Light Proof Intake 'How-To' (w/PIX)

beginningbotanist420

Well-Known Member
Are you guys talking about putting tape between the tips of the fan blade and the fan shroud? That should improve the performance. Think of a Jet Ski, it has an axial fan just like a computer fan. The main differance between a stock aluminum fan blade(impeller) and a High Performance one is this clearance. The better blade is made out of stainless steel, being much stiffer it can be made "bigger", the blades will be a lot closer to the duckting around it. Thus improving vacum. If this is what your doing, I would like to know how you make out.
wtf... How did you get that from this? It doesn't say a word about on fan blades lol
 

7th1der

Well-Known Member
Its the cheapest wooden strips at home depot in the section with the door frame strips. Its like 88 cents a foot. And I just used some small nails to attach em to the wall.


How did you attach the wooden strips to the wall? and did you just get those at the hardware store?
 

Rambunctious

Well-Known Member
I'm planning to add your light trap design to the outside of my "medicine cabinet," 7th1der so thanks for the idea!

Your wood strips look to be about 1" x 1"? Considering the airflow constriction and the suggested mod to build it a little deeper, I found 2" x 2" flexible foam weatherstripping that I was thinking of using, with foam signage board as the flat piece.

I've just finished painting the sides of the cab and the under/inside of the foam board with flat black acrylic craft paint. I'm hoping latex caulking will work to adhere the foam strips and the board because the weatherstripping doesn't have any pre-attached adhesive on it - it was made to go around window-mounted air conditioners.

I can't promise to post pics but, I'll sure let you know how it works!
 

FedaykiN

Member
You could also incorporate a muffler design into it even though it'll slow the CFMs. and it is a basic muffler design already but a second protruding board would muffle sounds as well. There all ready slowed down by the shallow channel if you build the channel deeper it shouldn't matter but at least your grow box would be light and sound proof.
 

Rambunctious

Well-Known Member
The noise from my computer fans isn't a prob but, if I could find a way to muffle the exhaust/scrubber fan, that'd be nice.

Anyway, I used a carving knife to rip the foam rubber strips to 1" x 2", then attached them on their sides to the foam board so it stands 2" from the side of the cab. Also, the latex caulking worked well to secure the strips to the foam board (because they had time to set up) but, I used double-sided carpet tape to stick the whole works to the cab. Mofos are on there good now!

Thanks again for the idea 7th1der. :clap:
 

FedaykiN

Member
The noise from my computer fans isn't a prob but, if I could find a way to muffle the exhaust/scrubber fan, that'd be nice.

Anyway, I used a carving knife to rip the foam rubber strips to 1" x 2", then attached them on their sides to the foam board so it stands 2" from the side of the cab. Also, the latex caulking worked well to secure the strips to the foam board (because they had time to set up) but, I used double-sided carpet tape to stick the whole works to the cab. Mofos are on there good now!

Thanks again for the idea 7th1der. :clap:
Do you use some sort of ducting with your exhaust because if you do you could add a inline muffler. I'm not sure if you've heard of GrassCity but i have seen an excellent tutorial on how to construct one here.
 

torontoke

Well-Known Member
Hey guys
havent seen this thread in a minute
Hey i realized this is an older theead but i just stumled across it and read a post awhile back about you having trouble with a hinged opening 7th.
Did you figure it out?
I had the same problem and my quick fix was i took an old light proof curtain that i used to use in my living room and cut it in strips wide enough to cover the length of any opening and then just duct taped each side.
100% light proof
 
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