourself up for failure.

Less is more,
UB

 

[born2killspam]

I'll concur on the supercharging.. Plants usually appear immensely happy for a short period when they get over fertilized.. The happiness will inevitably be short lived.. It can take roughly a week for the plant to respond to a feeding, and because of that alot of ppl end up reapplying the ferts too soon.. Aside from that, chemical ferts aren't going to add any 'hormones' per se.. The plants make those themselves using basic compounds.. Chemicals can do a good at what they do though.. Anybody who tells you differently just doesn't know how.. You can buy certain hormone suppliments, but to see much if any benefit, you'll need to have all other aspects of your grow running smooth and efficiently..
You really don't need a pH meter.. The droplet tests are more than accurate enough, and 'can' in some cases be more trustworthy since the need for calibration is out of the picture.. I'm not dissing your meter, but if you're going to rely on it then treat it like one of your children.. On the topic of pH, yours is probably a tad too low for soil if your meter is correct.. Just out of curiousity, what does your tap water read? For soil you really don't want to get much away from 6.3-6.8.. This is step 1 to getting your feeding regimen in order.. Its pretty much impossible to control nutes when your pH is off..

 

[driftwoodg]

In most cases it's the nut behind the wheel, not the car. Most folks do not calibrate correctly nor do they know how to get an accurate reading.



How much and what was the source?

Yep, and most have to learn the lesson the hard way. Do NOT force your plants.

You can not "supercharge" a plant.....you are setting yourself up for failure.

Less is more,
UB

it was espoma, potash 0-0-60

i started with 5 tsp to a gal, and tested with a meter,
I read not to trust those meters, as they are cheaply built, but I have one so.....
I had a low reading, and added about half a cup. lol !! I was like " this should do it"


I was trying to get a reading from the meter which would indicate the amount of potash in the h20...
guess what...

it didnt work. I was only looking for a pass of fail on the trial plant and or the meter.

the test failed. not i, as it was an experiment.

as far as setting myself up for failure, I don't belive I fall into that category.
i'm just having fun with nature.

I know I can go out and buy manufactured chemical and organic nutes.,sups, and all that .... i have all the latest grow books and mags,
I just enjoy learning thru others mistakes, as well as my own trial and error.

and I also enjoy having a real topic without someone jumping in like some pre-pubescent teen trying to feel cool behind their cup of cool-aid.

 

[driftwoodg]

I'll concur on the supercharging.. Plants usually appear immensely happy for a short period when they get over fertilized.. The happiness will inevitably be short lived.. It can take roughly a week for the plant to respond to a feeding, and because of that alot of ppl end up reapplying the ferts too soon.. Aside from that, chemical ferts aren't going to add any 'hormones' per se.. The plants make those themselves using basic compounds.. Chemicals can do a good at what they do though.. Anybody who tells you differently just doesn't know how.. You can buy certain hormone suppliments, but to see much if any benefit, you'll need to have all other aspects of your grow running smooth and efficiently..
You really don't need a pH meter.. The droplet tests are more than accurate enough, and 'can' in some cases be more trustworthy since the need for calibration is out of the picture.. I'm not dissing your meter, but if you're going to rely on it then treat it like one of your children.. On the topic of pH, yours is probably a tad too low for soil if your meter is correct.. Just out of curiousity, what does your tap water read? For soil you really don't want to get much away from 6.3-6.8.. This is step 1 to getting your feeding regimen in order.. Its pretty much impossible to control nutes when your pH is off..

my tap water is 7.2
when I add the triple super phosphate, the ph is in the5.8-6.2 area.
flushed it's 7.4

my plants are happy, and healthy.

i guess i could buy some ph up/down,
just haven't had the need.

as far as feeding, the soil was amended at the beginning .
I made a feeding schedule , tho I don't always stick to it, depending on temp humidity, and the likes.

I keep my grow room within a couple of degrees whether it be day or night.( light cycle.)
and the roots stay a constant 72f


I'm just picking the minds of those that know, so that I may learn.
And I appreciate all the knowledge you bring.


so taking into consideration , every time I feed or water, I flood and drain.
this must have an effect on the amount of nutes retained in the soil.
and I'm at the time of flower, where the buds are set, and I want to give them enough potassium ( as much ) as i can.
to let them blow up.
thats where i'm at.

i'm going to get the ph drops and test the soil.... just to see..
keep it coming.

 

[driftwoodg]

wow! wtf! your a fuckin toy! and u had the small balls to go on my page and say my plants look sad? lol well lil buddy not only does no one believe u but u should just stop growing if your just in it to kill plants! go kick over your moms rose bush if it makes u feel better!

I'm only in it to kill the plants .

I think most of us are....

you might be a little simple tho boy. I understand , it happens like that sometimes, just don't blame yourself ok jr.

 

[driftwoodg]

C'mon.. This could be a good rudimentary fertilizer discussion thread.. Oddly thats a little lacking in the advanced forum IMO.. Its a slippery slope to a closed thread..

yuppers. just trying to get some info.
that why I'M here.

 

[born2killspam]

my tap water is 7.2
when I add the triple super phosphate, the ph is in the5.8-6.2 area.
flushed it's 7.4

Those are some pretty erratic numbers.. I'd pH adjust everything you dump on it to 6.5.. I've always seen healthy run-off to be only a point or two lower, or even the same as the water applied.. I do think something is off in those pics, but I can't quite peg it.. Most plants I've seen that assume that slightly droopy leaf sag when otherwise lush, and they aren't over watered soon go into micronute deficiencies and start showing definate pH issues.. Some organics and salts aren't exactly compatible, and can cause pH swing, but it might be simpler too.. Did you mention soil details??
I am kind of torn though, how are they looking since your most recent pics?

 

[weedyoo]

You only need two foods to grow pot from start to finish - a high N food for foliage production and a 1-3-2 ratio for supporting flowering, as long as the foliage remains green and healthy. If it starts to yellow and fall off from the bottom up, then switch back to the high N food or one that has a more balanced NPK ratio.

I always add the meals to my potting mixes. Plants do better when fed a constant supply of nutrients which true organics like the meals provide. The chicken feathers, eye of the newt, vitamins, and enzymes is just alot of hype.

The high sodium chloride content of Flower-Tone would be a deal killer for me much less the 5.0% sulfur value. That doesn't make a bit of sense and is way out of line.

Get familiar with these concepts: http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

UB

yes nute lock up. if you are asking me less is more.

you might want to read some of these
http://www.living-learning.com/faq/npk.htm
http://cropsoil.psu.edu/extension/facts/agfacts13.cfm

 

[born2killspam]

yes nute lock up. if you are asking me less is more.

you might want to read some of these
http://www.living-learning.com/faq/npk.htm
http://cropsoil.psu.edu/extension/facts/agfacts13.cfm

Less is more until they ask for more in no uncertain terms, then for an application or two, or maybe longer term, a little more is more.. Just want to stress the link between lock-up and pH to go along with that concept.. Only feed your plants what they ask for if they asked for it when their pH was stable/proper..
If pH was erratic/off when they start showing deficiency, get that fixed first, and see if they can find the nutes they seem to want by themselves.. Feeding to combat lock-up is a black-hole leading to nowhere good..