How are my supplies LOOKIG??
- Thread starter brick20
- Start date
Lennard
Well-Known Member
My friend I am not knocking you however you have less "dont likes"
So heres what I dont like sorry to put that way.
Clear plastic cups: Prefer reds but even then they let the light thru even though this may not be much of an issue for the short period of time but yea.
Thos CFLs are looking red spectrumish although the box doesnt say that I read what kelvin it is... You want 5000Kelvin or "Cool White" type for veg and the Warm white or 2700K and below type spectrum for flowering.
run those lights real close to the plant as close as possible but watch for heat of course other than that good luck!
PH Fluid drops would be nice addition for $10
So heres what I dont like sorry to put that way.
Clear plastic cups: Prefer reds but even then they let the light thru even though this may not be much of an issue for the short period of time but yea.
Thos CFLs are looking red spectrumish although the box doesnt say that I read what kelvin it is... You want 5000Kelvin or "Cool White" type for veg and the Warm white or 2700K and below type spectrum for flowering.
run those lights real close to the plant as close as possible but watch for heat of course other than that good luck!
PH Fluid drops would be nice addition for $10
brick20
Well-Known Member
Thanks for da response. But hit me with that spec thing again dont understand?!?
i kinda knew that light would escape or hit da roots so i made a card board cover and
fixed the inside(where the soil is keeped with all black to trap any light.
Well in this pic i put saran warp and u cant really tell how da inside is.
Any thing else u could help with? cuz every bit of info counts!
THANKS AGAIN!!!
i kinda knew that light would escape or hit da roots so i made a card board cover and
fixed the inside(where the soil is keeped with all black to trap any light.
Well in this pic i put saran warp and u cant really tell how da inside is.
Any thing else u could help with? cuz every bit of info counts!
THANKS AGAIN!!!
bigtomatofarmer
Well-Known Member
Nice. So Im guessing you're using bagseed? Or did you order them from somewhere?
Also, I didnt notice a ph tester, but then again Im pretty high and maybe you do have one. Either way I would strongly recommend testing the ph of your water. Looking good so far man, you already have some sprouts... good job!
Also, I didnt notice a ph tester, but then again Im pretty high and maybe you do have one. Either way I would strongly recommend testing the ph of your water. Looking good so far man, you already have some sprouts... good job!
bigtomatofarmer
Well-Known Member
How were those pringles? Ive never tried that kind before... Mexican Layered dip, Super Stack... oh man I got the munchies
nice job on the setup sir... i would def recommend testing ph as well if you can even find a cheap paper or dropper style tester you'll be bettr off than nothing... you will mos def need more lighting down the road for flowering but looks like you got all ur gonna need to get sprouts and get off to a good start... keep up the good work, check out my grow... should be a link in my sig, just started tonight... GL with your grow...
bigtomatofarmer
Well-Known Member
You can get a cheap chemical test solution that is also pretty accurate.
Ph is crucial... trust me.
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brick20
Well-Known Member
Oh and that can of pringels chips i will use in substitute for a low tech, low budget PVC venting system. pics coming soon.
Im averging 4 pringel cans of chips a week. BY the time i get a hang on how growing works i'll have enuff cans 2 reach a window 4rm my closet.
STAY TUNED
Im averging 4 pringel cans of chips a week. BY the time i get a hang on how growing works i'll have enuff cans 2 reach a window 4rm my closet.
STAY TUNED
Xan2
Well-Known Member
A 2700K is also good for vegetation as long as enough light are given to the plant. 5000K coolwhite aren't as good as a DayLight 6500K but the better is a Metal Halide lamp.
brick20
Well-Known Member
HERE ARE SOME MORE PICS WITH A
WIDER VEIW. IM STILL
EXPRIMENTING(THE REASON FOR TWO
DIFFERENT SET UPS).
PIC ON TOP SHOWS DA FAN ON ONE
SET-UP 2 SEE HOW LOW I COULD DA
TEMPS. I'LL SHOW TEMPS.DA COVERD
SET-UP IS A PAPER/CARD BORED WHITE HOUSE.
HERE DA WITE HOUSE!
HERE ARE THE TEMPS OF DA WIHTE HOUSE!
HOPE DA TEMPS R OK?
ARE THEY?
WIDER VEIW. IM STILL
EXPRIMENTING(THE REASON FOR TWO
DIFFERENT SET UPS).
PIC ON TOP SHOWS DA FAN ON ONE
SET-UP 2 SEE HOW LOW I COULD DA
TEMPS. I'LL SHOW TEMPS.DA COVERD
SET-UP IS A PAPER/CARD BORED WHITE HOUSE.
HERE DA WITE HOUSE!
HERE ARE THE TEMPS OF DA WIHTE HOUSE!
HOPE DA TEMPS R OK?
ARE THEY?
Night Claptoman
Well-Known Member
I'm too going to comment about the lights - daylight color is the best for veg. 6500 kelvin. also if you are going to change them, get something stronger. i use a single 45W for cloning and early vegging (for about 12 clones) and it seems to work. the hassle of fixing up twice the emount of bulbs doesn't seem worth it.
I myself am running some cardboard grow like yours with close to no expenses but a few ideas that might help:
1. test your tap waters PH. if its around 7.2 you'll be fine somehow (yet far from ideal). if its 8.3 or something like that like my tap water get a testing kit and a ph down bottle.
2. fix a small hole in the bottom to let air in and fix up the venting on the upper part of the box. this way the hot air in the top of the box will be sucked and new cold air from below will cover its tracks. the size of the hole shuold be about the size of the vent. if you have pets or flying bugs issues fix up a mosqito net over the passive intake hole.
3. get some plastic bag or something and make a floor out it, just so that water won't be all over the place and cause rot over time.
4. I'm actually quite pro that clear plastic cups - when you see the first root you transplant. it won't take long. however heat up a pin and punch a few small holes in the bottom of the cups for drainage.
5. you can shut the lights off until you see a seed popping off the ground. they don't get the light anyway. the heat from the bulbs is drying the dirt in the cups. not that crucial but can save you some electricity and time misting. when a seed popped you turn on the light. if you wouldn't turn on the light in time the plant will strech up looking for the light. you don't want that.
What are you planning to do after they will need to be transplanted and starting to grow for real?
I myself am running some cardboard grow like yours with close to no expenses but a few ideas that might help:
1. test your tap waters PH. if its around 7.2 you'll be fine somehow (yet far from ideal). if its 8.3 or something like that like my tap water get a testing kit and a ph down bottle.
2. fix a small hole in the bottom to let air in and fix up the venting on the upper part of the box. this way the hot air in the top of the box will be sucked and new cold air from below will cover its tracks. the size of the hole shuold be about the size of the vent. if you have pets or flying bugs issues fix up a mosqito net over the passive intake hole.
3. get some plastic bag or something and make a floor out it, just so that water won't be all over the place and cause rot over time.
4. I'm actually quite pro that clear plastic cups - when you see the first root you transplant. it won't take long. however heat up a pin and punch a few small holes in the bottom of the cups for drainage.
5. you can shut the lights off until you see a seed popping off the ground. they don't get the light anyway. the heat from the bulbs is drying the dirt in the cups. not that crucial but can save you some electricity and time misting. when a seed popped you turn on the light. if you wouldn't turn on the light in time the plant will strech up looking for the light. you don't want that.
What are you planning to do after they will need to be transplanted and starting to grow for real?
MaxBud
Active Member
dude 2700k and 6500k don't make much difference... I grew 3 harvests using CFLs only and in one I used only 6500k for veg and then the 2nd go I used only 2700k and didn't see any difference really. now I just buy 2700k because they show much better results during flowering then the 6500K
doobiee
Well-Known Member
The reason you get better results using 2700k during flowering is because YOU'RE supposed to. During veg the 6500k represents the long summer days, and the 2700k represents the short autumn days(explains why you use a different color of bulb)the 2700k is a warm slightly yellowy white.
Night Claptoman
Well-Known Member
you get good results in veg probably because you have enough light.
plants will grow veg under 2700k but it is less effective than 6500k. with 6500k you will spend less energy to get the same results.
LAX Skunky BwS
Well-Known Member
u gonna have to add more lights once the spourt