can root bound plants be cured!!!

plantsinpants

Well-Known Member
my plants are all root bound to shit, but the plants themselves look fine, i have another month before i put them out, how do i go about trimming the roots?? dont tell me im crazy i know some people do this and it works i just never done it myselfe ..
 

nickfury510

Well-Known Member
my plants are all root bound to shit, but the plants themselves look fine, i have another month before i put them out, how do i go about trimming the roots?? dont tell me im crazy i know some people do this and it works i just never done it myselfe ..
another month before they go outside? into what? as far as trimming the roots, thats a no no. what you are probably thinking of is air pruning or when a chemical is painted on the inside of a pot to keep the roots from growing out and wrapping around the outside of the rootball instead of back into the ball itself. the only thing that happens when you get rootbound is your plant is going to need water and feedings more often than a plant with room. if you are going out into the ground then the last thing you want is to start hacking at the roots. put them into a bigger pot so they can stretch, or keep em nice and watered so they dont dry up.......:leaf:
 

joeyjoejoe

Well-Known Member
i would remove them from the old pot. then proceed to break the root ball up with my hands till the bottom soil and roots were nice and loose. then put in a bigger pot with new soil at the bottom . rewater and done.:peace:
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
my plants are all root bound to shit, but the plants themselves look fine, i have another month before i put them out, how do i go about trimming the roots?? dont tell me im crazy i know some people do this and it works i just never done it myselfe ..
yes they can be.

Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.

The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:

    1. Stunted Growth.
    2. Stretching.
    3. Smaller and slower bud production.
    4. Needs watering too often.
    5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
    6. Wilting.
    Here are two ways to remove your plant:
    Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.

    For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)

Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.

If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.

Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
LUDACRIS.
 

TeaTreeOil

Well-Known Member
Why not bigger pots? Or cut the bottom off the pot and put it in a bigger pot, or one of the same size, roughly, stacked.

Fucking with the roots is just going to stunt and shock the plant. Try it on a different plant of little to no value first. Get a solid technique before you attempt this. Those are only my suggestions.

Good luck.
 

tkufoS

Well-Known Member
Why not bigger pots? Or cut the bottom off the pot and put it in a bigger pot, or one of the same size, roughly, stacked.

Fucking with the roots is just going to stunt and shock the plant. Try it on a different plant of little to no value first. Get a solid technique before you attempt this. Those are only my suggestions.

Good luck.

yea..this is an experiment..where i cut the bottom of the party cup off and , put it on top of a 1 gal water bottle filled w soil..
 

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plantsinpants

Well-Known Member
yes they can be.

Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.

The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:

    1. Stunted Growth.
    2. Stretching.
    3. Smaller and slower bud production.
    4. Needs watering too often.
    5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
    6. Wilting.
    Here are two ways to remove your plant:
    Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.

    For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)

Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.

If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.

Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
LUDACRIS.
thanks man!! i knew somebody here knew what i was lookin for !! REPS
 

Brick Top

New Member
Why not bigger pots? Or cut the bottom off the pot and put it in a bigger pot, or one of the same size, roughly, stacked.

Fucking with the roots is just going to stunt and shock the plant.

Yet once again you are so absolutely and totally wrong TreeDweller.

We own a nursery, trees and bushes and not plants or taking care of kids. It covers around 12 to 14 acres now and is a pot-in-pot system. We upcan and repot more trees and bushes in a week than most people will ever repot plants in their entire lives and if something is rootbound we will either cut a thin layer off the edge of the rootball or will slice the rootball along the sides and bottom.

Doing that causes new roots to grow outward and without doing that you greatly reduce any new outward growth and you only have a rootbound plant in a larger pot.

We do not experience shocking and stunted growth and instead see just the opposite. Pot plants are tougher and more resilient than most everything we grow at our nursery, if not far tougher and far more resilient than everything we grow at our nursery, so there is extremely little to no concern about shocking a pot plant by trimming the rootball or slicing the rootball.
 

KittenKiller

Well-Known Member
Why not bigger pots? Or cut the bottom off the pot and put it in a bigger pot, or one of the same size, roughly, stacked.

Fucking with the roots is just going to stunt and shock the plant. Try it on a different plant of little to no value first. Get a solid technique before you attempt this. Those are only my suggestions.

Good luck.
i second that as usual. dude are u a rocket scientist?
 

9inch bigbud

Well-Known Member
i would not do it to flowering plants and they would never be in a pot long enough to worry about becoming root bound. I have mother plants that have been in 5L pots for over 4 months and they are doing o.k, but could do with a repot. When i go to re pot them up i will score the root ball that wil help the roots grow from the root ball much faster and the plant will get no stress. The method is use all the time in gardening.

p.s
do not do this to plants inflower! only mother plants!< plants should be in the final pots by the time you hit flowering!

Repot pot-bound plants When spring gardening, don't forget potted-plant care. Spring is here. After months of being cooped up indoors, it&#8217;s finally time for gardeners to go dig in the dirt. But they shouldn&#8217;t pass by their pot-bound plants on the way, says a Georgia Master Gardener.
Photo: Sharon Omahen When completing your gardening chores this spring, don't forget to tend your indoor potted plants. Potted plants often become root-bound and need to be repotted. Old circular roots should be removed to encourage the growth of new feeder roots. By Sharon Omahen
University of Georgia
Spring is here. After months of being cooped up indoors, it&#8217;s finally time for gardeners to go dig in the dirt. But they shouldn&#8217;t pass by their pot-bound plants on the way, says a Georgia Master Gardener. Repotting pot bound plants is often a neglected gardening chore, says Charlie Christian, a Master Gardener in Morgan County. &#8220;Although some plants require being pot-bound in order to flower, eventually all plants outgrow their containers and become root- or pot-bound,&#8221; he said. Early spring is the perfect time to do the chore. Plants have new growth then, and the temperature is nice enough to take inside plants out for some much-needed photosynthesis. How do you know?
But how do you know if your potted plants have outgrown their living space? The first step is to remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system, he said. &#8220;Watering several hours prior will help you remove the plant more easily.&#8221; For pots that are 8 inches or less in diameter, place one hand over the top of the pot while allowing the stem of the plant to pass between your fingers. Turn the pot upside down and tap the edge of the pot against a solid surface. The root ball should easily come away from the pot. For pots that are larger than 8 inches in diameter, a bit more effort may be needed. Place the pot on its side and tap the top edge with a rubber mallet. Turn the pot a few degrees and repeat the procedure until the root ball releases easily. &#8220;Once the plant is free of the pot, check for large, old circular roots which can strangle the plant and prevent much-needed nourishment,&#8221; he said. Cut away old, make room for new
Sever and remove these old roots to allow new feeder roots to establish. Remove at least one inch of the roots and the spent old potting soil from the sides and the bottom. &#8220;This is a Bonsai proven technique which has been practiced for centuries,&#8221; said Christian, who has used the method successfully for years. &#8220;Before repotting, you can apply a root stimulator to the cut root surfaces.&#8221; Return plant to clean pot
Clean the pot thoroughly with a 10 percent bleach solution before repotting the plant. To repot, first add enough new soil mixture to the bottom of the pot to return the plant to its original depth. After the plant is replaced, fill in the sides with new potting soil. &#8220;The new soil should be well firmed as well as penetrated with a slender stick during the process to prevent air pockets,&#8221; Christian said. &#8220;Lastly, I soak my plants for 15 minutes in a solution of B-1 plant stimulator to encourage new growth.&#8221; Most plants should be repotted annually, but vigorous growing plants may need to be repotted more often, he said. Master gardeners, like Christian, are volunteers trained by experts with the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. They help county Extension agents in their areas by answering gardening questions as needed year-round.
 

Brick Top

New Member
i would not do it to flowering plants ...

When i go to re pot them up i will score the root ball that wil help the roots grow from the root ball much faster and the plant will get no stress. The method is use all the time in gardening.

p.s
do not do this to plants inflower! only mother plants!<

I would only add that plants in veg can also have their rootball scores or trimmed but I do agree to not do it to plants in flower UNLESS they are in severe trouble and it is a life or death situation for them.

At that point you may as well take a shot and roll the dice, but that is the ONLY time to do it when plants are in flower.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
I would only add that plants in veg can also have their rootball scores or trimmed but I do agree to not do it to plants in flower UNLESS they are in severe trouble and it is a life or death situation for them.

At that point you may as well take a shot and roll the dice, but that is the ONLY time to do it when plants are in flower.
what do you mean?????????.
its never to late to transplant.
i am going to transplant 6 plants in the first 2 weeks of showing flowers.
no sweat.
no stress/trimming roots.
easy done just remove the rootball and mass and transplant it carefully.
(no root trimming or damage).
;-)
 
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